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I really appreciate your video.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Thanks. I appreciate it.

Thanks. I appreciate it.

Google image search "'2003 Ranger 3.0 firing order" or whatever year your truck is. Works with any vehicle, shows you the cylinder locations. Cylinder 1 side is Bank 1

That's a good tip. Especially if you don't like kneeling down and bending over the toilet while you work on it. I may actually try that the next time a spring breaks in the cartridge. Thanks, useful tips are a great benefit of youtube as a forum for sharing ideas.

Thanks. Sometimes it's the little things that frustrate us the most. CZcams has turned out to be The go to for quick information on all kinds of things. I'm trying to do my part to help keep these old beasts on the road.

Thanks for the comment. I'm just trying to do my part to help keep these old workhorses going. Not as many as F150s, but apparently there are a lot of Rangers still on the job.

They're pretty much standard across most manufacturers. The "plugs" are like little plastic Christmas trees. The branches stick out and grab the edges of the holes in the metal door panels when they are pushed in. To remove them you need to slide something along the edge of the outer panel to pry it out a little bit enough for you to get your fingers in there. Once you can get a hold of the edge of the panel you give it a good pull out. Sometimes the plugs stay in the door. To re-install you should pull the plugs out of the door panel and slide them into their slot in the outer door panel. Sometimes the slots or the plugs break but usually you can pull the outer door panels many times without any issues. To re-install, you need to make sure the upper edge of the panel is down into the window slot so when you lower the panel, the plugs will align with the holes in the inner door panel. You then just push them into the holes and they will grab. You can tell if you have the outer door panel down into the window slot far enough when the plugs align. If they don't then the panel needs to go farther down. You usually need to sort of bend the top of the panel out toward the window to get it to fit down into the slot. I push the panel against the window slot and while holding the top, sort of bend it out. It's easier if you tilt the panel up at the back a little bit and get the front edge started 1st. Then you push it down working from the front back to lower it level. The check is that the plugs will align with the holes. Try to get all the plugs started before pushing the panel in so you can move it around a bit. Once everything is lined up, push the panel in all around the edges. You will here a "zip" sound as the plugs lock in. The harder you push, the tighter they will hold. Thanks for the comment, it may help someone else.

Wow. That is an interesting question. 1st off, I am not a certified Ford mechanic so I might not be the best one to answer that. However, off the top of my head I would say in general whatever configuration it was is before, should be the same now. Certainly, there should be no loose vacuum lines laying around. I find that disturbing that a shop/mechanic would release a job with any hoses simply laying there. Is there vacuum at that hose? if so than absolutely no, it should not be un-connected. That would be a big vacuum leak. I do recall that somewhere in the video I believe, I tried to install the rail backwards so that the part that the hose attaches to was in the right rear instead of the left front, but I don't recall the exact details. Take a look for that. I'm not sure it will even go in that way. If I get a chance, I'll watch it myself and see if I can check that.

Unfortunately, my chain failed, I think. When it got to that point I had to give up on my dear Maxine. It broke my heart, but I was having to move and I did not know where I would be able to take her and store her, and work on her any more. I ran out of time and money at the same time. I had had her towed to a dealer to have a replacement computer flashed to match my VIN, and they informed my that the chain had jumped. The engine is an interference fit, so chances are the pistons hit the valves and probably bent them. I didn't have the time to continue on. I would have liked to pull the chain, and the heads to see what damage there was before giving up but I just couldn't. That is the big issue here. If you are not replacing it as a preventative measure, and it has failed in some manner, you may have big trouble. So no. I did not get that far. As such, I do not know how difficult it is or if you can do it in the car. Check youtube. I'm sure somebody out there has something on it. Thanks and good luck.

Thanks for the reminder. I have a lot more footage of my working on this thing. I just uploaded the 1st of what will be several misc. videos from my experience trying to get this thing on the road, here: czcams.com/video/IFkeM_BHy2I/video.html . I will try to upload the rest as soon as I can. My suggestion is to watch everything I post on the scooter. There might be something of interest as I go around it. The solenoid is shown in part of this video. The rubber boot actually holds a spare fuse for use in the fuse holder that is in the right side foot well. It's been a while since I worked on it. I hope to get to it soon though I have a stack of riding mowers, generators, and pressure washers to fix also. Most of the vids will be kind of stumbling around as I figure it out. Hopefully, there will be stuff that anyone who has one of these can use. I found there to be very little out there. Thanks and good luck.

Thanks so much. Sometimes the school of hard knocks yields results.

Cool. Glad to hear it. Anytime I figure out something like this, I'm sure there are others faced with the same issue. It feels to good to be of help. Thanks.

I just figure if I can pull this kind of thing off, so can anybody else. I'm a scavenger, resurrect-or, refurbish-er, giver of 2nd chances. I hate waste. Blessing, curse, who knows? I think even if I get to a place where I could afford whatever I want, I'll still be a treasure hunter. I used to call myself Daniel the Dumpster Diver. "There's treasure in them cans". More and more these days, newer means crappier. I prefer the older, well built stuff. After all, some things get better with age. If and/or when the shit hits the fan, it's those who can repair what's left who will RULE THE WORLD. LOL. Get by at least. Thanks for the comment.

It's not a big deal to pull it and give yourself more room. Every time I've squeezed in to work against a radiator I think I've banged into it and bent the fins. I like the room without worrying about it. I haven't tried that but no doubt it can be done. Thanks for the comment, someone out there might want to do it that way. It's good to know that it's possible. Comments are one of the most valuable resources this forum has to offer. Tips from those who are actually doing the work can be the difference between success and failure or a simple repair vs a financial disaster. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

@@teammudshark6894 I prefer to have the extra room as well 👍🏽

Great. Glad to hear it. Sometimes you just got to step back and take a calm look at things. The primary rule in fixing things is to know how it works. In my case, I actually have not yet got my eyes on the mechanism that was causing this. It sounds like you have. I still plan to but I haven't had the inner door panel off since. I will be inside the door soon as I have to replace my smashed RH side mirror and that requires getting in there. I'll look at the RH side 1st and see just what's what and get at the LH one as soon as practical. Thanks for the comments. Those can be just as valuable to others watching the videos. These forums are a great resource for those trying to keep these old beasts in operation. I'm getting too old to deal with the massive influx of electronics and other complicated systems that require a degree in computer operating technology just so you can drive to work. Sometimes I think a beat up old '65 Vette with a carburetor and maybe electronic ignition will do just fine. Those were some good times. Mind you, engines only lasted about 100K miles but everyone in my circle had at least 1 pair of heads off and to the local machine shop which many auto parts houses had in the back. Swapping engines, or short blocks, heads, cams, intake manifolds, 4 barrel carbs, headers, dual exhausts, etc... just a normal day in the life of a Motorhead High Schooler. Man, nostalgia is great. Sorry, got a bit distracted. Thanks again.

Technically that's true. I do get paid for this nonsense. Thanks.

In this case, I don't own this one. Not sure of it's history other to say it sat around for years. It actually looked much worse. I didn't start the video til after I had already cleaned it a bit. I see a machine like this that's been neglected, like many of these are like a lost puppy. I want to help them back to health. I hope that when the machines take over, they will consider me a friend and not snuff me out like all the other meat bags.😁

@@teammudshark6894 lmbo, too funny. The way society got us relying on these computers for almost everything, you betta believe I'm gonna take care of my electronics.

It's all to isolate where the issue is, Does the problem follow the plug/wire or does it stay with the cyl no matter what. Unless there's a major compression issue, process of elimination. Since the cost is so low, replacing the injectors can only help, especially with high mileage. The first thing I do when I get a "new" vehicle to work on is do a major tune up. Then you know that with sight exception ( a rare bad new plug for instance ) the plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new. Replacing the injectors is just one step up. If there is an unknown issue with the engine, sometimes that will take care of it without any troubleshooting required at all. That's what is referred to as "putting yourself in a known situation". You don't have to wonder about the condition of the ignition or the fuel injectors. Plug wires generally come with a lifetime warranty. I replace them every 2nd tune up just because. I tend to keep vehicles a long time so I have replaced starters, water pumps, radiators, alternators, and shocks under warranty. You just to remember to make a copy of the receipt and keep it so they can read the bar-code years later. The ink on those receipts fade out pretty fast. I think I sort of got of track ish. Thanks and good luck.

Ok. So this is what made sense to me. Of course, by switching plug wire 6 from cyl 6 to cyl 5, your gonna get a timing code on top of the misfire code. However, the misfire code will switch over to cyl 5 if there is a problem with wire 6. If there were a problem with the spark plug the code would stay on cyl 6 cus both wire 6 and spark plug 5 would be working when you switch the wire over from 6 to 5. If the problem is with the wire, you can't really know if it's the wire or the coil for a certain cylinder so this is when you have to switch cyl 6 wire to cyl 5 from the coil pack or distributor. Is This correct? Hence, isolating the problem. tia.

Yeah, back at cha. I like it. Pretty much gives you a wide open area of subject matter. Thanks, I think.

Yes sir. Only a private pilot, SEL, so far. I see my biggest possible mistake, cause u never know, was not pursuing a career as a pilot. I got my pilot's license 1st while at A & P school but then was more interested in getting back home than continuing to fly. Have to admit I had a fun career as a mechanic mostly because for most of it I had access to other people's airplanes. Got a couple of hours in helicopters as well but I think I would have had much more fun having the money that comes with being an airline pilot. Probably would have my own airplane and the ability to pay for it. At present the airlines are hurting for pilots. Many have feeder programs to fast track your entry to the airline. If I was a young pilot now, I would definitely do whatever I could to get into one of those programs. Every time I see an airliner fly over me I feel like they're taunting me. You usually don't get a 2nd chance at making decisions when you first start out. There's no going back though. I hope to get back in the air soon. it's been over 20 years since I flew as PIC. With some luck, the sooner the better. It's funny, I even crave flying a C150. the little birds are a lot of fun. Things are a lot different now. Gotta think much safer with ADS B. VFR used to be simply see and avoid. Had only a few close encounters, but those tend to wake you up fast. Thanks for the comment. I only managed to get a couple of hours in a J3 for tail dragger time. It was only $16/hr wet at the time. So many missed opportunities...