How To Achieve The PERFECT Paint Finish (Must Know Tips)
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- čas přidán 17. 08. 2023
- Don't be fooled by the simple appearance of paint-it takes a lot of skill and practice to achieve a polished, flawless finish. In this video, we'll show you some of the most common wet sand (color sand) and polish techniques and explain how to use them to achieve a perfect paint finish.With this knowledge, you'll be able to achieve a flawless paint finish on your own in no time! Watch the video to learn tips on how to use a rotary polisher vs dual action polisher, block sanding, and more. Then put these techniques to use and get ready to achieve a beautiful, mirror finish!
#sylvesterscustoms
Social Media and Vender Links
Filmed and Produced by Blown Grit Productions:
/ blowngrit
Sylvesters Customs Instagram:
/ sylvesterscustoms
email: SylvestersCustoms@yahoo.com
Jason Kilmer (Master Paint Corection Guru)
/ jasonkillmer
Product Links
Lake Country Pad Washer amzn.to/3YCH6lP
3" Polisher: amzn.to/3E35RhC
Regulator: amzn.to/44lCD85
Lighting we use:
Par 38 Cans (x4)
amzn.to/43NEWRM
Bulbs (x4)
amzn.to/3Xd8JkR
Can Pole Mounts (x4)
amzn.to/43U7QQh
c-stand
amzn.to/3Cqyowt
Power strip (zip tie to pole)
amzn.to/3J3avPo - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Your best episode yet guys! I love that you’re taking the time to not only explain the theory behind your process, but you’re also doing it real time. And that Before and After shit says it all!
Great job!
Thank you so much
Ive been using V5700 for about 7 or 8 years doing 4-5 coats with DT895 and VH7795 no matter the temperature. This clear has excellent film build especially for burying stripes. I've also been down the rabbit hole figuring out the colou sanding process. A lot of trial by fire. I get better results starting with P600 too.
P600 block
Quick P800 block
P1000 block
P1200 block
1000 Trizact with interface
3000 Trizact interface
3M 36060 with wool at 1800rpm
3M 36065 foam to refine the wool
3M finishing polish 06068 at 1200rpm
Sunlight or infrared heat makes a huge difference on how the paint buffs. I use IR at 170F at 18" from panel for about 20 minutes two or three times heating and cooling. I also check panel temperature with a laser thermometer every 5-10 minutes. I use a Dewalt without soft start. I also found a 1" backer pad for my mini buffer i use with trimmed down foam pads to get in tight spots. Ive been trying out an LED light that mounts on the side of the buffer to put light right on the panel. I worked with a fair complected redhead that got his buffer cord wound up in the buffer and around his neck. His face turned beet red. We laughed our asses off before deciding to pull the plug. Fun day.
Black and darker colrs are killers to buff. No matter the shop light, it always shows different in the sun.
Ill average between 3-4 hours per panel to sand and buff depending on the size and shape. I figure it as labor time. I dont comp this time due to the number of hours and detail.
Flow coating is old school, over rated and a waste of time and materials. With these newer high solids clear, you can get the same results with less cost in labor and product. Sorry so long. Just trying to contribute. Great video. Not too much info out there about this. Thanks for taking the time.
We appreciate the detailed comment. You obviously have the same passion we’re after not many speak and understand our language 🙌🏻
dont apologize mate great see others with the same passion in our never ending search for that flawless finish
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
I try and comment as you go along in the video. That's why it seems so broken up. I like to share what I find along the way as well. That's why I appreciate people posting these informative videos.
This is what I love about Sylvester's custom channel. The detail you go into and the real time makes this second to none. I have watched this through twice now stopped and and gone back over many times to get it all. I can't thank you and Mike enough.
You are very welcome
The old argument on sanding grits. I've always preached, "the courser the paper the flatter the panel". Sure you can get rid of orange peel by starting with 1000-1200, but you will still have that urethane ripple. Great video.
Thank you!!
I was going to mention that also. Honestly, If your worried about going deeper then the orange peel, then you likely didn’t put enough clear on the vehicle. I believe you need to cut through the orange peel and slightly further. I like to flatten the clear entirely. I’ve gone only enough to only remove the peel. Then in the right light I could see ripples in the clear. Now, I start with a heavier grit like 800 and block the peel completely flat not just until the peel is mostly flat. Guys that block clear will understand what I mean with that statement. Anyway, From there I go through my grades I start with 800 I end with 5000. I do use a DA, with a stiff intermediate pad when I do 4000 and 5000. With soapy water and I run the da a little faster around 1700rpm, but when I’m done. I barely have to buff it to get that shine that I’m looking for. I’m old so I still use the rotary.
I always start with a wool pad and then I switch over to a 3M medium pad before I use a polishing pad for my sealer.
What was the name of the blue, I want to change my 66 olds 442. It’s Laguna blue, but in the right light it sometimes looks teal so I’d like to switch to a blue has some depth, but still has those silver metallics to give it that look for an old-school car. Great videos. Thanks for the information.
Thank you so much for putting this out. I recently completed my first full paintjob on my hot rod truck and it turned out great, but I have been chasing getting rid of scratches in the wet sand phase. This video answered a lot of my questions of what I was doing wrong. Thanks for doing what you do!
Great to hear! Thank you
Another great video! Thanks Travis and Mike!
Our pleasure!
Another great video!! Many thanks!! I'm sure that I will be coming back here to refresh my memory in the future.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love polishing and I have done so many cars now that I can really use anything on any clear…The amount of time I spent working on big black Lincoln’s and on soft paint was just insane ..I chased my tail for I don’t know how long before learning the magic technique!!!! It’s called patience and cleanliness… That’s my 2 cents on what grit to use …:
The soft start circuitry greatly reduces inrush current but also paves the way for brushless motors. A 10 amp motor can see 18 when first turned on and today's printed circuit boards can't handle that much briefly as lighter, small components are used and it's pulse width modulation to achieve different speeds. I tease as my buffer is 12 lbs. made "Sioux Tools", all polished alum case and twin hooks on back. I am probably 20 older than you Travis and say our dashboards where Metal and most had no seat belts. I do enjoy picking up tips and this video is jammed pack. Thanks so much for sharing.
DK, Omaha. ASE Master, retired.
Thank you dean!!
Very fortunate to have you and your channel. I appreciate craftsmanship, attention to detail- I'm about to start working on my first car ever - and learning from someone who is passionate about their work, then provides info and details.... it's great!
Thank you very much ! We appreciate you watching!
These Boys are spot on with their info! you all are doin a great job payin if forward!
Much appreciated!
Thanks for taking the time to show us greenhorns like me how to do the job right! Much appreciated!
Our pleasure!
Such great videos.
Glad you like them!
In my limited body work career [more because I’m a perfectionist with it…] have noticed that I chased scratches, etc often as well due to contamination in the paper. I’ve found that wet sanding the final coats seemed the only way… I learned from you today that orange peel can happen after cure 😳 wow.
Liked, sub’d & shared… 😎😎
Thank you!!
Wow.great video
Thank you!
brilliant video so well thought out & put together with detailed information ...
thank you very much for your time & effort love this content...
people look at me dumb founded when i tell them theres easily 300 to 500 hours just for paint & polish stages depending on size of the vehicle & end finish wanted....
Thanks again from down under
Yeah adds up quick that’s for sure. Thank you
I love this guys videos wish you posted more often
Thank you very much! If you want more see us daily on instagram 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Excellent deep dive into Concur correction techniques. I follow Killmer as well, great wealth of useful information. It would be cool to show some out door sun shots of the final product.
Thanks again !
Thank you!!
superb, thank you from the UK
You are welcome!
This is one of the best videos on the internet. There are so many little things that get glanced over when guys make these types of videos. Can you make a video like this on getting straight body lines? Detailed like this on how to get a straight line on the side of a 67/68 Camaro.
Thank you. We actually have a video specifically on that already out 👌🏻
Love your videos! Major help to those of us in the garage but wanting to best quality we can get based on our work and not on our ability to buy expensive tools. Your suggestion on acrylic blocks has made a huge difference on my project, used them from primer through cut and buff and it's dead flat and like a mirror. You guys are awesome for putting this out for us for free and I want you all to know how much it's appreciated!!
One question, I used a sharpie for a guide coat on the clear for the cut and buff and it seemed to work excellent. Do you have an opinion on that at all if you've tried it? Just curious if there's any down side because I'm not the expert!
Super happy to hear that. I’ve never done that with sharpie but as long as it sands off I’d think you are good 👌🏻
Howzit. Your channel content is perfection. If I use your methods & adapt them to my small personal bike jobs then there will be a huge improvement
That’s awesome to hear thank you!
If by bike jobs, you are talking motorcycles then yes. Fenders, tank and large areas. But on the frame, gussets and such, if painting instead of powder coating, then I would be using the 2-3" unit on air as long as it's 1,200 RPM and not faster. To easy to catch edges, tear up your pad and perhaps the paint. Best of luck, because I enjoy the learning. ASE Master since 78, retired.
Good one
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey Sylvester, are there cars that you've completed that are out there doing the show circuits? I'm out in Colorado and I'd love to be able to see how these high-end finishing techniques look in person, I feel like the depth of the details just can't be fully appreciated in video. Thanks for creating all of this incredible content and showing how to achieve these beautiful paint jobs.
Currently we have this 47 Cadillac pushing to be completed at the grand national roadster show in Pomona ca but outside of that I’m not sure. The 61 impala I am building in house will likely get trailered around to shows if I can break away.
I find myself achieving same results now with an orbital sander as I use to by hand especially with a new compressor that can keep up
Whatever works for you. But they are better blocked by hand.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I still do hand blocking if I'm doing high level paint refinish also
So, I wet sanded the roof of my 60 Chevy starting from 600 grit up to 3000. Guide coated between grits, & buffed with wool pad, & with the 1st foam pad thus far. I see some scratches yet, in the tubular fluorescent lights, but pulling it outdoors, it looks fantastic. Let it go? Or go back to more buffing with the wool pad? Thanks, in advance!
After wool pad you should see no scratches before moving to foam. If wool doesn’t get then out you may have to drop back to 1000-1500 grit and redo areas with excessive scratches.
Keep up the good work I have a quick question vp2050 can be wet sanded?
Thank you. Yes it can
Great video's learned a lot..What color Blue is on the panel piece in this video? Please :) Thank you
Thank you. It’s called teal later from kindig it
Awesome video's learning a bunch! Sir for us half color deficient people is that a HOK oriental blue over silver? Thanks again. SUBSCRIBED :)
Thank you. No it’s actually a color called teal later from modern classic
Unrelated to this video but I didn’t know where to ask you. I just picked up a 2004 Mach 1 mustang that has sat out all its life. The hood is a rarity these days. There are places that have the paint missing from weather and the fiberglass strands are actually showing. How would you attack this to bring it back up? Thank you
If you have instagram shoot me pictures or email me to sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com I’ll need to see how bad it is
What clear coat and how many coats do you recommend?. Doing a semitransparent red candy. Primer, sealer, base with candy 3 coats and then clear for x amount of coats. Will be color sanding also as you’ve shown here to an extent.
It’s a hard question because everyone’s gun/distance/tip size/ air pressure/speed etc will change this. I spray slower and I hose it on just before runs happen. I spray close and I use vc5700 ppg vibrance clear out of a 1.4 tip I do 4 coats sometimes 5. Good luck
Can you speed up this curing period of off-gassing by keeping the panels in the sun all day or in a heater room? Any calculations out there for cure time vs heat?
The sun makes a huge difference or if you have an infrared heat lamp.
It's better to let it cure naturally..sun or baking cures outside of clear and traps solvents in clear
Anything like sun or IR will absolutely speed it up but there’s to many variables to be able to give that insight in my opinion. The products vary the spray gun, tip size, painter, how many coats etc
Can you expand on your comment about color correction removes UV protection? Planning to paint my 2005 VW Jetta Wagon TDI in the way you do with show cars. Wanting to use it as practice for when I get to finishing my ‘52 Chevy 3100. Worried now if I go through the color correction process on my daily, the finish will be compromised as it is parked outside.
Thanks for the informative videos. I am completely new to all of this! Thanks!
I wouldn’t worry about it honestly. As the clear dries I was told by a chemist that the UV will rise to the top of the surface and when we sand the top it removes some of it. But you gotta think everyone cuts and buffs. The moral of the story is just use a good quality clear that will last versus some cheap watery clear
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks! I am using all PPG products that you use! Gaining experience with them on the daily then will move to the classic. Thanks!
Great video. How much do you charge per hour for the cutting and buffing
We are currently $85 hr
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thank you for getting back to me
Any suggestions on making ones own wet sanding block?
Just get acrylic sheets and cut whatever you need
I haven’t seen this answered on this channel yet but I may have missed it.
I really love your methodology, but it seems you work a lot with show quality cars. What about guys like me who have a sentimental vehicle they want to paint really nice, but maybe it’s not worth going all the way back to bare metal? How far back should I take it to get a very good paint job, but maybe not competition level job? And how would you go about that?
That’s because anybody who knows this stuff knows it’s labor intensive and it’s not worth risking going over old paint. If it’s sentimental then I recommend taking the time and doing it right. Go to metal so you have piece of mind.
Great video . Just one question :why the small block ? Why not a little linear with sticky back paper ?
Greatings from belgium .
At this stage the bodywork should already be perfect. Smaller block will not hold dirt or dust to scratch. That 600 grit paper linear sells the sticks comes off on the blocks so I quit using it
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you for the information.
I am also skeptical that a block that small is necessary. Maybe I don't have the eye, but I always had good luck with the thin rubber 3m blocks/squeegees. Dirt is dirt and managing the dirt is the most important thing. Managing the dirt means clear some space, more space than you need, clean up, sweep up, (if you are going as hard for perfection like they are wet the floor or mop), the floor gets wet enough from spraying the parts off with the hose, clean a bucket out and fill with water to dunk your blocks and paper, clean the part you are going to sand with your hand and water. I think he's trying to manage dirt by only putting a very small scratch in if a piece of dirt gets under his block because of the very small block. I learned from my father who did show winning body/paint cars into the 2000's. Everything else I've seen them do is more or less exactly what he taught me. I would also finish with a foam pad 3000 grit on a DA. If dirt is the problem, any nibs should be sanded out by the time you get to 3000 or even 1,000 honestly. And if you're throwing away all your microfibers you can probably afford to buy a new foam backer pad and dust off your DA or again you could have a finish work DA. This is the first thing I've seen that I'm skeptical of from this channel, but it may just be the next level of perfection that I'm not willing to go to.
@@justinmiller5130 I assure you we are on a path of trying to get these cars to such a high level finish it’s what it takes.
How long dose it take to cut and buff on average a larger car
10-15 hrs per panel depending on the size could be more on really big cars.
👍✌️❤️
What grits did you start with and work up to before polish?
It’s all in the video if you watch it. 👍
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Ok I'm late to the party, and very informative.. I have to say your puns crossed with the cut scenes... Just saying.. most of us are use to shop lingo.. now I have to call a few friends to find that unicorn piss lubricant
Hey thank you so much we’re glad you enjoyed the video. We appreciate your like and subscribe. Have a wonderful day 😜
And while sanding, don't stop the strokes at the same spot
So flow coating doesn’t work why do people do it and when I did it the finish does look way better and deeper?
Who said it doesn’t work? If you sand through it it doesn’t work. You are missing the point. If you spray 3 coats and sand it then flow coat 3 more coats you do not have 6 to cut and buff you only have 3.
I agree - I flow coated a repair and could see no visible difference whatsoever to the other panel - I think it's a bragging thing @@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
If you want to be really thorough, can you hand polish areas where a power polisher won’t reach? Lots of work obviously.
Yes you can, but you’re going to put in some serious hours.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS You are already putting in some serious hours. 😁
I watched the video. The whole hour and a half. It’s a great video. But unfortunately, what I have learned is that folks don’t come on youtube to learn, they come on to get entertained. I learned from this. The first car I painted was a black car. This included patch panel, body work. Paint, wet sand, polish. The whole job from start to finish. I also started with an old dewalt rotary that had no handle. 3m wool pads and foam pads. That car had every type of blemish that exists. Dry, sags, runs, bugs, ..runs in areas that are terrible, like fender edge lips, learned a ton just by that one car. My advice to anyone interested in this type of work is, u just gotta get out there and do it, and screw up. Take notes of the screw up and correct it. Some things that are part of my ritual is no music when sanding. Or , low music. U have to listen to the paper. And like you said, u can hear when there is something between the paper and the panel. That high pitch zip…..and then u have a straight line scratch. No bucket sanding. Spray bottle only. I remember as a teenager I used to hand polish my cars using old socks, and undershirts. Lol. Times have changed. I cringe when I see car washes wiping down cars with basically, white hotel towels. Especially a big old black dodge dually. Just ruining the finish. This type of wet sand and polish is next level. Its borderline OCD. Sometimes I wish I never got started on this because, u continuously chase perfection, almost always for a customer that doesn’t even know what they are looking at. I also like to use a foam pad after a wool pad and use the same rubbing compound. I feel that it refines it a little more than the wool, and u have better control with a foam verse a wool on those edges. The mini buffer is a good tool to have around key hole and door handle openings, and edges. I recently found micro fiber towels on a roll, at Walmart. They are like 14 dollars. At that price point they are basically use and throw away. I use them for initial panel wipe before 2k primer. Gets the heavy stuff off before using a more proper wipe.
Im curious on your thoughts of sanding the clear with say 600 or 800, or maybe starting with 1000. And then let the clear sit for a few days. And gas out more. Do you ever do that to help prevent shrinkage later on? I have noticed that when u cut open the clear, u can smell it. If u can smell it, its still doing its thing.
My current car I am looking forward to taking it to 5000 by hand and going straight to foam pad. No more wool pad. I know this video is using meguires but the 3D ACA 500. Will eliminate 3000 grit scratches using a foam pad on a rotary, almost effortlessly. I think it will take out 5000 in a matter of seconds.
Curious on what you guys think of using a DA to finish sand the clear? I have tried and tried but I simply cannot get it to work without pig tails. So I stick with hand sanding. I think for a true show car finish. Nothing beats the hand sanding. DA sanding is more for collision work. I have found that the 3M ultrafina blue compound and blue pad work great to remove swirls on black paint. It’s the only 3M compound I own anymore. I threw all my 3M stuff away after the ACA, I found that 3M has fillers in the compound. It will look like glass when its polished out…but give it 2 months and a couple washes and u have stuff start coming back. Just my experience. I am a self taught backyard hack - disclaimer.
Great video. It’s a shame it doesn’t have much more traction.
Thank you so much. All of that was great info. The DA when doing the finish work won’t hold out the clarity either. But yes we have cut them open and just sit in the sun. Once you stop smelling it it’s close but honestly I feel the longer you wait the better it holds out. 👍🏻
I don't think your comments about the ceramic coating are correct. The ceramic coating is much harder than the clear, it provides a very strong UV layer and dirt/grime falls off the finish compared to clearcoat. It really makes a very big difference and it is worth it.
In a OEM application I agree but not in a restoration application. The mill thickness on any restoration is greater than a OEM car. For instance one coat of the primer I use is 3-5 mills and an OEM finish is the same. Then take into consideration all the coats of fillers primers etc these products move and expand and contract. If you ceramic coat them it can cause issues. So all that being said coat them after at least a year of drying. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS So your concern is that if you ceramic coat a restoration finish the expansion/contraction of the thickness of a restoration finish will be problematic with the ceramic coating, correct? If yes, what are the issues you would find with the coating and would a second or third application of the coating over time solve any possible issues?
Is Jason Kilmer the "sandman" and KKK dynamics for the blocks??
Yes however I think he parted ways with the block company. If you message him on Instagram, he makes his own blocks by hand and sells them.
First it was 3M polish, then CSI was the GOAT, now Meguiers 🤦🏻♂️
The polish doesn’t really matter. It’s the process. If you don’t like the video then idk what to tell you