Ford F-350 Powerstroke 6.0 Diesel Coolant filter!
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- čas přidán 20. 06. 2022
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OMG, I can tell you are a FORD mechanic.
That's a actual better condenser, because that is a microfin condenser, they have an better heat transfer then the stock condenser.
Ray, sir tell me those plyers are the 11" ones and not the $$$$ one. The link gave me choices, one I did not like the cost of.
On the new belt, I always start it before the fan, shrouded bit. A DOA alternator with squeal caused repeat removal of it all. A 10 second run to hear a bad noise, worth it. Maybe just once but that one time will suck big.
Like your channel, keep enjoying your work and work towards your shop. Honest man is worth easy 25% more per hour. Know your worth sir, Making $5 an hour on 20 employees beats your salary. Maybe. LOL.
what is the site, were you serch schematichs diagram ? tnx
I'm a disabled diesel mechanic. First, thank you for all of your informative and entertaining content. Because of years after abusing my body, I can't even hold on to a wrench anymore. I miss it (for the most part) and watching you and two other channels helps me get my daily mechanic fix. Thank you. I now say "click" after I finish everything and I say "gravity" after I drop things (and I drop a lot of things). Second, as most have stated, the coolant filter helps prevent pitting in the piston liners. You can do the same thing by adding products like Luberfiner Lubricool (they did not sponsor this comment). Thanks for the humor and the snarkey way you handle haters. Keep it shiny. - Tim C. Dillard
i feel your pain i'm in the same boat.
start stretching your hands all the time. Like any time you're up against a wall or in a chair or on a bed. Just stretch your hands until they go numb. I know that sounds weird but it does help a lot with the carpal tunnel issue. I have the same problem and it started to go away after I started doing the stretching exercises. Was going to have the surgery done but the doctor didn't want to perform it on me.
I am in the exact same problem as yourself, I can just get out of bed most days so watching mechanical problems helps keep my brain active.
Thanks for letting everyone know that some if not most mechs if they work in this field long enough develop back and muscle issues.i too have them,but i Also believe it may have a chemical component to them.benzine,chlorinated carbon cleaner,gas etc.When i did mech work 40 years ago,we knew chems were bad,but ignored it,you need to fix the car or truck 1st.Well now it's gotten better for mechs ,but much harder to get parts clean. I MEAN JUST LOOK AT RAY'S USE OF "BRAKE CLEAN"hahahahahha it must really be may of WATER non toxic of course with a little orange scent ,to make your think it's STRONG STUFF.haha By the way RAY >VERY nice catch on that 2x screen filter and the clogged one,excellent,video.thank you.
@@sams6090 good job that the doctor didn't operate to repair your wrists🤔. My wife has been operated on twice 😠, for her carpel tunnel😠, her wrists look like that she has been self harming😠, with all the scaring 😠. & guess what🤔😠. Her wrists still hurt her & she in constant pain😠😠. Waste of time😠😠🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
There is a design defect on the Ford 6.0 PSD that can sometimes be cured (or the damage delayed) with a coolant filter. The issue is there is a plate heat exchanger that dumps heat from the oil into the coolant. The coolant passages are very small and clog up with casting sand and silicates from the breakdown of the coolant. The filter is supposed to stop that. Once the heat exchanger stops up, you don't get coolant flow to the EGR cooler. That results in whatever leftover coolant in the EGR cooler turning to steam. The steam pressure ruptures the EGR cooler and the head gaskets.
This issue ended up costing Ford more in warranty repairs on these engines than all other warranty repairs on all other Ford vehicles combined over the entire history of Ford Motor Company. Ford sued Navstar (the designer and manufacturer of the engine) to recoup their warranty costs. The truck owners were involved in a class action suit against Ford. Since mine was low mileage and had not exhibited the problem at the time of the lawsuit (which is how I found out about the issue and installed a coolant filter), I got nothing out of the lawsuit. At about 95K, we started seeing symptoms of the problem (the oil temperature will be more than 10 degrees hotter than the coolant temperature). We fixed the problem by installing the Bullet Proof Diesel solution that adds a radiator to cool the oil, eliminates the factory oil coiler, and replaces the factory oil filter setup with a remote filter that is much larger. Our engine was made day 4 of production on that engine. It is now 19.5 years old with 150K miles on it. We change the coolant filter once a year. I did build a custom mount for the oil filter unit that attaches to the battery tray and is much sturdier than the one on the truck you are working on in this video. By removing one bolt, the whole thing comes loose, and you can throw it up on top of the engine to get it out of your way.
Pretty much the correct answer. I've done most of this myself to keep my truck from developing these problems. Haven't done the coolant filter yet, but still low mileage and probably should get it on there. Don't drive it much these days, COVID-19 and all.
@@seanfiggins4241 One of the big advantages of the coolant filter is it keeps your hoses from wearing out from the inside. The one going from the heater core to the degas bottle (part of which is metal and attaches to the firewall) is original on my truck!
I saw a comment on a blog for ford trucks, or maybe the Powerstrokes, that said International put the coolant filter on the engine to begin with and that Ford got the design and decided to do away with the coolant filter on the Ford vehicles. They also said the International version with the coolant filter did not have the oil cooler problems the fords had.
@@5400bowen I have heard the same. I have also been told by a diesel mechanic that I trust who worked on busses with that engine that you have to be careful which filters you use. He says some of them have an additive in them which is not compatible with the 6 litre.
My son worked for BPD. Good company, fun crew.
32:44 "I will escalate until one of us is dead"... well that escalated quickly from trying to "live in harmony" with it. Love it. That was great. Laughed like hell. It's the mantra of my life... "I'll try and be nice... no, you don't want to reciprocate this time? One of us must die, and it won't be me."
I swear, I'm tempted to drive all the way across the country to have Ray work on my vehicles.
Owner of this F350 needs to take this video to the previous shop as evidence of defective service and get compensated for this repair.
The owner MAY be the previous shop, thus the reason he paid to have it done this time around.
@@ralfie8801 Your comment is 4months old now... but I agree. The theme of mistakes presented does not seem to be from a competent mechanic. Then again I know many incompetent mechanics. So... disregard?
@@lancegeorge8589
IDK! I slept last night and the night before and I can’t remember what happened on Monday, let alone 4 months ago.
Plus I just blew up a freshly changed power assembly on a GE tier 4 locomotive while confirming a good repair with a load test. She didn’t work out too well.
i watched that part 3 times to be sure but that Orifice tube was in backwards. the filter is supposes to be facing up stream not down. and it is in the low side not the high side.
ok after watching more i see some nut ball just jammed it in the wrong place. but the right one does have a good bit of metal on it. that is a great find ray and i am vary happy to see you change the dryer. any one who has gone to school for AC will tell you a dryer is a must.
that long crank with the 300,000+ miles i would guess a HPOP leak down. that one may be back.
Some idiot had worked on this previously, no doubt! A vehicle with this mileage needs everything you touch, to protect yourself! Accumalator is a dryer but on the low side! Replace as said previously !
Ray, you crack me the hell up!!! I'm not sure I could work with you. You're humor and my dark humor, I don't think we'd get anything done!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Also, you make all this work effortless, kudos man. 🤘🤘🍻🍻
Ray, that coolant filter is probably to filter out sand. In the 7.3 era, from the 94-97 and 98.5 through 2004, sand was notorious in the coolant system. The reason being was that the blocks were cast in sand molds. There was so much sand left over that a lot of 7.3 owners put Baldwin coolant filters inline with the expansion bottle return. In my early 99 7.3 dually, I changed my coolant filter about every 50k and opened it up. You could definitely see sand stuck in the filter pleats. After the 5th or 6th filter change, the sand was almost nonexistent. I do not know if the 6.0 blocks were sand cast or not but that would be my reasoning for having it on the coolant return line.
Thanks again for the videos Ray, I enjoy them immensely and learn quite a bit.
One of the thing I forgot to mention about the 6 l. Diesels. The Bosch manufactured oil cooler that lays in the engine valley had a tendency to melt the solder connections and blow oil into the coolant system and you would know this because the expansion bottle would be covered in coolant because the pressure would exceed the rating on the cap. So maybe the filter was installed to prevent something? I don't know. My knowledge and experiences with the 7.3
Yes the 6.0 had the sand problem too.
The sand will prematurely wear the water pump impeller, rad and heater core causing leaks or at least clogging and even overheating. The filter is a "bypass" filter bleeding a negligible percentage of the total flow and filtering it
Also would clog the oil cooler in the deep heart of the engine. I’ve had to change out two of them because the cooler would get clogged. Therefor the coolant wouldn’t cool the oil properly. I would get delta differences as far as 240 oil temp to 190 coolant temp. Once I put on the filter it has improved the oil cooler operation by keeping the lines clear.
not sand, silica.
after cooking at 900' in the egr cooler the silica (in the coolant)hardens into beads(sand). this is what I found when flushing the POS 6.0 i had multiple times.
Biggest problem with that engine is egr cooler coolant flow, goes into oil cooler then egr cooler. egr cooler heats and flashes coolant causing pressure and stopping/slowing flow.
Also is the biggest problem with the injectors. "Sticktion" is from the varnish from the burnt oil , not letting injector work until warm, that doesnt get cooled correctly.
6.0 is a great engine, if you:
Completely delete egr.
had air oil cooler.
have head studs.......
f it, i live with the 1st gen v10s, always start and easy/cheap to fix.
Yup, same issue with the 6.0's.....I did not put the inline in but I did do coolent flushes with new thermostat every summer. Never had an issue.
The engine Is a combination of steel and aluminum parts. Over time they can corrode and clog the cooling system Oil cooler and EGR. The filter kit helps prevent that. Its a known failure point in the 6.0
A lot of the water filters have a piece of zinc in them to fight corrosion between dissimilar metals.
This is the reason for having an Abortion ford failed at the 6.0 and 6.4
The 6.0 PowerJoke goes through head gaskets like a fat kid goes through chocolate chip cookies... The coolant filter keeps oil out for a good 10 minutes to save bearings
@Rick O'Sidhe
But in fresh water...use magnesium sacrificial anodes....
Magnesium anodes are the most active, and are the only anodes that work well in the low conductivity of fresh water.
Magnesium is also relatively non- toxic to aquatic life.
Being so active, magnesium doesn't last long in salt or brackish water and so is not recommended for these waters.
Magnesium anodes are only available for recreational applications.
Yes, this is why coolant needs to be replaced periodically
Breakfast, Coffee and a new Ray video. What a way to start the day! Good morning y'all!
This may sound silly but I admire the way you spend no time removing something in your way. It seems I spend too much time thinking of ways around not moving an obstruction. In my head I always think removing things are going to create a bigger PITA but you prove otherwise.
😂, same here
same here....fairly certain that it's some kind of primal instinct with us dudes. :0
3 golden rules of being a mechanic
-if its in your way and relativly easy to remove, remove it. 10 min to remove an intake manifold to get to some rear ac line nuts vs 30 min with a mirror, light, and extensions trying to reach around a firewall? Yeah, manifold goes.
-if you're replacing a part already, don't be afraid to break it to save time. Just remember if it had to be broken to remove it at all, especially due to clearance, this tip will not help.
-if there are KNOWN and LIKELY problems to encounter during the repair, such as possibly needing a connector on a sensor you know is bad and is buried, inform the customer that it may need to be replaced during the repair. If you tell them what else might break while in there, you're not responsible to pay for it. If they don't know beforehand, you probably will have to eat it.
One of the vids he did i forget what he was replacing but he left the radiator brackets in that were in the way n fighting whatever he did instead of removing them. Later in the vid he said i should have just removed these but now im committed to doing it wo removing them. Idk why he didnt as soon as they were in the way. They're one bolt each and super easy. Would have made his job much easier but he still kept them on there even knowing he should have. I like most of the work he does, hes a pretty damn good mechanic, but theres been quite a few times hes done things like this or other things that jus made me think why they hell are you or arent you doing this. He even said a couple times in this vid that he often doesnt take stuff off he should making things harder for himself, and thats his style. Directions say to remove tensioner, im going to try doing it wo removing it, remove intake, continues to remove shroud wo removing intake stroud was stuck on. Those two arent that big of a deal and i would have done it wo removing them too. Jus funny you say you admire he takes the time to remove things when multiple times in the video he said he doesnt remove things/thats his style lol
@@jacksmith2315 not rainman but I saw another video where someone did a 5.3 oil sending unit without removing the manifold, and its like, this industry is already hard work, and having to arch you back over at weird angles like that to get down there is a sure way to hurt yourself. My coworker has been doing this for 30 years and he has major spinal damage and had 5 vertebrae fused with plates and screws, doing shit like that. Make the job easier, not harder
I am impressed, I reckon most mechanics would have missed that second screen. Well done !
I was thinking the same thing, this was well done.
Just luck really, he also did not know about it until he did the reverse flush and drove this out enough to see the end. As with others, I think he should check the fuse as well.
@@miceinoz1181 Luck improves dramatically with thoroughness and not cutting corners. I take my hat off to this lad who does the former and never the latter.
It's rare to see Ray appear to struggle on a job, so mere mortals would have no hope on this truck.
I do mobile mechanic work myself, and one of my regular customers has 2 of these trucks. And I assure you, I hate life any time I ever see one of those damned trucks.
As an owner of a 6.0 L F250, honestly, the truck isn't that bad. There are a few things that re a pain, especially towards the back of the engine, and you find yourself laying on top of the engine, but that isn't actually uncommon on many modern trucks / SUVs with such short hoods. I'm told it's a lot easier to remove the cab to get back there, but for most smaller jobs, just lay on the engine.
Ray went WAY out of his way to remove the fan and shroud to get the belt on, but since he doesn't work on these trucks often, and didn't spend time looking up all the shortcuts published on the forums, he took the safe route. You can definitely get the belt on, but you do have to remove the upper radiator mounts and the alternator shroud. Looks like it was removed before, since it is broken on this truck. Not sure how much time it took to remove the fan and shroud, but it only takes about 5 minutes to get the alternator shroud off...
I work as a diesel mechanic, and coolant filters are very common on large diesel engines such as the MP7 the cat C12 and the MP8, it helps to remove contaminants from the coolant system and they do work
Sorry I was joking that the orifice tube was called a coolant filter yes older Cummins had water filters with nitrate inhibitors folded in with the filter mostly for conditioning the H20 for scaling Wich happens when aluminum reacts to the antifreeze helps keep the scales from loading up in the radiator
I could watch you all day long, I particularly love your sense of humour.
Really admire your work ethic. You methodically take things apart without swearing at engineers. Good job.
Good morning all!
The coolant filter also dispenses a small amount of conditioner to prevent corrosion, cavitation of the cylinder walls . Especially in wet sleeve truck , tractor engines
why don't they just use full blend coolant that already has the additives.. or better yet, design an engine that doesn't cavitate so much.. like most other major manufactures already have? This is creating a solution to a problem that shouldn't exist..
Nice to hear something I never knew, it proves there are still top guys out there,
Gotta let you know...my wife's Air Fryer made it's done sound...and...I said "dooo dee dooo". Way to go Ray....now you've got me doing it.
Back some time ago, h/d diesels ran filters on the coolant system. 1) To catch impurities. 2) The filters came with an additive to help prevent cavitation damage to cylinder liners.
I saw a video on that subject, don't remember the poster but cavitation can cause some pretty impressive wear on wet liners.
@@kenore4003 customer only wanted main & rod bearings rolled in his cat3406b. While doing that I kept getting dripped on by coolant from #3. He said he'd be back later, had to go hot load to OR. He bought a new engine in ID.
From my 6.0 experience it is to filter out casting sand and debris from the cooling system so it doesn't plug the oil cooler and egr cooler.
Diesel engines use a coolant filter as more of a sca additive means so they don’t have to manually add it to the system. It does provide some filtration but it’s overall purpose is to slowly add the sca additive to protect the coolant system from cavitation issues as well as bi-metal corrosion.
110% correct , though it is strange to see it on a small ford like this and it is way over kill.
Neither of you guys are familiar with the 6.0 powerstroke problems then. They were produced so fast, many suffered from excess casting sand still in the block which caused oil cooler blockages, which led to a whole host of secondary problems.
A coolant filter added to one was one of the critical fixes to help extend the life of the cooling system components, including the egr cooler, etc.
@Marc Wallace@@scubasteve7946 Zoinks and Jinkies! Another mystery solved by you darned kids! Ford would have gotten away with it if it weren't for you.
They also should've used this type of filter on the late 90's Early 2000's Ford Taurus that had the 3.0L cast iron engines. They were always full of rust, even with straight anti-freeze. I know I had 4 of them. 1 I bought new.
6.0s did not have that issue like the 6.4s. These filters are there to keep the oil cooler from plugging which is extremely difficult to replace on these engines.
Your patience and sense of humor is inspiring Ray!
Well that trucks like the jelly of the month club. The gift that keeps on giving.
Ray, may I suggest that you use nitrogen to use as a flushing pressure medium. Air can cause acids into the system due to moisture and cause premature compressor failure. Old AC guy here. Absolutely love your channels. I watch frequently.
Even worse, Ray used Florida air!
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 At least he didnt use the "bad south main auto air". Very old SMA reference
Nice series of vids, I feel your pain, I've been doing that sort of thing for 35 years now. A word of caution, the oil in the system is fairly nasty (it will strip paint) so try not to spray it on yourself or the vehicle while flushing. The compressor fuse will probably be blown due to the clutch coil being shorted out when the bearing failed. Keep up the good work. Leon
I was running through a checklist in my head for possible causes and that was the first thing I thought of as well, the trials and tribulations of working on a ford.
@@maxmcarnage7642 Because no other vehicle would blow a fuse...sure...that makes a lot of sense...
Leon: Re don't get any ol oil/refrig on self.... No wonder I feels Sick ?
@@buckhorncortez LOL
@@buckhorncortez Don't get me wrong I'm sure just about anything would blow a fuse in that situation, I was just commenting on the joys of working on a ford, there was a reason in our shop every time one came in the techs would scatter like roaches, except for the high end vehicles I've worked on every make and model on the market and Ford is by far the most difficult brand to repair due to the way they were engineered
All I can say is you are the BEST technician I have ever had the pleasure to watch work.Thank you for your patience,honesty and man you are the greatest.
Thks
VERY PROFESSIONAL WORK, THE FLUSH KIT PREVENTED A COME BACK. WELL DONE
Some diesels use coolant filters/conditioners to prevent cylinder liner erosion.
Yes but this engine doesn't have liners
Alot of tractors and other heavy equipment I've worked on have coolant filters. A case IH tech told me apart from just filter contaminants they release new additives and help prevent electrolysis.
Man just got to tell u I love your positive attitude when everything has gone crazy, this makes u a very good and level headed mechanic..keep the greasy side down my man
Ha ha! Had to comment "I do like to do things the hard way!" Soooo true. Love you videos, as an old mechanic, I resemble that remark. Thanks Ray.
Hey Ray buddy, from one professional to another, (30+ year Master HVACR tech now retired) I would like to suggest something to you since I know after watching you work for a few years now, how you like to make things better and correct things you see that are wrong with vehicles you work on, next time you work on an A/C system get you some Nylog blue and get in a habit of using it all the time, you will be surprised at how well it works to not only lubricate threaded connection but to seal all your joins in an A/C system from possible and future micro leaks in the system. Just thought you would like to look into Nylog red and blue. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much for mentioning Nylog. In your estimation regarding Schrader valves. Do they leak at the stem or around the threads. I always find a small leak of refrigerant.
@@Markb8608 I find the lower cone shaped gasket is where most service cores leak, the only way the stim will leak is if is bent or broken from manhadeling it. I use Nylog blue on all service cores also. Have never had a leak from cores since using it. Ps just remember a little dab will do the job, that stuff is like maple syrup. It's like leak blocker and never goes away or hardens.
It matters to ME too, Ray! I ALWAYS install belts with the writing/letters/numbers facing the appropriate direction! Just wanted you to know it matters to me too! 😎👍👍
Makes them easier to read and looks professional too.
When i change belts on hvac systems with multiple belts,I have to line up all of the writing and it all has to be in same direction! It will also tell you have slipage
you have become my goto night time chill out Ray. listening to you waffle on to the cars and create miracles. stay safe and happy Brother. UK
The people saying that it's for SCAs to prevent cavitation are way off. That was a recommendation for the IDIs (and to a lesser degree the 7.3 Powerstroke) and isn't why someone would install a coolant filter on a 6.0L.
6.0's have a lot of issues. One involves sediment in the cooling system. The blocks are sand cast and between residual sand and other contaminants the water pump, oil cooler, and egr cooler can become gummed up, leading to an overheating/dead engine. One of the MANY fixes is to install a coolant bypass between the heater core and degass bottle and install a filter on it. Over time it filters out particulates and contaminants and reduces the likelihood of catastrophic failure. The coolant filter bypass is one of the many modifications recommended to "bulletproof" a 6.0 Powerstroke.
Coil spring swap, DIY ground wires with bolts through them, countless other mods... It isn't just a pile, someone went out of their way to make it a nightmare.
I bet we'll see it listed on craigslist in a month for 30k.
This truck is 2wd and they always came with coil springs . Nobody swapped in an 05+ 4x4 setup like you’re thinking
@@johnp6577 good eye - I missed that it was 2wd.
The filter has to do with a MAJOR weakness of the 6.0 It has the oil cooler, embedded under the intake. If the cooling vanes get clogged (a frequent occurrence), major work to replace it.
Especially on the E350s(Vans).
Thank you, Larry. I'm sure Ray will appreciate the information.
it's the gold coolant that's the problem.
False. This is not a frequent occurrence. Improper cooling system maintenance or lack of is the only issue. Have serviced hundreds of 6.0s with the factory oil cooler over 300k
People who don't know about 6.0s believe in all the internet myths.
Ray's phone call sound needs to be made into a ringtone.
Some people were just born to enjoy a specific career path! This dude was born with a wrench in hand!
For the light duty diesel trucks (Ford, Ram, GM) these are usually an aftermarket add-on bypass filter kit and do not contain the SCA (cavitation additive). I believe the CAT filter shown is just a filter, no conditioner.
"Now it's time that I thought it would never come" Ray as always u made my day.
I wish we lived closer you would be my go to mechanic, I never get tired of your channel
Rainman's quotes - "where fingers go to die" and later - "I'll escalate until one of us is dead". These must go into the Rainman's hall of fame.
The 6.0L Powerstroke has an oil cooler in the engine. Lore has it that these would get blocked by particles in the coolant system including residual casting sand from the engine block. The coolant filter may prevent those issues.
Can't wait for part 3 😁 Keep up the good fight Ray.
Just imagine a world where fan housings and Rays lived in harmony.....what a world.
Your patience is amazing
In Earthmoving (my trade) it is called a coolant conditioner. It circulates a small amount of the coolant to keep the condition to an acceptable level.
Ray, coolant filters are popular to prolong the life of the EGR Cooler. Which is a common failure of that cooler on 6.0 litre Powerstrokes. There is a company called Bullet proof Diesel that started putting them on 6.0 Powerstrokes. They also have engine oil coolers, another common failure point. Both coolers are much improved over the stock Ford parts. Guy Franks
So what you're saying is that there is an entire industry based around fixing Fords crap engines with more bolt on crap..
Story checks out.
"Money shot." Thanks for the laugh! 😂
My father was a mechanic and he would take the first layer of dirt, grease, and grime off his hands before coming home. At home he would scrub up with Lava bar soap and a brush and that cleaned his hands very well. I always used his Lava and bought my own for going off to college. I was surprised that I was the only person to use Lava at school.
Hi Ray, I was taught to always fit any type of belt so that you could read the legend printed on it, this was to aid refitting properly after removal so that the correct direction of rotation was maintained to avoid stressing the belt and maintain part longevity.
I have seen that cooling filter before. It is used most when the coolant system is dirty. Often when they have only used water.
So it does filter out rust and other dirt from the coolant water/system.
What the heck are you looking at it's a air conditioning system not a radiator.
Reason 5,261 why I still love my 7.3 powerstroke!!!
You sir, have the patience of a saint in working on that AC unit. Good luck in finding the problem.
Big diesels had coolant filters with additives I think.
Yes, my CAT 3208 in my motorhome has one.
At the end; I was thinking blown fuse in the A/C circuit (after the compressor clutch seized). But I'm no expert. I'll be back for the fix (whatever it is).
9:07 my favorite, PB Blaster, good stuff.
Someone must really love that truck.
Hello! I own a 6.0 and the reason why you run a coolant filter is because the oil cooler on the truck is one of it's failure points along with the EGR cooler. The oil cooler in the 6.0 frequently clogs and causes pretty massive issues, we install the coolant filter to help reduce the amount of particulates in the system to avoid clogging. The coolant passes through the oil cooler before heading to the EGR cooler so when the oil cooler goes typically you lose the EGR cooler also.
The coolant filter helps remove the casting sand/particulates to increase Oil Cooler and in turn EGR cooler life at the cost of like $100 initial install of the cooler and a new filter every year for ~$8. Sure it isn't necessary but when you have an engine with some pretty serious issues you get all the help you can get.
Sounds like a box of rocks...PERFECT😁👍Thanks Ray and have a good one today 💯All the class B and A I drove had coolant filters. I thought it was a good idea for all engines😁
Man you are a fantastic mechanic!! An absolute bad ass mechanic!!
21:33 "... It's where fingers go to die." LOL
The coolant filter is not much of a filter, more of a time release additive pack. Many semis have them, never seen 1 on a pickup. Keep up the great videos!
wrong, sorry
Yep, I have a coach with a 8.9l Cummins ISL and it also has a coolant filter with the time release tablets in it.
I've seen those on diesel engines that have a wet sleeve cylinder wall. The filter adds a film to the side walls on the inside of the the coolant passage. Instead of the piston causing cavitation and removing metal, the film comes off the sleeve instead of micro particles from the sleeve wall.
'Piston causing cavitation'??🤣🤣🤣
@@simonilett998 yes. It's physics. Pressure differentials between the combustion chamber and the internal cooling chamber cause cavitation on the inside of the coolant jackets. Pistons don't go up and down perfectly. They kind of micro wobble. That wobble mixed with different pressures causes cavitation in the coolant side.
@@MrNofruitjuice Ok, fair enough. I guess that must create high/low pressure zones around the cylinder liners. I'm guessing it causes something similar to what happens in an ultrasonic cleaner, or at the trailing edge of a boat propeller?
@@simonilett998 yup, exactly. Then if the film isn't restored by either not changing the filter or bad service intervals it eventually erodes the liner completely away. Over time it can puncture a hole causing coolant to go into the combustion chamber or oil galley. You can imagine what would happen if that occurred under load.
I am not a mechanic. I know enough to be dangerous. That said, I really find your videos informative, and entertaining. Something that's rare for videos on the old tube. You have loads more patience than I do, I think if I were doing that particular repair, I would be using f-bombs like commas. Keep up the good work.
The belt thing isn't just you, it's anyone that deals with belts. I deal with industrial air handlers that sometimes have 5 or 6 belts and I like the words on each belt to line up and all the letters to face the same direction.
Have a great day Ray! Here in Toronto Canada it’s going to be a scorcher today. Keep up the good work buddy! I really enjoy your videos
Yea, its going to be 40 (centagrade).
Ray an absolute great result and I enjoyed the fact you very Farley used your battery drivers which to me made it more pleasurable to watch as except for you spitting dust and grime out it was quiet😁😁 but for all your costumers sakes keep using the battery tools as they’re paying the bill!! Great job again sir
FORD = Full Of Repairability Deficiencies 🤣
I can hear the abject suffering in Ray's voice...what an absolute grind this truck is
In the 90s we were installing aftermarket coolant filters on ford diesel engines. The problem they were having was the sand or rust particles in the system. Coolant flow was forced right into the first two cylinders and over time blasted a hole through into the combination chamber. We'd have the block sleeved and the filter would prevent it from happening again.
This is one challenging job, very enjoyable video for us, very frustrating for you now that you have to troubleshoot the electrical issue. Keep up the great work! 👍🏻
ok ray. that is a coolant filter. diesels require anti cavitation additives in the coolant. those filters contain a time release chemical for that purpose. it is really more important on an engine that has wet sleeves. but it can help on a bored block also. you can look up supplement coolant additives to read the specifics.
at least somebody knows the correct purpose of this, not really a filter as such.
Didn’t know that, neat
After 45+ years of being a "rubber flexing person" working in and on steam boilers, lifting too much heavy iron, and swinging hammers, I too relate to loss of hand dexterity and bone parts that don't bend very far. Watching you work around automotive "engineers" who design stuff that they believe won't be needed to be replaced is amazing. Keep your videos coming, and all your opinions as well, as it's funny and relatable.
As a retired ASE Certified Master Tech I’ll add this. The use of a coolant filter will help clean any cooling system. As far as the choice of a filter with or without a corrosion inhibitor, in part depends on the type of coolant being used in the cooling system. Some extended life coolants are not compatible with some corrosion inhibitors.
I've seen coolant filters used on a heavy machinery and considering it looks like a city work truck it is possible that it would be part of their maintenance schedule. Is it worth it on a F350? Probably not but it certainly isn't hurting anything and if their intent is get the maximum service life out of the related parts like the radiator and water pump it certainly will help. Also a visual reminder to check the coolant corrosion inhibitor levels more often I'd guess.
Coolant filter releases a compound over time that coats the fluid contacted lining of the cylinder walls, so in the case of cavitation caused by combustion vibration the cavitation does not eat a hole in the cylinder wall.
so you're saying it isn't really a filter, that it is a time release additive?
13:08 lmfao "money shot!" 😂
Ray, we certainly appreciate you still video'n your work. Considering your hunkered down in a massive pile of work "sheit". Some folks could have easily been like "screw this!" and saddle up into a high octane work hustle to pump stuff out that door, but ya still hung with us. Even cleaned up the other guys mess substantially.Thanks!
P.S. ANGRY PLIERS!!!!! Haven't seen em in awhile!
7:36 coolant filter. Sand comes loose from the engine's coolant passages and causes chaos for the emissions equipment.
First time commenter, from my small knowledge of the 6.0 powerstroke. A coolant filter is a must as it prevents casting sand etc from making it's way into the oil cooler and egr cooler as well as extending the life of the water pump, radiator etc. Casting sand and fine particles can make its way into the oil cooler, blocking it up which leads to high oil temperatures which can cause engine damage as well as melting the standpipe if it gets hot enough. These are just my two cents and may not be 100 percent correct. Awesome vids ray, keep up the great work. Cheers from NZ.
you know.. most other auto companies get rid of the casting sand before putting the engine together, way more efficient than adding a bunch of needless parts
Great repair! Working on vehicles since I was 5 I'm 63 and diesels area favorite. Awesome work.
"It's like phalange purgatory down here, where fingers go to die!" I'm still laughing!!!
In the mid 80's the price of fuel started to come back down. But it had quadrupled so it was still expensive. Manufacturers all came out with diesels. I was on a trip with a buddy and his new truck. It was loud. Bogged down on steep mountain roads. So heavy it sank into the back country roads. Really hard to winch out when stuck. But the absolute worst part was stinking like fuel all of the time. Oh yeah, and it cost almost twice what my gas truck did.
I myself didn't know what that filter was for but after reading all the comments what it's for I have a really good idea now myself thanks people great job ray on the ac on the truck 🚚
"Money shot"! lol. Good sense of humor for Monday.
I’m sure you’ve figured this out by now. Job 1: make sure fan clutch is plugged in 2: check low pressure switch ( paper clip jumper) Clutch will come on!great job !
If fuse is not blown.
Coolant filter. Very common on larger diesels. The 6.0 benefits because of the internal oil cooler often plugs with coolant sludge if not filtered. Some filters have a zinc anode in them to take electrolysis wear so the engine doesn’t.
The coolant filter typically has a charge of Supplemental Coolant Additive. Basically SCA forms a protective coating on the cylinder walls and protects against cavitation eating away the cylinder walls. Ultimately, the SCA coats the cylinder walls and acts as a sacrificial layer .
The reason coolant filters exist are for ELC (extended life coolant) for wet sleeve engines. Wet sleeves engine have one fatal flaw and that’s cavitation erosion otherwise called Cummins disease (had a few old guys at various jobs explain this to me). Around the cylinder sleeves for the pistons there are low and high pressure zones that when coolant flows around them actually cause the fluid to expand and contract rather abruptly causing microscopic bubbles called voids, along with the vibration from the pistons moving up and down these voids slowly chip away at the exterior of the cylinder sleeve and take away the metal. That coolant filter has an additive that goes into the coolant that coats the engine sleeves in a sacrificial coating, so while this is all happening the voids chip away the additive instead of the sleeves. In other words it’s a sacrificial coating used to prevent sleeves from getting damaged by small bubbles, hope this helps!
Ray, I own a 2005 6.0 Powerstroke F250. The Ford coolant contains silica in suspension, there is an oil cooler that is submersed in the oil to balance coolant and oil temps. When the differential between these two gets consistently more than 15 degrees, the silica will fall out of suspension and clog the oil cooler which can then cause an EGR cooler failure. This often results in steam in the cylinder which will blow head gaskets or cause the heads to lift, stretching the head bolts. To me, folks should run an EC1 coolant that does not contain the silica. A coolant filter is not a bad thing, but the cause is silica in the coolant. Bullet proof the 6.0, yes, but also change the coolant and EGR delete, and for goodness sakes, maintain these engines properly!
A little tip for those AC fittings: whack the larger part of the fitting a few times to "shock" it with something metal.
It’s call The Appliance Of Science
Seems counterintuitive to me to have to remove the very thing that's supposed to make changing a serpentine belt easier.but meh,I guess there's a reason(still seems kinda counterintuitive to me).great video as always.✌️👍
Apparently they didn't want to make the engine compartment any longer.
@@NY411Info yes seems that way lol.
Because Ford
Pulling That Housing Off Was The Best Route 👍🏽
loving this series - great to see you challenged a little - we all know its not going to leave broken - looking forward to #3
The coolant filter is something we see on semi-trucks. These filters help to maintain proper engine heat transfer by filtering solid contaminants from the coolant and by minimizing corrosion and deposits in the cooling system. since this is a diesel engine this is a good thing
I don't like that the compressor and its lines are so close to an exhaust manifold. My brother works as a shop mechanic for a rock quarry. He works on from pick-ups to 75 Ton dump trucks. The pickups are among the worst to work on and dealerships do most of the work due to complexities as you show. I would guess this fix was somewhere close to $2K with all the labor and parts involved. All this for a truck with 300K+ miles.
Have you tried to buy a replacement lately? New truck prices have gone silly. Repairs have become easier to justify on an old truck.
Early 6.0l engines had casting sand left in crevices in the block. The safety net was to put in a coolant filter just incase some sand found its way into the coolant over time.