How To Make 100+ Wooden Custom Bar Signs // CNC // Woodworking Business
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- čas přidán 29. 10. 2020
- When running a custom wood CNC business, you have to think differently to make it a full-time job. In this video, I go through the process of prototyping a design that's easily repeatable and cost effective.
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#woodworkingbusiness #signmaking #andybirdbuilds - Jak na to + styl
I received this comment and it's too good not to share here. This isn't my knowledge but someone elses. Hope it helps you too!
I have learned a few tricks that will help you with the struggles you encountered.
Spray paint is a poor choice for for lettering. Here is why: you seal the wood with shellac or some other spray based sealer. The solvents in spray paint dissolve this sealer which results in grain bleed. Solution: use a sealer coat and then a water based paint such as acrylic or latex. I dont mask and paint pretty slopppy because it will clean up in the drum sander. It is a little time consuming to paint by hand but if you can get a HVLP sprayer that will speed up your process for both sealing, paint, and staining.
Paint then drum sander. You learned your lesson here. This technique does work though and its what I do with my process. The way to not lose detail on your carve is to carve it like 0.020" deeper than your finished depth so that way you have material to be removed. Skip oramask all together and still retain your detail.
This would especially be true if using shellac then followed by an oil base paint that contained lots of harsh chemicals (Acetone, Xylene and Toluene) like in spray paint. If you were to spray water based over shellac you would not have the same issue of bleeding. One of the reasons is that water based does not have as harsh agents that would cut through shellac, and also water based molecules are larger than oil based, which is why it is more viscous, meaning it can not penetrate (read as bleed) like the spray paint will.
Shellac is unique from any other "clear (used loosely because it is not clear)" finishing product because it plays nice with both oil base and water base finishes. In fact it makes an excellent barrier between the two if you wanted to comingle them. It's only downfall is that it is not a super tough finish, but for something to hang on the wall it is perfect. The nature of shellac though makes it an excellent finish if you ever needed to repair it because it will literally melt into its itself again a decade from now if another coat is applied.
That being said, using a sanding sealer is a great idea for poplar or any other blotchy wood variety. Without it, you will get blotch, much like you have in your examples. Your blotchiness may be the desired look you were going for but a much smoother tonality can be obtained.
You were using oil based stain here, which that particular one is actually is a hybrid of a dye and a stain. Oil based will give you a lot more leeway when applying by hand such as you did to limit blotchiness. If you were applying a water-based colorant by hand the blotching would have been much more severe.
The main point I and the other commenter were trying to make is that spraying is the way to go, when you get good at it, spraying water base with high quality dyes creates an excellent tonal finish.
Different wood species can benefit from a penetration oil based finish to pop the grain, poplar is not one of them.
But just like a car the best finish will happen when colorant is added first, then cleared. Also colorant can be added to the clear to give a neat layering effect as well.
Good info on your channel. Thanks for sharing.
I second painting with acrylic, it sands off pretty easy without having to take too much material off. Also, it seems that the stain first and cut second method would really expedite production. Trade off would be the lettering color would be limited to the natural wood color and the stain wold have to have enough contrast against it. For some projects this kind of limited palette would be worth it in terms of increased speed and simplicity.
I just spray with a clear coat first also, glad you came up with a non mask solution
Id say get a small sprayer with quality paint, thin it down and spray, and use the pre paint primer on wood. Then run through a drum sander.
Thanks for the info guys
I like how this video gets to the point and doesn't drag on for 20minutes of build footage that every maker has seen 100 times, nice work.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
But how would I know how to cut a rectangle?
This is an excellent point. Detailed build videos are great for beginners.., but they become tedious for the experienced "Maker". It's similar to ordering a fine meal, at a fine restaurant, and then waiting for the chef to explain all of the knowledge and training that will be used in the preparation of your meal... before he starts cooking. LOL!
Rather than masking I use sanding sealer or shellac before spraying. The paint doesn't bleed into the wood grain so sanding overspray is limited to the surface paint and shellac not into wood grain
I don't understand how there are people who click on dislike button for a video like this.
Good luck on your business!
Especially after searching or clicking on the video in the 1st place
Thanks for sharing your process. Shellac is good to seal because it reduces the cycle time to the next step (quick dry) then quickly brush color into the holes. Also, hand painting a thicker paint can mask tool marks in the cutout=less sanding. Downside to spray painting the whole thing and then drum sanding: Your sandpaper will load up with paint quickly and then transfer the paint into the wood grain of the next board through (and that's tough to remove). Far better to seal, spray, sand and move on. Make sure the paint is dry or the sanding dust will make a mess inside the carving. Using the masking material is GREAT when you want a sign with more than 1 color: paint the entire thing with the base color, mask, shellac, hand paint the colors you want, remove masking = laser sharp lines with less work. BEFORE you paint, a soft to medium bristle wire brush helps remove the "fuzzies". Finally, a steeper angle V-bit (60, 30 or even 10 deg) will net a deeper cut BUT less material on the sides resulting in weaker letters. Stronger letters come from a 90 deg bit - takes some practice. Good luck and we look forward to more content.
PS- for all the guys who say "Seal with X then carve": Problem is after carving you have exposed end-grain raw wood which is just looking to wick up whatever color you are about to apply. Sealing the carved spaces after CNC prevents that migration. As pointed out, it is critical that your sealer and color are compatible.
Thank you for sharing all that info👍
Really loved the way you put more thought into mass producing efficiently. I am not a woodworker by profession. I am just exploring the idea of getting a CNC router / 3D Printer / Laser engraver to give shape to some of my personal project ideas. Watching you channel gives me good tips and vibes. Much appreciated!
When I had issues with bleed over the way you did, I swapped to a different clear coat, I used a pretty hefty coat of Shellac before I put the paint on, and used the first technique you used in the video, and had great results.
I don't know anything about that masking material, so it might not work, but you might want to try wrapping Gorilla tape around your hand and using it to weed out all of the small leftover masking bits.
If that works it will save me so much time! I'll give it a try. Thank you!👍
Very few communities have the 'big guys' perusing the channels of the 'little guys' and actively commenting, but the Maker community is a fine exception to that.
I use purpose made weeding picks when preparing decals for commercial letting. The gorilla tape might work well for you as you don't have to worry about the vinyl you're trying to "keep". It's all waste.
@@AndyBirdBuilds Maybe its the laziness in me, but I would try to leave all the little bits on, and run it through the sander. This could very well be a bad idea.
Great channel ..... can’t help but think of Home Alone 2 with that idea 🤣 - The Sticky Bandits
Just discovered your excellent channel. I just retired having sold my graphics business (mainly wraps but a lot of signs too), so I appreciate the fact that there is a lot of trial/error on the path to success. Strangely, my woodworking hobby is leading me to looking at CNC to do signs as a part-time gig. Will be watching your channel more as I develop a plan - thanks!
Nice work! I like how you've refined your process and discussed it on the video. Makes me consider the CNC and drum sander even more.
Glad you enjoyed. I'm constantly refining!
Appreciate your insights on the business aspect side of things. I find your content very helpful and relatable especially with your approach to always looking for ways to do things more efficiently.
I appreciate that!
Mill/rout the sign, then liberally spray the wood with a clearcoat wood sealer, let it dry,, then paint and sand the sign. The clearcoat layer will stop the paint from bleeding into the wood and you will have a sharp image. Also, only paint the areas with text/images, as this will lessen the amount of cleanup/sanding.
Use Marsh Ink in a spray can.. doesn't bleed, saves a step from having to seal before painting letters.
This.... 100%... Marsh is a game changer.
Glad CZcams recommended your channel. Great videos and very informative.
Fantastic!
You need a bleed coat first. Spray the board with the clear coat, Then mask and router the design. Then clear coat over the mask, after drying, apply colour coat and peel the mask. Then finish with clear. Works every time :)
Nice video, I run a Pilot Po 2642 cnc and do a lot of signs, my tip is to do the lettering with water based blackboard paint with a small paint brush, dries super fast, no leaching and cleans up easy. If you apply a clear finish it looks the same as gloss black. Cheers from Australia.
Your videos are seriously GOLD. Thank you so much!
Glad you like them!
Good video, thanks for sharing. Here's a little tip I learned I thought I would share with you. When I carve letters, it's really important that the bit is really sharp. Dull tools lead to tear out. If you think about it, at zero point, the very bottom of the bit, the bit, no matter how many RPM's you are cutting at, is really not spinning. Another trick, it takes a little longer but the letters come out much cleaner. I do them in two passes. The first pass using conventional programming (running the tool in a counterclockwise direction while cutting) and then run the same thing but switch to climb (tool runs in a clockwise direction) programming. Really helps clean the letters out. Congrats on the success of your business, your passion shows. Take care.
I use Minwax sanding sealer, mask it, then paint. seems to work pretty well against grain bleed. Keep up the good work Andy.
You content is exactly what I have been looking for.
Great! Stay tuned i have more planned
I found your channel, it is an inspiration! Thank you!
Great! Thanks for watching
Marsh stencil ink. Several colors available and will not bleed. Spray and sand off. Works great!
Thank you very much
Understanding the properties of wood grain is invaluable. Your issue is as the cutter cuts down through the wood, you essentially have end grain exposed along the walls of the cut. The exposed end grain will now draw paint, water, stain, etc. into the wood along the grain. This is why lumber yards paint the ends of the boards so they do not draw moisture into the end grain. So in essence, you would need to seal the exposed end grain with a clear sealer before you apply any color or stain into the cuts. I used to build caskets in a high capacity production shop (255 units a day). It's a challenge getting the end result you want in a way that retains profitability while producing superior products. However, I would look at what I am using to stain or get my color into the letters. Anything that is a thin liquid is going to seep into that grain. the thicker my medium, the less able the grain is able to absorb it. Along that same thought is the faster the medium sets up, the less opportunity it has to absorb. The harder the wood is and the tighter the grain is, the less it will absorb.
Its actually nice to know that other people mask their cnc carvings and spray paint them. I thought was only one XD.
I tried shellacking the wood first to prevent bleeding. I agree, when you try using paint and then drum sander you lose some of the finer details that don't cut so deep.
I make signs all the time. A trick I learned was after staining but before masking use Polycrylic. It dries fast. couple of coats of that makes a cleaner cut and no bleeding.
Thats a great tip. I'll have to give it a try
I find that I have less bleeding of stain and paint if I seal the wood first. Use a sealer that penetrates works better than spray on.
Great video! Good work!
Great video! Thank you for this.
Glad it was helpful!
Good job!Well done!Go on body!You will be more successful ,in any time soon!Never be frustrated!Don’t forget;every success,lies behind of many tears and pains
Great work!
Thank you!
I stain first. Mask with the Oramask 813 and then paint. I do a light pass of paint to help seal the wood and then spray more on. I have zero bleeding from the paint.
This is a very useful video I was looking for. Thank you ^^
Thats great! I'm glad you found it useful
@@AndyBirdBuilds thank you!
Consider using keyhole hangers And inlay them flush on the backside.
That Oramask idea is genius, thanks for sharing.
It works well. I will say to read through this comment section as their is some great advice that I've implemented
@@AndyBirdBuilds Looks like there are a lot of good tips in the comments to consider, thank you. You gave me an idea for using Oramask. I often have "fuzzy" carvings when using softer woods, do you think the mask would hold up to a light sandblast with a less aggressive blasting substrate, like walnut shells, to tidy up the carve prior to painting?
Not that you need another, but you have gained another sub here. I have watched a few of your videos, and I am impressed. Keep up the fun work, great videos, and awesome wood working sir.
Have a blessed week.
Dale
Thank you so much, Dale!
Great video man. thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I’ve been doing CNC signs for for well over 10 years...I shellac the wood prior to masking with oramask 813...carve the sign then shellac carved areas. Paint with top of the line exterior latex paint. Remove the mask and clear coat with General Finishes exterior finish. Make sure to sand after 2 coats and apply 2 more coats...ON BOTH SIDES...equal coats on both sides prevents warping
Great video... sounds so familiar lol. One thing I’ve experienced, the only way I get rid of bleed is to do 3-4 really light coats of spray. Really light. Another technique without masking, I’ve offset my engrave to run deeper, then spray like crazy, then run through planer. Sanding always seemed to smudge paint all over. The planer took everything off. Good luck!
Great tip!
Great job..
Thank you!
Andy, try Marsh stencil spray. I use it on all my signs, it will not bleed into the grain of the wood. And be sure to seal the v-carving with shellac before you spray on the black.
Thank you for the tip. Check out the pinned comment, this is what I'm doing now.
Whenever I do Vbit carves, I always use acrylic paint/sand/stain. It works every single time for me.
This is what I'm doing now! Thanks for sharing
Love this business ideas
Thanks, glad to help
I found using a 90 degree v works better than a 60, leaves a cleaner cut for me.
Same for me - in „mass production“ I am no longer using 60degree v-bits, Only 90degree - brings much better results, especially in soft woods
@@wolframherzog636 is about feet and speed. The point is that with those Vee bits is that you have 2 diameters. So try to avoid drag your bit nose.
Very amazing work Andy, my father was a CNC operator but tool and die maker and we recently got a cnc etcher at work. Wood, fiber glass even rubber or epoxys. Really cool work. I would love to get into something like this and learn the software to make these things. I worked with a flow jet high pressure sand grit water jet cutter so im aware of some if the lingo and whats involved but this cnc wood etching is really cool. I would love to get involved
Awesome! With your experience, I'm sure you'd pick it up in no time.
Cool signs!
Thank you for watching, Jolien!
I found if you stain first, spray your clear sealant and let dry. Then put oramask down, carve them paint. Helps a lot to keep the paint from bleeding. Then seal it again. Kinda of the same process however a few steps reversed. Also if some paint does bleed through you can usually scrape the paint that does bleed off with ease.
You should check out Dave Rhoten.. He mainly does free hand signs, but the finishing would apply to your application. Him and his father have been making signs for years and they are good at teaching.
They look great, good work. I could not totally see how you were spraying the black paint, but if I was doing it I would spray a bunch of light coats so I would not get a lot of really wet paint build up that would migrate under your mask, I think the light spraying might avoid the migration better and less sanding. Not an expert, but I hope that helps.
One thing you might want to try if you do a sign like this again is while that blue protective film is on it, take a nice contrasting paint, pour a bit on it, then take like a bondo putty spreader, and just use that to fill in the lettering. Once it is mostly dry, then peel off that film. Too soon will cause paint smears and too late will just be difficult for the more detailed parts like the AF emblem you have there.
I have seen other people doing what you are doing try it and the results are pretty nice. Also provide a nice thick layering of paint for the letters that will not likely fade any time soon.
OMG...I never thought to put a mask down before cutting. I have rolls of transfer "paper" laying around. That's genius!
I have found that sanding the face with 220 paper before you apply the paint helps with the bleeding issue also. Thanks
hitting the sign with shellac after staining but before masking could help make the v-carves come out cleaner
I suggest you use the CNC to cut keyhole slots in the back for hanging.
Actually, from a production point of view, that's another bit change and it's now a 2-sided project. Granted, the "fixed axis" fence system solves some of that, but from a production standpoint, pull them out, drill press with a jig to locate the starter holes and then use a T-slot cutter in the router table with a couple stops. You can be doing that while the CNC is banging out more projects. Much quicker
I agree, I use a keyhole bit even on mass production. I do all the front sides first and only do one bit change. Make an 'L' with blocks and clamp them down and then do the back sides with the key hole bit. It is super fast and you only have to set up for the key holes on the initial sign. If the signs are the same size it will be in the same spot on every one of them. Best part is you don't have to clamp them down either. Just make sure the bit cutting travel is in the same direction as the "L" and the force of the bit will keep it all in place. Holding it down with your hands works just fine. This works for me. I just made about 200 plaques using this process.
@@TheWoodFly Do a batch, say 20 signs v carved. Then change bit and key hole the back side. Don't change the bit for each sign.
Hi spray with a clear coat paint let dry then paint what ever color you want let dry then sand and it won’t bleed in to the wood hope this helps
If you seal the wood before putting through the CNC then paint the lettering with a water based paint I find you can just wipe the excess off with a damp cloth.
What I usually do is to do the carving statting 0.03" bello the top then apply the paint afterwards take the 0.003" with a flat bit
You should have tried sanding sealer before CNC and that would help with the spray paint to run so much sanding. I do that with my signs that I sand by hand and works great.
Awesome. Check out the comment that I've pinned if you haven't. This is the method I'm using now. I dont even mask anything now
Great video. Just another reason I need a drum sander! LOL
Careful when you go shopping Angie, I bought one and loved it. Then I found out the belt drive mechanism had a plastic gear that stripped out. Guess what...parts not available. Not sure how you find out what the gear train is made of....maybe google the model number and see if anyone has trouble like this.
Nice stuff. I think that if you sprayed with sealer before you carve or with clear gloss varnish that drying time is negligible and that your carving would not be able to tear out chunks first. Better solid surface. Then spraying black paint also wouldn’t cause grief after running through your very wonderful sander-planer. Thanks for your vids.
If the process with masking tape is taking you a lot of time you can maybe apply a technique that i've been successfully using for this type of application. This is using a simple clear spray paint before applying the black paint. I think for series production this can be a lot faster. Clear spraypaint prevents the black paint from "bleeding" getting "drawn in" to the wood. So just process the board without preparing. Then clear coat, black coat and than the drum sander. After wich staining can be applied.
It takes a bit more work on the design stage but you can add just a hairline stroke to the design elements to allow for the sand-down.
Try using frog tape for your masking, it may help with the stain issue. Also, you may try spraying the stain instead of wiping and burnish your masking for a better seal.
Gotta use marsh ink spray paint. It sands off perfect and doesn’t bleed in like other spray paints.
Thanks, Drew. I've never heard of this before, I'll check it out
Great video! I found your channel and I'm starting so they are super inspirational and educative. Thanks. What's the name of the blue layer that you put at 0:49 and can you make a video of the 90 degrees, 60 and the other ones, differences, pros, cons, etc. it would amazing.
I also went thru this trial and error. I'm still looking for the most efficient ways. Sealing the surface is important to protect from bleeding. The last sign I made, I sealed and used the masking, cut, airbrushed the carves, sanded and finished. It's still quite a process for custom work. I also have a laser engraver now and hope to eliminate painting on certain designs.
Check out the pinned comment at the top of the comments section. This is what I'm doing now and seems to work great. Thank you for watching!
Set your carve depth to start 1mm below the surface then spray the wood and run them through the drum sander 👍🏻
Good tip!
V carve then spray with clear coat, spray dye stain and it will make vcarves black and broad brown
Hey I heard if you put some spray polyurethane on first then paint then it won't bleed into the grain. Then run through the drum sander.
Great video!
I wonder if intentionally setting your cut depth a hair deeper initially would help with bleedout and maintaining detail after going through the drum sander?
Possibly!
The paint is wicking into the endgrain. coat the carved area with something your spray paint can't dissolve. one option is called liquid beeswax its a mixture of turpentine and bees wax.
Or use clear sanding sealer.
Really cool. Have you tried one light coat of water poly. Then using an acrylic paint and roll it into the board then using a wet rag or squeegee to wipe off the paint. You have to be quick but I think this would work. Doesn't dry as fast as spray paint but the poly would make sure the acrylic doesn't soak into the wood. Then when its all dry run it through the sander... Just a thought... really cool Designs.
Thanks for the tips. It seems like that would work well
@@AndyBirdBuilds seemed to work for me. Although some paint bleeds into the grain. You have to be really quick to avoid the acrylic bleeding into the grain. I just did this to avoid sanding.
seal with clear before the painting. That should keep the black from bleeding so bad. Wish I had seen this before making my sons desk name block. I might have to do that over again. lol
What type masking material do you use. I tried the stuff I have for my vinyl cutter but it does stand up well enough and it isn't sticky enough. Great job though and loved the video.
The way I achieve perfect lettering without any bleed is these steps : Seal wood with shellac, lightly sand and put on oracal. Carve, seal the carved areas with brush on shellac(I do 2 coats), spray paint. Remove oracal and finish with a spray on sealer.
Another option is to use laser instead of the paint and then just seal it with clear coat. Can be done on the CNC. Takes some machine time but not yours so it might be worth it. Especially if you shoot for the long run.
Regardless of the method, run a clear coat first and dry it WELL (oven?) before applying dark paint. You will reduce the paint run between fibers.
Not a CNC Guy, but have experience with laser etching wood. If you apply a varnish or sealer to the wood prior to spray painting it, it should reduce or eliminate the bleed through that you are seeing.
Thats a great tip! That makes complete sense. Something like a poly or laquer? I'll give it a try!
So masking, CNCing, sealer, spray painting?
@@ulaB I took it as stain, sealer, mask, cnc, paint
@@AndyBirdBuilds That's pretty much it. Seal it prior to masking. It doesn't matter what you use as long as it gets into the fibers and does not allow the paint in later. Make sure you let it dry and put on multiple coats to get a good seal and you might even be able to get away with avoiding the mask all together and go back to sanding afterwards.
Awesome, I'll give it a try👍
Hello- I think, I might be able to help with this, and future problems like this.
1) use a different type of paint. I recommend using "Montana Gold" brand of paint. It's a super fast drying, low volume propellent, and likely work much better, and dry much much faster!
-spray from ~6" away, (wear mask for sure).
With this specific type of spray paint, you can also buy different nozzles for different requirements. It cost 50% more, but will pay off! There are a few youtube videos on this paint you should watch, to learn tricks, tips, and likely save Soo much time, and increase productivity a lot!
Hope this helps!
-Bryan
Thank you!
Cut sand the lettering and logo as needed... clear coat with pre-cat lacquer.
Then paint.... drum sand and stain.
Then respray top coat.
The lacquer will do the same as the oramask at 1/10th the cost and 1/50th the hassle.
Pre catalyzed lacquer is your absolute best friend. Dries faster than any finish.
Reactivates the previous coat for touch ups and after curing is as tough as nails.
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing. I had someone leave a similar comment and since then I have changed to this technique. Its definitely the way to go
That will work with a dark lettering, but light colored lettering will take on stain.....seal wood after final sand, stain to color wanted, lay an acrylic or poly top coat on, mask over this prep, carve sign or image, paint carving as desired and then reapply two more top coats of acrylic or poly.
If you have a compressor, checkout out the Critter sprayer as a cost effective and convenient way to spray.
Thank you for the tip!
Thanks alot for sharing
Can you tell us how much money you had spent and you gained after selling ?
This Paxton guy sure owns a lot of bars.
I laughed out loud at this
shellac the wood first, then cnc, then paint and then sand. better finish. Finish with a clear satin enamel top coat
I want to thanks for your videos . I like them. Please can you tell wich one is the font you more frequently uses for the signs. Thanks you in advance
Thank you. I don't use any special font. Just the ones loaded in the software
By any chance have you tried running it through the drum sander before you carve? I wonder if the bleeding under the mask is because you have an unsanded surface with more imperfections that is giving pathways for the bleeding. Maybe sand it first, mask, and see if that reduces your bleeding. Also, when you apply the mask, use a linoleum roller to make sure the mask is well adhered.
Sometimes the type of wood will bleed more. Also, using a small airbrush will limit a lot of that over spray and extend the life of your sandpaper in your drum sander.
Thanks for the tip👍
Hi I'm a CNC Turning guy, how do I get onto this. Your work is awesome.. 👍
use a black marker for touch ups
Very nice video What do you call that roll of plastic that you use for masking & where can it be purchased
Oramask amzn.to/2W69noy
Hi Andy, in order to skip the masking step why don't you try to stain it then spray clear coating before the CNC engraving?
Great video. I was wondering why you did the clear coat before the spray paint?
To keep the paint from bleeding into the wood
Spray 2 coats of poly then spray then drum sand.... should be perfect!
seal it, carve it, paint it, sand it, then stain it. :)
Great video and awesome finished products. I just bought my first CNC machine and I'm looking to find the best programming software for sign engraving and game boards. What are you using at the beginning of this video? It looks super easy to just drag and drop a file onto the board. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Carbide create
Did you use any pre-conditioner prior to staining, after you drum sanded the signs? They came out awesome!
I did. Thanks!
The feeds and speeds might be a little off, or the bit a little dull. It should be cleaner. Or you can execute the same program the second time for cleanup.
Andy what’s the out come of your work?
Not a tip, but a question; Would a series of sanding sealers and sandings fill the crevices? It appears that natural voids in the wood grain are allowing paint to wick into little "box canyons" -- that could be(?) eliminated before masking. I'm certainly not an expert in wood finishing, but I've done a good bit of cabinet making and tried many different finishes. So, I'm curious.., and --- I'd be happy if I was able to help someone before I begin kicking the bucket 🪣 (I've actually ordered a custom bucket, just to see how far I can kick it!) LOL!
Have you tried to seal the wood with Shellac before painting. The paint will bond to the shellac in the recesses and won't bleed into the surface wood and then sanding will take it off as you desire. Should eliminate the masking.