Yeah...I'm in New Zealand. I'll keep filling my 661 and other saws with a 40:1 mix of 95 octane and Mobil 1 racing full synthetic 2 stroke at 40:1..my local dealer has a "graveyard" of big Stihls and Huskies loggers have used 50:1 in and have died..the bigger saws simply need more oil. Just my 2c. And proper tuning, fresh fuel and a spotless air filter are paramount to engine protection in my eyes..been slingin a saw for over 40 years now. Never have I used 50:1. Thanks for the video sir!
I think it depends on the application and the saw. Smaller equipment just doesn’t get as hot, hence the need for a clean burning oil with a low flash point.
I've never believed in 50:1 or even 40:1. I've Always run a high quality oil, added detergent(Seafoam) and ran at 32:1. Never had a piece of equipment blow up on me. I use Lucas semi synthetic oil FD class. My trimmers and saws running 10 years as strong as the day I bought them. No cylinder or piston damage.
Thanks, it's more important (to me) to share what I've learned in the past and help us all learn more going forward. There's more wives tales in chainsaw land than at the sewing circle...... I'm trying to keep everything as fact based as possible.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to do these tests, I’m aware how much effort goes into the whole process! Is it possible that the stihl hp ultra is cleaning off the carbon from the piston and cylinder head, releasing it and that is what is causing the scoring? Thanks again. New subscriber
I like 40:1 mix. I’ve used motorcycle 2 cycle oils many times. Maxima 927 and Bel Ray MC1 are favorites. I love these tests. It looks like Ultra did its job but nothing extra. I’d like to see a little more from an oil. I like the orange bottle better.
HP Ultra is great oil for Stihl products @ 50:1,,,,, I have rebuilt no less than 3 High RPM 2 stroke motorcycle engines and for breakin I used Ultra HP @ 25:1 , initial start up , 2 - 3 heat cycles then full rip WFO ,,, zero issues
I have been running a 25-year test of Stihl oil at 50:1. I maintain a 40-acre estate with an inventory of 12 Stihl tools, the oldest of which (a brush cutter, 026 chain saw and pole pruner) date to 1996. The highest hours, far in excess of 1,000, are on the brush cutter. Only the carburetor and throttle handle have been replaced. No tool has ever required piston/cylinder/crank/etc. work. Only Stihl oil has ever been used.
@@richardflagg3084 Yup, only that one. I buy it two gallons at a time. The only problem is that my equipment is outlasting the replacement parts supply, for what few I need.
Richard, thanks for all your hard work in giving us test based results concerning 2 cycle lubrication. My local Stihl dealer from whom I bought a MS261 pro saw told me to get away from Stihl HP Ultra and switch to Shindaiwa/Echo Red Armor. He’s also an Echo dealer. He was adamant about it and said they had seen some issues with HP Ultra run equipment. I did as he instructed and can tell you my saw and 14 1/2 year old Stihl fs80 string trimmer are running beautifully and are well lubricated. By the way, I run my equipment at 50:1 with 90 grade non ethanol fuel. My $0.02. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Glad your dealer is honest about it. The Orange bottle at 40:1 is impressive on a long term basis from what I've witnessed. I'll say it again, Ultra is not a bad oil, there's just other high quality oils out there that are more forgiving if you don't run your equipment "properly".
I run Sthil Hp in a variety of engines. In my modern Nikasil engines I run 42.5:1 and decarbon every now and then. In older steel sleeve engines I need to run 32:1 and decarbon a bit more often.
The amount of oil in the bottom end is what I see, when I run synthetic oil at 50/1. There is a light coating of boundary oil on piston and bearings. If carb is adjusted rich, you will see more, but you are giving up power. Keep up testing, you are showing people what goes into keeping equipment running properly. I said this before ( you have opened a can of worms) I do like your determination. 🤙
Great job Richard you are really putting in the work on this test. I remember you taking saw apart with your Schaffer oil it was a lot better and puddled in bottom of crankcase.
Started using Echo oil 1977 had zero problems with that Echo trimmer replaced it with Echo straight shaft 1990’s it was still running and I still have and use the straight shaft had to replace the primer bulb & fuel lines . I’ll stick with 40 to one mix . As a STIHL dealership now I’ve seen a lot of piston & cylinder scoring! I’ll stick with 40to one and Echo oil even in my STIHL saws
When I pulled the cylinder off my ms 460 last year after running it with Echo Red Armor. The piston and cylinder were slobbering with red oil. I was very pleased how that FD oil was lubricating the 460. What I did not like about Red Armor was it did not stabilize in my saws. I left RA in my MS 251 and it had turned bad after seven months. They say it is good for two years. Horse lucky.. the 251 bout took my arm off when I tried to crank it. I poured it out and replaced it with Stihl Moto Mix and cranked it right up. RA gas actually turned brown in my Poulan S25 DA. I poured it out and refilled it with PBG 50:1 and cranked it right up.
I think the shelf life claims are a little lofty. That's pretty extreme the fuel turned brown. There are some things to take into account. Once you open a can of fuel and take some out the clock starts running faster. The less air in the can/tank the slower it "ages". Conversely half a tank or can will age pretty quick under the less than ideal conditions. Sunoco had some good info on their website regarding this topic. I haven't been able to find that page recently. Your saw has a tank vent on it and allows it to hold pressure and release pressure. Temp swings from hot to cold will allow the tank to "breathe". Or simply running it on a warm day and storing it over night in a cool garage/shed the tank vent will allow a small amount of air and humidity in as it cools.
@@richardflagg3084 I use Union 76 premium - non ethanol with whatever oil I am using at the time. I measure everything, 77 ml of two cycle oil in exactly one gallon of gas. I do not remember exactly what I had in the gallon of Red Armor fuel. I made it last October is all I remember. When I tried to crank my ms 251 it took my arm off. I thought it might have been the oil but I now think the gas went bad with it. I did not put any stabilizer in the gas because Echo says it will stabilize the gas for two years. I was not sure what happened until I tried to crank my Poulan S25 DA in July. I must have pulled it over 100 times with not even a pop. I looked at the gas and it looked red but when I poured it out it was a brown color. I washed out the tank with some fresh Echo 50:1 PBG and then filled it up with PBG. It popped on the second pull and cranked up in two more pulls. It did not tell me what had happened to the gas but it did confirm what I had thought. On the last tank of PBG that I made I added one ounce of Startron to it. I like the smell it gives the exhaust, too.
Problem is, you have no control how people mix oil abd use their saw. Anything can happen. Ive been using ultra hp for 25 years on my 310 and its been a gem. Not everyday use but weekly. Great product
I'll keep mixing my API-TC 2T 32:1, I've been running FRESH pump fuel in this mix for decades and the only issues I've had are oil-can diaphragms and rock hard fuel lines.
Well I like all the comments , lots of great opinions , seems everyone has some kind of formula that works for them so I thought I'd share my observations. I years ago ran mostly Pennzoil 2stroke at about 40-1 , bought it in 1 gallon bottle and it was cheep , never any trouble until about 15 yrs ago on a 105 degree day I had a saw lock up on me ( by the way this Homelite saw still runs strong ) . After this I changed to Stihl oil and over the years as tools got weak to the point they didn't want to run (stuck rings and the like) I would hang it up in the barn and buy new . Three yrs ago I started having trouble with gas going bad after 3-4 weeks so I started using AVgas (100 LL - $5.60 gal) and went to steel gas cans , everything ran great and no more stale gas . This time last year I bought a new Echo saw & started using Red Armor oil - then I got a wild hair - revive some old tools . I now have no retired tools ,all saws weedwackers etc are running better with each tank of fuel - took 7 to 12 tanks of fuel for them to come back to life (oldest weedwacker stihl 27 yrs- stopped using 9yrs ago) . Red Armor & avgas YEA
😂 I've never farted popcorn! In our snowmobile race engines I want the combustion chamber dry and bottom end a little wet. But a chain saw engine is put more stress than a snowmobile
Been using Amsoil Saber Professional oil for over the past 10 years 100/1 mix no problems of any kind. 125 Super. 075 076 056 magnum super 150 xl925 655 550 394xp etc etc.
I will stick with running 32:1 in my saws. Looking at your piston made me think of a song from a Kiwi singer, the song title "there's a fraction too much friction". The honest truth is 50:1 is fine in a water cooled outboard but for my money no good for something air cooled.
I set the clutch on my DeWalt drill to 7 when using it to put screws back in or taking them out. At 7 it is not going to strip out anything. I do hand start them.
I like an oil that doesn’t all completely burn. I wanna see some wetness in the muffler can. I could have it all wrong but seems like the ultra is designed to completely burn
That's what I get with Husqy xp oil at 40:1. It kinda scares me and the only way that I can describe it is "wet exhaust gases". Never took the muffler out, but I suspect that the damn thing is lubed up into heaven.
Do you have any M Tronic saws you could do the test with? That way it gets run more on the lean side of things and really test the film strength. Keep up the good work! I also really enjoy the porting videos! 🤟🏻
I just saw this responding to another comment. I just finished a 661. I'll resume the oil tests here in the next few days (in between repairs and stuff).
I've switched to 33:1 and all issues related to overheating have gone away, my milling saw or other saws of other people I know that did the switch too. Including in ppl that like to fidget with their carb (and don't really know that well what they're doing sadly), have stopped scoring cylinders, even if their H is set a tad lean and the saw is ran hard. Not going back to 50:1 even on m-tronic or a proper tune, the lower end bearings don't really like high gas-oil ratios on the long run.
@@shannonwhitaker9630 That’s not a real thing no more. Modern synthetic oils dont carbon up anything, they either burn cleanly or get spit out the muffler. Its low quality gas and a rich tune that carbon stuff up. Or cheapo mineral oil.
@@em4703 i have the same personal experience, used to run 91 pumpgas with HP ultra but always thought 50:1 was not enough oil, switched to mixing redline 2 stroke smokeless at 32:1 which flashes at about 103C, when i tuned my 036 i thought something was wrong with the saw because despite 32:1 the only carbon to be found on the plugs were on the groundstrap compared to the relatively carbon covered plugs it used to have.
Im not saying the HP ultra DID NOT cause that scroring, but i work on Stihl power equipment every day that have run the ultra their entire life and they are fine. Stihl has done extensive testing on their products and one test on an older saw does not prove much. If anything, id blame that measuring cup. That fuel should be clear if its non ethanol. It soaked up that plastic resin. Anyways, i still enjoyed the video and thanks for the input.
I used to think amsoil was snake oil. But I have a friend who’s run it 100:1 in an ultralight for hundreds of hours. Another guys tested to destruction at like 2 or 300:1 for hours and amsoil won.
@@twintwo1429 believe what you wish. One guy had pictures videos and explanations of the whole process and many of us saw it. The other guy I know well, and he’s no BSer.
First time and last I used AMS under the one in it Yamaha dirt bike that locked up going about 60 haha. Is it funny how some people have good luck and others not with the same thing.
I think the scratches on the piston were a result of operator error. Either it was set lean or ran lean due to low fuel in the tank. I don’t think the brand of oil had anything to do with it.
Very interesting from several viewpoints Richard. I have voiced my oppinion about much of this since your first oil video several weeks ago. I'll reserve detail oriented remarks for later, except to reiterate that for proper bearing lubrication/longevity, oil needs to be puddled in the CC IMO. Probably about a teaspoon full. So whatever oil/gas ratio necessary for a given oil to produce that result is what the ratio should be for that oil IMHO. At least that would be my goal.. One size does not fit all for different oils. You are among a handful of Chanel operators that go out of their way for research and educational purposes. I hope to learn from this series.. Cudos to you for your effort and time along with running a business. . I hope all your viewers appreciate the effort you make as do I. Speaking of viewers, you are adding them at a fast pace of late. Congrats. You don't have Belray H1R. I'll send a liter if you supply an address.
I like to see enough oil to just wet the crank wheels after it's all run back down after sitting, but I've been mixing API-TC 32:1 because that's what we've always done (even with bean oil) and it just works for me.
Cutting with that chain dull throws another variable in this testing does it not. I've seen saws destroyed with someone using a dull chain. However I do like what you're doing with your testing of the 50 to one just think you need less variables to narrow it down to what the mix does
I don't know man. My dad has a small farm he uses a handheld Stihl leaf blower way way more than it was ever intended to be used. It blows off equipment all the time, cleans gutters, blows leaves, you name it. He uses Stihl Ultra and that blower has never missed a beat. I'm in no way trying to discredit your knowledge just saying stating his experience. The Stihl dealer can't believe that blower still runs strong. Has to be 8-9 years old.
I had a chuckle when you said the Stihl dealer said "can't believe it's still runs strong". On a more serious note some of the handheld blowers had bearing issues which had an official recall/warranty issue. Pull the muffler and have a peek at the piston skirt just for kicks.
Here's my logic (for what it's worth): A chainsaw sump is not made to run wet. A wet sump after inspection may do little to improve wear resistance. A light film may be all that is required to do the job. Too much oil puts more hydrocarbons out into the environment , Times change. Like I said, for what it's worth.
I have been running the Motul 800 off road 2T hard with a MS461 pulling a 25” full comp bar with zero issues of heating even in this Texas heat. I running close to 45:1, give or take a little based on how accurate I can with those gas cans I use. The Motul is at it’s best when you take the plug off and there is a nice dry brown color coating on the plug. Looking at the piston through the plug with a camera shows absolutely no scarring and no buildup on the top of the piston. That is my go to oil for all my saws. I don’t know about the trimmers and blowers, the Stihl Ultra works just fine, but you need to use you head a little since these are not in the same league as a profession saw.
Perhaps rather *MORE* oil if you must use this Gunge? As in closer to 28 to 1? Enough that it smokes continuously? (That way you know it’s got *OIL* in the mix, to my thinking.)
What ratio would you recommend for a stihl 500i? Would it be sensitive seeing as it's fuel injected.?? Currently running 50:1 on aspen 4 mixed with hp super. Also would running 40:1 not cause the piston to be dirtier?
I have no personal experience with Super so I can't say with any real world experience. it's an FD rated oil so I can assume it will do just fine at 40:1.
That is all great but as a conclusion to be save on Stihl ultra with modern chainsaws what is the recommendation? 1:40 would be save? Don't tell me about horses when we need oils 😉
It's 'good enough' for the manufacturers to please the environmentalists and yet not blow up the equipment so it lasts through the warranty period. They are in the business of selling saws etc. and aren't going to be selling as many if they last 20+ years. I think 40:1 is more ideal with any of the good oils. I heard the Stihl oil is Castrol. Equipment Mfr packaged oil is just re-labeled oil company oil with a premium. Of course, they can make it to spec sometimes with very minor changes to the formula, but those equipment engineers aren't chemical eng or tribologists. If there was a 'secret sauce' the oil company would market it under their own name. That Shindaiwa-Echo oil is VP but more expensive. VP has fuel stabilizers, cleaners and ethanol guard too but is 2/3 to 1/2 the price. Stihl loves to push their oil. I bought a 6 pack '1 dose' bottle pkg from the dealer when I bought a saw. Wasn't that impressed by it. Used it for mostly light duty string trimmer and blower work.
The oil is no good my expression even orange bottle 2-stroke oil has issue stop up carbon in exhaust on top of piston very bad i go back to my boat oil i never had issue with my saws just bye something you don't need if make your rings stick must not be to good of oil!
@@smokinbutts2 Long term, I can vouch for Amsoil saber and Stihl HP. There's a lot of very good oil out there. I wanna find out what works best at 50:1. But like I said I prefer 40:1. I think most oils will give better results at that ratio.
Just out of curiosity, in Europe premixed Alkylate Fuel is used quite a lot, how common is it in the US? Because everyone i have seen so far is mixing their own fuel.
@@richardflagg3084 Bardhal or other brand makes alkylate fuel pure without oil added. US peoples just use their chainsaw allot more than EU and the fuel is way cheaper than our ( not that much now but) In my region ( center France) pro use fuel mix but individuals use (the good one) alkylate mix. Cause we cut three stick and stock the saw one years 🤣
That piston looks more like carbon scoring than an oil issue. That's the only downside to open mufflers, carbon bounces and gets sucked right back into the motor. Thus the scoring...
Sincerely, I wish Stihl would update this oil. Under perfect conditions it will burn clean. It's time they reformulated it and brought it into the 21st century. I've tested just about everything from the small engine manufacturers and most are ok. Saber from Amsoil is really good at 40 or 50:1. Don't use it at 80 or 100:1. I'm taking a shine to the off road motorcycle oils. I've tested Motul and Honda in the last month or so and they are significantly better.
Well, seems since the saw pooped itself using Red Armor oil, that all these tests will have to be re-done. Bad jug ruined your results. Fun channel though!
Hard to argue with good ole 40:1. I’d rather change the plug once in a while than smoke a P&C or crank seals. Schaeffer’s, Echo Red Armor, or Amsoil Saber all provide excellent protection. If it wasn’t for the EPA’s bullsh*t, all the manufacturers would still be recommending 40:1.
@@richardflagg3084 I like the good ole days. When I had to cut something at the farm I would make up a new tank of gas if I did not have a full tank. I would take my 2.5 gallon tank, pour a can of Sta-Mix in it and head to my local gas station for 2.5 gallons of regular gas. No fancy measuring needed, just pour the oil in the tank and fill up the tank to the top. Didn’t even have a cap on the nozzle. I had long since lost it. I would put the tank up close to the cab on my 4 by 4 truck, along with a jug of bar oil and a socket wrench the right size for the bar nuts on my Poulan saws. My saws would be in the back of the truck, too. If it rained it rained. When I got to the farm I would fill the tanks on the two saws I brought with my new 40:1 mix. I would check the tension on the chains and then crank them up. They always ran. No more begging and pleading with them to run, they just ran. Smoked like hell but they ran. I ran the 40:1 in everything two cycle - my HS 76, FS 45, and all my saws. Now, Intake four saws in the hope one will run. Back in those days I did not care if they four stroked or not or they evened oiled properly, but they better run and cut what I needed to cut. I usually sharpened the chain with a 12 volt battery operated sharpener. If the chain wore down I just replaced it - no questions asked. My favorite saw was my 3750 Poulan. It had a 20 inch bow on it and a full chisel, full comp chain. You could buck big stuff with it by just sinking it in the log, lock the throttle wide open and walk away. It’s weight would cut right through the log and the claw would keep it out of the dirt, most of the time. It was about 60 cc but pulled over like a 25 cc saw.
Это масло хорошее. Отнесите пилу на регулировку к Хорошему Мастеру и посоветуйтесь. Раз не хотите работать по Инструкции. Некоторые советуют такое соотношение при обкатке, но на больших оборотах.
Yeah...I'm in New Zealand. I'll keep filling my 661 and other saws with a 40:1 mix of 95 octane and Mobil 1 racing full synthetic 2 stroke at 40:1..my local dealer has a "graveyard" of big Stihls and Huskies loggers have used 50:1 in and have died..the bigger saws simply need more oil. Just my 2c. And proper tuning, fresh fuel and a spotless air filter are paramount to engine protection in my eyes..been slingin a saw for over 40 years now. Never have I used 50:1. Thanks for the video sir!
I think it depends on the application and the saw. Smaller equipment just doesn’t get as hot, hence the need for a clean burning oil with a low flash point.
I've never believed in 50:1 or even 40:1. I've Always run a high quality oil, added detergent(Seafoam) and ran at 32:1. Never had a piece of equipment blow up on me. I use Lucas semi synthetic oil FD class. My trimmers and saws running 10 years as strong as the day I bought them. No cylinder or piston damage.
I run RC engines on Lucas 20:1, my lawn equipment/ saws 36:1
These videos are going to get you to the chainsaw channel top tier.
Thanks, it's more important (to me) to share what I've learned in the past and help us all learn more going forward. There's more wives tales in chainsaw land than at the sewing circle...... I'm trying to keep everything as fact based as possible.
@@richardflagg3084 o dude. Lol. I 100 percent agree, it also doesn't help everyone is a know it all/ engineer...bsafe sir
@@Cholton327 Head on a swivel
Great video, thanks for taking the time to do these tests, I’m aware how much effort goes into the whole process! Is it possible that the stihl hp ultra is cleaning off the carbon from the piston and cylinder head, releasing it and that is what is causing the scoring? Thanks again. New subscriber
I like 40:1 mix. I’ve used motorcycle 2 cycle oils many times. Maxima 927 and Bel Ray MC1 are favorites.
I love these tests. It looks like Ultra did its job but nothing extra. I’d like to see a little more from an oil. I like the orange bottle better.
HP Ultra is great oil for Stihl products @ 50:1,,,,, I have rebuilt no less than 3 High RPM 2 stroke motorcycle engines and for breakin I used Ultra HP @ 25:1 , initial start up , 2 - 3 heat cycles then full rip WFO ,,, zero issues
I always use hp stihl oil.No problems at all.I use that oil since 2008
Sthil oil is made by Castrol if you check on the label
Cannot wait to see the Dominator and Red Armor at 50:1.
I have been running a 25-year test of Stihl oil at 50:1. I maintain a 40-acre estate with an inventory of 12 Stihl tools, the oldest of which (a brush cutter, 026 chain saw and pole pruner) date to 1996. The highest hours, far in excess of 1,000, are on the brush cutter. Only the carburetor and throttle handle have been replaced. No tool has ever required piston/cylinder/crank/etc. work. Only Stihl oil has ever been used.
The traditional Orange bottle is a much better oil and was my go to oil until switching to Schaeffers. I assume that's what you've been running?
@@richardflagg3084 Yup, only that one. I buy it two gallons at a time. The only problem is that my equipment is outlasting the replacement parts supply, for what few I need.
Friend mix 1:33 LS + husqvarna is ok for 372 xp 357xp 351?
Richard, thanks for all your hard work in giving us test based results concerning 2 cycle lubrication. My local Stihl dealer from whom I bought a MS261 pro saw told me to get away from Stihl HP Ultra and switch to Shindaiwa/Echo Red Armor. He’s also an Echo dealer. He was adamant about it and said they had seen some issues with HP Ultra run equipment. I did as he instructed and can tell you my saw and 14 1/2 year old Stihl fs80 string trimmer are running beautifully and are well lubricated. By the way, I run my equipment at 50:1 with 90 grade non ethanol fuel. My $0.02. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Glad your dealer is honest about it. The Orange bottle at 40:1 is impressive on a long term basis from what I've witnessed. I'll say it again, Ultra is not a bad oil, there's just other high quality oils out there that are more forgiving if you don't run your equipment "properly".
I run Sthil Hp in a variety of engines. In my modern Nikasil engines I run 42.5:1 and decarbon every now and then. In older steel sleeve engines I need to run 32:1 and decarbon a bit more often.
The amount of oil in the bottom end is what I see, when I run synthetic oil at 50/1. There is a light coating of boundary oil on piston and bearings. If carb is adjusted rich, you will see more, but you are giving up power.
Keep up testing, you are showing people what goes into keeping equipment running properly. I said this before ( you have opened a can of worms)
I do like your determination. 🤙
ALL the above is true sir. Thanks!!
@@richardflagg3084 Friend mix 1:33 LS + husqvarna is ok for 372 xp 357xp 351?
Thank you really appreciate what your doing love to see more maybe different mix ratios
Great job Richard you are really putting in the work on this test. I remember you taking saw apart with your Schaffer oil it was a lot better and puddled in bottom of crankcase.
Started using Echo oil 1977 had zero problems with that Echo trimmer replaced it with Echo straight shaft 1990’s it was still running and I still have and use the straight shaft had to replace the primer bulb & fuel lines . I’ll stick with 40 to one mix . As a STIHL dealership now I’ve seen a lot of piston & cylinder scoring! I’ll stick with 40to one and Echo oil even in my STIHL saws
That old grey Echo equipment is tough as nails. Most reliable hand held ever made. And yes, the Echo oils are very good! Thanks for the comment.
When I pulled the cylinder off my ms 460 last year after running it with Echo Red Armor. The piston and cylinder were slobbering with red oil. I was very pleased how that FD oil was lubricating the 460. What I did not like about Red Armor was it did not stabilize in my saws. I left RA in my MS 251 and it had turned bad after seven months. They say it is good for two years. Horse lucky.. the 251 bout took my arm off when I tried to crank it. I poured it out and replaced it with Stihl Moto Mix and cranked it right up. RA gas actually turned brown in my Poulan S25 DA. I poured it out and refilled it with PBG 50:1 and cranked it right up.
I think the shelf life claims are a little lofty. That's pretty extreme the fuel turned brown. There are some things to take into account. Once you open a can of fuel and take some out the clock starts running faster. The less air in the can/tank the slower it "ages". Conversely half a tank or can will age pretty quick under the less than ideal conditions. Sunoco had some good info on their website regarding this topic. I haven't been able to find that page recently.
Your saw has a tank vent on it and allows it to hold pressure and release pressure. Temp swings from hot to cold will allow the tank to "breathe". Or simply running it on a warm day and storing it over night in a cool garage/shed the tank vent will allow a small amount of air and humidity in as it cools.
@@richardflagg3084 I use Union 76 premium - non ethanol with whatever oil I am using at the time. I measure everything, 77 ml of two cycle oil in exactly one gallon of gas. I do not remember exactly what I had in the gallon of Red Armor fuel. I made it last October is all I remember. When I tried to crank my ms 251 it took my arm off. I thought it might have been the oil but I now think the gas went bad with it. I did not put any stabilizer in the gas because Echo says it will stabilize the gas for two years. I was not sure what happened until I tried to crank my Poulan S25 DA in July. I must have pulled it over 100 times with not even a pop. I looked at the gas and it looked red but when I poured it out it was a brown color. I washed out the tank with some fresh Echo 50:1 PBG and then filled it up with PBG. It popped on the second pull and cranked up in two more pulls. It did not tell me what had happened to the gas but it did confirm what I had thought. On the last tank of PBG that I made I added one ounce of Startron to it. I like the smell it gives the exhaust, too.
Problem is, you have no control how people mix oil abd use their saw. Anything can happen. Ive been using ultra hp for 25 years on my 310 and its been a gem. Not everyday use but weekly. Great product
I'll keep mixing my API-TC 2T 32:1, I've been running FRESH pump fuel in this mix for decades and the only issues I've had are oil-can diaphragms and rock hard fuel lines.
Thanks a lot...greetings from SPAIN (Barcelona)
Well I like all the comments , lots of great opinions , seems everyone has some kind of formula that works for them so I thought I'd share my observations. I years ago ran mostly Pennzoil 2stroke at about 40-1 , bought it in 1 gallon bottle and it was cheep , never any trouble until about 15 yrs ago on a 105 degree day I had a saw lock up on me ( by the way this Homelite saw still runs strong ) . After this I changed to Stihl oil and over the years as tools got weak to the point they didn't want to run (stuck rings and the like) I would hang it up in the barn and buy new . Three yrs ago I started having trouble with gas going bad after 3-4 weeks so I started using AVgas (100 LL - $5.60 gal) and went to steel gas cans , everything ran great and no more stale gas . This time last year I bought a new Echo saw & started using Red Armor oil - then I got a wild hair - revive some old tools . I now have no retired tools ,all saws weedwackers etc are running better with each tank of fuel - took 7 to 12 tanks of fuel for them to come back to life (oldest weedwacker stihl 27 yrs- stopped using 9yrs ago) . Red Armor & avgas YEA
That’s a great story. Glad you found the right recipe!!!
Friend mix 1:33 LS + husqvarna is ok for 372 xp 357xp 351?
😂 I've never farted popcorn! In our snowmobile race engines I want the combustion chamber dry and bottom end a little wet. But a chain saw engine is put more stress than a snowmobile
Lol
Been using Amsoil Saber Professional oil for over the past 10 years 100/1 mix no problems of any kind. 125 Super. 075 076 056 magnum super 150 xl925 655 550 394xp etc etc.
Wow!
@@twintwo1429 you can’t even spell, and are rude and crude instead of professional. Why should we listen to you?
Uh huh ! LoL
I will stick with running 32:1 in my saws. Looking at your piston made me think of a song from a Kiwi singer, the song title "there's a fraction too much friction". The honest truth is 50:1 is fine in a water cooled outboard but for my money no good for something air cooled.
Try 42.5:1 and decarbon every now and then.
I set the clutch on my DeWalt drill to 7 when using it to put screws back in or taking them out. At 7 it is not going to strip out anything. I do hand start them.
I like an oil that doesn’t all completely burn. I wanna see some wetness in the muffler can. I could have it all wrong but seems like the ultra is designed to completely burn
That's what I get with Husqy xp oil at 40:1.
It kinda scares me and the only way that I can describe it is "wet exhaust gases".
Never took the muffler out, but I suspect that the damn thing is lubed up into heaven.
@@1u5t1n if the muffler is lubed up the piston sure and the hell is. Why complain about that 🤷🏽♂️
@@cajun3197 we'll see where we sit in the carbon deposits department after all this.
@@1u5t1n I don’t know, I never been inside a saw😂. But I’m sure Rich will have some good proof of what oil is good or not
@@cajun3197 🤣😎
Do you have any M Tronic saws you could do the test with? That way it gets run more on the lean side of things and really test the film strength. Keep up the good work! I also really enjoy the porting videos! 🤟🏻
I just saw this responding to another comment. I just finished a 661. I'll resume the oil tests here in the next few days (in between repairs and stuff).
I've switched to 33:1 and all issues related to overheating have gone away, my milling saw or other saws of other people I know that did the switch too. Including in ppl that like to fidget with their carb (and don't really know that well what they're doing sadly), have stopped scoring cylinders, even if their H is set a tad lean and the saw is ran hard. Not going back to 50:1 even on m-tronic or a proper tune, the lower end bearings don't really like high gas-oil ratios on the long run.
At 33:1 you need to hit the engine with your favorite decarbon product or you could risk hanging the rings in the piston grooves from deposits.
@@shannonwhitaker9630 That’s not a real thing no more. Modern synthetic oils dont carbon up anything, they either burn cleanly or get spit out the muffler. Its low quality gas and a rich tune that carbon stuff up. Or cheapo mineral oil.
@@em4703 i have the same personal experience, used to run 91 pumpgas with HP ultra but always thought 50:1 was not enough oil, switched to mixing redline 2 stroke smokeless at 32:1 which flashes at about 103C, when i tuned my 036 i thought something was wrong with the saw because despite 32:1 the only carbon to be found on the plugs were on the groundstrap compared to the relatively carbon covered plugs it used to have.
Im not saying the HP ultra DID NOT cause that scroring, but i work on Stihl power equipment every day that have run the ultra their entire life and they are fine. Stihl has done extensive testing on their products and one test on an older saw does not prove much. If anything, id blame that measuring cup. That fuel should be clear if its non ethanol. It soaked up that plastic resin. Anyways, i still enjoyed the video and thanks for the input.
I used to think amsoil was snake oil. But I have a friend who’s run it 100:1 in an ultralight for hundreds of hours. Another guys tested to destruction at like 2 or 300:1 for hours and amsoil won.
I wonder if that "friend" goes by the handle Red97 or DynoJoe ....? BTW I'm East/West CAD Addict on dem der sites.
@@jerseyjoshua4818 no, it’s rock dawg sidewinder. The destructive testing was on ope. -wyby
@@twintwo1429 believe what you wish. One guy had pictures videos and explanations of the whole process and many of us saw it. The other guy I know well, and he’s no BSer.
First time and last I used AMS under the one in it Yamaha dirt bike that locked up going about 60 haha. Is it funny how some people have good luck and others not with the same thing.
I had a friend who ran Amzoil at 100:1 in his Ultralight and crashed it on a sandbar when the engine seized and locked up tight lol… true story.
I think the scratches on the piston were a result of operator error. Either it was set lean or ran lean due to low fuel in the tank. I don’t think the brand of oil had anything to do with it.
Very interesting from several viewpoints Richard.
I have voiced my oppinion about much of this since your first oil video several weeks ago.
I'll reserve detail oriented remarks for later, except to reiterate that for proper bearing lubrication/longevity, oil needs to be puddled in the CC IMO. Probably about a teaspoon full. So whatever oil/gas ratio necessary for a given oil to produce that result is what the ratio should be for that oil IMHO. At least that would be my goal.. One size does not fit all for different oils.
You are among a handful of Chanel operators that go out of their way for research and educational purposes. I hope to learn from this series.. Cudos to you for your effort and time along with running a business. .
I hope all your viewers appreciate the effort you make as do I.
Speaking of viewers, you are adding them at a fast pace of late. Congrats.
You don't have Belray H1R. I'll send a liter if you supply an address.
Wow! Thank you.
I'll check my local cycle shop for the Belray H1R. I know they carry the foam filter oil (when it's in stock) pfffttt.
I like to see enough oil to just wet the crank wheels after it's all run back down after sitting, but I've been mixing API-TC 32:1 because that's what we've always done (even with bean oil) and it just works for me.
Friend mix 1:33 LS + husqvarna is ok for 372 xp 357xp 351?
@@Sensei948 Husqvarna HP+ would be a better choice.
Cutting with that chain dull throws another variable in this testing does it not. I've seen saws destroyed with someone using a dull chain. However I do like what you're doing with your testing of the 50 to one just think you need less variables to narrow it down to what the mix does
Do you get total brand 2 stroke over there in the states? We have run it here in New Zealand for years at 32:1 and no carbon build up at all
I don't know man. My dad has a small farm he uses a handheld Stihl leaf blower way way more than it was ever intended to be used. It blows off equipment all the time, cleans gutters, blows leaves, you name it. He uses Stihl Ultra and that blower has never missed a beat. I'm in no way trying to discredit your knowledge just saying stating his experience. The Stihl dealer can't believe that blower still runs strong. Has to be 8-9 years old.
I had a chuckle when you said the Stihl dealer said "can't believe it's still runs strong". On a more serious note some of the handheld blowers had bearing issues which had an official recall/warranty issue. Pull the muffler and have a peek at the piston skirt just for kicks.
I thing it depends on how long and hard the saws are ran
Here's my logic (for what it's worth): A chainsaw sump is not made to run wet. A wet sump after inspection may do little to improve wear resistance. A light film may be all that is required to do the job. Too much oil puts more hydrocarbons out into the environment , Times change. Like I said, for what it's worth.
I agree. A light film should be adequate. Dry as a popcorn fart, not so much.
I use 40:1 in all my saws. Motul 800 off road 2t .
Try 42.5:1
I have been running the Motul 800 off road 2T hard with a MS461 pulling a 25” full comp bar with zero issues of heating even in this Texas heat. I running close to 45:1, give or take a little based on how accurate I can with those gas cans I use. The Motul is at it’s best when you take the plug off and there is a nice dry brown color coating on the plug. Looking at the piston through the plug with a camera shows absolutely no scarring and no buildup on the top of the piston. That is my go to oil for all my saws.
I don’t know about the trimmers and blowers, the Stihl Ultra works just fine, but you need to use you head a little since these are not in the same league as a profession saw.
Perhaps rather *MORE* oil if you must use this Gunge? As in closer to 28 to 1? Enough that it smokes continuously?
(That way you know it’s got *OIL* in the mix, to my thinking.)
What ratio would you recommend for a stihl 500i? Would it be sensitive seeing as it's fuel injected.?? Currently running 50:1 on aspen 4 mixed with hp super. Also would running 40:1 not cause the piston to be dirtier?
I have no personal experience with Super so I can't say with any real world experience. it's an FD rated oil so I can assume it will do just fine at 40:1.
the Shaffer rep came to my shop and we tested Amsoil and Shaffer and other oils Shaffer smoked everybody wasn't even close
That is all great but as a conclusion to be save on Stihl ultra with modern chainsaws what is the recommendation? 1:40 would be save? Don't tell me about horses when we need oils 😉
What do you mean with "fourstroking"? 🤔🤷♂️
It's 'good enough' for the manufacturers to please the environmentalists and yet not blow up the equipment so it lasts through the warranty period. They are in the business of selling saws etc. and aren't going to be selling as many if they last 20+ years. I think 40:1 is more ideal with any of the good oils. I heard the Stihl oil is Castrol. Equipment Mfr packaged oil is just re-labeled oil company oil with a premium. Of course, they can make it to spec sometimes with very minor changes to the formula, but those equipment engineers aren't chemical eng or tribologists. If there was a 'secret sauce' the oil company would market it under their own name. That Shindaiwa-Echo oil is VP but more expensive. VP has fuel stabilizers, cleaners and ethanol guard too but is 2/3 to 1/2 the price. Stihl loves to push their oil. I bought a 6 pack '1 dose' bottle pkg from the dealer when I bought a saw. Wasn't that impressed by it. Used it for mostly light duty string trimmer and blower work.
As fi curios cu un raport 60 1
I cut wood all year long 300 day a year day in day out so far i have not found a good 2 stroke oil
The oil is no good my expression even orange bottle 2-stroke oil has issue stop up carbon in exhaust on top of piston very bad i go back to my boat oil i never had issue with my saws just bye something you don't need if make your rings stick must not be to good of oil!
What would you run in a Husqvarna 550 and 572 brand and mix ratio? Thanks!
I've seen the benefits of mixing 40:1 first hand. Hopefully I can back up my preference with some solid testing going forward. Thanks!
@@richardflagg3084 any particular brand of oil ? Thanks
@@smokinbutts2 Long term, I can vouch for Amsoil saber and Stihl HP. There's a lot of very good oil out there. I wanna find out what works best at 50:1. But like I said I prefer 40:1. I think most oils will give better results at that ratio.
Just out of curiosity, in Europe premixed Alkylate Fuel is used quite a lot, how common is it in the US? Because everyone i have seen so far is mixing their own fuel.
As I understand it, Motomix and Aspen are the only Alkylate fuels available. Maybe VP Racing has one I'm just not sure. Thank you!
@@richardflagg3084
Bardhal or other brand makes alkylate fuel pure without oil added.
US peoples just use their chainsaw allot more than EU and the fuel is way cheaper than our ( not that much now but)
In my region ( center France) pro use fuel mix but individuals use (the good one) alkylate mix.
Cause we cut three stick and stock the saw one years 🤣
That piston looks more like carbon scoring than an oil issue. That's the only downside to open mufflers, carbon bounces and gets sucked right back into the motor. Thus the scoring...
You might just be onto something there??? 🤔👍✌
It’s known that Stihl oil is…meh. Amsoil FTW. Or just about any other synthetic.
Here we go another video about "film strength"
I’ve got a question 🙋♂️ what if u run the saw with premium gas mixed with the ultra?
Sincerely, I wish Stihl would update this oil. Under perfect conditions it will burn clean. It's time they reformulated it and brought it into the 21st century. I've tested just about everything from the small engine manufacturers and most are ok. Saber from Amsoil is really good at 40 or 50:1. Don't use it at 80 or 100:1. I'm taking a shine to the off road motorcycle oils. I've tested Motul and Honda in the last month or so and they are significantly better.
770 ml and 20 mi oil, is not 1:50, for 1:50 you need 1000ml and 20ml.
good video oil stihl ultra its bad is its stink when it burns
It does smell bad.
husqvarna xp oil in quebec is also worse but it stinks less
mineral oil is better is smells better
Please test the husqvarna xp oil
It's in the works. Thanks!
@@richardflagg3084 thanks
4 mix oil no thanks ! Saber Dominator or Red Armor only . Something caused the scratch s either previous carbon or dirt Injestion !
Stihl oil is made by castrol
No buddy you picked the hardware and also the video you did with the motomix you said you and your buddy both said you were surprised lol
Test has been done many time and never has good results!
For the ultra anyway.
Well, seems since the saw pooped itself using Red Armor oil, that all these tests will have to be re-done. Bad jug ruined your results. Fun channel though!
That’s a fail in my opinion. Just my opinion. Not terrible but still not acceptable
Hard to argue with good ole 40:1. I’d rather change the plug once in a while than smoke a P&C or crank seals.
Schaeffer’s, Echo Red Armor, or Amsoil Saber all provide excellent protection. If it wasn’t for the EPA’s bullsh*t, all the manufacturers would still be recommending 40:1.
I'd have to agree. New OEM piston on order before we do anymore testing.
@@darrellpeak2914 tru dat 😎😎😎😎🍻
@@richardflagg3084 😉
@@cajun3197 "I ain't no veterinarian"
My only problem with Ultra is it is filthy as hell and smells like crap.
I personally can't stand the smell of it.
@@richardflagg3084 I like the good ole days. When I had to cut something at the farm I would make up a new tank of gas if I did not have a full tank. I would take my 2.5 gallon tank, pour a can of Sta-Mix in it and head to my local gas station for 2.5 gallons of regular gas. No fancy measuring needed, just pour the oil in the tank and fill up the tank to the top. Didn’t even have a cap on the nozzle. I had long since lost it. I would put the tank up close to the cab on my 4 by 4 truck, along with a jug of bar oil and a socket wrench the right size for the bar nuts on my Poulan saws. My saws would be in the back of the truck, too. If it rained it rained. When I got to the farm I would fill the tanks on the two saws I brought with my new 40:1 mix. I would check the tension on the chains and then crank them up. They always ran. No more begging and pleading with them to run, they just ran. Smoked like hell but they ran. I ran the 40:1 in everything two cycle - my HS 76, FS 45, and all my saws. Now, Intake four saws in the hope one will run. Back in those days I did not care if they four stroked or not or they evened oiled properly, but they better run and cut what I needed to cut. I usually sharpened the chain with a 12 volt battery operated sharpener. If the chain wore down I just replaced it - no questions asked. My favorite saw was my 3750 Poulan. It had a 20 inch bow on it and a full chisel, full comp chain. You could buck big stuff with it by just sinking it in the log, lock the throttle wide open and walk away. It’s weight would cut right through the log and the claw would keep it out of the dirt, most of the time. It was about 60 cc but pulled over like a 25 cc saw.
@@johnclarke6647 Ahhh the Good Ole days. Life really was simpler then, and honestly not that long ago. Thanks for sharing a little bit about yourself.
Looks normal to me.
So should I run the Ultra at 40 to one as they sold me a six pac with my new Stihl MS 251 saw? TY
Это масло хорошее. Отнесите пилу на регулировку к Хорошему Мастеру и посоветуйтесь. Раз не хотите работать по Инструкции. Некоторые советуют такое соотношение при обкатке, но на больших оборотах.
"LESS GRAMMAR, MORE HAMMER!" Yet another Flagg verbal nugget to steal and use. 🤌
Use it all you want. I'd love to credit for that nugget, but I can't.