As an armorer with the 101st at Ft Campbell back in 1983 I had a similar experience with an M1911 .45 caliber pistol. With the safety engaged, a hard pull of the trigger would release the safety and drop the hammer. I wrote it up and turned it over to the upper level maintenance unit as I was not authorized to perform that level of repair. I returned several days later to pick up my “repaired pistol”. Prior to leaving their shop I performed a function check. The pistol failed again! Not intermittently, but every time! I informed the guy at the desk that they had not repaired the pistol. He took it back, checked it out, conferred with his coworkers, and returned the pistol to me and informed me that it met specifications! He said that it only had to withstand a certain amount of trigger pull before firing I was astonished at their level of ignorance. They were insisting that it was safe. As I was transporting firearms across the base I was armed with a loaded pistol. I offered to remove my loaded magazine and place it in the pistol that they claimed was safe and test it to see if they were correct. I might have also suggested that it would be pointing in their direction during my test. They declined my offer, took the pistol back, and decided to research the matter further. I was subsequently informed that the pistol frame itself was out of spec and it was taken out of service. As President Reagan had said during that time, “Trust but Verify”.
Another great video where I find something new to think about regarding installation of blaster parts. Greasing the spring end and the detent to inhibit falling out could have saved me some time and more than a bit of profanity on my build. 10/10 video.
@@EasyMoneySG You and me both. Of course Chad's a pro and makes everything look easy. Tried doing this in my lap with my cheap ass Wheeler hammer punch but beat the crap out of a couple brass punches (because I was lazy and didn't want to dig for my punch set). Ended up swearing a bunch, dug out my Obsidian Arms toolkit, Klev Zion (sp?) receiver extension/buffer tube vice, got a bigger hammer and an old steel punch my brother had in the garage. Bingo. Top tips: Don't use the Wheeler hammer or brass punches, use a steel punch and 10oz-ish hammer (brother handed me a ball peen). Tape your lower (I'm a rookie so I suck and don't want to beat my lower to hell). USE GREASE! (also a roll pin starter punch to start and finish and steel punch to drive in). FCD states roll pins make for "robust" fitment...absolutely no joke. Not like I'm plan on removing them that will be an interesting challenge (coming from the Survivor Systems "paddle shifters" secured with Torx screws)
I now own this safety thanks to this vid. Was on the fence on the cost vs another brand. Install was a breeze with this vid. Having the right tools and learning how to use them makes life easier and efficient. Smooth actuation with this piece. Plenty of lever to manipulate compared to other kits too.
And if you don't do this kind of thing often it is advisable to put some masking tape on the receiver to prevent damage to the receiver in case your punch slips.
I really wish you could do more videos. I love your content!!! seems like most your videos are from two and three years ago. It’ll be awesome to have a couple videos each month come out your knowledge and expertise is awesome on AR’s!
I’ve used a single #7 1/2 bird shot in the selector detent spring hole of the pistol grip to manage the mushy selector switch issue without stretching the spring. Not sure if that’s the best method but it has worked for me in the past.
Thank you for making this video. Just followed it to install the ASF-50Q. It’s an absolute game-changing upgrade. Very positive, ergonomic safety selector. Huge improvement.
Thank you very much for this amazing and smart tutorial. I have followed your instructions thoroughly. Now, my new FCD ASF is safe and sound. Also, I just installed my EMR-A on my SOLGW/FCD Ambi lower. Have to keep my gear all in the family!
Every product I've purchased from FCD has been excellent. Imo they are one of the very best companies out there for AR-15 components. Very well thought out and most importantly, reliable. Just like FCD, I care about function not how pretty it is (not that their products don't look great). I have their bolt release rearward biased, standard length ambi mag release, q lever ambi safety, and enhanced buffer retainer. and all work flawlessly in my LMT defender lower.
very good video i just bought the 50 degree safety, mag release and ambi bolt catch from FCD a couple things get one of those headband lights and you can see in the pistol grip better and i think that washer is a star washer not a lock washer. Thanks !
@@muddyhotdog4103 radian talon doesn't use screws. But even safetys that do use screws, all you gotta do is put a dab of loctite, witness mark and you're g2g. Personally, the safteys I have that use screws have never backed out.
Great demo of that failed safety-trigger combo. I have heard of things like that happening but have never seen it (limited by my personal handful-ish of lowers =) ). Thanks!
I got one a few month back. I also have the Radian and Battle Arms. The SOLGW safety is hands down the highest quality safety I've ever had. The q lever makes it super easy to throw into full auto without breaking your firing grip. Love that thing.
Glad yours worked good. These are the mushiest, slowest safety selectors that I've ever tried. Not to mention I broke 3 punches trying to get the roll pins back out of these. Straight garbage. I'd steer clear of them.
Only thing I see is the roll pin being annoying if you have a cassette style 1 piece trigger that requires the safety to be removed to install/uninstall the trigger for normal swapping out or more importantly you have a malfunction of the trigger.
I like FCD usually but something about the unnecessary use of a set of roll pins to secure a safety when there's about a thousand safeties out there that don't use one, is like... Why? Why make it harder to swap out the safety drum? Radians are easier to install and just as secure, and i don't have to have a hammer and punch on hand if something fails.
Is there a preferred OAL for the safety detent (ejector) spring for best safety selector operation? ...There is a go and no-go gauge or spec for everything. Many of those springs are badly out of spec with cut ends, not ground ends. Weird ejector and weird safety selector operation are the symptoms.
Yes, there is a proper measurement for the spring but unless the selector, detent, lower receiver, and grip all fall within proper range that measurement does not hold much value in my experience.
I have used electrical tape and taped the screw to the screwdriver bit for the grip screw to get it started. You can use any kind, it just falls off while tightening.
Where'd you get your roll pin holders/punches? I've been looking at offerings from a few manufacturers but all have mixed reviews on hole depth and material hardness. I'm a buy once cry once kind of guy and I know you only use high quality tools.
I would like to send you a screw starter. I carried one in my tool belt for close to 30 years. It is a screw driver with the blade split down the middle. As you slide a sleeve down the shaft, the 2 halves of the blade move in opposite directions thereby gripping the screw head.
I had a safety detent stuck in the channel. I cleared it out, but it was so loose it was locking my trigger up. Is this a normal machining error for new lowers?
Thanks for the info, great video. Do you feel that a short throw safety is less safe than a standard 90 degree safety? With the magpul example in video do you think that this is due to interface or tolerances plus the shorter throw causing a different safety barrel interface?
I was thinking the same, at least you save yourself of pounding one with a hammer already installed. Probably it does not need that much force, but still...
@@aholegunner No please don't ever do that, replace the parts with issues and compare to in spec parts and or have a armorer/gunsmith take care of it or verify that it's correct with a guarantee on the verification. It's ok to not have safeties on many guns these days pistols at least but if it has a safety it needs to be 101% reliable no exceptions.
I have an lmt lower I'm currently putting together and my safety is extremely loose. On further examination I dont think my detent protrudes up as far as it should and the rim of the detent bottoms out on a little shelf in the detent channel. Eny ideas of what I could do to fix this? Is there an enhanced (longer) detent I'm not aware about?
Sometimes there is just a small burr at the detent hole opening that will prevent the detent from popping up far enough. I use handheld reamers to fix this issue.
Instructor Chad, First off I want to thank you for your quality content. I want to ask you what your thoughts are on Anderson Lowers? Your advice is the first advice I take now. Thank you for your report on Anti-Walk Pins as well I was uneducated and using them before I found your piece on them.
In my experience, Anderson puts out more problem Lower Receivers than they should. Does that mean all Anderson Lowers are junk or out of spec? Not at all, but your chances of having a problems are high in my opinion.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle I agree and appreciate your opinion on them. I live close to Aero Precision HQ and I like their innovations and practices, I've never went with more than their enhanced buffer though. I'm sure you're getting your brain picked constantly (love the logo btw) an I apologize in advance for doing it anyways. Is aero precise in your opinion? Also is there any chance you might be offering online courses in the future or do you already? I am hungry for knowledge ever since all male basic training at Fort Knox where I fell for an old M16A2. I'll try not to overpick your brain and just either take an online course with you or shake your hand one of these days. A lot of guys are on CZcams giving tutorials to ar builder's and never have I seen one of em approach it like an experienced modern auto technician would a vehicle with a system and all. You've got a good thing going on here brother, God Bless you and yours and keep up this awesome work as I already know you will!
@@sciji3118 I bought an Anderson stripped upper and let me just tell you this... It was out of spec in almost every way possible. I mean you basically had to hammer the takedown and pivot pins in. The Dust Cover could be installed but would not close. There was literally about a 1mm piece of overhanging metal blocking Dust cover from shutting. I still own it as a paper weight and I must say, avoid Anderson if possible.
I have a Sharp's Np3 XPBCG in a 10.5 build. It's overgassed so I increased buffer weight and seems better but I've noticed recently scratches or gouges on the rear corners of some of the bolt lugs and I've attempted to research it but to no avail. It's possible the gouges are from before and I hadn't noticed yet. I'd love to fix this issue I just need the knowledge of what to do.
Sounds like the upper may be flexing excessively when it's firing, or the barrel extension isn't timed right and its allowing the bolt lugs to chatter on the forward and rearward movement of the bolt as the bolt enters and exits the barrel extension. It's all guesswork without having the weapon in front of me.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle the barrel ext. is visibly 1-3 thousandths bottom to the right. Weird thing is a plain Jane milspec bolt from psa feels smoother when I thumb it in and out and received no damage similar to the Sharp's.
You're right I need to have an autopsy done before it dies. Or just to take a course an get smarter, Do you have any affiliation with S.D.I. or have an opinion on them?
From looking at the packaging in this video, it looks as if there is two separate safeties/(part numbers), one is a 90°, and the other one FCD offers is the 45°. Some manufacturers you have a choice on how you install the safety, as to whether it operates on the 90° angle, or 45° angle.
THE ASF comes in a 90 and a 50 degree. No 45 though. They have a few options on the website 90 and 50 standards. 90 and 50 Q variant. then full auto options if you are fancy and have something with select-fire capability.
As an armorer with the 101st at Ft Campbell back in 1983 I had a similar experience with an M1911 .45 caliber pistol.
With the safety engaged, a hard pull of the trigger would release the safety and drop the hammer.
I wrote it up and turned it over to the upper level maintenance unit as I was not authorized to perform that level of repair.
I returned several days later to pick up my “repaired pistol”. Prior to leaving their shop I performed a function check.
The pistol failed again! Not intermittently, but every time!
I informed the guy at the desk that they had not repaired the pistol. He took it back, checked it out, conferred with his coworkers, and returned the pistol to me and informed me that it met specifications!
He said that it only had to withstand a certain amount of trigger pull before firing
I was astonished at their level of ignorance. They were insisting that it was safe.
As I was transporting firearms across the base I was armed with a loaded pistol. I offered to remove my loaded magazine and place it in the pistol that they claimed was safe and test it to see if they were correct.
I might have also suggested that it would be pointing in their direction during my test.
They declined my offer, took the pistol back, and decided to research the matter further.
I was subsequently informed that the pistol frame itself was out of spec and it was taken out of service.
As President Reagan had said during that time, “Trust but Verify”.
What an incredible display of laziness
Lol made them think about it with that test idea 😂
I learn more new things in one video on this channel, than other channels combined
Just bought that safety and couldn't have hoped for a better install video. Excellent...Thank you
Great tips about the grease holding the small parts!
Another great video where I find something new to think about regarding installation of blaster parts. Greasing the spring end and the detent to inhibit falling out could have saved me some time and more than a bit of profanity on my build. 10/10 video.
I was just telling my son he’s a lefty that he needs to fix the safety on his and boom here’s a video on how to do it Thank you
That tip on using the grease to help with the pins is so clutch.
i wish i would have watched this video 3 hours ago. i just had a heck of a time getting a forward assist roll pin in.
@@EasyMoneySG You and me both. Of course Chad's a pro and makes everything look easy. Tried doing this in my lap with my cheap ass Wheeler hammer punch but beat the crap out of a couple brass punches (because I was lazy and didn't want to dig for my punch set). Ended up swearing a bunch, dug out my Obsidian Arms toolkit, Klev Zion (sp?) receiver extension/buffer tube vice, got a bigger hammer and an old steel punch my brother had in the garage. Bingo.
Top tips: Don't use the Wheeler hammer or brass punches, use a steel punch and 10oz-ish hammer (brother handed me a ball peen). Tape your lower (I'm a rookie so I suck and don't want to beat my lower to hell). USE GREASE! (also a roll pin starter punch to start and finish and steel punch to drive in).
FCD states roll pins make for "robust" fitment...absolutely no joke. Not like I'm plan on removing them that will be an interesting challenge (coming from the Survivor Systems "paddle shifters" secured with Torx screws)
Used to hold captured rubber gaskets as a mechanic with grease all the time. Old school cheat
I now own this safety thanks to this vid. Was on the fence on the cost vs another brand. Install was a breeze with this vid. Having the right tools and learning how to use them makes life easier and efficient. Smooth actuation with this piece. Plenty of lever to manipulate compared to other kits too.
And if you don't do this kind of thing often it is advisable to put some masking tape on the receiver to prevent damage to the receiver in case your punch slips.
Replace "in case" with "when". Good thing I did but still dinged it slightly, but it's a rifle, not a safe queen.
I really wish you could do more videos. I love your content!!! seems like most your videos are from two and three years ago. It’ll be awesome to have a couple videos each month come out your knowledge and expertise is awesome on AR’s!
I’ve used a single #7 1/2 bird shot in the selector detent spring hole of the pistol grip to manage the mushy selector switch issue without stretching the spring. Not sure if that’s the best method but it has worked for me in the past.
Steel shot I’m guessing.
Thank you for making this video. Just followed it to install the ASF-50Q. It’s an absolute game-changing upgrade. Very positive, ergonomic safety selector. Huge improvement.
Thank you very much for this amazing and smart tutorial. I have followed your instructions thoroughly. Now, my new FCD ASF is safe and sound. Also, I just installed my EMR-A on my SOLGW/FCD Ambi lower. Have to keep my gear all in the family!
You are really great at including the little helpful details- greatly appreciated!
Roger Wang designs nice stuff. Fan of his 6315 flash hider.
Thank you so much for this video,,, that is an extremely annoying install process for a simple safety,, go Radian 👍
Every product I've purchased from FCD has been excellent. Imo they are one of the very best companies out there for AR-15 components. Very well thought out and most importantly, reliable. Just like FCD, I care about function not how pretty it is (not that their products don't look great). I have their bolt release rearward biased, standard length ambi mag release, q lever ambi safety, and enhanced buffer retainer. and all work flawlessly in my LMT defender lower.
14:50 Wow! I would love to see a physical on that trigger and safety interface.
I think that safety selector is for the FN SCAR not for an AR15...
very good video i just bought the 50 degree safety, mag release and ambi bolt catch from FCD a couple things get one of those headband lights and you can see in the pistol grip better and i think that washer is a star washer not a lock washer. Thanks !
I usually really like forward controls parts but a roll pin for the safety? Not a fan of that at all. The radian talon is much better IMO.
A roll pin is better than the little screws used by some companies. That being said the Radian Talon is a better design
I've got both. FCD is way nicer. The roll pins are much more secure than the Radian design. The paddles wiggle some on Radian
It's going to be tougher tho. No screws to fall out
@@muddyhotdog4103 radian talon doesn't use screws. But even safetys that do use screws, all you gotta do is put a dab of loctite, witness mark and you're g2g. Personally, the safteys I have that use screws have never backed out.
Just based on materials and attachment the FCD/SOLGW is more bombproof. Which I believe was their goal of making a gtw selector.
Great demo of that failed safety-trigger combo. I have heard of things like that happening but have never seen it (limited by my personal handful-ish of lowers =) ). Thanks!
Just installed the M16 version! Finally I can have a full auto safety that works like my radians. So glad they did this.
Good video and advice regarding the safety check after install. Thanks
I can feel how smooth that selector is just from hearing it lol
Sounds like it feels badass?
I got one a few month back. I also have the Radian and Battle Arms. The SOLGW safety is hands down the highest quality safety I've ever had. The q lever makes it super easy to throw into full auto without breaking your firing grip. Love that thing.
I live in Houston, and FCD is in Midlothian. I always get next day USPS.
Glad yours worked good. These are the mushiest, slowest safety selectors that I've ever tried. Not to mention I broke 3 punches trying to get the roll pins back out of these. Straight garbage. I'd steer clear of them.
Only thing I see is the roll pin being annoying if you have a cassette style 1 piece trigger that requires the safety to be removed to install/uninstall the trigger for normal swapping out or more importantly you have a malfunction of the trigger.
I like FCD usually but something about the unnecessary use of a set of roll pins to secure a safety when there's about a thousand safeties out there that don't use one, is like... Why? Why make it harder to swap out the safety drum? Radians are easier to install and just as secure, and i don't have to have a hammer and punch on hand if something fails.
I have certainly encountered different thread profiles even though the spec was the same.
This is an awesome video. The entire video is very informative and has an eye opening / scary portion. Great job. Thank.you.
Is there a preferred OAL for the safety detent (ejector) spring for best safety selector operation?
...There is a go and no-go gauge or spec for everything.
Many of those springs are badly out of spec with cut ends, not ground ends. Weird ejector and weird safety selector operation are the symptoms.
Yes, there is a proper measurement for the spring but unless the selector, detent, lower receiver, and grip all fall within proper range that measurement does not hold much value in my experience.
Thanks. You are the greatest.
I was glad to see you struggle a bit with the pistol grip screw, I hate those things
I have used electrical tape and taped the screw to the screwdriver bit for the grip screw to get it started. You can use any kind, it just falls off while tightening.
Best channel!
Get rid of that slotted grip screw and replace with an Allen screw so you can use a dot of grease to hold it on the Allen wrench...!!!
You need a spring depth gauge for inside the grip :)
Good to see such a skilled smith struggle with the flathead grip screw like me lol
I've never seen that. I guess I will have to go check all of my triggers on safe with a little bit of force.
Great info man for real nice job.
Where'd you get your roll pin holders/punches? I've been looking at offerings from a few manufacturers but all have mixed reviews on hole depth and material hardness. I'm a buy once cry once kind of guy and I know you only use high quality tools.
How do these compare to badger c1?
I would like to send you a screw starter. I carried one in my tool belt for close to 30 years.
It is a screw driver with the blade split down the middle. As you slide a sleeve down the shaft, the 2 halves of the blade move in opposite directions thereby gripping the screw head.
What size of roll pin punch and holder are you using.
You can use a headlight when looking into dark areas of ar15 to view and its handsfree..
Is there a reason that both safety switches can't be the same length? Not a shorter one on the RH side for lefties?
I was going to ask if they will fit either side. Asking for a left-handed friend...
I had a safety detent stuck in the channel. I cleared it out, but it was so loose it was locking my trigger up. Is this a normal machining error for new lowers?
Can I install a FA safety selector on a semi auto AR15. Will it be illegal to do so.
Thanks for the info, great video. Do you feel that a short throw safety is less safe than a standard 90 degree safety? With the magpul example in video do you think that this is due to interface or tolerances plus the shorter throw causing a different safety barrel interface?
45 degree all the way😎💯
I need to check my Noveski/Magpul selectors! I have one of those on everything. 😳
As always...educational
Great vid, thx for doing these. Who’s threaded containers do you use for the aeroshell and M1 grease?
I’m curious of the same
he replied the answer to your question on another comment. "Those are from a Swiss K31 Cleaning Kit.
" :)
Could you put a small dab of grease on the head of the screw to get it up in the grip. Same concept as the detents and spring?
Why wouldn't you install one of the levers first, then the other once the assembly is in place?
I was thinking the same, at least you save yourself of pounding one with a hammer already installed. Probably it does not need that much force, but still...
What are your recommendations for a really tight/ hard to switch safety?
Cut off a coil or 2 from the safety detent spring.
@@aholegunner No please don't ever do that, replace the parts with issues and compare to in spec parts and or have a armorer/gunsmith take care of it or verify that it's correct with a guarantee on the verification. It's ok to not have safeties on many guns these days pistols at least but if it has a safety it needs to be 101% reliable no exceptions.
Would white lithium grease be ok to use to hold the springs/detente?
can you recommend a brand and size of tools needed for the roll pin on these levers?
Looks like the Sig ambi safety for 516 & 716
I have an lmt lower I'm currently putting together and my safety is extremely loose. On further examination I dont think my detent protrudes up as far as it should and the rim of the detent bottoms out on a little shelf in the detent channel. Eny ideas of what I could do to fix this? Is there an enhanced (longer) detent I'm not aware about?
Sometimes there is just a small burr at the detent hole opening that will prevent the detent from popping up far enough. I use handheld reamers to fix this issue.
Instructor Chad, First off I want to thank you for your quality content. I want to ask you what your thoughts are on Anderson Lowers? Your advice is the first advice I take now. Thank you for your report on Anti-Walk Pins as well I was uneducated and using them before I found your piece on them.
In my experience, Anderson puts out more problem Lower Receivers than they should.
Does that mean all Anderson Lowers are junk or out of spec? Not at all, but your chances of having a problems are high in my opinion.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle I agree and appreciate your opinion on them. I live close to Aero Precision HQ and I like their innovations and practices, I've never went with more than their enhanced buffer though. I'm sure you're getting your brain picked constantly (love the logo btw) an I apologize in advance for doing it anyways. Is aero precise in your opinion? Also is there any chance you might be offering online courses in the future or do you already? I am hungry for knowledge ever since all male basic training at Fort Knox where I fell for an old M16A2. I'll try not to overpick your brain and just either take an online course with you or shake your hand one of these days. A lot of guys are on CZcams giving tutorials to ar builder's and never have I seen one of em approach it like an experienced modern auto technician would a vehicle with a system and all. You've got a good thing going on here brother, God Bless you and yours and keep up this awesome work as I already know you will!
@@sciji3118 I bought an Anderson stripped upper and let me just tell you this... It was out of spec in almost every way possible. I mean you basically had to hammer the takedown and pivot pins in. The Dust Cover could be installed but would not close. There was literally about a 1mm piece of overhanging metal blocking Dust cover from shutting. I still own it as a paper weight and I must say, avoid Anderson if possible.
Just did this. His parts are awesome
Are you using 2 standard(long) or 1 standard (long) and 1 short??
Do u consider Anderson lower parts kit to be good or bad
Have you ever tried cobra clean degreaser to remove carbon?
I have a Sharp's Np3 XPBCG in a 10.5 build. It's overgassed so I increased buffer weight and seems better but I've noticed recently scratches or gouges on the rear corners of some of the bolt lugs and I've attempted to research it but to no avail. It's possible the gouges are from before and I hadn't noticed yet. I'd love to fix this issue I just need the knowledge of what to do.
Sounds like the upper may be flexing excessively when it's firing, or the barrel extension isn't timed right and its allowing the bolt lugs to chatter on the forward and rearward movement of the bolt as the bolt enters and exits the barrel extension.
It's all guesswork without having the weapon in front of me.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle the barrel ext. is visibly 1-3 thousandths bottom to the right. Weird thing is a plain Jane milspec bolt from psa feels smoother when I thumb it in and out and received no damage similar to the Sharp's.
You're right I need to have an autopsy done before it dies. Or just to take a course an get smarter, Do you have any affiliation with S.D.I. or have an opinion on them?
Where can I get those patches and stickers?
awesome
VERY nice, I just wish it had a 45-degree option on the barrel.
They have that. It's a sperate option.
www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/ASF-50Q-semi-auto-50-degrees-q-levers_p_229.html
No way would I have this part with Rollins as opposed to bolts.
Does this have the option for 45° or is only 90
From looking at the packaging in this video, it looks as if there is two separate safeties/(part numbers), one is a 90°, and the other one FCD offers is the 45°. Some manufacturers you have a choice on how you install the safety, as to whether it operates on the 90° angle, or 45° angle.
THE ASF comes in a 90 and a 50 degree. No 45 though. They have a few options on the website 90 and 50 standards. 90 and 50 Q variant. then full auto options if you are fancy and have something with select-fire capability.
When will the BCG be back in stock?
Rodger told me via Facebook 3 weeks ago 4-6 weeks. So 1 - 3 weeks. Get on the waiting list and hope you click buy fast enough (Im in the same boat!)
Ugh, I hate those slotted screws.
me putting my roll pins in with a pair of pliers
Chad who makes your oilers.
The little trash cans with the brushes?
Those are from a Swiss K31 Cleaning Kit.
Instructor Chad cool
🦆
No thanks to the roll pins I hate roll pins all most as much as my neighbor..
Eh.... you got grease everywhere....
You
Real Gs press their pins into place with a vise