Drilling 4" Hole in concrete foundation Using Hilti DD 150-U Drill and core bit
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- I had to drill a 4" hole in my concrete foundation which was about 11" thick. I attempted to do it first by perforating around the hole using a 1/4" hammer drill bit. It did not go well :)
I went to the local tool rental place and they solved the problem.
The drill worked well and the tips I would give for its use are:
1. Keep it straight and the core centered in the bit as you drill. I kept binding up and it was because I was tilting the drill too much and binding the core against the bit.
2. You don't need much water. Too much water flow pushes the bit back so use just enough water to create a bit of a slurry as it comes out the hole.
3. Let the drill do the work. Push on it and when you hear the RPM"S drop back off a bit.
Total time to drill the hole was about 12 minutes.
brilliant thanks for taking the time to capture this. I have to run a new 25 mm water pipe into my house to upgrade the water supply and will be using the Hilti. 👍👍👍
So glad it helped! This tool makes the job easy!
I’ll be drilling a multitude of 3”-6” holes throughout this apprenticeship, glad I know what I’m getting myself into (mind you typically were in a crawl space or a sprinkler room)
Crawl space will make it more interesting!
This video is a good one to show how you may struggle if you dont keep the same angle as you start at. Also, periodically retract the drill back out to allow the slurry to thin out in intervals. When the same angle isnt kept the whole time, friction between the side of the bit and the hole can be the reason you cannot complete a hole.
How do you keep the angle?
On bigger holes, this is more of an issue but a 4" diameter hole isn't bad to do by hand without the rig as this video shows. 12 minutes I was all done. If doing holes bigger than this I would recommend renting the rig that holds the drill straight.
@@kjhnsn7296 For bigger holes you can also rent a rig that the drill mounts to and it fastens to the surface and holds everything nice and straight. For larger holes it is necessary. Looks like this. greenriverrental.com/assets/product-images/big/7585-1-0.jpg
@@kjhnsn7296 A horizontal laser line (at established center height) is helpful when freehand drilling like this. You know youre level when the laser shoots all the way down the length of your bit
I would hire Andy Dufrane to do this.
Favorite movie of most all of time!
Yeah .Andy dufrane wouldn't make so much bloody noise
Thanks for the video. I need to expand a 3" hole to 4" and this is how I'm going to do it!
Glad it helped!
That job could of been a 2-3 min job if you had the stand for the drill. I. Drilled 30 holes 6” diameter and 2 feet deep for a job. This concrete had big rebar going through it in some spots and those took about 8 min the ones with no rebar took about 2-3 min.
Probably could have been a bit faster. But, for drilling one hole this size I wouldn't waste the time setting up the stand or the additional cost of renting it. Now if you had multiple holes to drill I would have needed the stand. I got through one hole hand held but if I had to do 5 more that same day I would have had to take a nap after the second one :) So for one 4" hole for a homeowner just rent the drill and make sure you get a bit that isn't worn out. Thanks for commenting!
Dunno why I watched this, but nice job man))
Thanks!
Same 😆
Problem with this kind of situation is if you don't keep the drill completely Center level it's a tough job like when you're using a chainsaw
It took him 571 seconds to cut a hole completely through the wall
👍
Hey Brian, i have almost restored that type of core-motor, but having issue with relocating the side grip around the chuck, i tried turning the side handle counter clockwise, but still no rotation, i cant load it on the stand properly until the vacuum port is out of the way, thankx-4-good-uploasd-Sir
Would something like this work for a fieldstone foundation wall? I have to put a new sewer line out to my septic to replace the old cast iron one.
I think it will but I would ask the rental place just to confirm.
Nice! I was just about to add a vent for my dryer too. Thx for sharing your solution! :)
You are very welcome. Makes short order of the task for sure!
I needed to make a 4 inch hole for a pipe, so bought a SDS plus drill with a core bit and I was kidding myself.
This is the machine to use or you can hammer a thick wall for years. Lol
For sure! This is the tool for it!
Boa noite amigo e quando pegar no ferros tem o perigo de rodar a máquina na sua mão e machucar está procadiamentada ela trava ?
Este modelo de perfuratriz possui uma embreagem de segurança. Se prender, apenas escorregará e rangerá, então não se preocupe com este modelo fazendo isso. Outros modelos podem não ter esse recurso de segurança, portanto é sempre melhor verificar o manual do proprietário da ferramenta que você está usando. Obrigado pelo comentário!
Excellent video. Don’t you have to purchase the bit for the rental?
Thanks! My rental place rented the bit with the drill so I didn't need to buy one.
Just awesome dude. I am getting ready to do this in 10 inches of 4K psi concrete for a 4" and then a 6 inch diameter in a 4k psi floor. I need to make a right turn out the foundation.
That sounds interesting! Let me know how you make out. Thanks for the comment!
Very helpful I’m thinking of doing the same thing , but adding a 4”pvc pipe for a garage addition wich includes cutting thru the 10” foundation wall
As always SCH 40 -4" Pipe is it's inside diameter and it's OD is 4.50" so...5" bit.😀
This tool gets it done fast and easy!
Will this go through rebar?
It sure does. You'll feel it slow down a bit when it contacts the rebar. Don't force it and just let the bit do its job. It'll walk right through it.
Thanks for taking your time and sharing your experience! Could you please tell me what brand core did you used? and how does the water goes through the core? thanks a lot!
This was a Hilti core bit drill. Here is the manual on it. It has an attachment to hook a hose to it for the water.
www.hilti.com/medias/sys_master/documents/h67/hb5/9491258343454/Operating-Instruction-DD-150-U-02-Operating-Instruction-PUB-5069547-000.pdf
No hate just word of advice for everyone doing coring especially hand coring/manual coring. when starting a core always let your bit start a grove before just shoving it straight in the wall 9/10 it’s gonna give you that jagged edge he has on his entry again no hate just advice 🤷♂️
Great tip! FYI that jagged edge in my video is where I first attempted to make the hole by drilling small holes all around the circumference of the hole. Obviously, that was a bad idea! I'd still be working on it today!
Can anyone comment on whether or not this type of hole saw will cut through rebar ?
It will. When the bit hits rebar you will feel it and hear it. Just slow down and let it do the work and don't force it.
Need someone to do this too but in a crawl space in a few locations. Fun!
Crawl spaces are never fun!
I had to do the same to run a teck cable through. What do I use to fill it now that the cable is gone through?
I have used expanding foam before. You can sand it smooth to the surface if you like. You can also mix some mortar and trowel into the area from both sides of the hole.
Hydraulic cement. Buy a little pail, follow the instructions. Easy peasy.
Is there something less heavy duty to use for simply drilling a small hole for fishing tv wires through a brick fireplace where tv is mounted?
For that, you can just buy a hammer drill and masonry bit hammer rated. You can get a corded one for under $100. If you own any battery-operated tools like Ryobi for example you may be able to buy a tool only that works with the batteries you have. I actually bought a corded model just because sometimes it can take a while to drill through the brick and no worries of batteries dying then. I bought this one and for occasionally drilling holes in brick it works fine. The masonry bits won't go through rebar in concrete though. If it's just a brick fireplace this should do the job.
www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-7-Amp-Corded-1-2-in-Single-Speed-Hammer-Drill-DWE5010/204287120
Hmm, Should have shown or stated that a 4" template out of 1/2" plywood or whatever needs to be made and used to start the hole. These bits have NO pilot on them.
Hey Mike, Good idea. I had actually already drawn the circle on the wall and had attempted to use a hammer drill to drill around the circle and chip the hole out. When that didn't work I rented this so the outline was already there. If you have the circle drawn you can just tip the drill slightly and start at low rpms to get it going. It didn't run at all on me and the hole was right where I needed it. Thanks again!
Did you condense the video? I would have expected it to take an hour at least, to go though ten inches of hard concrete,.. We do this from time to time,..and I saw your video was 12 1/2 minutes long and thought: "something's fishy" if this cut through that foundation wall in 12 minutes.
Nope this is real time. It only took 12 minutes. Was a brand new bit and drill though from the rental company so that may have helped. I imagine if I rented a more worn out bit it would take a lot longer.
This foundation was poured in 1959 also so not sure if that makes a difference. Perhaps different grades of concrete for different construction purposes. Just guessing as I know very little about concrete.
I will say this house is over 60 years old and there isn't an out of plumb wall or surface in the entire house. It was really well built. My last house was built in 1920 and there wasn't ONE plumb wall or corner in it! This house is a dream to do repairs on compared to that one so if the concrete is not as strong as others nothing stronger was needed for this house. Thanks for commenting.
Sorry for commenting so, but didn’t know this drill has a safety that can adjust the pressure so it doesn’t ruin the drill !
No problem at all. Safety first!
Super helpful. End of story.
Glad it was helpful!
How did you verify there were no pipes embedded in the wall? I'm doing the exact same project (dryer vent) and am deathly afraid of hitting a water line embedded in the block wall.
Saw it before at another clients house. Copper supply line ran parallel inside a solid poured block wall. Got a leak. Wall started weeping. Contractor had to use a jackhammer and hand chisel to chip away concrete from around pipe. Very definition of a nightmare. Glad it wasn't my job.
Wow that does sound like a nightmare. I am in upstate NY so there would not be any pipes in the poured outside wall above grade as they would freeze in the winter so this is nothing I have seen in my lifetime. I am sure if there are pipes in your wall there would be an area they exit so you could look for that. I have a well that is actually in the garage so there is no water main coming through the wall either. Maybe someone else with experience in this can chime in. Thanks!
@@BriansSpace
Thanks for such a prompt reply. 👍
Any reason for not using the stand? I like turning the handle do all the work. Might take a bit longer to set up the stand but sitting there turning the handle is much easier on your back
They told me at the rental for what I was doing I could do it by hand. If you have access to the stand go fo it! It would make the job completely effortless!
Wicked awesome. Good job.
Thanks!
How big of a diameter can you get for that? I want to put a wood stove in the basement and the pipes are 6-8 inches
I just did a 2 inch diameter by 4 inch deep hole for iron railings on concrete steps today using a Hilti DD 150-U. It worked well, but at 8 inch diameter, your going to need to rent out a more expensive concrete drill and the core bits for 8 inch diameter are $300+ like this one ( czcams.com/video/Tn0BGzloLC8/video.html ). I'm sure it'll work, but its pricey to make a hole in concrete.
This model here will do up to 6 3/8". If you need to go to 8" it's no problem you just need to rent a different drill. This one here handles bits up to 8". www.hilti.com/c/CLS_POWER_TOOLS_7124/CLS_DIAMOND_CORING_MACHINE_SUB_7124/CLS_DIAMOND_CORING_MACHINE_7124/r5063
They had core bits over at my rental place up to 4'! Pretty impressive.
How does the drill not torque out of place?
It has a safety clutch that slipped if it bound up. Easier than running a hand drill.
And a sharp bit
No ear protection?
It wasn't loud at all. In the video, you can hear dogs barking and other noises over the sound of the drill. If you were doing this 8 hours a day ear protection would be a good idea. But for just 12 minutes of drilling no problem. Like mowing your lawn. If you mowed all day for a living ear protection should be worn. But to mow your own lawn once a week probably you'll be ok. Thanks for commenting!
Great video nice job! Was this on hammer function with the core bit or just drill?
No hammer function just drill. Hammer function is not used when core drilling as it will ruin the bit.
Looking at potentially having to do this to vent a pellet stove.
It's pretty easy with the correct tool. Just take your time.
Pshh, who needs ear protection? Not him!
It's not really that loud and I was drilling one hole that took 12 minutes. If you listen at the 4:30 mark you can actually hear an airplane over the drill noise. Perhaps if you were drilling for 8 hours straight every day then hearing protection would be a good idea. Thanks for commenting!
Brian Needels I was just goofing. Did any water shoot inside when you broke through the cement? Thanks for the video by the way, helps a lot with researching a new shower project.
@@wesb.9672 just a little. You don't need that much water. Too much pressure and it pushes the bit back out.
@@BriansSpace I believe he means too much WATER pressure pushes the drill bit away from the hole surface.
If you get tinnitus from no ear protection who you going to blame?
Lucky you had water to keep the dust down.
Concrete pourers add asbestos to the concrete (old school) so if you drill dry you are risking silicosis, asbestosis and mesothelioma.
Since that dust gets on your clothes you risk exposing whoever cleans your clothes to the above same issues.
Best to wear a cheap disposable bunny suit so you can leave the potentially dangerous dust in the trash.
www.discountsafetygear.com/dgp122-microporous-hooded-and-booted-coverall.html?id=&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcH3BRApEiwAxjdPTc2zzc5IaF-SGqK-VnLc4-yP68N-SbIoU01M7MEfo3CI_nNOGil-VRoCHZ0QAvD_BwE
Did all that drilling wearout the drill bit?
Was it an industrial diamond tipped drill bit?
Did they recommend any drilling fluid?
Ahhhhhhhh, dont let go of the handle 😱. One of those babies catch…………
For sure. THis one had a slip clutch in it so it wouldn't bind but should keep both hands on it at all times!
Thats a mans job nice work.
It was pretty easy! The right tools for the job make things simple!
Holy God this guy was 0.0025 seconds from a broken wrist and jaw at least two or three times on this video! Dont ever let go of the side handle, the drill can hit anything inside even just a pebble in the concrete and twist faster than you can cognitively understand who hit you with a bat and why you are on the ground. Also helps if you set ot to rotary AND hammer function.
You do not want to use Hammer functionality when core drilling. Also, this drill has a safety clutch so when it binds it just slips. You can hear it several times in the video. Maybe a different older drill might perform as you stated but this one simply slipped and ratcheted if it bound up. It also had an indicator light for newbies like me that was green when the proper pressure was applied. All in all pretty safe. Here is a Manual on the drill:
www.hilti.com/medias/sys_master/documents/h67/hb5/9491258343454/Operating-Instruction-DD-150-U-02-Operating-Instruction-PUB-5069547-000.pdf
@@BriansSpace well that is certainly a relief!! I'd hate to see someone pick up a drill without that clutch and get hurt. Maybe a subtitle indicating that would save some folks from that. A green light you say? Hey that is definitely newer than ones I have used at work and we do use the hammer setting when taking cores as well as regular drilling.
@@danielbuckner2167 a hammer setting on a core drill? definitely not...
@@eliskjartansson2907 Read above
my god, can you hear anything anymore?
It's not loud at all. If running one every day all day hearing protection is always advised but this was quite than a lawnmower.
Never, Ever... let go of the leveraged handle, you could have had a broken wrist at any second
This one had a slip clutch in it and if it bound the slightest it just ratcheted. Still, you are correct. Best to not depend on that slip clutch for sure. Thanks!
No rebar. Some one needs to go buy s lottery ticket
For sure!
This guy not only is using it on very dangerous way , he was also ruining his expensive hilti , a shame !
Always hold steady and pull out the core from time to time , never force the drill in , and never let the side handle go!,!
Thanks for commenting but on this model it had a slip clutch and was impossible to bind up. Not damaging the drill in any way shape or form. You are correct in not letting go of the side handle as that is always good safety. Again though this model with the slip clutch is very safe. The ratcheting you will hear from time to time is my getting the drill slightly off level in the hole and binding slightly and is the slip clutch doing its job. This drill also had a gauge on it to apply the correct pressure and I was using that the entire time to maintain the correct pressure. It would go from green to red if too much pressure was applied and I kept it in the green the entire 12 minutes it took to drill the hole. Other models may not have this but this one did.
Been quicker to set up a rig
Well, it only took me 12 minutes so the most time I would have saved was...well...12 minutes :) If doing multiple or bigger holes you are correct. I would have rented the rig for it in those cases but not really needed for one 4" hole in 12" of concrete. Thanks for commenting!
He ran this about as well as his camera stayed in focus. Don't push that hard and make sure you're plumb and square
For sure! Don't know what was up with the camera that day! As for running it, the first time I ever even saw one let alone ran one! 12 minutes later I had a nice round hole in 12" of concrete. 30 minutes later I had my dryer vent hooked up. The point is if you have ever run a drill before you can run this and do it yourself! Just rent it and get er done! Of course, your form may be off a bit like mine, but most people won't be filming themselves so who will know lol! Thanks for commenting.
@@BriansSpace hey sorry about that. No excuse for me to judge anyone posting a video that is meant to help someone else
It doesnt look or sound like you even had the hammer drill on. We use Hilti 70's an blast through these walls in under 2 minutes.
Isn't he supposed to have the hammer off for core drilling?
This isn't a combi-hammer, it is a core drill. I doesn't have a hammer function.
If these things would have hammer drill option you would just destroy the segments on the drill bit in no time!
U don't hammer with a core drill 😂. And I promise Hilti doesn't have a sds Max drill rate for the size hole in a twist drill.
No hammer drill when core drilling. Not the correct procedure according to the rental place.
Vor mehreren 1000 Jahren haben die Ägypter Kernbohrungen in mehreren Metern Länge hergestellt durch die Pyramide! Erklärt mir hier mal jemand mit, was für einem HILTI vor System die Ägypter das geschafft haben😊
What's the kick like on this when you hit rebar?
I didn't hit any rebar on this project but this unit had a slip clutch built in so I suspect nothing would have happened except the unit would slip if hitting rebar and the pressure applied was too great. You would then bck off on the pressure and proceed more slowly.