Modding 'The Getaway' Pinball Machine!
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2018
- CORRECTION at 00:11:30 : Always switch the HOT wire, never the NEUTRAL.
Time to take a field trip to the local pinball arcade! Jeremy and Sean take Bits to Atoms on location to modify The Getaway: High Speed II pinball machine to work with a real stop light. And to do that, they have to dive inside the machine to see how it works.
Shot and edited by Gunther Kirsch
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Ryan Kiser
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Thanks for watching! - Věda a technologie
Oh how you two brought back some memories for me...
I actually worked at Williams\Bally between '92-'94 as a QA tester. The Getaway was one of the lines I worked on. I so loved that particular game.
I have the game and I have done a lot on my machine.
Every time I add a mod or first get a machine I over haul it.
And live stream it.
I have a playlist of pins I have gotten and given some TLC to.
And why is there just a sticker that says QA Tester #74?
Why they not credit the tester of these machines?
This is exactly how ALL of my projects turn out. In the beginning I say to myself “ It will be so easy, no worries”...by the end I’m ready to toss it off a cliff. Cheers for hanging in there.
Not trying to be Captain Safety here but there is some dangerously incorrect information at 11:30 or so. When Jeremy says it doesn't matter what side is switched when they are attaching the relays to the stop light for the first time, they should be attaching them through the HOT side (black wires) because the power comes from there. The neutral side (white) is technically only connected to ground. While this does give the end result that they are looking for, it means the lightbulbs ALWAYS have power coming into them and they are waiting to find a path to ground to turn on. If you were to touch the metal part of the bulb, or likely any part of the metal housing of the stop light, even when the light is not lit, it would likely shock you as the hot wire tries to find a path to ground. This is wrong at best and dangerous at worst. Not great to advertise this misinformation publicly.
took me a while to understand what you're saying. That in a simple circuit, the switch should be on the live side, not the neutral side. Yes i agree, but i *think* the guy was trying to ask if there's an input and output in the relay itself, which a google suggests "some" are bi directional.
Well, Sean specifically asks about "positive and negative or Neutral" which I'm guessing is him asking about the hot side vs the neutral side of the power coming in, not asking about the relay. The only way a 120v (or up to 480v) AC relay could be messed up would be applying the AC line voltage to the signal side of the relay (which uses the much less power) if it was looking for a low level DC input. Some relays can use AC power for the signal input as well, but it's only a small amp load, not switched through a heavy draw like an old incandescent bulb.
This isn't just "Captain Safety" stuff. This is against NEC electrical code. This is a fire safety issue as well as a health safety issue. If the pinball place burns down because they wired contrary to code, the insurance company can deny the claim, leaving the owner pretty screwed.
I was going to say that too... but I didn't want to seem too "doom and gloom". But you're right. I think most people don't understand that there is a reason why you hire a professional electrician anytime you touch the 120v power in your house or business, and it's not just because they know more than you; it's mostly a liability that they undertake for you.
"Break the Black", is what i was taught.
The "matrix glitching" happened because the charged capacitors discharged themselves through the other rows/columns when not driven. When interacting with a matrix you need to use diodes in order to not feed back into it. On more complex systems it could even damage stuff - think 24V going into a 5V line.
Not sure if just the diode before the resistor would fix the flickering, but might've been worth a try.
The matrix is pulsed at 60Hz but the SSR also turns on 60Hz AC. If those pulses happen near the zero-cross voltage the lights wold barely turn on.
Lots of points to consider, which is why something that seemed simple took days to finish.
i know I'm kinda randomly asking but do anyone know a good site to stream new tv shows online ?
@Jesse Kingston Flixportal
@Grayson Ibrahim thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service =) I appreciate it!!
@Jesse Kingston Happy to help :)
Lol, all that work to not see someone activate the red light.
This was awesome, and a great demonstration of the true obsessiveness of us pinball fanatics!
Loving this series! Some of my favourite content on Tested :)
I expected them to create a pass-through cable rather than solder on to the light board in the machine. Slightly more challenging, but leaves the machine intact.
phrebh yeah. A connector where the light passed through would have been the perfect place to pull the signal from.
Seriously! All the safety stuff aside, just hijack a jumper between the molex connectors for the light and it’s far easier and less permanent!
Now that you are using an Arduino, you might as well go all out and add a second Arduino. Take it all apart, put the solid state relays INSIDE of the stop lights with proper fusing, so that you are not running line voltage wires along the floor which is really dangerous. Connect the relays to Arduino #1. Then, open the pinball machine and mount the Arduino #2 inside of it, connected to the lighting matrix. Finally, run a low voltage serial cable from Arduino #1 to Arduino #2. Now the states of the lights can be detected inside of the pinball machine and transmitted to the stoplight, where the solid state relays are controlled. No more dangerous line voltage wires all over the place, no project box to hang off of the side of the machine, and you can use simple CAT5 cable to connect them together.
Seems easier to put the relays in the light and use the existing power and use an ethernet cable to get multiple pairs back to the pinball low voltage. It eliminates the box and big external high voltage lines. But what do I know. I do like the idea though. fun to watch.
dnegrichjr they don't need all that AC line running everywhere...THAT is quite dangerous. And yes, putting the relays in the stop light would eliminate safety and design flaws...I would not want to be anywhere near that machine with HOT AC voltage going into a plastic project box. Inside a pinball machine you're actively touching... This is dangerous and ignorant to say the least. AND that's not even close to the size of a real stoplight. This would be 1000x easier and probably look exactly the same with a novelty LED stoplight.
I really wish you guys showed more of playing the game at the end. (The stoplight switching) You only showed from green to yellow.
Seriously? We watched them tinker for 40 minutes, and then we only get to see two seconds of functionality?
Loved your journey through that, lads. Glad you could make a clean 'getaway' eventually with a job well done!
This is becoming one of my favorite tested shows. Love the project.
I have run into this problem with SSRs in the past. Traditional (zero crossing) SSRs can only be turned on or off when the AC frequency crosses zero. They are essentially an optoisolator with a TRIAC attached. If you feed them a switched frequency, they latch on until a zero cross; they are then turned back on before the zero cross, hence the erratic behavior. This is likely why the SSR seemed to work properly when attached to just the matrix, as the LED in the SSR indicates both the state of the optoisolator and the output of the SSR. When it latches, the LED will stay on until a zero cross sync when it can unlatch.
For a resistive load such as a light bulb, you might get away with a "Random Fire SSR" that has circuits that allow it to be cycled at any point of the AC cycle.
I'm just going to pretend that I understood that and nod along.
So in conclusion you are saying that the choice of solid state relay was the problem?
Not really - random fire SSRs cause other problems. The correct way is to add a filter circuit to the front end - which they did, in a round-about way.
AC goes back in forth from a current perspective from -110v to +110v at 60 times per second (60hz). Alex was pointing out that the solid state relays will only allow the relay to be switched on or off when the voltage hits 0v which happens every 1/60th of a second but indicates that there are relays that are able to switch at any point in that cycle available.
Thanks so much for this! Getaway is one of my favorite games! It’s so simple but so rewarding! Great episode!
This was a proper Tested video. Good work, guys. :D
I hate to say it, but you really went through a major complicated way around getting a simple on signal from a pwm... could have been done with a transistor a schmit a diode and a capacitor.
I was thinking the same thing, but then when they went into their diatribe about the false positives and seemingly needing the PWM decoder function of the arduino I let it go.
I was wondering why they couldn't just use a diode bridge to rectify the AC to DC easily and cheaply...
This was going to be my comment.
Great, just simple stuff but demonstrated so many things. I like how you really explain the basic stuff like relays, opto-something-thingies..
Note, tradicional rele have a physical delay and maybe they would not care about the flickering voltage, but the idle animation for the stop light make it worth it to use an Arduino.
This all feels really improvised. They should have done recon to check how the machine works first. Also it makes more sense to put all high voltage in the light and run low voltage control wires (modular) from the pinball machine to the light. It is nice that they leave some of the mistakes in but it sucks that that is half the video =/
Awesome to see pinball on one of my favorite youtube channels! Maybe Ill see you at pinburgh this year :)
NICE!!!!! I have a 1986 Williams "High Speed" Pinball Machine, and an older Traffic Light almost exactly as the one you have minus the stand. When I first started watching this video I was thinking I would love to do the same. After seeing everything you went through though I kind of changed my mind.
Monostable Oneshot 555 will remove that PWM, then can use a few Logic gates to filter flickering.
Your RC circuit could have just needed a diode.
29:00 You need a diode too, not just a resistor and capacitor. Without the diode, the capacitor ends up backfeeding the matrix, discharging the capacitor instantly. No need for arduinos or optoisolators, you just need a diode to prevent backfeeding. You can also add an additional low-value resistor in series with the diode to filter out the really short pulses.
This is the first time I've seen Jeremy really open up and get excited.
Wonderful how this seemingly simple project turned out to be actually quite complex.
Ok how much is this, this is my favorite pinball machine, I neededddd it
I have one in my home I play it a ton.
I also have a full playlist of when I got the machine and cleaning and tuning it up and also putting in various mods.
Wish you guys would have shown the full sequence of lights!
So why not use a mosfet or use a bjt to simplify the circuit?
why the seperate relay box, put the relay's behind de lightbulbs and run lowvoltage to de traficlight. thats seems simpler and safer?
Wasn't it the first pinball machine who had music as well?? love that particular pinball :) high speed 1 and 2
Could you not use a 9v connected to the capacitor and resistor. Then have that split those wires and connect them to the three solid state relays, but with a mechanical relay in between each one
Have the mechanical relay attach to the common wire of the game and the rag wires respectively.
That way the battery would have enough power to trigger the SS relay and the traffic light would actually represent the game better with less delay. (also no arduino)
Artist impresion (if thats what you call 2 mins on paint)
prntscr.com/k2yj4x
(Also sorry if I drew anything wrong its been 3 years since I've done this)
Ok, I'm pretty sure you could have done this with caps and resistors. Except for the attract mode filter
This is a great example of differing engineering professions smoothly collaborating to develop a full piece of hardware.
I wonder if this could have been done mechanically with either some kind of fluid filled relay or a relay armature bonded with rubber. something like. Anything that could dampen the frequency. Seems like it would work.
if only i would have seen more footage of that mod working...
A smaller capacitor, capable of charging faster, combined with a diode to only charge it, the "relay" would discharge it, and maybe a really small resistor in series with the diode, to keep the charge time a little longer than the small peaks you would like to ignore, should do the trick. That is if the pinball machine can supply enough current to charge the capacitor quickly enough. Anyway, the Arduino is better, since you wanted to change what the light did, after not being used for a while.
transistor or mosfet can give a lot more current if its needed like you said
Just replace the bulbs in the mains traffic light that is the source of your issue with LEDs running at low voltage - put an inline connector at the traffic light in the machine - and run 4 low voltage cables to the external traffic light. No high voltage. No switched earth line. No project box. No dead people. No fires. No liability.
Sometimes you have to take a step back and think about what you are trying to achieve and work back from there. You want the external traffic light to light up - nobody says it has to be running at mains voltage.
I want that "Insert coin to Play" shirt.
Need to have that light switch between the colors when the game is idle.
As an electrician I am horrified by your work. And by not using a ul listed junction box you are making yourselves liable for any damages.
I know I was cringing all the way through this video.
Especially when he was disconnecting things while the machine is still on which can blow up boards or the facepalm moment of stripping wires while the machine was on and were the one's they had soldered to the stop light.
I am self taught and I do not know everything but dang I do not want them working any where near my H-S Classic or H-S II or my other pins. o.o
i wrote a comment above too about it. they should make a video on how to fix this WITH a certified Electrician
The armchair "electricians" are in full force on this video.
Bakers Field Ibew 558 member for nearly 25 years no armchair electrician here
Frankie Holt I'm sure you are.
Well done boys!
I would have left the relays in with the lights (if there was room). then set up a cat5 connectors and wire to get the signals to the relay. then the box does not have to be 120v ac safe. and only 1 wire to disconnect / replace if there is a problem.
Well remember Ohm's Law - V=IR and it's permutations. From there you can add resistance to the input voltage to get it down to 5V - or just use a power regulator.
It's like the old saying goes if the only tool you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail. Since I got my 3D printer I find I need to remind myself that modifying found objects is often faster and more rewarding and the finished items have a uniqueness that is interesting.
This box is not safe for a 120V AC project, sorry dudes... also 4 wires for the signals would have been enough, as you realized too late.
Fabian Tschopp And way too accessible. Just a small plastic latch isn't enough to keep curious kids and idiot adults out. They need something with a padlock latch on it... And thicker plastic...
Fabian Tschopp 15:30, I guess this is why he decided to have separate ground leads for each light...?
Solid state relays can get hot too, depending on how much current is being drawn. Might not be an issue with a simple light, but I would probably not feel comfortable mounting them to plastic. They typically have a bare aluminum back for the purpose of heatsinking.
No, more because of the matrix system that the game's computer internally uses.
But yeah, that's exactly the problems one runs into when implementing a solution without having examined the OG hardware first. Not good.
agree get a box and a fan just in case, other than that you can just change the arduino with a smaller adafruit one (trinket maybe?)
I absolutely love this show
Great video. I love you guys trying things out even if not successfully. All you haters, you enjoyed watching it with the flaws. That's what made it great. People trying things out without worrying if they would be shot down for trying. Keep it up tested crew
Nice try guys, and kudos for the trouble shooting. I must also give the guy props for installing an earth ground to the light fixture. However, I have to agree with the growing number of comments where this is really not safe. You should be switching the "hot" black wires, not the "neutral" white wires. By not breaking the hot wire, the light bulb socket is still live, even if the solid state relay is off. I am not going to beat you up for the type of box chosen for the project, but I would have encouraged you to use a better enclosure to house your project in, especially if you are going to heep the high voltage separate from the light fixture. That aside, I would have suggested you locate all the high voltage items (would have only needed an on/off switch and the solid state relays) in the light fixture, and then had a low voltage cable coming out to go to the pinball game. I think I would have liked to see you add a fuse to the light fixture, but if you had wired the rest of it correctly, you could have honestly passed on that, as it is not required by code. For just the low voltage part of your project, the box you used would have been fine. How you went about solving your matrix / PWM / glitchy signal problem, that is all a matter of what you know and what you have available to work with. Put 10 engineers in a room to solve that problem, and there is a good chance you will end up with more than 10 correct answers. Keep up the good work, and hopefully put a little more research into high voltage electrical safety and the NEC before doing another project where you will be dealing with mains voltage.
PINBALL > Everything else. Awesome work!!
I don't know much about electronics, but I'm very interested in learning about them. I was glued to my seat during this video! I had an idea about your original idea of being totally solid-state... Using your resistor-capacitor fix, but minus the arduino solution, would a smaller voltage relay work with the voltage you were originally getting? If so, maybe have it trip a slightly higher voltage rail that your bigger relays would sense? Basically, you would have the pinball sending its' micro-pulse, feeding into a low voltage relay, feeding a slightly higher voltage to your big relays. I don't know where your resistor-capacitor filter would fit in there. Would this solution work?
You would like some of my live streams of this very machine that I did from start to finish on my own Getaway that I have.
Also streamed when I put in mods.
I'll check some out!
Did not realize that this was a mod. For some reason when i was playing this machine, I thought it was an add on that was built into the game. Super cool. I miss playing at Free Gold Watch.
That was [expletive deleted] cool! I loved High Speed and played it daily when I was in college. I would have loved the semaphore in the basement of the student union!
Hey, I spotted a german Coin Slot Insert with DM... maybe a reimported machine?
Good job guys. This seems like the basic progression/troubleshooting to understand something that you don't. Sure you may not have got it 100% correct, but it did what you wanted it to do and now could be improved on to be more safe or streamlined now that the basis is there and things have been figure out about whats going on and how. Thumbs up here.
Your RC circuit could have just needed a diode in series with the resistor, but an arduino will suffice I guess.
15:08... nice use of a storage container that I also own and haven't till now found a use for. !
Version 2, I'd put the relays in the lamp housing and use a 4-pin XLR with panel mounts on the machine and the housing for the control.
Tell me more about these "relays." :P
Great video, do more like this.
That was so satisfying to come along for. I really appreciate Jeremy’s attitude toward problem solving- despite the know it all commenters here...
Agreed. However that should always be tempered by knowing one's own limitations. Here they ended up with a machine, in a public arcade, which violates safety codes.
That is simply unethical. It should have concluded with a safety inspection, by an electrician certified for such work.
Contrast this to all the safety-first attitude shown on Mythbusters.
Yep I would have said shut it down and re-do it.
Since the box they put it in was just a plastic box not properly marked for electronics and could melt down.
And with pinball machines once a fire starts you cannot get it out easily as it is like tire fire once it starts it is not going out. :|
put a few coin batteries in series to bump the voltage up then it will flip flop at the trigger range....
Pinball and screen printing in one place. Interesting idea.
You should have a whole channel with Pinball repair videos guys!
If you want those I have plenty in my playlist of when I first get a machine.
I have some in the Que a Club House from 1958 and a Sea Ray from 1971.
I also have a Space Mission, LaserCue, Classic High-Speed and High-Speed II.
I would have love to see what led bulbs in the stop light would have done instead of pulling out the arduino first But of course in a theory doesn't contestant light bulbs take longer to light up than led's i know they make led's that take 120v that will fit just about any thing now a days would be cool to know if that would work thanks guys.
Am I the only one who played with Radio Shack kits as a kid who thought "555 Timer to lengthen the pulses!" ?
monostable one shot 555
OMG I have not thought about a triple-nickel in years (decades)
Anybody else spotted the german warning label under the board? I wonder why that is there. Maybe this particular machine is quite well travelled.
The coin slots were marked up in DM (Deutschmarks) as well so it's a pretty safe bet this machine started its life in Germany.
Oh, I didn't catch that. But yeah, seems like a pretty safe bet. That's kinda cool.
RaketenKuhGewehr
Actually all domestic & international versions were produced in the same facility in Chicago, IL.
If the game was originally sent overseas, replacing the power supply with a domestic one would make it useable here. All the display languages were software controlled.
The Getaway was one of the production lines I QA'ed when I worked for Williams\Bally between '92-'94.
The US coin doors had two slots.
The foreign coin doors have 1 or 3 coin chutes.
And the back has a silk screen on it saying Caution and it in several languages of be careful when the machine is open as you can get shocked.
My Getaway was also some place in France or something as it had Francs and also a 3 slot coin door.
I have converted mine back to the US 2 coin slot and made sure all fuses and the transformer jumpers are all good for the US.
Wouldnt it have been easier to change the stop light to LED?
pur a diode and a capacitor on the big stop light's side that way the circuit is rectified
switch to LED on the traffic light ?
yea but the pinball had been converted to led? i dont think its will be noticeable , its not that antique sine it doesnt have its original housing or pole so why not
still the lights can be screwed on or off so its not like a permanent change just like the detachable wire from the pinball machine
Both of you are missing the point, it's not the incandescent light that failed, it's the relay that wouldn't trigger with the modulated signal, so no matter what was inside the stop light it wouldn't have changed a thing, unless you wanted to skip the relays altogether, and power them directly with the signal coming from the machine, which is silly because there's no way you'll power lights that big with that tiny voltage, led or otherwise.
@slysnake96 Yes, you very very clearly realized that, it's obvious that you realized that from the very start, no way you didn't notice that, that would be crazy, i'm certain that you knew all about it. but it's lame to point out the obvious thing sometimes, so you just talk about something very secondary, like the antique value of a non antique item, and how changing a light bulb would ruin it, because it's still using the same antique light bulbs from the day it was made, because they never burn and they continuously work for 30 years, seriously though all jokes aside, it amazes me how people can't even say "oh whoops, i missed that"
monimoni0147 Maybe you missed a point? At what point does the original comment say that leds would have solved the problem? I don't see that. And they are clearly not talented enough to work with high voltage devices so it would have been much safer for everyone if they changed to leds.
You clearly don't know anything about leds because you can run endless amounts of leds on tiny voltages, they just need constant current. Just google ws2812b or neopixel for example. Oh whoops, YOU missed that.
I'm no traffic light expert, but that "traffic light" looks outrageously small compared to the size of an actual traffic light. Could be a novelty traffic light.
Possibly it is. However it looks to be appropriate size for the type used at roadworks.
It's probably an 8 inch light used on city side streets
You are correct; that is NOT a standard traffic light but most likely a work area temporary light. I have a real traffic light and it is more then twice the size of this little pole light. That light would look like a Barbie doll toy light 20 feet in the air over a intersection.
Standard traffic lights used at intersections have a one foot lens, AFAICR.
Can you make General Zod's kryptonian armor from Man of Steel?
That’s a bad ass shelves on the background at the beginning of this video... I will build something like that in my house!
Not to harp on all the AC flaws of this video (because everyone else has been tearing you guys a new one) but for the low voltage side of this, you could have handled all the LV signal triggers with a length of Cat5 4-Pair, and made the connections simple with RJ-45 jacks mounted to the underside of the machine, and cut through the sidewall of the non-UL listed "project" box. Then you could use any standard PC network cable for easy connection from the mod-box to the machine. This would make it easy to disconnect the light from the machine for easy relocation.
They keep using the term 'stoplight' but I was wondering, isn't the stoplight just the red light. and the whole thing a traffic light. In Dutch we make this distinction or is it ambiguous in English.
traffic light is used as well, but most of the time stop light is used cause the main function iirc 70 -80% of the time is to stop traffic more than let it go. Since the stop in general is like a stop sign which was used before the 'stop lights' which were in the beginning only red not even multi colored to make sure all ways stop and let others go, so the phrise 'stop light' stuck since that is what it first did before it told others to go with a green.. and slow with a yellow.
Makes sense. come to think of it. If I were to give directions in Dutch I'll use 'stoplicht' (stop light) 75% of the time. So in common speech it's used as well allthough technically not correct. Thanks for the explanation the both of you.
No problem, glad to have useless information in my head that doesnt get used at all actually get used once lol.
Traffic lights only exist to tell you to stop when you otherwise wouldn't. I think it makes sense to refer to the whole thing as a stoplight with that in mind.
Abject Permanence till a certain extent sure. but the unit as a whole also contains the green and yellow light which indicate either not to stop or to stop when safe. also a flashing yellow light can indicate caution. so not just stop. so I like the stop and go but I get the day to day term being stop light
Could not soldering the ends of the high voltage wires create over heating issues on the terminals?
Wesley Naylor no
WITEBRED112 explain.
It just wouldn't. It might be a tiny bit hotter, but certainly not enough to create any issues. The parts are rated for voltage and current. Stay within parameters and you won't have a problem.
a7i20ci7y cool thanks! I only raised this concern because I bought a cheap 3D Printer (Anet A8) which has an issue with the main power input melting to the point where it can desolder itself from the motherboard. Long story short I delved into the forums and found that the issue could be somewhat fixed by soldering the ends of the braided wires to create less resistance before screwing them down. I guess it's a different kettle of fish. I'm the noobest of the noobs.
Wesley Naylor if your wires are melting it means they aren’t the right size for your application, you either need bigger wires or less power
diode then resistor to the transistors base, then resistor and capacitor onto the SSR's just adjust the main resistor from the transistor to the capacitor.
Really cool indeed
Why Tested doesn't have a Pinball show, given the nature of how the machines work.. is a fucking mystery. What better way to get kinds into electricity, physics, and repairing cool shit?!
IT IS NOT TO SAFETY CODE. You NEED a COMMON GROUND for Pinball, Light and Box to be Legal and for the actual Electrical SAFETY circuit breakers to actually to function as intended. TIPS: use metal box, ground everything including the cable from pinball to light AND use a Metal Shielded Cable(better safe than sorry).
PLEASE oh please, do another video on Safety on this Project.
I have to agree. I'm a fan of Tested but this entire video just shows utter cluelessness about high-voltage safety. They're so clueless about it they don't even realize how clueless they are. Honestly I think this video should be taken down, and the device should CERTAINLY be removed from any public place; it's flat-out dangerous and illegal.
This is actually low voltage. But yeah it exceeds extra low voltage, which is considered safe.
Yeah its low voltage .
If you look at some cheap electronics you might find lacking ground like these guys have done. The main thing is having grounds all connected. Switching active / live is important aswell. But as they say the light housing didnt have ground before so atleast its better than before. A case with screw down lid is important so some kid doesnt get fried fingers
Low voltage? in NA its 120V for AC and the plastic box cannot be grounded. there is AC going in the box to the relays. Also its not the voltage that kills you its the Amps. its the Amps that make wall breakers work NOT the voltage.
Its the Amps that kills you NOT the Volts. Safety is determined by Electrical Circuit Breakers that function by measuring how many Amps go through a circuit not Volts. Look at your own wall breakers, home standards are 15A to 20A.
LOOKS LIKE A FUN PLACE! 😧
This feels like the geek version of "This Old House" I like.
I'd have made the connection in the wiring harness leading to the lights. The kind of thing people do all the time in car audio wiring. Also definitely would have solved the issue of the pulsing signals prior to even testing it; that's pretty obvious.
Is that simone in the intro?
Yeah for a boost sub-circuit you need a capacitor but also an MCU. Arduino should work fine.
Use a smaller step up relay to trigger the SS relays.
realy nice
4:38 my life in two words for last three or more years :D
Electronics 101...hahaha..
great video...
Hot to ground and hot to neutral. Seems like the guy explaining would probably know how to fix a breaker live as well lol
Fun fact: The pinball arcade burned down the next day due to an electrical fire from an unknown source.
5:35 running out of ink , always hate that
Arrrrr....threepwood! Gimme back my shirt!!
I am from Spangler/Barnesboro! Hiya neighbor.
Why not 3D printing a custom box?
Sean is from Altoona.... I'm so so sorry to hear that.
That T-Shirt is awesome *i void warranties*
Lots of safety comments I see. But surely the machine should be off before tinkering 😜
Yep I always work with the game off.
Doing what they were doing with it on is a great way to blow up boards and cook the transistors off the boards.
Only time I do not really turn off the power is changing out a light bulb or changing out a rubber on the game.
*Cringe. There is a lot of electrical safety issue in this video. First that box would never pass inspection, they really should have used a Nema 1 electrical enclusure that can then be grounded and it would need to be UL listed. Also I would have put a divider to keep the DC separate from the AC. When it comes to an AC circuit you never switch the neutral. Not sure if they did it that way but just for everyone else to know. Lastly this should have been done by a licensed electrician since it will have the public interacting with it. If any of this shorted out and started a fire the insurance company would not cover it. Or if someone was electrocuted you could be held responsible. Hate to be that guy complaining about how they did this cool project but electricity is no joke.
Cringe...you complaining about what you think you see in a 30-minute video. You have no clue what was done off camera and assuming anything is beyond absurd. Another armchair know-it-all.
Well he does know the box is plastic and has no divider, and he clarifies he doesn't know if the neutral was switched or the hot. Furthermore, one would assume that a 40 minute video would show an electrician if they called one in.