Mission Impossible Mopar 318 - more power no cost!
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- In this, PowerTec 10, episode 58. DV continues the rod lightening proceedure. Here he details how to lighten the beam of the rod on a thru-bolt style rod which are typically used for factory rods. Also talked about here are the first block mods that produce a power increase. These mods can be used on more than just the project 318 Mopar that we are doing here.
I'm so glad Uncle Tony told me about this channel. I'm gonna have to buy an engine to rebuild so I can use the tips you've taught me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
have you checked out Richard Holdeners channel?
Buy his books, they are loaded with info!
Try starting with some small engines, being they are smaller it's easier and quicker to see results and test theories.
I did a little mix/match of connecting rods and wrist pins between early and late models on a Briggs 49 cubic inch v twin and saved like 30 grams per hole from using the early rod and pin.
I happened to have both types of engines apart for other reasons and noticed one of them had a much thinner wall on the wrist pins.
So I weighed the rods and found more weight reduction.
She picks up nicely now and carries it to 44-4500 or so , especially with some port work on the heads.
Go ahead ,shave like .150 off a head and see what it does.
I'm just saying it's easier and faster to try on a small engine and then transfer the idea to an automotive engine.
Good idea, a Studebaker V8 is my choice.
🐿️🐿️
David Vizard is the engine master. He has forgotten more than I’ll ever know about engines. Thank you for sharing your bountiful wisdom with us!!
He hasn't forgotten anything. His recall has just gotten slower since his brain surgery.
@@hotrodray6802 it's an expression dude....
this is old school horse power secret gold! I wish more people would share these tricks
By the way, raising money for St. Jude’s is great thing! Thank you! I’ll make sure to like every video I see. That said, the quality and quantity of subjects you show us is priceless in my book! I hope the young guys watching this are using these tips to build their own killer projects! And maybe, through some miracle, I’ll be able to build my own project.
The videos with just David are SOO much better, I could listen to this man all day
I have a 87 318, I am saving every post, with the plan to implement all you have taught me. Thanks for your lessons.
Same! With all this 318 tech gold on hand from DV, ANDY, UTG, & Charles Servedio- we are definitely going to pick up some horses ...that's for sure!
Being brittish your books tuning my crossflow cortinas and anglias were legendary. Dave mate you and Geoff howe were and will always be my idols.
All these small things I've never even thought about all add up to making an engine run more efficient, which means more power to the wheels, instead of losing power to the inefficiencies in the engine.
WOW I had never once considered the airflow in and out of the bottoms of the cylinders!!!
Now I have to look at the whole engine as an air pump, not just the part of the cylinder above the piston!!!
I always wondered what was being done to oem rods in an old-school build. Thanks, keep it coming please.
You have a style of presentation that reminds makes listening and learning relaxing! 👍
This makes the rod look gorgeous, reduces the weight and stress concentration.
ah 49 grams per rod reduction I've always been a believer in crank case porting for reduced pumping loss but i always thought more about it getting from one cylinder to the next past the mains i cant believe i overlooked that obvious sharp edge thanks David
i remember back in 1973 doing this to a 186 ci holden 6cyl - in the back shed block deburring and oil gallery blending and we actually polished the rod beam on a big wheel to mirror finish all 6 rods and push rods .
Prior Video i guessed 23.4g off the little end. Im going to guess another 21g off the beam for a total reduction of 44.4g. Great stuff DV
Pure Gold David.. thanks so much for doing these vids. Can you please do a session on the oil pan, I’ve heard crank scrapers help power remove oil from wind ages etc. Would be great to get your teaching on it..
I’ll SWAG that weight at 15 grams. It certainly enough to throw the engine out of balance! Back when I worked at an Auto Parts and Machine store, we had a customer that collected Corvettes. He was a pilot who flew the Hawaii route, and had almost every year vette in his collection. He bought a new Vette in 81, broke it in and then took it to Firebird/Wild Horse Pass raceway to see what it would do. A rod let go in a big way. Then he brought it to us to repair. There was no repair to be made. Inside the oil pan we found a whole lot of gravel, and a few hunks of identifiable connecting rod. Between rod to rod of what was left we found a variance of 5 grams. There was no way to tell how much the exploded rod weighed. We ended up building him an old school 350 with 461 straight angle heads.
Sir thank you for what you’re doing I’m an old Mopar guy for many years and I just learned a little trick about chamfering the bottom of the cylinder walls that is really neat anyway to thank you for helping the children at Saint Jude‘s I’m sure I’m not as old as you I’ll be 67 in February but I remember Danny Thomas he was a good man and thank uncle Tony to he’s a cool dude this is six in a row jim from Kennerdell Pennsylvania I go by six and row jim I have a 1991.5 dodge pick up and when the engine sits here and runs it has some clattering going on I’ll give you three guesses what’s going on under the hood it’s got a six banger when was last time you heard that again thank you for helping Saint Jude❤❤❤❤❤😊🎉
The old “Chevy Power” manual, back in the late -70’s / early -80’s, had a good illustration on reworking big block rod forgings for small block applications, that went into great detail, similar to what DV is doing here.
Thank you for your time
Got to admit at approx 13:20 that really wasn't something a thought about it... really good advice!
totally agree about notches seen a many hundred-kilo spinning casting broken into a half-machined right angle and solved from fatigue cracking by a deliberate "U" groove actually cut into casting reducing the section however totally solving the issue...the same method and concept! Good stuff
thanks, Jm
This collaboration with the people involved is literally horsepower GOLD!
How to Modify Ford S.O.H.C. Engines Book sitting on my bookshelf having been moved to 10 different houses and now to a different country, great to see you David still doing your thing.
Thank you! I look forward to applying this on my next 318 build.
I am guessing 51 grams per rod for the total modifications. Very cool attention to detail. Each 1 HP gained is taking time and knowledge to attain. It all adds up.
my off-hand guess, near 1.5 oz (42 gram) per rod, it adds up.
I was think in %. Say 2-3%? I think the biggest gain is in windage. Polished surfaces shed oil better.
@@AZOffRoadster I'm going with 5 %. But just a wild guess!
2.7 ounces... I'm a little late but I just found yur channel I'm a mopar guy so I guess uncle Tony's algorithm put me on to u and I'm very glade for that lol I'm a new engine builder and I need all the help and info I can get
Really enjoying this sir. Followed you in books and print since the 70s and my mini days. Your books taught me to port cylinder heads and I had great enjoyment and success from that. That and my die grinders and arsenal of grinding stones and cutters have stood me in great stead for many other of life's automotive challenges. Keep up the great work. It inspires us. Malcolm Ottawa Valley
Mr. DV you have given me confidence to try to work on my 1st motor! Your videos are Top Rank go-tos to me! I think around 7 grams each has been lightened from rods.
I'm saying a 51g reduction in weight.. This is AWESOME!! Gonna start working on my connecting rods. LOL
57 grams total. The rods are a work of art and performance!
Thank you David, for sharing your amazing and comprehensive knowledge on optimizing all things.
Nice work on the stress relief, I’d guess 16-18g off the little end and 30g total including the improvement big end around the bolts
I'm going to say that if got your crew on it it will get more free HP. Every little bit will eventually add up and more is always better than zero because you are skeptical or slacking, and possibly can't get your hands on the tools. If is the last because of budget or just don't know anyone who has the stuff you need, is a different story than the first two. Something that costs nothing if you are able to get this done is a great tip. I'm glad that Unity Motorsports turned me on to DV. Happy Holidays and I hope that you had a Merry Christmas and I will wish you a great and good New Years!
If you don't have the funds for the basic tools that you should already have, then you surely don't have the funds to build the engine to begin with. My 2 cents.
@@anthonylorek8847 A lot of us are beginners, and we buy tools as we need them. Don't sell us short, we started some where. I'm 74 years old, and I'm still learning. Happy new year.
25 grams, keep the videos coming great info!
Thank you David for this detailed string of videos, a lot of what I will use on my 365cu LA 360. My guess on weight reduction of head portion of rod only is 36 grams. Thanks again
I can't wait to see this engine finished.
Great viedeo, can't await to lighten and reduce stress with the polishing job on all my further engine builds.
I swear, this channel is GOLD. Fantastic job! It's soo detailed and soo Old School!
Big Mopar fan. Did same thing 25 years ago to "interceptor" rods lost 100 grams I belive per rod i also ported a set of Chrysler "J" head to flow 287 intake and 193 exhaust @600 lift. Flowed 235 at .300 lift. This combo Made 607 hp and 642lbs 10-1 compression with mild cam.
Ran on 89 octane. 366 Cid. Flat tappet cam. Stock shaft rokers from a 273.
Wow that's 1.75 per cubic inch. 🤔🤔🤔
Sure
600hp from a pump gas Chrysler is pretty easy.
@@hotrodray6802 2hp per Cid is the goal
@@rudyjhughes soon DV will explain Chrysler .904 lifter diameter and how to take advantage of it.
Always something great going on here
We did this back in the 80s
If you got real generous you could do a winner for each stage of rod lightening/polishing 😁.
I haven't made a guess yet but that 'lump' on small end has to be relatively heavy.
Very interested in the cylinder base mod, I've often wondered about airflow around that edge but never actually tried any mods there as motorcycles usually have a bevel because piston goes in from bottom (until 'uni-block' started to be common in 80's)
radius to the bottoms is something I'd never thought about, but makes sense.
not just the air flow but the extra oil it'd throw into the skirt area too for reducing friction+wear would help free up some power.
Total mass removal has to be close to 120 grams per rod. Good old school hot rod stuff
I just love this project.
Loving this project / series! great stuff!
You are a good man ! So is uncle Tony I guess . Lol just kidding ..you guys are great . Good luck St. Judes !!
I'd assume 25g worth of metal cut out of each rod. I'm excited to see more details about this project!
I'm thinking 38.8 grams per rod.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge Dave.
43g per rod sounds about right I guess. Thanks for the videos, much appreciated.
yup, I'm thinking 1.5 oz off each, is 42 gram and 3/4 lb reduction for all 8.
then the knife edges to the crank taking another lb away from rotating mass reducing windage losses, then the bottom bore radius... whoah brilliant!
I think that you lightened the rod by 26 grams. Thanks, David for another informative vid. Paul.
More like ounces! Lets say 66grams! I was talking about the total process! After you finished!
23 grams removed. Thank you Mr. Vizard for all you do. You are a special person. Any way you could do a video on golf ball dimpling of a combustion chamber and/or intake runner? Some diesel guys swear by it, just wondering your thoughts. Take care
Awesome videos. Thank you 👍 so much
cousin of mine got our grandfather 78 Dart with a 318. he put 4bl carb, headers and a mild cam, clean the heads up and put new valves and gids in. i was shocked what lil he done made that big of a change in that 318.
30 grams thanks for the great info
It's a wild guess but 65 grams total reduction. Great video. Following this build. I expect a lot taken from the big end later too
Great content. I really appreciate the knowledge. The rods I say were reduced by 2.5 grams
The REAL DEAL !!
Great video. My guess is about 37 grams of material removed per rod. Looking forward to the next video. :)
if you drill two half inch holes (quarter inch deep) in that lump at the bottom of the rod, that won’t change its strength yet make that lump half the weight
the pin-end, lump, can also be drilled (half inch drill bit) quarter inch deep
I'm guessing 39.3 grams. Thanks for the great content👍
Thanks for the information I have learned a lot from you.
I wrote 4.5 ounce or 126 grams per rods last night but cant seem to find it going through the comments.
Thanks for the content.
Looking forward for these episodes
I'm loving this build👍
I did this modification when I built my 327 chevy 20 years ago. I don't know if I did it as well as David Vizard but I did my best.
I used to do this rod work for a team that built SBF and Bosses for SCCA road race applications. What I see missing here is having the rods professionally shot peened afterward. Not peened in your home blasting cabinet. Industrial type peening. Probably about 15 bucks a rod these days. Grinding and polishing changes the properties of the metal.
It sure does but what is better a rough hard shot surface or the polished one?
The shot surface is harder but is it less crack prone? Polishing after shot would seem senseless but idk.
@@kenmoule825 All I can tell you is that this team and their opponents did this on a regular basis on engines that held sustained upper rpm use. I have not seen anything about peening rods on YT yet. Might be interesting to get an updated viewpoint.
@@413x398 My eggselent now passed on machinist said never touch anything in the rotating and reciprocal assembly unless you plan to balance it, reduce weight and polish the surface. He strongly recommended shot peening, on an industrial scale, the rods specifically and the crank if your after weight reduction. Now I'm not sure how much tension or compression you have on freshly polished con rod beams. I do know if you mess with the structural webbing on the crank it will crack if if isn't re-shot with steel at an industrial level whatever that may be IDK, specifically. We set the stuff out back in the 80s and 90s. Most people will claim they know some chit when in acual reality don't, don't know a fuggin thing, that is. I'm not guy but I've messed with a part or two maybe once 😉
I do not shot peen blueprinted mechanical oil pumps once they were polished but we didn't road race either or run much past 300 lap enduros. Offroad racing everything needs to be the best it can like offshore boat racing. Both are brutal on everything so shot peening everything on those is probably best. Live and learn or break chit!
Happy New Year everyone
Thank you for the information.
I did this mod on my rods. Nasty business with all tha small iron slivers. They followed me into the house and I think I had to pull them from my feet for a few months after 😅
I also removed the pad on the big end so I saved quite a bit even on my v6.
I see DV is back up to 20k subs. Not bad. But I think the decimal point needs to move over a bit. 😎
agree, there's gotta be at least 200k Mopar gear-heads in CZcams that'd watch if they knew about DV's record and rep!
You have so much experience and knowledge how great is that thank you always ❤ learning happy new year
35 grams . Thank you DV for the great content.
Lots of really good detail. Thanks
Two things, A. losing so much meat around the pin will probably weaken the rod. And make it impossible to balance. B.the base of the rod too should be 'dressed up' . Then the whole rod shotpeened.
Though the time and materials used costs more than buying new aftermarket rods with the threads in the rods.
I have seen too many stock rods fail, more so when 'strengthened'
And those 318 rods are fragile to start with, more so for their length
U make some good points I was kinda thinking about. Bit I don't see why it be hard to balance if u make them all the same
Why will it make it impossible to balance ?
I’m guessing a 19g reduction DV.
Always great videos! 🏁
Great series Mr. Vizard! With respect to your block mod, I would like your thoughts on running a vacuum pump to create a negative pressure in the crankcase. Thank you.
I would have liked to see you using a soft jaw insert for the vice jaws when the bolt removal and torquing sequence was done. The small movement that the rod makes during this process can also produce stress risers that you're trying to avoid. Nice job on the polishing of the beam.
On diesel rods, the guys in the factory would take them off the machine and chuck them in the parts bin. They didn't understand. And most of the stress is stopping the upwards movement of the piston at TDC
Hi David; another great video! I'm going to guess a reduction in weight of 23.7 grams per rod; well that's what I managed to achieve lol! Although you probably beat that
great video thank you david
you could remove the same amount (more) using a drill-drill holes deep (the correct amount) in certain areas all over the rod
gordon Murray’s Ts50 did this too the brakes on that car
drilling holes in the correct places not only lightens the live but also adds flexibility at the same time
Excellent, thanks
Thanks for another brilliant video Sir!!!
You could save a lot of work if you could locate a set of poly rods. They are already set up for full floating pins and are much lighter. Use in the 273 & early 318 engines with forged steel cranks. Some balancing required.
This was awesome
Super cool stuff 😎thanks David
3 times out of 10 you're a knurled bolt shank, you don't hear us complaining! Oh and 52 grams lighter!
Love your video’s & methods David, most of which I have used over the years! I am guessing 27g on small end & 57g overall.
DV I LOVE 💕 YOU!
Freakin awesome! Thanks for showing that David.
Mr. Vizard the engine wizard, I'm loving the videos on this build. I'm currently doing a 1963 plymouth valiant hyper-economy build right now(slant 6, 170 cubes, a833 OD transmission, 2.93 7-1/4 diff) and I'm looking forward to every trick you throw at this 318 in the hopes of applying the same principles to my lowly slant 6. I'm really trying for 40MPG highway out of this car. Could you explain exactly why lightening the rotating mass of an engine can free up engine HP? And also how does a lightened mass affect idle speed, as well as take offs from a dead stop? I also can't wait to see your camshaft selection for this build! Thanks.
The key to getting that Slant 6 to mpg well comes down maximizing cylinder pressure without making it detonate. Think of how a diesel operates.
Thunderhead289 and Unity Motorsports have excellent videos on carb and ignition tuning.
If it was me, I would get a custom camshaft made that would increase the torque in the 1200-3500 rpm range. Use DV's program to spec it out. Then work on friction reduction. Use Lubrication Engineers synthetics from front to back.
Then drive it like a truck, shifting at 2000-2200 rpms. Experiment with driving style. Add vacuum and AFR gauges. Put a knock controller on the ignition......the J&S Safeguard is the best.
just some random ideas - reduce your oil pump to 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM
Cut 2 blades from your water pump
Run an electric fan that ONLY comes on when hot AND when your brake lights are on. Feed the relay from your brake light circuit.
Lower valve spring tension, retard cam, lessen the "overlap" and maximum lift. (requires grinding) Having the intake close late makes it like an Atkinson Cycle.
Having the exhaust close early keeps the fresh charge from being scavenged out.
Hi DV I'm guessing a total reduction of 47 grams per rod. I'm really enjoying your videos! Keep them rolling!
It’s all in the details 😎👍
There are a couple places holes can be drilled on that rod that won’t sacrifice any strength
42.5 grams total, verry detailed info thanks
Thanks again D.V. 90 grams per rod is my guess, taker easy, and happy new year bud.
Great lookin metal work bud!
Thank you !
72 grams is my guess since it's my lucky number or favorite number haven't figured that out for sure yet🤣
This could also be applied to Holdener's 2.2 & 2.5 engines since those rods are similar to the 318 rod
Just a friendly suggestion for anyone attempting this at home, invest in a set of magnetic soft jaws. Can be had cheap.