Troubleshooting a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 liter V6 code P0306 cyl #6 misfire
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- čas přidán 10. 11. 2020
- Troubleshooting tips for a P0306 error code on a 1999 Ford Ranger with a 3.0 liter V6.
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I'm also a Chevy guy and have a 98 ford ranger 3.0 with cylinder misfire constant did all of these checks plus compression, did this end up being an injector?
Hi there. Yes it did. There is a link to that job in the comments above.
Hey can u help me dude 😎 I have 03 ford ranger 3.0 what's the firing order I'm confused on where the spark plugs wires go I see a lot of images but still dunno where they go
Checking Mr Google, it looks like the same for my engine. Cyls are numbered from front left back1,2,3, then front right going back 4,5,6. The firing order is 1,4,2,5,3,6. The pics they show are the engine on the right, and the coil on the left. Match the wires to the coil. The left bank matches the coil, but the right bank is jumbled. The image on the right "shows" the fan at front. Not a great pic until you figure out what's what. I checked to see if there were different 3 liter engines for the 03 Ranger but it looks like only the flex fuel one. This should be the correct info.
@@teammudshark6894 I'm not sure if mine is flexfuel
@@Mylotheblacknwhitecat 8th digit in VIN code U. It's the only one I found. If yours is not, look it up as 2003 Ford Ranger engine code _____. Enter your code. The web should bring up whatever it is. Mine actually has a green leaf or something emblem on the tailgate I think that says "flexfuel". Then look up the firing order for that.
@@teammudshark6894 yeah mins u 3.0 I'm just not sure as where my spark plugs wires go still confused
Did you ever figure out this issue? I got the same thing going on, on my ranger
Sorry, I'm not sure if I uploaded the rest of the procedure individually yet or not. I will eventually make 1 long video of the entire procedure, if I haven't yet. In this case, I was correct in my assumption. The lean running code in conjunction with the cyl misfire pointed toward a fuel injector issue. Because it's just a better idea to replace system components as a set, for example all spark plugs together, both sides of your brakes at the same time, and because they are so inexpensive, and the same amount of work is required to get access to the fuel injectors, I replaced them as a set with factory re-maned injectors. I strongly recommend only buying the OEM, (original equipment manufacturer), parts, same as came with the vehicle. Make sure the picture you see, for instance on ebay, is the actual part you will receive and that it matches what you have exactly. If you can pull one 1st to get a good look is best. If not, at least make sure what you can see matches in color. I strongly suggest avoiding aftermarket parts. They will say something about "replaces" the PN you are looking for. The part number should be on your original part. Personally I try to stick with U.S. sellers as they are more likely to have the correct parts. Chinese/Hong Kong sellers will have knockoffs that might not fit. I have experienced this myself. Sometimes it is difficult to tell as they will be described as "based in the U.S.". Only when you get a confirmation of payment to a name made up of a dozen Chinese characters will you know. I don't mean any disrespect, it's just OEM is better than the copies in 99% of the cases. The other steps to ck before deciding on the injector replacement is a compression check, and a spark plug lead swap to make sure the problem is not a dead cyl., a plug or a plug lead problem. If you have high mileage it's certainly only going to improve your performance if you change the injectors even if that's not your problem but it's better to only address the actual problem. A good way to treat a high mileage vehicle is to put yourself in a known situation. If you replace the plugs and plug wires, you know their condition and might eliminate a problem before it even occurs. Sorry, I'm starting to preach. Procedures are on youtube for doing the tests. Either I have them on my channel or someone else does. Thanks, and happy hunting.
@@teammudshark6894 appreciate your wisdom.
Sorry I missed this comment. I don't know what happened with this video. I think I uploaded the entire one since. It was supposed to go through the entire procedure. I'll see if I can link it. All roads led to a fuel injector issue. I replaced all of them because it's the right thing to do and they were cheap. Might as well put yourself in a known situation as far as the injectors go.
What was I supposed to learn from that?
1st, thanks for the comment. 2nd, since you asked... I added the link in the comments for a more complete video. I'm not sure how I put this one up as it is very short. The basic concept here is to lead you down the path to figure out what is causing the error code and making your vehicle not run properly. A code checker is best, but you can actually do a lot of this in the parking lot of an auto parts store and they will ck the codes for you for FREE. Since the degree of sophistication in these models is not very great, the codes simply point you in the direction of which system is not functioning properly. Many of the codes are actually telling you which sensor is malfunctioning, and not that there is an actual problem with the engine. It is usually a good 1st step to replace whatever sensor is issuing the code, except for the combustion chamber status ones. Any possible ignition problems should begin with determining how old are the components? Are the spark plugs and/or plug wires 10 years old/ 50,000 miles on them? You should always try to put yourself in a know situation. Thanks Walter, Rivair Flying Service, Tulsa, Ok for sending me down the right path. Verify what is working properly. That what troubleshooting is for. Plugs old, replace them. Now you (probably) know they are new. Same with the wires. For old parts, it's a win-win. Swapping parts around on the engine when you know one is working is a method to figuring out what's bad. That, is what this video is intended to assist you with. I'm sorry if it did not. I recommend you watch other videos on the subject, CZcams is full of great info from different perspectives, especially if you are trying to figure this out yourself. Even if you are taking it to a shop, you can at least gain some insight into what they might tell you. And yes, they will most likely recommend replacing old parts if they determine yours are old, worn, or might be giving you intermittent problems. In this, a small investment might save you big trouble down the line. Batteries, starters, and brakes are three items not to be trifled with. When they begin giving you indications that all is not well, don't wait til they fail, or you might end up on the side of the road, or worse thinking to yourself: Hmmm, maybe I should have taken care of that when it was convenient. Sorry for the manifesto, but you did ask. Good luck.
Ok. This is way too short. I think the whole procedure is in this video. czcams.com/video/WnG7KGsCEAY/video.html
Dr
3.0 is another ford junk engine, as bad as the triton 3 valves
I got to admit. I'm not a Ford guy. Ok, I think I mention that in every Ford video I do. I've gotten used to them once I calmed down and let their weirdness flow through me. Who would build a vehicle that uses SAE and Metric hardware right net to each other? Make up ur damn mind. One or the other. The 4.6 liter Triton V8 was another nightmare til I came to terms with it. I'm old school. Mechanical points. carburetors, manual gearboxes, yep that's what the left foot is used for, things were much simpler then. I have to admit, engines do not fail mechanically as much anymore. Now it's just find out what sensor shows up on the scan and replace that sensor. Trying to figure out why it was sensing something was a waste of time. In my case it has always simply been a bad sensor. They should just tell you that.
I am a Ford guy an the 3.0L is the junkest motor that I have ever fucked with I have 2000 ranger 2 wheel drive done replaced motor 280,000 it was ticking as fast as it would go I dove it to work 200 miles a day wide open which was only 86 miles a hour it's governed because of harmonic balancer problem with Ford so they didn't want motor to blow up so that's were that came from got anther motor with 15000 on it now its around 181000 its ticking at start up wtf I've done replace everything on the motor 3 or 4 times some more thank God life time parts but a can change a part like all. It will stop ticking shit like that
This guy blah blah blah