It helps if you poke holes in the wax paper to allow excess resin out..also use a layer of paper towel on each side to soak up the resin. Now your micarta is lighter.
Well done! If you want to let the fabric color shine through more, use ultra clear resin. You can find it at most hobby stores. Really makes for beautiful handles
That's a nice set of scales. If you'd like to make perfectly even sets of knife scales right out of the press you might consider the Fiber Press (Pro Press-2). Instead of using clamps that's hard keeping even during the pressing process, the Fiber Press uses 3/8" bolts secured to 1/4" steel base plates.
If you do this often enough, I would heavily recommend you buying an inexpensive vacuum bag and pump setup. You will get alot more even pressure in a bag and not have to worry about culls and clamps. Either way nice looking knife!
Looks great. I was wondering what denim micarta would look like. I have so many jeans that are about 10 sizes too big for me now and I finally thought of a use for them. :P
staple the 4 corners of your fabric to the wood after you final wrap the wax paper -- hammer the staples flush into the wood. and viola - no slippage whatsoever.
Cool. You could make damn near anything with this stuff. I wonder if it's possible to do like, a canoe. A full sized one that you could use in the water. You think?
You have a good voice for doing videos. Very informative. I wish you would've shown a few more pictures/angles of the finished knife! Looked really amazing. Have you tried using other materials in your micarta making? Ie: Burlap, scouring pads, etc?
Nice video... really liked it! Thanks for the clear info. I'm looking to make a turning chisel handle, but may run out of working time to create a finished blank around 16"x 2.5"x2.5". Just wondering if you've ever tried laminating cured chunks. That is, I might want to make two micarta slabs 1.25" thick and then laminate them after, since the time may run out to make it in one go. What do you think?
The resin itself is not making any sort of dust what so ever so there is no need for using dust respirator. That's what it its. That thingy you straping on your head is not a gas mask it's a dust filter. Why would you expect it to stop resin fumes go into your lungs? It's not gonna work. What's more interresting is that resin fumes are basicaly harmless, it's the resin dust what gets you.
Love it. I never gave a thought about this. Very nice. You know....If you had a mold with an irregular base surface, normal flat sanding of your final product would force different colors to rise to the same level. I have to try this. Thanks for posting it. Thumbs up. If you have the time, visit my channel and check out my latest knife handle project. JP out
animalmother556x45 would of been easier to just give a strait answer. Instead of tell them what to do. F$cking CZcams. Why everyone has to be an ass is beyond me. Why even bother if your gonna be an ass.
Canna Occult Well, nobody had answered him....so I helped him out. Perhaps my comment came off as being a little more shitty than I intended. It was partially a joke and partially "dude, it's in the video that you allegedly just watched"
You don't have to use fiberglass epoxy. The fiberglass dust is nasty stuff. Micarta is a trademark product. A more accurate description would be "phenolic". Micarta as well as other smaller laminate epoxy makers don't use fiberglass.
This is such a messy process!! Why not try this instead?: Acquire a pan or tray of appropriate depth. First, protect the back-boards in zippered freezer bags and protect your pan or tray with a plastic grocery bag or garbage bag. (Fasten the bag to the inside corners of your tray with 2 sided tape) Pour your resin solution into the pan or tray then, in the order you'd like, simply place the entire "sandwich" of materials and back-boards, one piece at a time, into the pan of resin. It works best if your material and back boards are cut to a size that nestles neatly into the tray. Also, a 2" tab at diagonal corners of each material layer can be pinned with a safety pin to help prevent slipping while clamping. Next, "G" clamp the tray and the sandwich together at the corners. Use little blocks of scrap wood as spacers to prevent immersing your G clamps in the resin. As it becomes tighter, begin using the lug nut method while measuring the distance of each G clamp to ensure evenness across your material. If done this way, the whole project stays mess-free because the excess resin remains contained until it is channeled off one corner of the tray by propping it on edge so it drips into a thro-away container. With this method, your tray (pan) and your back-boards are withdrawn clean, un-messed and ready to be used again! I was age 14 during the first half of 1967, and Ziploc didn't exist yet. That's when I first tried this. I didn't protect my back-boards so they had to be cut off and therefore destroyed. My back-boards from then on were wrapped in Saran wrap, which worked fine each time. I never made anything but one paper weight and several beverege coasters from my micarta pieces, and I have only made a handful of them; fewer than a dozen, I think. The resin I used was not fiber glass, but wood resin epoxy. It was in liquid form and did not produce costic fumes. The weird part of my story is that at age 14, I was naive enough to believe that I had invented some thing. I didn't learn til 40 years later that it had already existed and that it was called micarta. Now I'm anxious to do it again using fiberglass resin .
Paul Feromino Cariaga how are you reusing the back boards if your immersing the "whole sandwich" into the resin? And you say immerse the whole sandwich, but then you say one at a time. Can't picture what your trying to describe. If you immerse the whole sandwich, the whole sandwich will be covered in resin. Are you making a sandwich with the boards already pre wrapped before you add the whole sandwich? I think I may understand what your getting at. Basically just do all the work in a pre lined dish with pre wrapped boards for compression.
Canna Occult yes instead of spreading the resin on each layer, one at a time, immerse your back board into a tray of resin (wrapped in plastic first) then immerse all your scraps, one at a time, then the top board. Both boards and your deep tray are both rapped in plastic before commencing.
Appreciate the video and how chill you are brother. Thank you for taking the time to make this vid
Thanks friend. Best video on this that I have watched by far. Just good and easy to follow. Nothing extraneous. Well done. Thanks.
Very nice tutorial. Thank you. Someday when I have the tools/space necessary I would love to do this.
You have an excellent camera presence. Keep at it
If wax paper sticks try using parchmin paper. I remember my hash oil would always stick to wax paper but absolutely clean on parchment ! Haha .
It helps if you poke holes in the wax paper to allow excess resin out..also use a layer of paper towel on each side to soak up the resin. Now your micarta is lighter.
Very well done. Not over stated, nice work.
If you use parchment paper instead of waxed paper you will find that parchment does not stick to the resin at all.
very clear tutorial! i have tried making micarta the way you explained here and it came out great! keep up the good work!
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and tips.
Nice knife. The handle is awsome. Thank you for sharing.
Very well done tutorial. Easy to follow and informative. Thank you for posting.
i like the way you talk. good tutorial mate
Great video, well explained and thorough. No music to which is nice in an instructional video.
Well done! If you want to let the fabric color shine through more, use ultra clear resin. You can find it at most hobby stores. Really makes for beautiful handles
That's a nice set of scales. If you'd like to make perfectly even sets of knife scales right out of the press you might consider the Fiber Press (Pro Press-2). Instead of using clamps that's hard keeping even during the pressing process, the Fiber Press uses 3/8" bolts secured to 1/4" steel base plates.
Nice job! Great video man. Much appreciated and very enjoyable.
Nice work man.. Thanks for taking the time to show everyone
Best tutorial I've seen yet, Thanks for taking the time to make it!
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
Great video, and great end result!
Nice video. . I learned a lot from your video. thank you
Excellent. Thanks for sharing.
That's pretty slick..I have to try this and thanks. I been looking for a way to go for some straight razor scales.
If you do this often enough, I would heavily recommend you buying an inexpensive vacuum bag and pump setup. You will get alot more even pressure in a bag and not have to worry about culls and clamps. Either way nice looking knife!
That was actually really good. Also nice little knife.
Thanks for sharing🙂
I learned something new today, thanks. Well done sir.
Looks great. I was wondering what denim micarta would look like. I have so many jeans that are about 10 sizes too big for me now and I finally thought of a use for them. :P
Very, very clean and tidy workplace :-)
great video, can't wait to give this a try.
Nice tutorial, thank you!
staple the 4 corners of your fabric to the wood after you final wrap the wax paper -- hammer the staples flush into the wood.
and viola - no slippage whatsoever.
Beautiful, thanks for sharing
So thats what micarta is nice video
great video really helped me thankyou
Great Video Brother
A very pretty knife
Cool. You could make damn near anything with this stuff. I wonder if it's possible to do like, a canoe. A full sized one that you could use in the water. You think?
You have a good voice for doing videos. Very informative. I wish you would've shown a few more pictures/angles of the finished knife! Looked really amazing. Have you tried using other materials in your micarta making? Ie: Burlap, scouring pads, etc?
Great to see that stodoys has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
makes awesome looking handles
Good video thanks Brother
Pretty cool.!
Nice tutorial, thx, i go make one!
Useful thanks 👍🏽
Awesome video and thank you my friend. By the way knife looks very nice indeed. Do you make knives to sell or just for fun....?
you did good, don't give up
?
What you used was polyester resin. With polyester resin you can adjust the amount of hardener to get the desired work time.
Nice video... really liked it! Thanks for the clear info. I'm looking to make a turning chisel handle, but may run out of working time to create a finished blank around 16"x 2.5"x2.5". Just wondering if you've ever tried laminating cured chunks. That is, I might want to make two micarta slabs 1.25" thick and then laminate them after, since the time may run out to make it in one go. What do you think?
dude wicked cool thanks
nice! thank you sir.
nice! on a side note: what are those bracelets? Byz and some angled version of E4?
Nice knife! How many layers did you use?
Sweet #micarta #diy video post! Been watching #ForgedInFire and been wondering how I could make my own Micarta.
Why
Why I want to make my own micarta? Because it's and interesting and durable material! :)
very cool
Thenx is beautiful
Great video! Does the resin dry clear or brown?
Where did you get that hat?
does it have to be fiberglass resin or can i use super glue or two component glue ?
Thanks, good info, I was wondering why do you have to clamp it, is to get air bubbles out ?
In your professional opinion....could you make a bigger block with this method and turn it in a lathe
Do you have a certain way for cutting your material? I'm really bad a cutting so most of my pieces are bigger or smaller than my template
Hello. can You tell me, how to make micarta without micro-bubbles?
Thanks for answers
what type of mask was that... was it a dust specific mask or chemical or multi purpose?
The resin itself is not making any sort of dust what so ever so there is no need for using dust respirator. That's what it its. That thingy you straping on your head is not a gas mask it's a dust filter. Why would you expect it to stop resin fumes go into your lungs? It's not gonna work. What's more interresting is that resin fumes are basicaly harmless, it's the resin dust what gets you.
Love it. I never gave a thought about this. Very nice. You know....If you had a mold with an irregular base surface, normal flat sanding of your final product would force different colors to rise to the same level. I have to try this. Thanks for posting it. Thumbs up. If you have the time, visit my channel and check out my latest knife handle project. JP out
What brand Band saw is that?
you look identical to tyson furys old boxing training (ben davison)
Do you use fiberglass resin or epoxy?
Bruce Smith Go to about :30 in the video....use your ears
animalmother556x45 would of been easier to just give a strait answer. Instead of tell them what to do. F$cking CZcams. Why everyone has to be an ass is beyond me. Why even bother if your gonna be an ass.
Canna Occult Well, nobody had answered him....so I helped him out.
Perhaps my comment came off as being a little more shitty than I intended. It was partially a joke and partially "dude, it's in the video that you allegedly just watched"
Thank you
He used Bondo...which is poly I believe.
6:46 Spiderco ATR2??
will epoxy works?
You don't have to use fiberglass epoxy. The fiberglass dust is nasty stuff. Micarta is a trademark product. A more accurate description would be "phenolic". Micarta as well as other smaller laminate epoxy makers don't use fiberglass.
Trevor fiberglass and epoxy are two diff things.
This is such a messy process!! Why not try this instead?:
Acquire a pan or tray of appropriate depth.
First, protect the back-boards in zippered freezer bags and protect your pan or tray with a plastic grocery bag or garbage bag. (Fasten the bag to the inside corners of your tray with 2 sided tape)
Pour your resin solution into the pan or tray then, in the order you'd like, simply place the entire "sandwich" of materials and back-boards, one piece at a time, into the pan of resin. It works best if your material and back boards are cut to a size that nestles neatly into the tray. Also, a 2" tab at diagonal corners of each material layer can be pinned with a safety pin to help prevent slipping while clamping.
Next, "G" clamp the tray and the sandwich together at the corners. Use little blocks of scrap wood as spacers to prevent immersing your G clamps in the resin. As it becomes tighter, begin using the lug nut method while measuring the distance of each G clamp to ensure evenness across your material.
If done this way, the whole project stays mess-free because the excess resin remains contained until it is channeled off one corner of the tray by propping it on edge so it drips into a thro-away container.
With this method, your tray (pan) and your back-boards are withdrawn clean, un-messed and ready to be used again!
I was age 14 during the first half of 1967, and Ziploc didn't exist yet. That's when I first tried this. I didn't protect my back-boards so they had to be cut off and therefore destroyed. My back-boards from then on were wrapped in Saran wrap, which worked fine each time.
I never made anything but one paper weight and several beverege coasters from my micarta pieces, and I have only made a handful of them; fewer than a dozen, I think.
The resin I used was not fiber glass, but wood resin epoxy. It was in liquid form and did not produce costic fumes. The weird part of my story is that at age 14, I was naive enough to believe that I had invented some thing. I didn't learn til 40 years later that it had already existed and that it was called micarta.
Now I'm anxious to do it again using fiberglass resin .
Paul Feromino Cariaga how are you reusing the back boards if your immersing the "whole sandwich" into the resin?
And you say immerse the whole sandwich, but then you say one at a time. Can't picture what your trying to describe.
If you immerse the whole sandwich, the whole sandwich will be covered in resin.
Are you making a sandwich with the boards already pre wrapped before you add the whole sandwich?
I think I may understand what your getting at.
Basically just do all the work in a pre lined dish with pre wrapped boards for compression.
Canna Occult
yes instead of spreading the resin on each layer, one at a time, immerse your back board into a tray of resin (wrapped in plastic first) then immerse all your scraps, one at a time, then the top board.
Both boards and your deep tray are both rapped in plastic before commencing.
Paul Feromino Cariaga Llc
toxic water bottle too?
Too-tor-iul
Bachelite
Dead channel ? :-(
Hey bloke why don't you use a paint brush for your resin make a better job of it