Body Filler is Good; Don't be Afraid to Use it!
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- Body Filler or "Bondo" is a good thing. This video explains why being afraid to use it can actually cause more problems than correctly applying what you need. Tools, materials & merch below:
*** Body Filler: autobodymaster.com/product_lis... $21/gal
*** Metal Spreaders: www.jbtools.com/gl-enterprise...
*** Cheese Grater Blade: Stanley® 21-299, Surform 10" Half Round Blade Standard Cut
*** Small Rubber Block: www.harborfreight.com/4-78-in...
*** Primer: www.myautovaluestore.com/auto...
*** Lacquer Thinner for Primer: Any brand lacquer thinner will work like this - www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Str... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Aircraft mechanic here with a true story. Beechcraft engineered a repair to the vertical stab on a king air 200 that had a bird strike. They basically engineered a flush patch repair. Beech specified “aerodynamic smoothing compound” to fill the small gaps in the flush patch. We dutifully ordered the correct p/n from Beechcraft. We had a great laugh when we unboxed the “Aerodynamic Smoothing Compound!” It was a standard quart can of Bondo!!
Great story Steve - thanks for sharing. I should start using the term ASC instead of Bondo - maybe it would get more respect.
Amen! It makes sense that putting enough filler in one coat would be better than stacking multiple coats. Good lesson, as always.👍
When I was a teenager I did some horrific body work. Link an inch and a half of bondo on the door of my Toyota. I used nearly a whole gallon on that one door and I still see the car around town with very little rust and no cracking on that door!
I used to body work to my own cars back in the day and this was exactly my problem. Always going with multiple coats and getting into the same problems you showed. Thanks for your video's.
You're welcome Andy - have a good weekend :)
0:40 - 1:40 I feel personally attacked
Another good one! Good to show the use of that cheese grater, before the full bondo set up...saves much time later.
What a great video. This dude is an expert, he knows what mindset leads to success and everything. Thank you
Thanks Jerry...I've done all those things you mentioned, and ended up with a lot of extra work!
I doubt it - your work looks real nice - have a good weekend JRS :)
👍🏻Thanks for another “to the point” video.
You will make many of us better at body work!!!
Thanks Michael - always appreciate your comments - have a good weekend my friend :)
Exactly right. So much fun to watch.
Thanks man! 😎
Great job Jerry! You are able to communicate what you are doing so that it is easy to understand. Thanks again for taking the time to make quality videos.
You're welcome my friend - hopefully they help you out when working on your projects :)
Another great educational video. I want our weather to warm up so I can get back to my project
Thanks Jerry, great stuff and have a great weekend.
You to my friend :)
Nice techniques and good quality work. Thanks Jerry 👍
Thanks 👍 vicshone - always a pleasure to hear from you :)
Another Classic Face Melting intro on the six string from one of my favorite CZcams auto body Dudes!
I’m just starting the filler work on my 67 Fairlane. Love it! Keep ‘em coming
That 67 Fairlane is one of Fords nicest looking cars. There's a lot you can do with that body style. Keep it classic, jack it up in the back w/ fat tires, drag car, etc. I'll keep them coming 67 - nice to hear from you my friend :)
I figured this out the hard way. I also use this strategy for primer. Instead of priming, sanding, priming, sanding, etc I spray 6-7 coats of surfacer all at one time. Then I sand in stages starting with 80 and ending with 400. This way I only have to wait for surfacer to dry one time. Also, I guide coat between grits of course. Thanks!
Great channel. Love the DIY with the professional finish learning and tools. 👍
Thanks for watching Marc 😊
Another quality video. Great information.
Glad you enjoyed it GH - have a great weekend my friend :)
Nicely done Bud!!☻
You make it look so easy. Thanks for the video
You're welcome Joe - have a good weekend :)
hello Joe how are you doing 😊
i have watched a lot of your videos. they are certainly educational and informative. as soon as the weather gets a bit better, i will be tackling the rear fender lips of my Odyssey. this has given me the confidence to try fix the rust spots. it's an 2006 but runs great. i just don't like looking at rust. thanks for the videos, keep them coming
You'll be a proud driver of a respectable looking 2006 Odyssey!
Remember guys life is not that serious Autobody body should not be different. Some people can’t not afford a Great Metal Guy or a Great body guy Or a great painter. The part I love about this work that it keeps all of us busy or makes some of us money to support are family’s . But is fun for me . I do the best that I can . I learn this because I couldn’t afford a paint job on my Vw bug . Check it out I have nice people waiting for me to paint there Vw bug . And I take pride in everything I do . I am only one man and I do it all by myself. And this gentleman is the best I seen on you tube. When I learn how to mix body filler I say I am in the gold lol
Very well said - it should be about having some fun, being proud to drive something you did, and keeping busy / staying out of trouble :)
@@LakesideAutobody I believe so it work for me
Just thank you
Totally agree! The less coats the better.
Thanks for giving your time to teach these techniques ,regards from Auckland New Zealand.
You're welcome Alan. Auckland New Zealand sounds nice. I used to have a 16mm film on New Zealand from the 1960's - seemed like a nice place to live :)
hello Alan how are you doing 😊
I just want to say I've been doing this for 30 years in northwest pa. Show cars collision work everything rust repair and you taught me the the one thing that has always slowed down my jobs dealing with my filler work thank you so much and I've learned a lot of other great tips from you to keep up the great work
Thanks for the kind words Robert and I'm so glad to hear the videos helped you out. Have a good week my friend 👍✌
You thoroughly covered an important subject Jerry!
Thanks for the support Icar - I appreciate it :)
I've been watching your videos lately in preparation for doing some rust repair on my truck. I've done some bodywork before, but with mixed results. I just finished one side of my truck on the weekend though and I must say - it's the best I've ever done. Your bondo and sanding techniques in particular were hugely helpful. Thank you.
I'm glad to hear that Jared - glad it helped. Filler work is not easy and even guys who have worked for years in a shop have trouble too. Nice job sticking with it - you're welcome :)
hello how are you doing 😊
Outstanding video!! Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it my friend - have a good weekend :)
Great advice and instruction as usual, thanks Jerry 🙂
You're welcome PAS - have a great weekend :)
Ty for the content!
You are wise!
Just wanted to say thanks for these videos. Working on my Silverado now replacing the wheel arches. Used the titanium 125 and your videos on filler helped a ton
I'm real happy to hear that. I hope everything works out for you and the videos make things a bit more fun and easy. It's good times working out in the garage - building something you'll be proud to drive. Ask ?s any time - I answer 1-2 times a day :)
His videos helped me redo a 1977 Chevy 4x4 that was rusted out bad his video on the 125 welder showed me it would work it turned out very good
Great Video, Mr. Jerry. Better to have more then correct 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Thanks Realest :)
Thanks for your no-nonsense videos on bodywork. I'm currently doing the body and paintwork on a '68 C-10 with the aid of your videos.
That's a great looking truck - the GMC of that time period was really tough looking too. Let me know how it goes for you Phillip. Is VanSickle Belgium?
@@LakesideAutobody VanSickle is a Dutch name. My family came to North America in the 1600's and first settled in what is now NY City and Norhtern NJ.
@@phillipvansickle4220 Cool - just wondering 'cause my last name starts with Van but it's Belgium. That's interesting they came way back then - NY must have been so different. Crazy how much has changed in such a short time 😊
Good Video...but if you do have to do an additional "spot" fill, you can use some 36/40 grit on a block and catch the plastic when it's in the tacky stage and level it down just fine and continue. But skimming the entire area is...King. I've found feathering the edges with 80-grit before the fill is also beneficial.
Thanks for the input CQ - good tips :)
I find you refreshingly honest, nice work, you’re the bodyman in my book.
Thanks Tim - I do focus on not trying to hide anything - one should know that every body person runs into problems at times but you get better and better at solving them with time :)
I always enjoy watching your videos
Thanks Tim - that's good to hear :)
Your so right! I do every day!!
👍✌💯
Excellent topic and demonstration, Jerry! I just did an SUV liftgate, and struggled with this exact issue. Instead of initially filling a nice wide area around the repair, I wound up re-filling and chasing straightness across the panel. It only takes one stubborn high or low spot to kick that off sometimes, it seems! Take care, man.
You take care to Erich - good hearing from you. "Hit it low and fill it with dough." - that was the saying when someone was playing around with high spots and chasing straightness like you said.
As usual You definitely show the real difference between a professional and a novice, really enjoy Your videos.
Thanks Ed - thanks for the support and have a good weekend my friend :)
Thank you very much for the video. Your video was very helpful.
Glad it helped - you're welcome Bob :)
I love when a pro gives the ok to use plastic fillers !!!
I find myself trying to put it on too thin..... Wave city.
Great video Jerry. Have a good weekend.
Thanks PSG - don't let anyone make you feel guilty about using it - it's sort of like beer snobs - you can never make them happy no matter what you're drinking :)
@@LakesideAutobody Good analogy !!
Thank you, You just described exactly what Iv'e been doing wrong. I just body worked and painted my 1st car and it's not to bad, But you can see a lot of tiny ripples from doing just what you showed was the wrong way. I also think that each time you re-mix and add filler it's hardness or softness varies so when you sand it you get that unwanted effect you where talking about. Great videos, Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Just subscribed !!!
Good point on the variable hardness
You are absolutely right about the different hardness. That's where the cheese grater really will help you. If you have to fill in any low spots, you can cheese grate those areas till its almost right on and the grater will not have an effect on the hardened filler at all - nothing - 'cause its too hard for the grater too cut. Then just a little sanding and you're really close - prime and block :)
Thanks! The old Eastwood method- keep it tight! Then 20 more steps & 6 weeks later your panel is done.. 🤣
I suffered from too little filler the first year of doing this on my own too. Sand, layer, sand, layer, sand, layer, sand, prime, shit, layer prime, sand, oh no, prime, paint and then you can still see problems.
Also much more risk of delamination and contamination when you start doing muliptle layers of filler, especially over primer, and then trying to finish glaze cause your still struggling. Its just not worth it or necessary!
You described it preftlectly and you still end up with imperfections in the end possible fish eyes and even worse solvent pops if you rush the stages because it just keeps going on and on. Solvent pop let's water in then rust.
Sure IF you end up needing less mm to cover your work after repair it's good.. but you have to cover what you've got to work with.
Hey, my method is I always use bondoglass first, over the seam and low areas to seal it with moisture barrier, knock it down. Then follow with bondo.. may contradict what I said above.. but it seems best in the salt belt. I haven't seen any detrimental effects yet.
So I just finished with rockers and cab corners on my f350 and I am guilty of doing this. She don't look too bad if ya stare directly into the sun first!😅 I won't be so hesitant on the other side. Great video👍
I love it "stare at the sun first" - don't be hesitant. I like those F250s and F350s - tough looking trucks no matter what year :)
Me, being a mechanic first and a decent but slow (like glacial slow) body guy second, there is a gentle touch required, not brute force. It takes me 2 weeks or so of continuous body work to get the feel again after wrenching on stuff. Now, blocks, I have a very nice set of foam blocks, and a mud hog, nice da, air sled air file whatever you call it, but sometimes for rough bodywork and rough shaping alot of filler, I use a piece of aluminum flat bar, like 1/2x1 inch. Really works well on the angular gm stuff like 03-07 cts, 07 up tahoes, but fair warning, it has almost no flex. Great for very low crown areas, like the doglegs on 07 up suburbans where they like to rust out. After cutting the rotten crud out and welding in patch panels of course.
Sometimes a second coat is unavoidable. I have found that if you see that the first coat isn't going to be enough in several areas, it is better to cut the entire area generally low. Then apply a second coat over the entire area. This will avoid the problem of breaking into the first coat, as you work the second coat, and the different hardness in the coats becomes a non issue. Also if a second coat is needed, it is a good idea to allow a bit of time for the first coat to stop out-gassing to avoid excessive pinholes. One other thing about finishing mud, I used to stop at 80 grit and prime from there, but I now take the finishing to 180 or even 220 grit. This allows me to better feel and see any waves and it saves the re-prime time. Good videos! Thanks.
Great tip about leaving the entire area low and applying a 2nd coat over the whole thing. Thanks for your input Tim - good stuff :)
Great job👍
Thanks Alnuaeme - have a good weekend :)
I've not worked in a body shop in 19 years but when I did, I only used filler to cover my hammer marks. I do understand though that not everyone is fantastic with a hammer and dolly and that's okay too.
Thanks!
No problem - hope it helps :)
Must admit i struggle with filler, its so hard to get it right, thanks for this tip jerry 👍
You're welcome - I'll do some more stuff on that - it's very tricky. Don't let anyone tell you it's easy - it's not. I've had a lot of folks talk about the same issue. Lots of body men I've worked with too, had issues getting filler straight - there were panel replacer guys and guys filler guys that "fix" instead of replace.
Thanks for this video.... 👍
You're welcome 😊
If you want to try and fill something like this in one coat, you should really "key in" the filler. Press it in hard into all your scratches to get a good bond. And then put on a thick coat. Personally i fill my known low spots first and then tight skim to feather. No pinholes and overall better job. Thin coats are better then one thick coat.
Informative as usual. Thanks. I.G.
You're welcome IG - thanks for the support :)
All ye doubters: take it from me, he's right.
Thank's lot;s to learn.Good work.
You're welcome :)
Thanks, I am that DIY guy putting it on in layers like drywall, thanks for a great tip.
You're welcome my friend - I'll be doing some more vids on getting filler straight - seems to be a very common challenge :)
1 application ' couldn't agree more ' I've used
Long straight edges to
smooth it out after applying it.
Thanks for the input Keith - have a good weekend :)
You make it look so easy. It's very artisanal
Let me take a second to look up that word.....Ah - got it. Thanks Brian - I appreciate your support my friend - have a good weekend :)
As a diy guy who does my own body work and I’m nowhere near a professional, that’s totally me, putting too little filler on then reapply like 5 times. Frustrating!!
It was me too my friend - I must have done thousands of dents before getting it together. Keep at it. When you do get it - there will be nothing that you can't straighten - nothing. Just like riding a bike. Ask ?s too - anything - I answer 1-2 times a day - Jerry
Right on ! Keep riding a personal is a person that rides a bike fall get up ride fall gets up fall gets up . Don’t get frustrated. Look at bodywork like a Puzzle 🧩 take your time and do not bet your self up . You can do it
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 Thanks for your input Hobby AF - I appreciate it. Very cool of you my friend :)
2 things I've gotten so far (there's more I'm not too stupid usually)
We amateurs use too fine a sandpaper on filler and don't apply enough.
Since watching this channel a bunch while in a project, now I've got to go back on what I thought I had done decently, and clean it up a little.
very well said for those new to field.
now to give YOU a laugh, my first shop teacher, wouldnt allow filler of any type, 100% metal finished, & no electric welder allowed, only oxygen acetylene torch, with files, picks, dollys and hammers. he was from by-gone era, then passed it along, but made me the metal man I am today. of course this was all the 1950's 60's & 70's cars that were mild strength steel.
Can't beat that knowledge though for the basics. You're right about that era - my dad was a body man and used picks, metal files, brazing, etc. - probably thought I was a hack! He's was always yelling at me about not cleaning up, putting tools away, getting overspray all over everything in the garage. Good times :)
@@LakesideAutobody I am bad for leaving tools out, until finished project, so at end of the day, I may only blow dust & metal shavings away, and leave everything to start back next day. but I do put all tools away & clean when done. so I may be several days replacing a floor, so yes all tools needed are out around me. lol. its one of my quirks.
1 guy that showed me the ropes as a very young kid, before I knew body work was a profession, when he died, his daughter gave me all his body tools, last year, her ex & son got all mechanic tools, but I got body stuff, I have worked with his daughter at primary job over 38 years, but I do body work as side work. but was so cool to get, & used a bunch so far, where otherwise, they would have been ignored, or thrown away
@@randymack1782 It's good that you got them - I'm sure they'll be well taken care of and put to good use :)
The introduction of the body filler sounds like you were watching me😀. Thanks for the tips.
👍🛠😊
you and I both got the camo Super Clean hat!
I love that hat. It fits just right and looks decent :)
Nice work. I have been doing a little bit wrong for a long time. I will start doing it this way. I was wondering something. I have been doing a thin coat of kitty hair filler first because it is a welded patch, and supposedly it seals the weld from moisture. Is this necessary? Can I just go for straight filler on top of bare metal? I have putting etching primer or rust converter first and the filler, is that wrong?
I like regular filler over clean ground metal using a 36 grit fiber resin disc to prepare the metal. That's how most shops I've worked at did it. I had one boss make us use rust converter but I'm not sure if it made a big difference. You can use fiberglass reinforced filler if you want but I don't - again same boss made us do that - but I hate sanding it so I went to straight filler and never had/have issues.
The guy that showed me how to to body work said it’s just bondo if you put too much you just have to sand more and then you will get the hing of it and he was right he liked everything hand sanded
I like to put on bondo first and and get it near straight, then I put on a bigger coat of glaze and it becomes straight
I bought a used 2005 Scion xB few weeks ago and the hood has peeling clear coat but most of it is gone and it has a lot of chips on it where the clear,base and primer have gone and there’s small surface rust in those little spots. Should I sand the entire hood back to metal and build the layers back up or fill it in with bondo and paint the base and clear over that?
You can strip it but that's a lot. Fastest way is to DA sand it so that nothing is loose with like 120. Then bury it with Feather Fill and block sand by hand or DA. You'll probably have a few spots that didn't block out that you'll fill with glazing putty (2K). Prime it again with your usual primer surfacer, block, prime, finish sand, paint. Hope that makes sense. Here's a video on that Feather Fill stuff - it's thick and a real time saver. czcams.com/video/caWJYozggww/video.html Let me know what you end up doing with it.
Class is in session…Take notes boys and girls!!!
Thanks UPK - I appreciate your positive comments since day one. Gotta get down there and swing by your place - that's a goal of mine :)
@@LakesideAutobody I definitely look forward to finally getting to meet you in person and talk some trade talk Jerry!
Question if you wouldn’t mind answering. I stripped my road runner hood to metal did the body work than I put two coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of 2k primer on it. Now I’ve block sanded it and now I can see a couple low spots. So the questions are do I sand back to the metal to put filler down in the low spots and if I do sand down to the metal in those spots do I have to epoxy prime again or just 2k prime those spots. Thanks for the help and appreciate all the help I get from your videos.
You can put filler over the top of that primer if needed or use Evercoat 2K poly glazing putty if you have the $. I use old fashioned red lacquer putty - very sparingly though. You also can put filler over bare metal - no worries at all. Let me know if you have any other ?s - Jerry
Great thanks for the info I’ll have to see if I can find that poly glazing putty in tomorrow and give a whirl thanks for the help. Keep up the great videos
Hi Jerry ! Have you worked on any AMC Eagles.? Great seeing you.
Do you mean ones that rolled down cliffs end over end or were hit head on at 55? Great seeing you to my friend.
You take a lot of stress out of using filler. It makes my life easier. Now if I could only stop mixing to much hardener so I can have more time to work it.
😁👍
🤟🧐 I will build mold a car out of body filler. Oh wait I already did my bug just to test it out . I sold the bug . 6 years ago . I talk to the owner he said everything cool . Just some cracks on the doors by the Strikers .keep up the good videos. I been doing this a a hobby for 16 years. You just really explain it right on
I appreciate the support H Auto B - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody 😎👍
Question: im painting my truck and dont have shop space to keep it in or have the time to do everything in one shot. Im working on my hood with a few shallow dents and a ton of rock chips that are just specks but with rust starting. The paint and clear was in great shape otherwise. Im wondering if it makes sense that i ground out all the chips to bare metal, sand the whole thing with 80 grit, epoxy prime to seal and prevent rust, do my filler, then epoxy again until i can do a high build primer, block and paint. Can i do the primer and block it and have it be in contact with moisture while i finish the rest and then paint? Its hard to find advice for people without the time and shop space to do a painting project properly start to finish. Thanks!
I leave stuff outside in primer all the time. Sometimes for months without and issue. Park it in a spot in which it can dry out easily - i.e. not in the shade, etc. I do check it for rust though real quick by sanding off a little bit to see what it looks like under the primer when continuing. The left fender on this truck was left outside in lacquer primer for a year or two before block sanding, finish sanding and painting - no issues. czcams.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/video.html Jerry
@Lakeside Autobody thank you! I dont know how i missed that video, ive been watching for well over a year at this point trying to watch as many videos as possible. Theres no replacement for experience, but im trying my hardest to absorb as much info from your videos to have the best possible outcome. Body work seems like learning english, easy to learn enough to get by but hard to master. Thanks for all your videos.
@@Ja3cques You're welcome Inline6. Just keep at it and have fun :)
Is adding a fiberglass resin advisable? I’ve seen CZcams videos showing 10% resin additive helping to make the fill creamy, much easier to spread and less prone to pinholes.
It's OK to do but really not necessary. Get some metal spreaders to be able to press harder and get a nice tight, clean layer of filler - (Coster Steel Auto Body Spreaders, 3 Steel Spreaders - 4") Use glazing putty for any tiny imperfections - Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty works fine if used sparingly.
Thx Jerry. Have you ever had the problem of body filler bleed through?? Like where ever the body filler or two part putty is , its like the body filler soaked up all the primer and you can see where the body fill or putty was applied. What causes that? Any idea
I think that's what folks refer to as shrinkage and yes everybody runs into that. The key is making sure your filler is straight and finished w/ 80 or finer so that you are not trying to bury your body work with primer to make up for shoddy body work. A few nice coats of good quality automotive primer surfacer should be all you need - then block sand prime again and finish sand. Use 2k urethane or polyester primer over your bodywork if it continues. Sealer helps too. You can't primer over heavy sand scratches or sub par surfaces - they'll end up showing through. Also remember if you do have a bit of bleed through showing, you can always let it cure, wet sand the clear and buff - that should take care of any little bit you may have. Let me know it this helps out a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody if you could get into sealers more that would be good. I'm rattle can over here and the only thing I've got to use is the duplicolor lacquer sealer. It seems to be very effective and has taken away any bleed through or outlines. My only concern the durability and the lacquer being thrown in the mix of the all other paint types. I dont think it's as durable as professional sealers but it seems to do it's job.
Also the duplicolor "sandable" primer, not the filler version, is remarkably hard and smooth for what it is.
I understand part of the issues is using lower quality primers. I've got some spraymax 2k in a can primer and epoxy but neither are good for a sealer because they're thick. I wish someone would come out with a thin 2k epoxy sealer. Spray max!. I know thinning epoxies is the best sealer but I don't mix yet.
@@jeremyr7147 I got you. Well... you going to have to find yourself a compressor and spray gun. Once you have a spray gun you're good :)
All day long... Body filler applied the right way works every time. Just like lug nuts 😅
Which is the best filler for diy er? Bondo or Evercoat? or other brands?
All brands are very similar - don't need to spend a lot of $. I use 21/gal filler by Auto Body Master :)
On larger repairs, such as this one or larger, I find it difficult to get enough filler on there. It's not because I don't want to, but because the filler has a tendency to want to pull out of the deeper areas as your spreading it. Whats the trick to that? I've even tried using a 10 or 12 inch drywall trowel to span the entire are, but the bondo wants to pull out of the lower areas.
Thinner bondo, less hardener. If you dealing with deep stuff more than recommended depth then you may need a bed coat to bring the holes to a reasonable level.
@@jeremyr7147 I'd bang it out of it was that deep... how do you thin the bondo? Or do you just use some special bondo. It just seems to stick to the spreader so that's why it pulls it out.
Maybe the end of this video where the filler is being spread will help - I put it on pretty thick there - czcams.com/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/video.html Start watching at 58 minutes and 18 seconds in :)
@@LakesideAutobody That was Impressive! Most guys would just weld in a new section for something that crunched. What you did there is sculpture. You made a shape where there was none. But, the bondo did pull out of those deeper sectons on that first coat, it's just the nature of bondo, it's bubble gummy. You got it mostly there on that first coat, then you gotta go back and bridge the low spots with another coat. It's almost impossible to get enough on there to get it in one coat. there's no other way to do it, unless its a minor dent.
@@marcellemay7721 You're right on about getting it in one coat but if you get it really close with the first coat, it makes life a bit easier on the next coat or touch ups :)
Question. If you use filler and then use putty, can you switch back to filler? I keep sanding & getting high spots- 1st timer here.
If you are talking 2k or putty that you mix that is polyester it's OK but not really a great practice. If you get high spots, smack those guys down and be done with them. Like an old man told me once and really helped, "Hit it low and fill it with dough!" - then spread your filler again over the entire area - not just the low spots. You'll have better luck that way. Filler is cheap no big deal wasting a bit - only buy filler that's under 25/gal. When you think you have it, the best primer surfacer for sub par body work is feather fill - see this video - czcams.com/video/caWJYozggww/video.html After you block sand your primer (any type that you use) you can put filler over the primer if needed but like I said in the vid, you sort of want to get away from that practice as you get better and better.
@@LakesideAutobody I got the blue/green 3m glazing putty in the white tube and the feather fill body filler.
Everything else is smooth except for 3 small high spots - each is about the size of a half dollar. And it’s only in one spot, the other work I did on the other dents came out fine. Thanks so much for the videos, they’re very informative.
@@MizTori You're welcome - keep me posted on how everything turns out - you can post pictures to the link under the "about tab" called "Your Projects"
Question...filler over bare metal or over primer or existing ruffed up paint?
You can put it over all three but most of the time I'm putting it over bare metal - here's 2 good videos on that topic so you feel comfortable doing all three - czcams.com/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/video.html & czcams.com/video/koMw6-auoIs/video.html
Every time I put on the bondo on , I paint it out there about couple weeks after it bubbles , do u know why
What are you putting filler over?
Everyone has their idea of best way, not saying mine is better, just different. I use a Dynatron fiberglass filler over any weld as this seals pin holes in the weld. Keeping water from the front is obvious but from behind, water intrusion will shorten the life of the repair. Nice job sanding the area and welding a patch. But, 36 grit to smooth the fiberglass will allow a tooth for filler. Not all fillers are equal but some have corrosion inhibitors that help seal the area. Use the filler of your choice, but after cleaned with wax & grease or just isopropyl on a lint free towel, please push a thin coat first to fill the pores on the metal, sand scratches from grinder, sander or pits in the metal, push hard and thin with a high angle. Get it in there. Now with good contact, start your build coat if your metal is hammer & dolly into place. Check with a straight edge or just a paint stick. The build coat should help get you near perfect. Spray an epoxy with or without a DTM rating. It seals the repair from moisture, either wet sanding or water after repair. Use a high build and get two or three wet on wet coats using finer sandpaper like 80g, then 180g. Using a guide coat will help a bunch. You can use a powder but a simple flat black will help show you low spots. An epoxy of a different color with help tell you when to stop blocking. If metal shows thru, spray an epoxy to cover the area or it needed, the entire patch. High build, wait to let dry & shrink, then guide coat, repeat. Eastwood has single use cans with hardener injected from the bottom. Allow to cure and shrink as that will change the finish once painted. Solid colors may be a hardened color but most are not. Clear coat is not required unless it is metallic. The color and clear both, should contain "UV" inhibitors. Paint, Epoxy, Welding, Compressor and spray guns are not cheap plus you need protection from chemicals on skin and lungs!
Best of luck!
Thanks for you input and sharing your method Dean - sounds like a good quality approach. Have a great weekend my friend :)
Jerry, do you ever use "speciality" types of Bondo such as Bondo Glass?
I don't use it often, but for an extra piece of mind it wouldn't hurt to use dura-glass or bondo glass as it is water proof.
James bondo license to fill
I like it. I'll get some t's that say that. Did you come up with that?
What grit do you sand the filler to before priming?
80 grit
From 0:32-1:44 you just described my bodywork style perfectly, however I can not duplicate your method here, for some reason on a hot Florida summer day the filler will already be starting to dry up and harden before you even get done mixing it, no joke, if you use a tiny bit then it won't harden properly and have issues but if you use just enough for the filler to harden properly it will dry too fast, I have tried everything from different brands and mix ratios, in the winter you get a bit more work time but to cover a large area like a quarter panel in 1 shot is basically impossible. I've gotten to the point where I don't care for bodywork anymore and as long as it looks ok for across the parking lot that's good enough doing bodywork on a project car these days isn't worth it anymore, the cost of materials is soo high that even if you do all the labor your self it's super easy to drop several grand on a "cheap" paint job even if you use the bottom off the barrel materials like nason, that's the main reason why the "as found" or "rat-rod" or "barn find" look is considered acceptable these days people are tired of wasting so much time, money, and energy on a paint job that in most cases won't last very long or never look quite right.
I used to work in a body shop (large metal building) it got like 100 degrees in there in the summer - guys would shave their heads for the summer :) You'd still use the same process. Mix the filler with much less hardener, sit right next to the filler and wait right there till its ready to cheese grate, hit it with the grater and you're good - you can now walk away and go get a cold can of pop/soda. It doesn't matter how hard it gets now - you got it nearly perfect with the Stanley. Keep at it my friend - don't give up - let me know if you try again and ask questions as you go :)
@@LakesideAutobody I really do appreciate that you are trying to help but I do not posses the skills or materials to do a nice paint job or prep job and I have just accepted that. The paint and body projects I do are all done outside and sprayed under a lean-to so no matter what the job is going to look like garbage at the end of the day, my method of doing body work is to pick a panel, spent 1 weekend on it, start Friday and no matter how bad it looks get primer on it by Saturday and spray on Sunday no matter how much trash, dings, bugs, dents and waves are in the panel. I have to do it that way because the vehicles stay outside and it rains basically atleast once a week so if a panel comes off or gets stripped it has to be done ASAP or the rain will come and mess everything up also the humidity here is so bad that of sand something to bare metal, even if it's in a garage, there will be a light layer of surface rust on it in the morning. And the real problem with bodywork projects these days is the cost of everything is ridiculously high, you can easily burn up $200 in sand paper just body working 1 panel if your slow and have to keep going over everything like I do and paint is crazy money these days, so far I have only done the hood, 1 door, tail gate, and wiper cowl on my recent truck project and have easily used up over $1,000 in materials just to get that far the local paint shop wants $350 for 1/2 gallon of blue base coat of some bottom of the shelf paint, with prices like that it's hard to justify spending the money when it's just being done to a beat up old rusty pick up that stays out side, granted if it lived in a climate controlled garage I could spend the time and money and Bondo over a bunch of the rust and throw nice paint on it and have it look good for a long time but shady bodywork won't hold up outside, I know from experience lol.
@@briang4470 I get it. You're right about the high costs. It's out of control really. Recently I went to the paint store for a gallon of Ford paint I think it was called fire red pearl - anyway the guy said, "Are you sure you want me to mix this up? - It's $450 just for the paint" The hardener was another 30-40 plus reducer - crazy. Nice talking to you Brian - have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody if you think that's bad when I was at the paint shop, another guy walked in and asked the guy at the counter for 1/2 a pint of pearl additive as he reached into his wallet and grabbed a $50 bill and the guy at the counter said "no, that's $126" the guy almost had a heart attack and this was back in 2019 before things went completely crazy and everything keeps going up and up, anyway s sorry for the rambling, have a nice weekend
What about humidity levels? Is it ok to apply bondo while it rains, not exposed to the rain itself but exposed to the damp air.
Yes - it's fine. Otherwise body shops - non of them have air conditioning or dehumidifiers BTW - would have to quit for the day. Good question G PC 😊
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks a lot for the quick answer and also for being so generous with your knowledge!
@@gpc1091 You're welcome my friend - always feel free to ask ?s - Jerry
Did this filler need to be mixed? I'm going to buy atleast a gallon of filler. Is this the best one for a classic car?
Yes the filler does get mixed. Whatever brand of lightweight body filler your local parts store carries will work the same. If you're restoring a classic car, I recommend getting a tube of glazing/finishing putty as well. That glazing step in between filler and primer will make all the difference when it comes to pinholes and sand scratches swelling through the final paint job.
Filler is a two-part system...the filler itself and the hardener. As soon as you mix the hardener into the filler a chemical process begins that causes the filler to harden (just like a 2-part epoxy but a lot faster). Only mix filler in small quantities...you'll only have 5 minutes or so of working time with it. Unless you're doing the whole car a gallon is a lot of filler...if you're just fixing small-ish sections think about getting a quart instead.
Bondo is bad when used wrong, I just off a huge chunk of body filler that was the thickness of a flip flop and the length of the nose of the car. Filler needs to be 1/8" at most.
It can be thicker if you know what you're doing
Is it ok to use body filler or finger glass filler on a roof about the size of a baseball?
Absolutely - it's done all the time :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you Jerry. Should I lay down some short strand fiberglass filler first or just go directly to regular body filler. I use Rage Gold.
@@bobgreen3116 I'd just go straight to the regular body filler Bob - have a good weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much.Keep please keep making these great videos and the awesome guitar work in the beginning.
@@bobgreen3116 You're very welcome Bob - I enjoy your comments. I'll keep them coming :)
Used the right way(minimally)is good.
Using it like Boyd's Hot Rods....BAD!!
All them show cars are all skimmed with filler to sharpen body lines and fill imperfections gaurenteed
You're right. Very few show cars have NO filler. Even if they are using thick primer surfacers like feather fill - that's still filler - but worse than just using regular filler.
So this week I learned that short chop bondo glass needs way more Plastic Honey than regular bondo.
Why? Was the bondo glass dry in the can or old?
I paid a guy at one of those high end classic car bodyshops lots of money to fix my car and now the bondo is cracking and the paint is failing...I should have just went to Maaco.
You probably should have. It really depends on the shop, the guy that's doing the job and their methods. One tiny thing done wrong and you'll have problems. Thanks for the story though - it's a good lesson for others to hear. Have a good week Jerry :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too. thanks for the videos. I'm restoring an MG and I've been watching these. I'd like to repaint it myself but not sure if that is a good idea. I most worried about the fumes. I'm definitely not taking it to that guy.
@@jerryp2433 Are you worried about the fumes because of the neighbors or health reasons. Here's a good mask for painting - www.ebay.com/itm/353263451419 Just make sure you get a new one every now and then - they don't work well if you never change them out :)
Dude where's your Dura Blocks???? i have not used a cheesegrater in many years i been doing this 40 yrs this year
A lot of people still do use a cheese grater, and nothing wrong with it. Who cares about dura blocks?
With respect, if your are not using a cheese grater you will be a lot slower. When you work commission pay you have to be fast and nothing is faster than a cheese grater and a bondo hog - nothing :) BTW - wood, straight blocks are the best for large flat areas. Once you get used to them, that's all you'll ever want to use - dura blocks flex just a bit.
@@LakesideAutobody my boss won't do commission too many hack jobs before i got here i'm hourly and still do over a grand a week here love my dura blocks not many panels are laser flat anymore i have old school blocks ect also
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Watch any Chip Foose video and body filler is used on 100% of his builds.
Thanks for the support Michael - have a good week :)
Total B/S!!!
Here's what you could be driving if you follow these methods - czcams.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/video.html
No bobadingo, it is not
@@jonathanyates5198 Thanks for the support Jonathan :)