Edelbrock carb fuel pressure issue
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- čas přidán 11. 11. 2016
- I was having issues at idle with my Edelbrock 1406 carburetor and the cause ended up being too much fuel pressure from my mechanical fuel pump. This pressure worked fine on my previous Holley carb, but the Edelbrock would not take it.
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I'm very impressed at how that dead end reg stops the pressure spikes at idle.
I thought that it would still jump around but a few PSI lower.
Sweet!!!
Glad you got it fixed!
Larry
Great video, thanks!
Gracias!!!! Justo tenía ese problema q me tenía loco, ahora ya le puse el regulador de presion y lo deje en 6 psi y mi carburador 1405 dejó de inundar en bajas RPM
De nada. ¡Me alegro de que esto te haya ayudado!
man, thank you for making this video. I think this just solved my idle issue. I was at 6.5-7# I can only get it to go down to about 6# but so far it seems to have helped smooth the idle. Still need to test drive. One question though. At about 2500 rpm, pressure drops quite a bit. To like 4# Is that going to be enough under load ?
i just got the Holey fpr for my edelbrock carb too. 1987 monte carlo ss
Bad thing about dead head regulators is that the create a slump in pressure when you stomp it coming off the line. When u stomp on 5 psi it doesnt leave much for a 5 psi pump to catch up to it with....
Researched your video..got it!
Yup I did the same swap and I put a gauge on it and it is * psi and black puffs of smoke when throttle hit. Spark plugs are black and sooty so I am going for the regulator thank you.
You're welcome. Glad this helped.
thanks for this video i have the same problem
What fuel pressure regulator did you purchase? Thanks Ron
Wow mine does that.. I thought that was normal fuel drip... Definitely gona do that
That's called nozzle "drip".
Nozzle drip is from one of two things:
1- fuel pressure too high (it has to be RIGHT AT the cusp of overflowing the bowl, but not super high over the bowl level for this to be the case) or, more commonly:
2- the primary circuit is being activated because the throttle plate is having to be open to get the engine idling (common on motors with large cams that are decently bigger than stock). What happens in this situation is this:
- normally, during idle, the primary butterflies are closed and you're relying on your idle circuit bypass to get fuel to the engine (the two idle air mixture screws is what they're there for, to provide air/fuel mixture to the engine at idle when the primary butterflies are closed).
- But, sometimes, when you have a larger cam or you've changed positions, or heads, or altered the vacuum of the engine in any way whatsoever (via things listed above) you end up creating an issue to where you have to have more fuel/air get to the engine than the idle circuit alone can provide, to keep the engine running at idle.
- in this case, the primary butterflies end up being opened on accident via your idle screw, because that's the only way to get the engine to idle/run at idle. What this does, is it now exposes the venturis and ordinary circuit to the vacuum from the engine (which normally only occurs when throttle is activated, and not when simply idling) and the vacuum pressure then pulls a little fuel through the nozzles at little drip or spit & sputter rates during idle (which, should only be happening when pushing the accelerator and opening the primary butterflies).
These are the two causes as to what you're seeing when seeing nozzle drip like that.
Why on earth would you think dripping fuel is normal???
My mechanical fuel pump is pushing out about 7 pds. Way, way over what the 1406 calls for. I have major issues with idling, stability. Going to be installing the same fuel regulator this weekend. This just boost my confidence that this is my issue as well.
and did it work???
@@Asphaltsquadron Don't know. Sold the rig.
how is the pressure from a original fuel pomp one a 454 bigblok
Going to try this. I replaced a Quadrajet with an Edelbrock 1906 on a 383 Stroker. Smells really rich even with the mixture screws all the way lean and the gas mileage is terrible.
and did it work?
@@Asphaltsquadron Seems to have only been part of my problem. I'm going to take a closer look at the ignition timing (...after I finish the ongoing transmission replacement).
Bill does great videos... too bad the customer service is so bad at this company...
Simple change fix it ,,,well done
Thanks, brother! Got a '71 Camaro with a 350SBC and a 1406 Edelbrock and am having similar issues. Had already figured this is what it was, but great to see it worked for you. Just waiting for a few fittings to come in and I'm all set. Did you fix the regulator to the manifold or does it "float" on the fuel hose?
You're welcome! Hope this helped. I did not attach the regulator to anything solid, it is just floating on the fuel hose, but the hose from the carb hard line is really short, so it doesn't move much at all.
I know it has been a while since you had posted this but just in case you are still responding back to comments, did your car seem to run very rich before the regulator? i am chasing a very simular issue, but mine idles great but seems to really have a lot of unburnt fuel , everything is brand new from carb to tank to pump , ect, mech pump is jumping from about 8ish to about 10-1/2 then when i shut the car down it holds pressure over night at right on the 7.5 mark. and seems to be fouling plugs fast also.
Hi VoxHdTv, I do still reply to comments. Absolutely yes, my car did run very rich at idle. Had to make a bunch of adjustments to keep it running. After installing the regulator I had to adjust again and tuning was much easier. If you are running one of the Edelbrock carbs and a mechanical fuel pump, do yourself a favor and run a regulator.
Help full video. I have that mr gasket fuel pressure gauge seems pretty good. I bought the same holley regulator in it was junk wouldn't let me adjust it at all. The mr gasket was super messed up. Your video help me decide to get another holly I think I just got a bad one. 3 trips to auto store and still cant adjust my carb as I'm getting 8psi to the carb from the pump. Is your gauge still holding up?
Yup, both gauge and regulator working exactly as they were when I posted this video.
@@pacmania9931 thanks I just installed another holley regulator and works prefect. Thanks again
My new 1403 is kinda having the same issue on my 305. No issues with my very old Holley 4160 600cfm but switched the the 500cfm Edelbrock to get better economy. Having some fuel leaking in the secondaries and a high idle. Did the regulator help any with fuel economy?
Oh yea it helped the economy - before I was dripping fuel into the intake!
I have my 1406 set at 3 psi perfect
So could this be the problem on my 396 when I rev it it’s a little rough and when I take off if I floor it it bogs a bit but when I’m going in higher rpms it’s fine I think the fuel pressure is like 7psi I’ll have to read the regulator tomorrow
When you first rev your engine, what is taking place is this:
Your carb is going from running on idle circuit, to transferring to primary circuit. This is called the "idle to primary circuit exchange".
If you're getting bogging in that exchange when revving, then it's more than likely your power piston spring(s) or metering spring(s) need to be stiffened up a size or dropped down a size (dependent on whether it's bogging because of a rich condition or lean condition during the exchange).
When you first crack the throttle, the primaries open and all vacuum falls off briefly. When that vacuum level falls off, the power piston spring pushes up the metering rods which allow more fuel to flow through to the engine, to keep up with the needs of the engines demand. But, assuming your accelerator pump is adjusted correct and there are no vacuum leaks within the carb, if your metering rods are jumping up too late, then you can end up with a brief moment where the engine is starving for fuel because the butterflies opening and the level of fuel being able to be delivered aren't matching up.
The only reasons they wouldn't match up, is because:
A) power piston pump/metering rods are opening too soon or too late (dependent on if it's a rich or lean bog) from too weak or too strong of spring(s)
B) the timing of your power piston pump isn't in spec to the opening of your primary butterflies.
C) there's a leak in the carbs gaskets, throttle shafts, or other area that's allowing too much air to slip by into the engine when opening the throttle and the air/fuel ratio is off because the level of fuel being delivered via the carb isn't factoring in the extra air that's present by sneaking by via the leak
D) a couple other causes, but much less likely than the three listed above.
What carb is this and what is the engine's specs and attributes? (Bone stock VS stock with aftermarket heads VS mild build VS higher compression VS bigger or smaller cam, etc etc etc - all change the needs of the carburetor and certain adjustments need to be made).
I don't recommend installing a fuel regulator on top of the hot engine / Manifold region. Heat will cause expansion of the regulator that will cause it to not stay consistent precise flow rate.
Thanks Horsepower House. It isn't directly on the manifold and while the location isn't ideal, it works for my setup and its been like that for 6 years now and I haven't had any issues with flow rate or pressure.
Did you test while running? Or when key was turned?
I have a mechanical fuel pump that only works when the engine is running, so that is what you see.
I dont have to use a fuel pressure regulator probally depends wat fuel pump u was using i get a steady 6psi also when changing carb or cam u should always change the fuel push rod
Nope. Should have a regulator 100% of the time no matter what pump you have.
My exact problem, stock replacement fuel pump, $100 Holley fuel regulator (new) 650 edelbrock carb (also new) and still dripping. Regulator won’t adjust enough to fix. Sometimes wonder if I need it further from the pump. I have that same gauge as you also. Don’t know whether to trust it. Mine jumps all over the place as well.
Interesting. The regulator fixed my issue and is still working as it should. I wonder if you got a bad regulator or if you have some debris in the line that got to the regulator. I have a filter after the mechanical fuel pump just before the regulator to prevent that. Did you get it fixed yet?
@@pacmania9931 yeah. Couldn’t get it to stop dripping from venturis anything above 4.5 psi. Seems to be fine this way. I have pushed it as far as I can. Flashlight down the carb just waiting for something to drip lol I’ve changed motors since 2 months ago when I commented originally but using same carb and fuel system. All is well lol
Install an electric fuel pump with the proper flow rate for your application. Problem solved.
i got 1990 k5 blazer 5.7 had it rebuild with a few up grades everything is pretty mush stock i up graded the cam to a howard cam rattler lift 225/230 duration 0.50/227/235 centerline 03 i still have the factory swirl port heads i got headers 3' pipes all the way back i up graded my torque converter to 2000 to 2400 stall and 4:10 gears i just put my engine in about a week ago it was a tbi so i converted it to carb...im having problem trying to get it to run right i put a brandnew edelbrock carb 1406 on it..i got 12-887 holley regulator set it to 6 psi i got it to run starts up good but its backfiring and popping out my exhaust ..i have a vacuum port on my regulator but did not hook it up dont no if thats the problem or not..or is the carb to small for my set up...you can smell the burning and the raw gas in park when u accelerate and give it more gas it sound good but at idling its popping and backfiring like someome popping fire crackers..tell me what you think
I haven't used that particular Holley regulator but it looks like it needs a return to the tank in order to work. Typically backfiring in the exhaust is a sign of too rich of a mixture and there are a lot of things that could cause this, including the fuel pressure being too high for the carb. Are you seeing any dripping from the venturis at idle? If so I would lower your pressure to 5, that seems to be the sweet spot for these carbs. Hope that helps!
@pacmania no, not all regulators need a Return.
Yea my 1406 will flood if it's over 3.5 lb. I replaced floats , needle. And seat both sides cleaned all passages and if I set it at anything over 3.5 lbs. Pressure it floods. BUT my Q- jet in my 66 toronado runs at full pump pressure with no flooding ! So what's the difference between the two ?
Not sure about the differences to the Q-jet but are you sure your pressure gauge is reading right? 3.5 seems too low for it to start flooding.
Q jet has small float bowls the extra pressure refills the bowls when you romo around
Are you running a mechanical pump?
Yup.
Stock pump putting out 8 PSI, no dripping. Changing pump to a street edelbrock pump . Should be a rock steady 6PSI.
Did you have to run a return line?
No, return lines not necessary for carburetors.
If you are getting vapor lock, a Return line is HIGHLY Recommended !
Is that a electric fuel pump or mechanical?
It is a mechanical fuel pump.
Where did you get the fuel regulator with a meter?
I didn't. The regulator is separate from the meter. The meter was a cheap one from the local auto parts store and it screws into a fuel line kit (like Edelbrock 8126) that has a provision for a fuel pressure gauge.
Any auto parts store - Summit Racing, Jegs, etc.
Are you running an electric choke and the gauge still fits ??
Yes, it fits just fine.
Perfect thanks.
I been having problems starting my truck since my mechanic install a fuel regulator. Do you think those are necessary? Chevy 75
@@franciscocrcabrerar9028 That depends on a lot of factors. I have never needed a regulator on a carbureted vehicle until this Edelbrock. They are necessary when they are needed to solve an issue, but they shouldn't cause an issue, unless of course there is a problem with the regulator - one more thing that can fail.
Is your pump electric it mechanical?
I have a mechanical fuel pump.
@@pacmania9931 thanks im going thru the same issue. Hopefully this fixes my flooding.
What kind of mechanical fuel pump are you using? I am having the same issue. Thanks for posting your video and I appreciate your response
I have the same carb I believe the main jets are 90 and the secondary are 98 that's what mine were out of the box had a huge problem with it running rich and feeling plugs tears my eyes worse than my dirt car went down on the metering rods and in the 80s on jets solved my problem now I have a 305 that everyone swares is a 350
I used my 55 psi in tank pump on my edelbrock carb.....im a cheap skate and didnt want to by pumps and regulators so i just put a "T" on my supply line with a valve on it just out of the tank and ran it back to the tank so it would circulate before the carb then i put a gage on the carb inlet and choked the pressure down with the valve i installed to about 9 psi....i havnt had any problems been 2 years
I have a 99 vortec engine....1406 edelbrock with jegs hi rise intake....headers....MSD Ignition through an HEI distributor...i was able to keep my 4l60e tranny but had to install switches on the shift solenoids to shift it but it works surprisingly well and safe...when i leave the house i put it in drive and take off and shift it when i desire then whenever i stop i throw all three switches back down...pretty cool really....i come out of a parkin lot lightin them up, stay on it, flip that switch and transition into a nasty second gear....lol i love it by the way its a 95 LWB pickup
This is pure operator error. You should have a regulator anyways.
Thanks for your opinion Michael! I will say this though - I ran a Holley 4160 for 15+ years on this setup (same fuel pump, same lines, just no regulator) and it never had this issue. I've also owned several other carbureted cars that the auto maker did not install a regulator and those did not have this issue either. So I am not sure that this is "pure operator error". But in the context of running an Edelbrock carb - you are right, I should have installed a regulator from day one. I just made this video to show others that this is the case.
And that's why you do not get an edelbrock....get a holley
Lol damn
LMAO
Holley is garbage
Edelbrock avs 2 is there better new design made in USA.
If you buy a new holly it’s made in China along with msd so I switch to Edelebrock