UPGRADE to TWO Ebike Batteries = MORE POWER & Range!!!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Learn how to upgrade your ebike by adding a second lithium battery running in parallel to give your bike more power and range for longer rides. If you are tight on space or don't have money for a new primary battery, this may be a great option for you!
****UPDATE*****
I installed a new unlocked Sabvoton 72200, and I did NOT see a power increase unfortunately. This was quite disappointing.
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Troy Lee Designs STAGE HELMET W/MIPS STEALTH MIDNIGHT
troyleedesigns....
Fly Racing Patrol XC Lite MX Motocross Offroad Gloves
Supra Vaider Cw Skate Shoe
www.amazon.com....
Frame, motor, Sabvoton controller and wheels from Alibaba. Everything else was purchased through various online stores and built in my garage.
Full Spec List:
1. QS273 V3 motor, 3.5T wind
2. Sabvoton 72200 200amp controller - locked version unfortunately. Will be upgrading this at some point.
3. 49ah Panasonic battery with 150 amp max bms. (weighs 37lbs.)
4. 21”front tire & 19” rear tire in 1.85” moto rims. I have Shinko SR241 3.5x19” and 2.75” tires that I will be mounting on this at some point. Just not ready for that hassle yet.
5. Protaper Aluminum Handlebar, 3" Rise, 31.8mm Bar Clamp, 810mm Width. I cut 1.5” off either side.
6. Odi Rogue lock on grips. These things are AWESOME!
7. Shimano Zee 4 piston brakes on both front and back. Front rotor is a SRAM Centerline 220mm with a Hope adapter. Wired for e-brake. These brakes are a definite improvement over Tektros.
8. Two 210mm DNM RCP 2S 550lbs shocks.
9. DNM USD8 front forks.
10. Shimano MX 16 Tooth Single Speed Freewheel.
11. Fender is off a Razor MX650 and cut down to size. Had to get creative in mounting this as there is no mounting holes on the DNM fork. A bit of a ghetto mount but it works.
12. SCOSCHE MAGTFM2 MagicMount XL Universal Flush Mount Holder for Mobile Devices.
13. CAB Motorworks Saddleman seat made in USA. LOVE this seat. SO much better than the Chinese version.
14. Nkomax automatic Smart Bike Tail Light Ultra Bright
15. OneUp Components Composite Pedals. Your feet stick to these like glue.
16. Izumi Chain JET BLACK Easy Running 1/8" BMX
17. FFSA Gravity Light Direct Mount Stem 31.8mm 5D 45mm, with a Direct Mount Stem Stack Billet Spacer 12mm from SOUL
18. RaceFace Narrow Wide 1x Chain Retaining Chainring 5-Bolt 110mm BCD 40t Black with Promax SQ-1 155mm crank arms.
19. 180lbs.
20. Grin Cycle Satiator 72 volt e-bike SMART battery charger.
The bike has a top speed of 62mph verified by GPS. Let me know in the comments if you have any questions!
Follow me on Instagram at:
/ joshstreetd. .
Facebook:
/ josh.street.54
i have bomber with 40Ah 72V battery and I am also thinking about upgrade . battery has 3600 miles under the hood and I have two options..either go for 60 Ah and ruin myself financially (lol) , but i would stilk have the old one as spare ) or add one smaller battery in paralel to existing one. I was thinking about putting it on the top of the body, but inserting it down under is really great idea!! I will definitely consider this approach. thanx much for inspiration 🙏
Pretty cool idea to add the battery there. Personally I would put the controller outside because I have seen people blowing up fets from their sabvotons because it didn't get enough cooling inside the frame. So a risk you might want to keep in mind when riding on hot summer days :)
Thanks man. By the way, have you fried a 273 motor? And if so what was the circumstances?
@@JoshStreetDesign Indeed I have melted my custom wired and ferrofluid qs273. I was running at 37kw peak power and racing against a bmw. The killing blow was actually the fact that qs273 heats up significantly when you are riding slow. So that was pre heating the motor before I did my accelerations.
@@BossManaatti wait that makes no sense you say it heats up more when you're going slow as opposed to going fast? The only times I've really felt mine hot was when I was doing a 55 mph bomb ride for like four miles straight
@@JoshStreetDesign qs273 warms up the same when going 20km/h and 80km/h. Moving air cools down the motor a ton
@@BossManaatti interesting. Some people telling me I need ferrofluid and hub sinks on it. I just don't feel it's necessary as I'm not putting it as much power as your were
Raymond Yu, built my battery and helped with ebike support....great guy!
Awesome, glad to hear it!
You gonna start putting content up soon?
Yea, I'm getting things together to build a custom fiberglass fairing for our current ebike. Im going to video tape the process...ill post pics on my social media sites as well.
Damn your bike looks so good, especially that rear tail 😍
Thanks bro!!!! If we lived closer we could take a ride together!
@@JoshStreetDesign yeah, just some land and a big sea between us :D
@@dszgarage357 check the new one. czcams.com/video/LJEx6iZzZX0/video.html
i dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a way to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can offer me.
@Nathan Axel instablaster ;)
What about charging? The bigger battery doesn't charge first? What about BMS? Both batteries have it? Regards.
Dunno but parallel battery designs are usually frowned upon. The major problem is that both batteries might have BMS that balances cells within the pack, but as one battery gets drained more than other they start to equalize voltage between them so you get a situation where one battery charges the other one, this can have excess stress, heat and loss of potential battery capacity. The next problems is the wiring as when connecting parallel batteries, generally the battery on shorter and thicker wire gets drained more than battery more further down the line, this is usually subverted by having all parallel batteries wires connected exactly with the same resistance and length wire. High amp situations are especially critical in this kind of scenario. I see your adapter is probably a big problem as the drain wires are connected directly to contacts of the first battery, however if you connect the closest plug to the large capacity battery first, the problem isn't so prominent. Also when charging, you should always charge the two at the same time and at all costs avoid connecting two different voltage potential batteries in parallel as this will cause massive amounts of current to start flowing, yet again using BMS usually stops the worst from happening.
Thanks for your input. I do charge these at the same time and they are the same voltages, that is specified in the video. I haven't noticed any negatives of yet only positive increases. Hopefully it will continue in that direction haha
I installed the New 72200 and I did NOT see a power gain unfortunately.
mate, using male (going by the pin, not the housing) XT connectors on your powered side is not a good idea. All it takes is one scrap of wire (or your finger if wet/higher voltages) or a connectors softened by heat to short out your battery - or in your case, should that connector happen to work loose while your riding it wouldn't take much to then short out your main pack inside your battery box... Using the female pin connectors means its at least 'touch safe'. I get that 'thats what the 2nd battery came with' but thats why you dont use these connectors to parallel batteries. Change for Andersons or use some other connector entirely and you mitigate that risk pretty much 100%.
I want to add more ahs to my battery. Didn't see how you splaced together stock battery to extra battery to controller. I have a compartment enclosed in garmata moto seat. Probably fit 20aahs extra. My stock one is 40AHs. I average 28 miles max per charge. I need 60miles+ per charge. I have a 72150. But not tune yet. I need to turn up regen to max. Also which wires to hookup wheel lock and ebrakeing. So don't use reg brakes. Thx for any help. And do you know anyone to build batteries.
Good idea with battery, plus nice seat Josh
Winter over here now, ain’t been on mine for three weeks, last time soaked
Test rode new bike last week ended up hospital man throttle was set at like 1000ms so put me into the steel bollards
Shock psi at 120psi so all over the place had surgery the other day, leg wide open from pedal
Cool video man good to see you one here
Anf Hughes Facebook see you on diy e bike etc
Dude, what?!?!? YOU crashed that hard???? what exactly happened? I don't think my acceleration changes no mater what I have done to the settings. You look jacked in your profile pic btw, fellow lifter here.
Shit!...😳 I love ebikes but, I haven’t gotten to anything that powerful!....,,,,,,yet!😎🤣
Nice garage . Looks like a store
haha, thanks. We're a bit "organized" over here. Need to get the floor coated though. That's coming.
Hey Josh that's awesome with the second battery. I left you a message on another video if you can answer the question I would really appreciate it. You sure tear up those trails it looks like so much fun. I watch these videos and see people riding with no gear or gloves an I always say put some gloves on an a helmet eye protection causes when you go down your gonna wish you had gloves on with also your other riding gear. Love the video great job also great advice. Ride safe an God Bless.
Thanks dude I appreciate it. Yeah gear is definitely important. What was your question about the battery?
@@JoshStreetDesign how much for the build and how much for the custom battery?
@@zenith9671 custom battery was like 250 bucks. I think I have at least 5,500 to 6,000 into it
Great Video, immense detail, I need a battery like that main one you have, any dimensions or source i can use? thanks in advance.
Awesome build! I could not find the rear fender on the list . Where can I get one? Is that a Suron fender adapted?
Thanks
Yes it's the extended sur ron fender
Man i really dig the dual suspension on the rear. Can you make a video on how you made that work or was this a kit?
How's it going...
So yeah, I have basically the same frame as you that I got from Alibaba.
I recently purchased a Subvaton 150a controller, 5000W rear Risun Motor wheel, and the TFT750..
I'm having a hard time finding a new battery that will fit in my frame.
My current battery is a 72V 26ah 80BMS Samsung and need to upgrade to at least a 40ah with a 150BMS.
Where did you get your battery or do you have any suggestions for me where to get a battery that will accomodate my 150a controller and will fit in my frame..
Thanks ..
WTF SKID..
You answer other questions but not mine..
Fucking GOOF!!!
@@e-bikehobo9764 He must not like you
Damn he really did didn’t he
Thank you for making this video I'm having the same problems much appreciated 💯👍👍😁
Very welcome bro, thanks for watching!
@@JoshStreetDesign does the extra battery have a bms sorry if I missed that man
@@racerx2095 yes it does! : )
Solder. Not a fan of high amperage with crimp alone. It's what we do in electric towbarless airplane tractors. They pull anywhere from 20A-800A!! Just crimp had a heat issue and power loss. Just my experiences, I'm just a guy from some place rambling... Nice bike tho, Dig it.
See I did the crimp because I've read in the electricians code handbook that crimp is more reliable than solder and conducts power more efficiently...
Seat looks seriously comfy
It really is, expensive but worth it
Hey Josh is that abs plastic on the side covers i made mine out of abs 16th of an inch thick with the snell side out my bike looks alot like your bike with the fenders and sid covers i have the enduro tire's and put wider handlebars with a short goose neck .but still using the motorcycle seat from the factory.
No they're the metal side covers with a textured rubber grip on them.
Theoretically you should see a power gain without adjusting controller, in that there is less voltage sag. Power measured in KW. So 83v x X amount of amps = kw's of power. When you hit full throttle, it probably see's a lower voltage under full load, compared with when you had 2 x batteries at full throttle.
So if under full load (1 battery) you get 4v sag at say 100 amps and with (2 batteries) you only get 2v sag, then that's 2v gain. 2v x 100 amps = 200w power gain. But if you weren't really pushing your original battery that hard in the first place, then power gain would be minimal.
My 90v pack at the moment sags 10 volts easy! at 250 amps. If I could eliminate say 5 volts of that sag, I would theoretically see a 1.25kw gain in power! That's one of the reasons I am going to double my pack size.
I deff still have the voltage sag, not sure that it's the same amount though....but I'm suspecting that the limited controller may be the X factor there. Time will tell once i put the new on in. I'm gonna do a walkthrough video of that too. Thanks for watching!
@@JoshStreetDesign what new controller do you have. Also can you not unlock your sabvoton 72150. I have my 72200 unlocked.
@@jcreedy20 I have a locked 72200, and no it CANNOT be unlocked. I've tried everything, 2 computer programs. So I ordered an unlocked version of the same thing. I may up my Field weakening up to 150 amps just to see what kind of top speed I can get.
@@JoshStreetDesign You can by pass a wire around the current sensor inside the Controller. This tricks it in that the main wire only has half the current flowing through it as youh have bypassed a cable around it. It works! Anyway, I have my flux weakening set at 180 amps with great effect!
@@jcreedy20 yeah I've seen that old solder the pass around wire trick before . But I just really want to be able to specifically adjust my numbers. so the 180 amps field weakening what kind of top speed are you getting what are your specs and setup? Do you notice that your motor heats up a lot if you go fast?
Its tough to say " I would have had a voltage drop here if not for the extra amps / bms " unless it was a known hill
hi, thanks for the video, but could you link the tools you use and where you got them, thank you.
What is the bms amp on the first and second battry are they both a same?
Hi, I have a similar bike I finished building a couple of weeks ago :) What moto seat and rear fender are you using please??
Seat is from CAB Motorworks. You can buy it on their site. Expensive though. Here is a link to the fender info: czcams.com/video/mm9jDIvAJ30/video.html
Where did you get that seat / saddle !? I would love to have one 🙏🏿
Check the video description
Dude, I don’t get it. Put the controller in the tray? I ride with 60+Ah 21s 18p and I just expanded the width of the frame with 3D printed spacer/washer to make the battery fit. I also bought a wider BB axle, ground down the cranks and good to go. I a few weeks ago rode 200 miles in one day. I try to keep the voltage between 70-83v to keep the heat down in the battery if I’m hammering the motor. Great video, nice editing.
Hey man. Thanks for the watch. So.... 1. My controller won't fit in the tray. The tray isn't deep enough, and I don't want the front tire to hit it when it compresses fully. 2. Even without the controller inside the frame, there's not really enough room to shove the extra batter in there. This frame is made from thick steel though, and that's why it's so dang heavy. It's really hard to cut. 3. The cut out holes in the frame are made so that a bigger battery really won't fit in there. I tried already unfortunately. How in the world did you get 200 miles on a single charge? Do you mean Kilometers? I have never heard of anyone in any group or on the ES forum ever get any kind of mileage anywhere close to 200 miles out of a 60ah battery. I would go as far as to say that is impossible unless you were riding downhill the entire time, which really isn't possible either. : ) I have a friend with a 63Ah battery and the furthest he rode one day was 100 miles and he rode the battery to it's absolute limit until it couldn't move the bike at the end.
@@JoshStreetDesign Personally I’d never buy a Sav, just based on its size, or under sling it below the seat? I never wrote was in one charge. Maximum I’ve rode continuous from 81-82v was 90km or 60 miles. The 160km 100+mile journey was based on a 140km journey at 40kmh. Although I did stop for breaks during that trip. On the 160km journey I ended up stopping at 80km, toilet break and a free Ev charger was available. I started the journey with 85v and had 79v at 80km (up until this point a familiar journey) is mostly downhill and flat. I know it’s possible achieve 160km. However, at the low 60v the battery does create heat. Prefer to stop and charge and charge to keep the voltage high. This was a new route and the purpose to visit Plovdiv, and check-out the EV charge stations. Plan a 300km journey to Sofia.
@@JoshStreetDesign With the help of some work, under the seat is a good area to sneak away a controller, especially if side fairings are incorporated.
@@apsert eh, I mocked it up and it just didn't look right.
@@JoshStreetDesign Fair play for trying.
Josh nice videos where you buy that battery and how much cost 72v 49ah
what size is your front wheel think i heard it in one of your videos but forgot which one 21" by the looks of it
Front wheel is a 21x1.6 rim
What is rear shock for sleath bomber bomber frame I'm all new with sleath bomber frame
Wow 200 pound bike 🚲 lolz, i gotta 1000w in the rear and its fast enough for me lolz, this must be a MONSTER beast power machine 💪🙏👍🇬🇧
I was thinking of building one of these but after hearing from guys how much they have in the bikes and still have to reinforce the frame I am thinking that the CAB Eagle or Recon is not such a bad deal for having the most powerful and long ranges bikes you can buy that are way over engineered and ready to go for a price that is just a little more than what you have put into your bike.
No dude they use the same exact frame that we do and charge triple the price. Ripoff City man
@@JoshStreetDesign I noticed that you did not list the frame in your parts list. So can you please tell me what frame is it that all these ' Ripoff City" companies and you use. I ask this because to me your frame looks nothing like the CAB Eagle frame
@@LarryRichelli no my frame is different than theirs. My frame is all metal with thicker swing arms, theirs uses plastic side panels. Their frame is lighter obviously. Their's is called called the EEB frame, the electric Enduro bike frame. Just type that on eBay and you can buy it for 600 bucks.
@@JoshStreetDesign Thanks but do you have a link for your frame. I agree with you that that frame on ebay is very light duty.
great video, how do you manage to charge it?
with the same charger and you recrimped the charger connection on the bike aswell?
or you charging the 2 batteries separately?
thanks
They both charge at once as a single battery.
I'm loving that seat/seat bracket! Do you mind sharing where you found it?
It's from cab motor works. They sell it on their website it's very pricey but worth every penny. Absolute night and day difference between the crappy Chinese Moto seat
what is the 20s battery pack in it. how much p ????
What do you mean what is it in? You can see it in the video... I think it's a 20s 14p
I don't see how many watts your hub motor is,...8kw or 5kw,..?
It's the 8kw
Great video!!! thanks for sharing
Hi I recently built an ebike with qs273 motor but I’m not sure if it’s programmed right. I’m only able to get a top speed of 26mph lifting the bike on a stand. The motor controller is set to no speed limit in MQCON app. I’m using a Sabvoton 72150 with a 72v 20ah lipo battery.
I wouldn't need to see screenshots of your mqcon settings first
Also is your BMS allowing more amperage to go to the controller?
What seat is that?
CAB motorworks. It's expensive. They're selling it now for twice the price that I paid for it couple years ago
Great video.
Question, my battery is 48v 20ah. My controller is 48v 20ah. Manufacturer upgrade from 20ah b/c none in stock.
Will this combo work? Heard it could damage battery. I use PAS too when riding.
Hope you can help.
/Bklyn👑
Hey thanks for watching but to be honest with you I'm not sure I understand your question. What is different?
Hi, I have a bike similar but I have an issue where the bike won't accelerate when i turn it, i have to hold it for a while and it's unpredictable when it will start, I've checked everything is connected. Is this something to do with the setting on the LCD? HELP!
doubtful. Sounds like you have a wiring problem somewhere. I would need a lot more details to help you. If you have a sabvoton motor, go into the blue tooth settings, reset it to factory defaults, put your bike on a stand and re-run the hall test. Make sure you put around 15 amps in the given current field before you do it. good luck.
What's the bms ratings on the small battery?
I'm all honesty I completely forget
Just wonder because bms on my first battery it's 200 amp peak and the secondary battery I want to get it's 100a peak so if the controller we'll draw 200 amps will the secondary battery cut out.?
@@adrian.zyskowski2145 pretty sure it will not
That’s called a stepper bit or unibit
Josh, help me understand the pedals. Is it to be less of a threat or to duck some law?
Yes, it keeps the police off my back. They've saved me twice.
Who did the batteries?
I said it in the video twice, ha
Hey im building one too and i need a front fender, what kind are you using on here?
It's modified from razor mx650
Won't your controller overheat? Surely they put it on the outside for a reason and adding another battery will only stress it further.
Nope, controler barely even gets warm.
@@JoshStreetDesign ty
👍
Great video. Where did you get the frame?
Alibaba
It broke this past week, had to weld it. It's stronger now then before
@@JoshStreetDesign so probably not worth buying specially since I don’t know how to weld
@@vb1594 if you're just going to ride on the road you won't have any problems
Who the guy that made your battery I'm I. Brick nj
Believe it or not I got it off Alibaba and I've had zero problems with it it's still charges to a full 84 volts after a year and a half and a crap ton of riding. Got it from the Blue Dot sellers.
where can i get the rubber that you put on your panels?
www.gator-guards.com/products/gatorskinz-soft-touch
@@JoshStreetDesign Ok thanks!
I’m having an issue with my controller 72200 that has the LED light colored Green. No errors listed. Any thoughts on this. Any information would e greatly appreciated.
So am I, join the club. Literally just installed a new 72200 today and it's not interfacing with my display as I was promised by my seller rep. Has me quite pissed off. What is the issue with yours?
@@JoshStreetDesign after inputting all the numbers and checking everything, the light that’s supposed be red, it’s actually green with no function. Screen turns on and hall test passes so I’m in the clouds here.
@@JoshStreetDesign I have a small video on here showing the light on the controller if you want a visual look.
@@christopherfigueroa4143 yeah but what I'm asking you is what is the actual problem you're having? Is the bike not moving is your throttle not working like what's the problem?
@@christopherfigueroa4143 yeah mines green too. Bike still rides fine and all, but I just can't get my speed and mileage and watt usage. I'm pretty sure it's that the controller isn't compatible with the screen, wasn't set up that way.
Don't have enough background to follow you, looks good though... would have been better without the background music.
How tf do you not notice your music is loud and annoying while editing? Thanks for the info
At 72v and 150 Amps your already pushing 10,800 watts. That motor peak is only 12,000 and that is probably over rated. Plus there is the tire diameter and spin rate to factor in. The 3.5T is 950 rpm max at 72v but that is more about top speed than torque. If your wanting more power but less top speed you might go to a 5T motor. The motor you have is the "fast" one not the "torque" one.
There is a lot of info here on that motor
endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=78461
You obviously haven't seen my latest video, lol. czcams.com/video/LJEx6iZzZX0/video.html
@@JoshStreetDesign OK So I watched that one. Glad you are more happy with the 5T but you still have some issues with the battery setup. I'd like to see a link to that Panasonic 72V 49A battery to see what the actual specs are on those. But adding the 20s3p in parallel is theoretically possible especially since the voltage is the same however those LG MJ1 INR 18650 3500mAh batteries in the smaller pack only have a 10A discharge rating so 20S3P is 72V 30 Amps max assuming the BMS is rated for the same. When you get on the gas your going to ramp up to pulling 30A from each or 60amps total and then the BMS is going to trip on the smaller pack dumping the 60A load to the bigger pack which is where your probably seeing the voltage sag on your display. Adding that 2nd smaller pack will give you extra range (assuming you stay under 30A draw) until the pack pack drains and cuts off and shifts all the load to the bigger pack but it will not give you extra amps at hi-power because the BMS is only rated for 30A. Does that make since?
You could get away with doing this (since your space limited) by adding a 2nd smaller lipo pack of the same voltage with a high C rate of discharge. Some lipos have up too 50C discharge rate which would match your 150A big pack but you would have to run like 20 if them in series to get your 72V match
Yes you can run 2 packs in parallel which can give you almost double the capacity if same size
and they do not really have to be the same type, I've read people running both lipo and lithium in parallel.
But if you are running 2 packs in parallel then they need to be the same voltage and ah.
If they are not the same ah then one will die before the other which is fine. The BMS will protect it. But if you have one with smaller voltage the larger battery at 72v (example) and the other pack at 48v when you parallel them then the 72v is going to try to dump into the 48v. Which will ruin the 48v pack
@@jamescole6846 that's a great well thought out reply, thanks for all the info. The second pack is running at 72 volts as well, and I think it has a 40amp bms, but I see what you're saying.
@@jamescole6846 honestly my biggest gripe about having the second pack in there is that my tire hits that controller box on big jumps and hits as obviously there's less clearance towards the backside of that tire now.
@@JoshStreetDesign Well hopefully it is not a 40A BMS because as I stated your pack is a 20S3P and those LG MJ1 INR 18650 are only rated for 10A discharge so 3 in parallel is 30Amp max at 72V. 40A pull would burn them up.
I have not built a bike as powerful as your but I am running a 5000 watt motor in a similar frame as well as have 5 other bikes I built and have built several li-on battery packs. My problem is the pack I need is about the size of the one you have but I dont want to spot weld that many connections and I dont want to pay for the pack to be built so my interim solution was to use 8 of these.
hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-high-capacity-16000mah-4s-12c-multi-rotor-lipo-pack-w-xt90.html?queryID=b72512a6d41c9b0c67742ffa64a34dc8&objectID=80209&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products
in a 4S2P config. Charge voltage is only 66V and nominal is around 60V but with the 12-24C rating on these I can pull as much as power as I want. 16A x 12C is 192A continuous plus they are 2P so really 384 Amp Continuous or over 700A burst at 24C (which it says they are rated for) but I don't have the wires to support that even if I did have the motor The point is, the on demand capacity is there. Which is what you need.
The drawback is these are a PAIN IN THE ASS to charge. Each battery (depending on which one you use) is actually a 4S lipo battery in a 1P pack. so 4 of them in series is actually 16 cells and 2 sets in parallel is 32 cells boxed in 8 batteries. Each battery has + - and a balance lead but NO BMS!! so you have to monitor these carefully and there is a lot of connection inside the frame to hook them all up. I custom made all of mine with XT90 connectors and 10Guage silicone wire.
To charge them I have to unplug them all and then I hook each set of 4 to two of these
www.venompower.com/venom-pro-quad-100w-7a-4-port-ac-dc-lipo-lihv-nimh-battery-balance-charger-0686
I thought about building a custom BMS that would charge all of these while in the frame but I got a monster Jeep a buggy, kids, life etc.... I just like trial riding. My Dirt Bike days are way over a long time ago when I was younger. My back, neck, knees, elbows have all either been broken or stretched beyond limits too many times to ride hard anymore. But I have put over 3000 miles on my ebike just riding trails in the DFW area here in Texas.
since I don't ride as hard as you I am getting about 45-50 miles out of a charge on these with the total capacity being 60-66V at 32 amps or 1920 watts. have about half the total watts as you but can pull 4 times the power. I charge at 4 Amps so they take about 4 hours with two chargers to charge all 8. They do make a 4S20A and a 6S16A as wells as a 6S20Amp you might look at but I dont know what the room is inside your frame. What I did was get the measurements of each of the batteries and then cut wood blocks to approximant same size and then stacked the wood blocks in my frame in different configurations to see what I could really fit before buying.
My idea pack would be about a 20S14P with the Samsung 30Q which have a 15A discharge rating then I could move to a bigger motor and get 210Amps out of the pack but trying to build that... 280 Cells 4 welds per cell times 2 ends thats 2240 spot welds with my battery tab welder. Aint gonna happen I got 45 other projects I work on as well. I would love to have a one stop plug in charge port I would get in a pack like this but it really doesnt take that much time to pull all the lipos and charge them the way I do it now.
The Lipo's are going to beat the Li-on's all day every day for amp discharge no matter what the config and if you do go that route you can have a much smaller pack with a higher discharge rating. You might even scrimp on your volts a little if it will help fit in your frame. They both depend on each other respectively to work but Volts is potential and will give you more top speed where Amps is what moves things and gives you the torque. That Sabvaton controller is not gonna care if your only running 60 Volts instead of 72 if you can get twice the discharge rate you will still have more torque. So when choosing your next battery combination you might factor that in. Like I said I run 4S 14.4 which only gives me about 60V in a 4S but I can pull 192 Amps on a single string . I also want to add that a LOT of those Chinesium batteries do NOT put out the rating they say they do. Unless you see it measured in your controller display under realtime amps being used at full throttle you probably need to start there and see what that number is. Your battery voltage or their watt rating do not account for actual amps being moved out of your battery pack and if your Shunt value isn't setup properly in the controller that is not going to read properly either.
Hope that helps :)
Top speed?
62mph. However, I'm switching to a 5t motor tomorrow from this 3.5t, and will have a slower top speed, but will have much more torque for off roading...in theory, we'll see. video to come.
I did this and it burned my controller.
No offense meant, but you must have wired something wrong or used varying voltages...
What is the total price ?
for the second battery or the entire bike?
@@JoshStreetDesign the entire bike with 2 batteries. Ty
@@fackerhidonbush8420 well, that's a hard question to answer, I've done a lot of upgrades, and then re-upgrades... Like today I just put Fox 40 forks on it.... But if I had to estimate a total that I've spent...hmmm, I would say at least $5500
@@JoshStreetDesign thank you. This helps me decide if i can build one or not
@@fackerhidonbush8420 your can build one for much less
Daddy😍
🤝👌👍👈
Are you selling the bike?
Why you looking to buy?
@@JoshStreetDesign I have one but it has lots of problems, I looking to buy one similar to yours,
@@tshoba8 I would consider it at the right price. I just put a 5t motor on it in a cross laced 18" rim, with a Dunlop K990 rear tire, set up for off road riding. I actually have a lot of money into this bike. I wouldn't expect to get out of it as much as I spent though.
@@JoshStreetDesign would it be easier for me to build one with your instructions?
@@tshoba8 I have no idea what your skill level is haha
Be careful with that frame offroad, its not welded very good and if you hit some harder bumps or jumps you might break some welds. I personally woudnt ride that frame at all offroad.
I ride this thing as hard as possible off-road. I frequently check the welds and everything still looks tight. I have a feeling that some of the ones that went on the factory weren't as good as others. I feel like I got a good one
Yeah but you dont see the micro cracks until your front fork breaks off 😅. Dont trust china welds, just saying. Check Vector ebikes out, they have nice quality frames. My next bike will be a Vortex frame with 7kWh and 20-30kW, far in the future 😬
@@theblackbike9083 whatever dude I'll ride it till it breaks. : ) if it breaks it breaks, I'll just build a new one or just re weld whatever spot breaks
Optimistic view haha, lets hope it doenst break at 40mph off a root 😬