* New * Pepe Tools Jump Ring maker 2.1 Demo Review in HD
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- čas přidán 28. 02. 2015
- Jeweller Dave Wilson of CelticDreams.CO.UK demonstrates and reviews the "LATEST" incarnation of the Pepetools Jump ring maker.
If you found this video useful, why not buy me a coffee ?
www.buymeacoffee.com/mailun
Thanks, Dave ; )
Want one? follow the link below to buy direct from Pepetools Guaranteed genuine.
Use the code CELTIC at checkout for little extra discount. Dave ; )
pepetools.com/pages/rolling-m...
Also see the official manual (written and illustrated by myself).
pepetools.com/cdn/shop/files/...
Mr.Dave....this was the BEST video explaining how to make jump rings easily and safely. I have seen some really weird ways and pretty dumb setups on videos which scared me to pieces. This tool is perfect for the serious jump ring maker and with safety in mind. There isn't a better video than this with your explicit detail explaining exactly how to use this tool. Thank you so much for taking the time to show us.
Thanks again for the kind words. Do remember that you also need the Foredom to use it, so setup can be expensive. But once you've got it, its a great tool. I also plan to make another video on it with tips and tricks i have learnt. Thanks for watching. Dave
This is the BEST video for this product, and I've watched all I could find. No other video gives you the close-ups and explanation of how exactly the thing works. (You'd think that videos for people who make things would show you how your tools are made and how they work....) Info for left-handers was also appreciated. Now I understand how I sliced the top of the coil holder and why the arbor screw often comes loose. Thank you, thank you.
+Kathy Wildman Well I'm glad you found my video useful. I wanted to address all the knowledge gaps in all the previous videos, hence the close up shots of the blade and the left handed tips too. If you can understand how a tool works, you can understand how to use it correctly. Thank you for taking the time to comment, it's what encourages me to keep making videos. I have also forwarded your lovely comments to my friends at Pepe, who love to hear them. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Just bought myself this jump ring maker and your video was excellent in describing how best to set it up and use it. I was struggling with dedicating space on my workbench, but appreciate the idea of using separate surfaces and clamping onto the bench when needed. Thanks for such a comprehensive and great quality video!
Thanks. If you're going to get good results, safely, then you do need to understand how to use it properly. Thanks for watching. Dave.
I have been investigating jump ring makers and this is by far the most detailed, clear and informative information I have found. Thank you so much for taking the time to help the rest of us. Much appreciated!! Liz uk jeweller
Thanks Liz, I wasn't paid to make the video, and I do genuinely use this for making my own jump rings. At least you can make a more informed decision as to whether its right for you. Thanks for watching. Dave
Just bought one after 35 yrs ! I had enough of my fingers hurting !
A pricey set up with the foredom as well, but well worth it. Dave
Thank you! Extremely helpful video. I've had the JRM2 for about a year and I had to figure out several of these issues on my own (by breaking several blades unfortunately). This video addresses all of them! The most helpful being the closeup of how the blade is supposed to spin as well as being sure to screw down the cutting box. Those two things were exactly what was keeping me from successfully cutting rings without ruining expensive blades. The only other thing I found was that I upgraded to a Foredom .6HP flex shaft and running at full speed was a bit too much and backing slightly off full speed provides more control and the ability to stop if I hear any problems developing inside the box.
I watch this as a refesher before I start each time!
+jodicaryn Thanks for your lovely comments. I have forwarded them on to Pepe also, who love to hear from their customers. Some more Pepe videos coming soon, with some new updated tools. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Hello! I came across this video by pure chance! And I am amazed with the quality and finnishing of ALL the parts of this kit, and your dedication to good quality workis and SAFETY. In this country where I am, we do still on the firsts steps about safety at work, on the roads, etc! Good good luck! you well deserv it!!
Thanks. Dave
Thank you, thank you! First time I've seen proper instruction on how to use this awesome tool.
I am going to make a "tips" video too. My best one is to put double sided tape inside the coil holder. this prevents the coil from moving and binding the saw when its being cut. Top Tip - Dave.
Wow... I always wondered how they made perfectly-sawed jump rings! I have a jeweler's hand saw, which is better than nothing, but those easy-to-break little blades are a real pain. I usually break 2 per coil. This tool set is top-notch, and so is your video.
Thank you. Yes it does make the process much simpler and faster. I do still saw by hand if I just want a couple. Remember you can get thicker saw blades, Using the finest blade isn't always the best option. ry to use the appropriate thickness for the wire you're cutting. If you get flush cutters, there is also technique where you can keep flipping the cutters over (cut a ring, trim the end of the coil then cut the next) and you can cut rings by hand with fairly perfect ends quite quickly. See the link, not my vid, but a good explanation. Dave
czcams.com/video/WlDZlfmjFDs/video.html
These are the best jewelry product review videos on CZcams. Thanks
Thank you. Glad you find them useful. Dave
Thank you for the great demonstration!
Thanks for watching. Dave.
Great instructional video! Very thorough. Thanks, Dave!
+Zuma Lilly Thanks for watching and for the lovely comments. Dave.
Hi Dave, I love youre videos, they are so excellent and you explain so well and shows really well. I have just ordered myself the pepe jump ring maker after seeing youre video, but now I have just a small problem and my seller doesnt seem to understand my questions so I hope you can help me?
The thing is, at first I tought that buying the pepe maker would be all I needed but not so simple. Afer watching youre video again and again, I saw this foredom!!
oki, so after scanning youre box I found it and ordered it... But then OMG!!! It needs power too!!!!! and now Im stuck!!!
That part is missing from youre video, showing everything that you need to make the ring maker work.
I would be so happy for youre assistant. And hope you do more videos and shows more teutorials. Love youre bird singing btw. Super thank you Linda
Confusing email. You ordered what? Im not sure what you are asking me. The Pepe tools jump ring maker needs a foredom flex shaft to operate the saw. with one of the two hand pieces demonstrated. So yes, the Foredom will need power. I hope this makes sense. Dave.
Thank you so much from your excellent explanation of this piece of equipment! ❤😊🙏🌸
Glad it was helpful! Dave
Thanks so much for this video.. The instructions that came with it were hard to understand. Your video was a piece of cake to understand. Thanks
The "new" instruction manual (and others) are now written by me. Commissioned by Pepe. ; ) . Dave
Thanks Dave. Amazing explanations as always. Super demo!
Teresa in OKLA
Hi Teresa, I hope you are enjoying your new Jump Ring maker. Nice to hear from you again. Best Wishes, Dave
Thank you, this is a wonderful clear video. I appreciate your clarity on safety too!
Cheers fr Canada
You are welcome! Dave
great demo. thank you.
chain looks awesome..
Thank you. I will be making a video soon on how to make this exact chain. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Great review and instructions. Love you Dave
Thank you kindly! Dave
Great tip and awesome job . Thank you for sharing!!!
Thanks for watching. Perhaps check out my Byzantine video, to see how I actually make that chain. Dave
czcams.com/video/OmNRbWeKASM/video.html
subscribed because of the video and work quality. Well done
Thank you. Enjoy!. Dave
Thanks for an informative and interesting video! Keep it up!
Thanks. If you haven't seen it, do check out the Byzantine video and see what I do with the jump rings and how I turn them into a bracelet. Dave czcams.com/video/OmNRbWeKASM/video.html
I'm SO glad I found this video! I was so close to committing hundreds of dollars to one of those rip-off makers - but now I know about the Pepe tool, I'll be getting the real deal. Thank you!
Yes a lot of fakes and copes out there. But in 2023 my Pepetools is still going strong and stil works perfectly (new saw blades of course) Dave.
@@CelticDreamsCoUk
Thank you for your kind reply! My Pepe Tools Jumpring Tool will arrive in another week or so.. and I would love to ask you some Q's. I really want to start working my chain mai̇lle in Sterling Silver mostly using 16g & 18g, but I will also use some 20g. So what is the best temper for these to use on the Pepe Tool for the strongest, best quality Sterling jumprings? And would you recommend that I practise cutting with a cheaper material first? And if so, what material/temper should I practise with? I do value your expertise & advice - THANK YOU!!
Kindest regards,
J. Whiteoak 🇦🇺
@@CelticDreamsCoUk
My Pepe Tools Jumpring Maker FINALLY arrived! But there's no lube, no instructions (thank you for your video!), and no wire-size guide (that's OK - I downloaded it from the Internet). So what can I use in place of the Pepe lube (petroleum jelly? aka Vaseline?) And what temper SS or gold-filled wire do you recommend for making the strongest, best quality jump-rings? I was thinking of ordering half-hard, but would it be too difficult to wrap around the mandrel? I very much appreciate your video and hope you can reply as your expert advice would be invaluable, thank you! You do beautiful Chain Mai̇lle.. I hope mine will be half as nice as yours ❤️ I'm just a beginner but I'm very determined.
Also, is there a particular type or brand of tumbler that you would recommend?
Thank you & have a great day!
Kindest regards from Australia 🇦🇺❤️🇬🇧
Great video. Love your emphasis on safety. Nice tool. I never had a problem making jump rings with a dowel or some other mandrel and a jeweler's saw though. Wrap them around, slide the coil off and saw through them at an angle. EezeePeezee. For making a lot if jump rings in a hurry though I can see what a great tool this is.
Quite correct, If I only want one, for attaching a charm, I'll just wrap and saw one by hand. But for hundreds to make a necklace, then the JRM is invaluable. Thanks for watching. Dave
Excellent video! Thankz Dave!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching. Dave
Great tutorial. Thanks Dave! 😊☀️👍
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. Dave
Looking at this tool again, there are some very nice design details on this jump ring maker over what I might call 'the inferior version'. by another maker ;) The coil winder is where the work is done, and those brass bushings sure look strong--obviously the winding action will never get sloppy and produce loose coils. Also, how the post to the coil winder tapers to the base is a nice feature--it gives you more clearance to bolt securely to a the work surface. And, solid machined metal is always preferable to a piecework of various parts that might come loose over time. If I get into making chain mail, I know which version I'll buy.... just few thoughts to your excellent product review!
Well spotted. the version 2 had a two part post. Nothing wrong with it at all, but the one piece, as you say is much more solid. Pepe keep tweaking small details on each production run, so their tools are constantly evolving. And lets face it, they're pretty good to start with. Dave
You are a terrific teacher. THanks
You're welcome. Thanks for watching. Dave
Thanks! Great video, I'll definitely be buying the real thing now!
Thanks for watching. Dave
hi Dave just to let you know the large hand piece on the Dremel is just a little to big to fit the Pepe jumpring maker. but the good news is the FordomH30 fits the Dremel fortiflex, which is the set up i have.
Hi Victor Thanks for that. Indeed the Dremel fortiflex does look like the foredom H30, So I did wonder if it would fit. So thanks for confirming that it doesn't. Good to know. Dave.
I'd like to thank you for all your wonderful videos! I'm semi-retired and have always had a fascination for chainmaille. I'm hoping to get into it as a hobby in my semi-retirement and I'm watching all of your videos multiple times to gain knowledge prior to taking the plunge. I will say though, you use wire gauges that are not equal to the gauges here in the US, so when you specify certain sizes and aspect ratios, I can only come close. I'm trying to make your full persian cross using substitute sizes and any advice you have would be helpful. ...and that's part of my reason for checking out making my own rings. Perhaps I can then get closer to what others specify in my learning curve.
I get asked this a lot, regarding the Persian cross. to 18g 1/4" rings, or 16g 5/16" rings. If you check my video on the Persian cross, you'll see how the large rings pass through the center points of four rings placed in a square (using the same wire). Hope this helps. Dave
A few good resources here...
theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=230
Very helpful video. Thank you very much!!!
Very Helpful product. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Very nice video! Quality
Its a great Item. I wouldn't be without it. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Great video! I like the way you say "Be curefull the bluude could be shurp"
Yes! .... My northern English accent. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Excellent video, thank you for your insight:)
Glad it was helpful! Dave
Your videos are excellent with lots of information. Thank you for taking the time to make them. One question when you put your cut rings into a tumbler how long do you leave them in for and do you add anything else to the tumbler other than water?
I Usually leave them overnight. Bu an hour will be sufficient. I use steel shot, pins, water and burnishing powder- very important. See the video below. Dave. m.czcams.com/video/yXFr6rLOxms/video.html
Celtic Dreams Thank you Dave l will tumble my jump rings properly now.
I received my dremel 8050 today thanks for your advice. Ann
Glad it worked for you,
I ordered this from Gesswein and where the mandrels and the maker itself were and are great, I found the cutting system to be ridiculously dangerous and in the end it didn't work. The blade literally exploded after cutting only 5 or so and that was that. I wouldn't expect the blades to last very long just based on their thickness, the worst part if that they're $16 per blade from my Canadian supplier.
I just stick with jewellers saw..
+Daniel Wright I use it quite a lot and its always worked perfectly. My friend has the older blue mark 1 version. Again very well used and never a problem. I do think that some people overload it. I spoke to one guy who tried to cut steel wire and melted the blade - well you will. Its also important to run it the correct way round and to cut in the right direction. Incorrect use could cause the blade to jam.
But the saw will cut copper or silver quite easily (like butter) if used correctly and within its suggested tolerances.
I wouldn't dismiss it. Check that you have set everything up correctly and have the genuine Pepe blade and lube. Ensure the blade is cutting towards you at the bottom as shown in my video close up, and is cutting into the silver (not away from it). its just a saw and so it used correctly it WILL work. Hope this help you in some way. Dave.
if you've used it correctly and still have a problem then do get in touch with Pepe, they will be very interested to hear from you and discuss you experience. Its a family run company and they are every nice people. : ) Dave.
Celtic Dreams I've been having the same issue but I think it has to do with being left-handed. Thank you for showing the different set up for the blade - excellent instructions and I'm hoping to try again taking into consideration the direction of the blade. Cheers, Thea
I am retired but worked in the industrial motor field. I cant remember the company name but there are solid carbide blades that will cut stainless they are for cutting mica on comutators. blades come in different diameters and thickness. they fit the arbor the same way and have the keyway for location. hope this helps someone. excellent vidio Doc Goodluck
Thanks, the guys over at Pepe are aware of various blades, but opted for the thinner ones for precision. Note the JRM2 is really designed for jewellers using non ferrous metals. Although I do agree that I think there is a market for a more robust one, for the many armourers who make steel chain mail. Thanks for watching. Dave
I invented a jump ring jig that is less complicated, uses less space, is just as precision, is just as fast and a fraction of the cost.
Brass rods for the mandrels, brass rods for the jig. A little effort to make the jig, easy as eating Rocky Road ice cream. 😊
Many solutions to making jump rings. I too have seen many methods. The main danger is that of using a saw blade uncovered in a flex shaft or Dremel. So (to me) the real selling point of the JRM2 is safety. Thanks for watching, and contributing. Dave
Thank you for the great video. I have the first version of the jump ring maker, and I am very happy with it. But I've been having trouble with cutting, my flex shaft is Gobet 1/8 hp 120v and it seems to back up or shaft coils when I try to cup 18 or 16 gauge copper wire. Should I replace my flex shaft with a Foredom? Is so which one would you recommend ?
Ok two part question. Firstly your flex shaft should be fine. Its not about raw power. Think a bout your piercing saw, you dont need strength to cut. If its twisting up that means that the saw blade is binding and getting stuck. Usually that means you blade is blunt. Take it out and check it over with a magnifying loupe. When new they are fiercely sharp, like razor blades. if its getting blunt the teeth become rounded. Also check for a broken tooth. You only need 1, to cause the blade to lock up. Either way, get a new blade. Obviously, ensure its fitted the right way round, and aligned in the centre. Don't forget to add the burr life or pep lube to the top of the coil, this is important. But make sure the rest of the coil holder is clean, so avoid the rings slipping. Also note that there are two blade sizes, too small and it will struggle with the larger wire, too big and you can cut right though both sides of small coils. anneal your wire too, (perhaps even anneal the coils) as it can become very hard when coiling.
As for Flex shafts. I am huge fan of Foredom. I have the SR which I think is 1/4 HP. but they also make the TX range which is high torque for wood carving etc. Always good investments. But your current one should be fine. Its the blade that cuts (or not) - simple as that. Hope this helps. Dave.
Yes, at first glance it is easy
Indeed, it's very easy - and fast. Dave
Your so cool thank you for sharing have a nice day blessings to you always
You're very welcome. Thanks for such a lovely comment. Dave.
Dave, I just wanted to say thank you very, very much for a wonderful demonstration and review. I appreciate that you talked about all the aspects of it and gave clear visuals with your instructions. I will definitely be looking into getting this now, since I found your channel looking for a good ring maker. The one question I have is about how long does the blade last before it needs to be replaced (assuming no misuse, naturally) ?
You've also earned yourself a sub, thanks again for a great video!
Thanks for taking the time to leave such a lovely comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and got something from it. As for your question, it's impossible to answer. But what i can say is this. With my first blade I made 6 or 7 byzantine bracelets, a large copper bracelet and several other tasks with it over the past year. The blade cut fine and consistently. I recently made my own square wire in the mill, which is very tough due to being work hardened and 1.5 mm square. This broke two blades, one after the other. So i was obviously pushing it with that. So definitely keep a couple of spare blades in stock. And as you say, be sensible with it. I've heard of many chain mailers trying to cut steel wire and wondering why the blades break. But used properly with precious metals and non ferrous, it will last for quite a while. I guess when it gets blunt that's when it will jam and break. Check out my video on the byzantine chain where i use it to make my rings. Dave.
czcams.com/video/Dg3GrCj5P3g/video.html
This video was helpful. I am new to making chainmail. I love it and decided that I needed to make my own jump rings. I purchased the Pepe JRM2 you demonstrated as well as a Foredom Flex Shaft 2230. I used stainless steel 18 gauge wire to make my first coil. I made several as needed. When I attempted to cut the first coil I had problems. I had followed the instructions to the letter as far as the set up. I used the lube and made sure the blade was centered in the guide, brought the blade to full speed and proceeded toward the coil slowly as directed. I had smoking and sparks and then the blade stopped. Examination showed that only a few rings had been cut and they were very tarnished from heat. I am not wanting to waste more coils if my technique is faulty or perhaps the stainless steel 18 gauge is too hard for the blade that came with the JRM2. Can you advise me please as to what I am doing wrong and how to proceed to do it as smoothly as you showed?
Terry Brown Hi Terry. Two things. Firstly check that the saw blade is rotating in the correct direction, or you don't have the foredom in reverse. If the rings are getting hot then the blade isn't cutting and you are getting excessive friction.
The other thing I would say is that 18ga stainless steel wire is probably a bit tough for the fine saw blade. I'm not sure what the official ratings are, but I'm sure that's going to be too hard. Try some copper or silver rings, but before you do anything. check the condition of your blade. I suspect you may have burnt the teeth off, in which case you'll need a new blade.
Its a great tool, but it does have a limit. let me know how you get on. Also Pepe are very nice if you contact them. I've just sent an email to my friend at Pepe to check the limits of what this can cut- I'll post the response here.
Shout if you need any help. Kind regards
Dave
mail@celticdreams.co.uk
Celtic Dreams Just looking on M.A.I.L chain mail forum and another lady with the "exact" same problem cutting 18ga SS and the blade blunt after two rings.. Everyone is saying to her, you just cant cut 18ga stainless steel coils with that equipment, try silver or copper. So my initial thought seems to be correct. Hope this helps.
Celtic Dreams Just got a reply back from my friend at Pepe, and he agrees. 18ga stainless steel is just to tough for the Pepe blades. Dave.
Celtic Dreams Is there a blade you would recommend for me to use for stainless steel? Additionally I just coiled some 16 gauge copper wire and tried it. While making the cut it was smoother and did not stop the blade the 1-1/4 inch blade did not cut entirely through the coil and so still there is difficulty. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Hey! Thanks for the super comprehensive video. I make really tiny chain maille. I was wondering if you know if I can use this with 26 and 24 gauge stainless steel wire? If not , do you know of a machine that I can use for stainless steel? Also I use knitting needles as mandrels, you think those will work with this?
The thing with very small coils is the saw blade. It comes with two sizes of blade. You want enough depth to cut the wire, but not too deep to cut the other side and slice your coils in half. If this is the case you can modify you JRM by adding a two strips of card / metal / plastic, to the top of the coil holder (where the long slot is) just to lift up the blade a fraction. That said, with such fine wire, you can get just as good results using fine pointed tin snips or scissors. Dave
I'm new to this so please excuse my lack of knowledge... do you have a video about using a handpiece? I'm assuming it plugs into something with a motor. What are all the tools required...?
Yes. I made a full video on the Flex shaft. See below. Dave
czcams.com/video/4CB3lRh2c74/video.html
Thank you great info
Glad it was helpful! Dave
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!
+yubidubi ..Thank you. Dave.
Nice! Any thoughts on how to cut overlapping rings for riveted chain mail?
Hi Chad, DO check out the rest of the comments below. The blade on the JRM, is designed for non ferrous metals. So it you are thinking about steel wire, then you need to think of a different way of cutting them. copper, brass, aluminium, silver & gold are fine. So it depends on the material you want to use. Dave.
Nice video, thanks!
+dragonbone5000 Thank you. Dave.
What is a tumbler?
I’m in high school taking a jewelry class, recently realized how much I actually enjoy it and I’m thinking about buying this as it’s the same one my teacher has
A tumbler (or barrelling machine) is a small barrel that rotates like a cement mixer. The silver inside "tumbles" with steel shot and soap, and is cleaned. See the video link to see one in action. Dave
czcams.com/video/yXFr6rLOxms/video.html
Ohhh love this !!!!! Is too easy !!!!
And safer! I love it and use it a lot. Thanks for watching.Dave
Those wondering, it's around £220 for one of those. Not a terrible deal, but if you're looking to make chainmaille out of the rings, you'll want a larger operation if that one only does 7.6cm at a time. You need roughly 127cm of tightly wrapped 16 gauge wire to make 1000 rings, and it takes roughly 19,500 rings to make a shirt.
So while this tool is *absolutely* amazing for jeweler's work, those looking for something to make butted maille with? This isn't for you.
I agree. the other thing i get asked a lot is, if the JRM is suitable for steel rings. It isn't, the fine saw is intended for softer precious metals. So as you say this is aimed more at the jewellery market. Which for me, it's indispensable. Thanks for the input. Dave
Good afternoon, I admire your work very much and I wanted to ask you how the burrs of the rings for the pulceras cut with pepetools beforehand are eliminated. Thank you very much for sharing your art I am from Chile and occupy the translator to write to you I hope you understand me
I use a tumbler. czcams.com/video/yXFr6rLOxms/video.html . Dave
Thanks !! Gonna Get One!!
Beware of Chinese copies. Get the genuine Pepe and you wont regret it. Dave.
Are you a distributor ? Where is the best place to purchase? And if I mention you and your video, do you get an extra cookie (U.S), or biscuit (EU), or smiley face?
No, I'm not a distributor. I am a jeweller. You ask where you can buy one, but unfortunately I have no idea where you are or even what country you are in. But hopefully the following links will help. Dave
In the UK... www.bettsmetalsales.com/p-Pepe-Jump-Ring-Maker?SelectMaterial=TOO&selectCode=TOOLSSW099
In the USA... www.ottofrei.com/New-Version-Pepe-307-70-Jump-Ring-Maker
Very nice ring maker, but I have a question regarding this device, I don't work on jewelry making but what I do work on is repairing fishing reels. And I was in the hunt for a spring making tool to make different springs and happen to run into the tool that you use. It looks very handy because of the different sizes of mandrels it uses. How big of a gauge of wire will the tool that you use take?
Great video,
thanks
I guess the limit would be slotting the wire through the hole in the mandrel or into the jaws of the chuck. Ive used 3mm wire, quite happily. Dave
Interesting machine. Like to see it done at the normal speed because my impression is that one could do it almost as fast with a cordless variable speed drill, a jewelers saw and a sawing peg without laying out $200....
I'm confident to say that the JRM2 is just as fast as any other method for the coils. Winding the coils using an electric drill or using the JRM2 is no different. If winding by hand with the JRM2 you can easily wind faster than your hand can accurately hold the wire.
Where the JRM really saves the time is in the sawing, as you can cut a 3" coil in just about 4 seconds, wheres no one can saw by hand that fast and accurate no matter how good you are. One or two rings perhaps, but when you need hundreds for a chain mail item, then there is simply no contest.
I have the coil winder permanently clamped to my bench and the saw attachment permanently fitted to a snap on handpiece. So there's virtually no setup time. I just wind all my coils, then saw them all in one go.
It really depends on how many jump rings you make. if just a couple for attaching things, then yes make them by hand. if you are a hard core mailer making chain mail suits then there are more industrial system out there for making high volume jump rings.
But for me, I can make hundreds of jump rings, in just a couple of minutes with perfect precision and accuracy, and they will all close neatly. So personally, it paid for itself in the first couple of bracelets I made. For me, its the best bargain in my workshop. Dave
Thanks, well done.
Thanks for watching. Dave
Perfect job ! Best
Thanks for watching. Dave
Beautiful
Thanks for watching.Dave
Hello. I couldn't find the Jump ring maker at Pepetools, any subjections? Thank you for the great video.
They always have it, it's one of their signature tools.
pepetools.com/collections/jump-ring-tools/products/jump-ring-maker-jrm2#
Dave
That looks like a very well-designed product--I've appreciated every Pepe tool I own. Do they explain the reason for aluminium mandrels? Just curious, because aluminium is a softer metal. I have made a setup, but with tool steel mandrels. One advantage I see with steel is I can polish a whole bunch of jump rings on it, and not worry much about wearing away the mandrel. Still, I'm not faulting the product, it looks like a quicker way to make jump rings over my method.
The mandrels are not aluminium, they are hardened steel. Aluminium would be too soft especially for the thinner ones. They are galvanised or plated to aid corrosion resistance. Stainless steel would be nice though ! Dave
Thanks Dave--I was confused by the high polish--that makes total sense.
hi dave
i was looking to buy this "jmr2", but i am really confused
i see the latest version of this , but there are two versions one the tray of the mandrels is black and look like plastic (not sure about the big tray /base if it is plastic ) - this version is pormaly appear on the PEPE site.
the other version is look exactly like the one you demonstrate on your video (with aluminum -silver color mandrels).
this is a new version? if both are version 2.1 there is any diffrence betwin them?
i see still alot of stores are selling the version 2.0 , except the winding attachment which now mounting in one piece , there are any diffrences betwin version 2.0 and 2.1 ?
are you selling this tool ? if yes, i will be super glad to buy it directly from you .
thanks in advance
RL
Pepe constantly improve and update their products, So do expect minor changes as time goes on. I believe they did make one with a black ABS plastic tray. There is also another model with a two part stand (the JRM 2.0). There will be variations around. but all are the same great quality. Hope this helps. Dave.
Just received a Pepe tool jump ring maker for Christmas. I am having trouble. First of all, I am left handed and I think I have my blade inserted correctly but the coils seem to move forward and the blade just nicks the top of the coil. This is a little frustrating. Any tips? I appreciate your informative video but I am having trouble because I think maybe I am not putting enough pressure on the coils. I would appreciate some help.
Hello. Its difficult to understand what you mean. But the coil should not move. So it sounds like the blade is turning in the wrong direction. The blade should cut "towards" the coil as you pull it towards you. and the blade actually cuts upwards (look again at the macro close up of the saw in the unit). If you flip the blade for left handed use, then remember to put the Foredom in reverse. Again, check that the blade is cutting towards you and upwards, with the teeth pointing upwards at the front cutting edge. Hope this helps. Dave
Hello Dave, does this jump ring maker works with the Dremel Fortiflex?
+Irene van Blommestein ....Hi. I haven't tried that but it looks like it should. The Dremel 9102 handpiece on the Fortiflex appears to be the same as the Foredom 30 handpiece. The only real consideration is that it has the same diameter to fit inside the saw cover sleeve. Hope this helps.
Hello! I learned how to make the Byzantine chain from you - very good and clear instructions. Thank you! After watching this demonstration of the new Pepe Tool jump ring maker, what is the maximum wire gauge that I can cut with the Pepe Tool? Does the wire have to be dead soft or can I use half hard? Do you have any tips on how to cut the thicker wire without the blade shattering into a bunch of pieces? I look forward to your response.
I used my first blade for almost a year, cutting just 1mm and 1.2mm annealed silver. recently I made my own 1.6 mm square wire from silver cast ingots using the rolling mill, which even after annealing was very hard. I coiled and cut this into jump rings, but lost three blades doing this. so for me, that is about the safe limit when using tough wire. Tips are as per my video. Ensure the blade is running before beginning the cut. Keep the blade lubricated. Change any blunt blade. Note too that there are two blade sizes. too small and it wont cut through, too big and it may cut through both sides of a small coil. So its important to use the appropriate size. I'd say aluminium and high carat gold could go larger. But copper or hard silver are usually best under 1.6 mm. Either way always keep spare blades handy. Hope this helps. Dave
Happy belated St. Patrick's Day! Thank you for your speedy reply. Much appreciated. Sounds like I really need to start with "dead soft" / annealed sterling silver wire in order for it to cut properly with the Pepe Tool. Then after, do you tumble the cut jump rings in steel shot to work harden them? I don't foresee a problem with the smaller id jump rings with warping or bending, but what about the larger id ones? Thanks for your help!
I tumble everything to work harden them. Its not as violent as you might think. I tumble 0.7mm wire earring hooks. they don't get mauled up by the tumbler. Its a vert subtle and gentle process of rubbing rather than bashing. I should explain at this point that i use a Lortone 3A rubber barrel which does NOT have internal vanes. A larger unit with vanes (which lift and drop the shot) may be a little harder on delicate items, but will produce much more work hardening. Hope this make sense. Dave
Hello Dave I have a question for you. after I have used the pepe saw and I run my finger over the split rings I can feel rough edges. Even when I bend flush rings I can still feel it. how can I get rid of them , will tumbling get rid of them?
Yes indeed. Tumble them. This will remove the burs and also work harden the rings. Dave
thanks mate!
Than you. Dave.
Great video. Just ordered one. Do you know what the largest gauge wire it will safely cut?
Difficult to say. It depends on the material. Aluminium is easy and so you can go to the max that the blade will reach (probably a couple of mm). But hard steel should be avoided. Mine came with two different diameter blades, so naturally the larger blade will cut deeper. Dave
Thanks for the super fast response. I would be cutting sterling and gold-filled wire. I'll look for the larger blade.
Dear Dave Thank you for a fantastic video , i would like to know what is the length of the Mandrels(net and gross)?
No problem....The thing to note, as in my video is that your coil needs to fit into the coil holder but allow space for the blade to be inserted. all the mandrels are 4" long (10 cm). The larger ones have a step at the end and a wire hole, so the max coil is just over 3" (7.6cm) Which equates to the mark on the coil holder. The smaller mandrels don't have a step or wire hole, but these still need to be inserted into the chuck, so same as. 4" mandrels, 3" coils. if using 1mm wire, and making a full 76mm coil, then that's about 76 rings in one go. divide 76mm by the wire thickness to get an idea. Hope all this helps. Dave.
Thank you very much , your answer is very informative and really helped me
Thank you for this terrific video. If you are still on CZcams can you tell me where I can buy an authentic one? I see them on Amazon. Is it safe to purchase from them?
Buy direct from pepetools.com. Dave
What is the flex shaft that is recommended for the 30 headpiece and Chuck key?
The Foredom SR series is recommended. You could also use the TX high power versions, but they are more expensive and not really necessary. You can of course use any other flax shaft system as long as you can attach the Foredom H30 handpiece. Note that you can get the Foredom H30 handpiece in snap on or slip joint fittings, so pretty much any flex shaft will work with it. Hope this helps. Dave
Hi Dave, do you have to purchase the hand piece separately or does it come all together???
Everything as you see it on the stand. The only thing extra is the flex shaft required to drive it. Specifically the H30 Handpiece comes with the foredom flex shaft. Although, Pepe & Foredom now do a combined Kit, which I belive is available from Riogrande.com. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk thanks for replying x
If you have your choice of wire temper, do you prefer dead soft or half hard for this system? Thanks!
Always the softer the better. Particularly when winding the coils, as hard wire can spring back a little, meaning your jump rings end up a little bigger than they should be. a real issue with chain mail where aspect ratios need to be accurate. Soft annealed wire will bend easier and will not spring back, giving a more accurate coil and precisely sized jump rings. You can always toughen the jump rings up later by running them in a tumbler (barrel polisher) with steel shot. Dave
You're terrific. Thanks for the quick and thorough response. I've learned SO much from your complete and well photographed videos. Keep 'em coming!
Thanks for watching. Dave
I'm trying to find that rolling block that has the rollers in it so you can flatten or square your chains I can't even find the name of the tool let alone where to get one
Do you mean a Rolling Mill? Dave czcams.com/video/BsfJYi-G1D8/video.html
I'm thinking about buying a Pepetools Jump Ring maker, but I want to make jump rings which are smaller than the standard Pepetools mandrels which are supplied with the kit (I've purchased a 1.5mm brass rod to wrap the wire around instead). Possible problems: 1. Blade may not reach small jumprings (1.5mm internal diameter) 2. if the blade creates a 0.3mm gap it might end up removing a sizable amount of a small jump ring's circumference. Any thoughts?
The blade will "reach" but if using the larger blade (there are two sizes), the danger is cutting the coil completely in half. You are correct (in theory) about reducing the circumference. but this is very negligible. That's why the pepetools blade is so thin. Also any coil will have a certain amount of "spring back" making it fractionally larger than the mandrel. So the final result should still be pretty spot on. If you do decide to buy, remember to use the link below and you get a slight discount and i get a small commission too. ; ) Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thanks very much, it's great to get your thoughts on this. And thanks for making such an informative video!
This is probably a stupid question but how do you get the saw to work? It didn't look like it had any wires or battery to it. Do you have to have another machine to hook up to the saw to make it spin? Sorry if that sounds dumb i am just a bit confused.
Not a dumb question at all. The saw attaches to a Foredom Flex shaft (Pendant Motor) which the tool is designed for. (rather like an old fashioned dentists drill) The Flex shaft provides the power, which is controlled by a foot pedal. Hope this makes sense. Dave
great video
+chandru Deep Thank you. Dave. : )
Do they have this in square Mandrell instead of round?
Hmm, not seen square ones. I have a feeling I've seen oval ones somewhere. No reason why you cant make your own for a specific job. Use a piece of wood, or plastic and wind by hand. Or round off the end inch with a file for fitting into the chuck. Dave.
Me again, if it does work with the Dremel, where in Europe can I buy the Jump ring maker (I live in France)
+Irene van Blommestein .... Well you can certainly buy them from Sutton Tools in the UK, but postage might be expensive as they are heavy. Try checking out the dealer locator at the Pepe tools web site. Dave.
pepetools.com/dealer-locator
I watch your whole video and yes it was very informative with the exception that you don't say you have to order additional parts to be able to use this pepetools jump ring kit 2. After spending $240 to buy the kit then I find out I have to buy Foredom h30 handpiece and then I also have to buy the flex shaft which is going to snow cost another couple of hundred dollars I would have never ordered this otherwise. I just think you should definitely let people know that if they're going to make their own jump Rings it's going to cost approximately $500.00 to get started. I'm going to obviously have to take the losses on this cuz I can't afford to get all these other different parts for it so for your viewers for their knowledge and hopefully they'll save some money they're getting into something that's going to be way too much money for them.
I'm sorry if that was not clear in my demonstration. At almost 400,000 views you are the first person to mention this. Yes the JRM needs a Foredom flex shaft. Which I do explain in the video at 6:30 along with suggested handpieces that are compatible. For those who don't already have a Foredom flex shaft, Pepetoos & Foredom now sell a complete kit, at a discounted price. See link. Dave.
pepetools.com/collections/bench-tools-1/products/jump-ring-maker-jrm2?variant=31247081504900&aff=4
Hello, I’m a wire wrapper looking for a faster way to make chains for my pendants.
I just got the Durston jump ring maker from Rio Grande and found your video while looking for a demonstration for how to set it up.
Now I’m worried I got the ripoff, and am thinking if I should send it back.
Any help would be appreciated, your videos are amazing.
A very contentious subject. You've really poked the hornet's nest with that question. The JRM was designed and made by the guys at Pepetools. Yes, it was totally ripped off by a certain British company (who I will not name). How do I know this? because they sent me the original prototype 'copy' to test in secret. Which I refused to do, in disgust. - it even had a Pepetools saw blade in it! totally shameless!
You may also observe the same "British company" makes a ring bender. and have recently changed the design of their rolling mills. Pepetools spend a fortune on research and testing, only to have all their tools ripped off by a certain other company.
If you are in the USA then support your fellow Americans. Pepetools are made by a small family-run company, in Oklahoma. They are good people. Hence why despite being offered "absolutely everything", I flatly refuse to endorse the copies. Hope this answers your question. Dave
pepetools.com/products/jump-ring-maker-jrm2?aff=4
Another great product reveiw - thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.Dave
Thank you for the video.
My family owned a gold store. When I was young, I saw my father make super long gold wire I ask him to teach me so I can help him to make some jewelry however, he refused just because I am a girl :(
Thanks for watching. There's lots of info on CZcams now, so get stuck in and have a go. Dave.
Do you need to get a separate Foredom motor kit to use this tool, or can you use this manually? Thanks!
I'm only worried about having a US plug which comes with the motor and this not being able to work if you have UK plugs. Your video is great and very informative so thank you for posting!
Yes you need a foredom flex shaft with a H30 handpiece, for use with the saw attachment. That's really the whole point of the tool. Manually. would mean cutting the rings with a jewellers saw by hand, which makes the JRM2 a little pointless. Foredom make the SR flex shaft in either USA or UK versions (and others). Dave
Thanks so much for replying! So if I wanted to use this in the UK I’ll have to specifically buy the Foredom flex shaft UK version... unfortunately I can’t seem to find one online. Please advise where I could buy a UK version - I really appreciate your time & help! Thank you!
www.bettsmetalsales.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=foredom&vesbrand=19
Betts metals (now own Sutton tools) have a great range of fordeom flex shaft handpieces and accessories, here in the UK. They also sell Pepetools such as the jump ring maker.
www.bettsmetalsales.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=pepe&vesbrand=26
Dave
OK, another jump ring making process question. I have a number of coils I made from wire in a few different gauges and diameters. I'd like to tumble them in one session but need a foolproof method of keeping the 2.50 distinct from the 2.75 mm, etc. Any tricks you use??
A loop of wire. thread them all on, and twist the end. Dave
Celtic Dreams thanks again.
Are there adjustable speed for the saw motor?
The saw is powered by the Foredom Flex shaft, which is controlled by a foot pedal. So yes, its adjustable speed. Also means you can stop if there's a problem and you've still got both hands. Dave
Great! Can i can it in UK? Can i get the blade replacement? How much cost if i import it into UK? Thank you
Yes you can get it in the UK with various blades too. See the link below. Dave
www.bettsmetalsales.com/c-JUMP-RING-MAKERS/?SelectMaterial=TOO
Celtic Dreams WITH THE OLD TOOLS LIKE THIS DO YOU SALE THEM I AM LOOKING FOR ONE OF THESE BUT CANT AFFORD WHAT THEY ASK
No I don't usually sell any of my tools. But this is the 2nd version of the Pepe jump ring maker. You may see the version1 around for sale, perhaps on eBay. Dave.
pepetools.com/bench-tools/jump-ring-maker
can you use the JRM2.1 to cut stainless steel of 16 Awg?
Risky. The JRM uses a ‘very’ thin blade, to give a very fine cut and minimise wastage. Perfect for silver and gold, but somewhat fragile when it comes to steel wire. It’s not really what the thing was designed for. Hope this helps. Dave
Gracias por compartir...
Gracias. Dave
Is here a way to get these things separately? Because I need everything besides the winding tool and I would prefer not to have to pay for a tool I won’t use
I know what you mean, I often use a cordless drill for speed. I don't believe they officially sell the bits separately apart from spare saw blades. But you can always ask them. They are nice guys and so may be able to sort you out a deal. see link. Dave info@pepetools.com
Celtic Dreams thank you so much for answering my comment, I’ll definitely try talking to them. I really admire how active you are in your comment section. Have a great day.
How did you get in to this buddy? I'd love to start having a go at making jewellery. What sort of set up cost is involved for a fully featured workshop and also do you have classes etc or recommend any? Thanks very much
small question, big answer. initially i just made celtic knot bracelets using 1mm wire. So my first ever tool order, was just for soldering equipment eg a small butane (lighter gas) torch (£10), soldering block, solder, pickle powder, a borax cone and dish. I had a couple of pairs of cheap pliers from the local market and a packet of really cheap diamond files. that's about it. pliers to bend the wire, and some very cheap gear to solder the bracelets. I then bought a Dremel type tool, to assist with polishing, then later a cheap barrelling machine (tumbler). That pretty much did me for about 15 years, until moving and then setting up a proper workshop. I now have many nice tools, such as oxygen generator, mag polisher and a welder. But these tools only make me faster. The real tool is creativity. Hope this helps. Dave
Happy to chat if you want to email or message me.
facebook.com/Celticdreams.co.uk/
Can you make smaller than the 2.5 mm smallest mandrel?
Of course, just use whatever you've got. knitting needles, drill bits, rods, anything. as long as it will fit in the chuck. remember to keep you coils short enough to fit in the coil cutter. Dave
- und wenn du fertig bist mit reden, kannst du dir ein Kettenhemd bauen, das Video hat mir sehr gefallen
Danke fürs Zuschauen. Dave
Will the cutter be effective on harder metals like steel?
A popular question, usually from the hardcore chain mailers. The JRMII is really designed for jewellers, so the saw blades are rather like round razor blades, they are razor thin. This gives a superb clean cut and almost zero wastage, when used with precious and nonferrous metals. But steel and other ferrous alloys will be too tough for the fine blade and would destroy it instantly. it would get real costly, real quick. I have spoken to my friends at Pepe about perhaps offering a heavier duty blade. So far, the others we have tried haven't been successful. I'd also suggest that constant lubrication would be required for cutting heavy gauge steel rings. I have seen people do this on CZcams with DIY Drills and coolant pumps. Hope this answers your question. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk it does thank you. I do some jewelry work with heavier metals like steel. I'll keep using a hand saw for now
I am getting into wrapping jewelry, but here in the United States I'm having a hard time trying to find a decent supplier of just sterling silver wire! Do you have a store where I would be able to buy some from you in the United States?
Hi Tracy. I don't sell wire. I am a jeweller, I just sell my work. Also I am in England Uk not in the USA. However, if you are looking for sterling silver wire, try Rio Grande. They seem to be about the biggest jewellery supplier in the USA. see the link. Dave
www.riogrande.com/product/sterling-silver-round-wire-dead-soft/100304gp
Thank you so very much! You have no idea how you have helped me! My search is over thank goodness! Many blessings to you and your Channel!
Riogrande is your first stop for anything you need in the USA. Dave
I rolled/ made the coils using copper wire and then when i pass the cutting wheel it undo the coils and does not cut. What am I doing wrong?
Obviously ensure the saw is the correct way around and rotating in the right direction etc. But assuming all that’s correct…. Three top tips…
Firstly, avoid having everything covered in lubricant or oil, especially the coil holder. It can’t hold the coil tightly if everything is slippery. Only the blade should be lubricated, nothing else.
Second apply a strip of double sided tape along the grove in the coil holder, underneath the coil. This will add grip to prevent the coil from sipping.
Third (Mega tip!), Use large “paper” sticky label over the coil and coil holder, tucking it in tightly on both sides and both ends. I use ¼ A4 postage labels. The coil should be completely covered by the paper label. So before you screw down the top plate, the coil should be firmly taped down. (remember it has the double-sided tape under it too) When you saw, the blade will cut through the paper label and the coil. Remove the cover, Thread a long piece of wire along the inside of the coil and pull out all the rings in one go. Twist the end of the wire and throw the rings in the tumbler all on one loop. Simple! Note the little bits at the end of the coils will stick to the label too !
For each coil use a new label and cover completely. Hope this all makes sense. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thank you for your insight
Where do you buy silver and gold wire and soldering?
Here in the UK I get mosty supplies from cooksongold.com, in the USA try Riogrande.com Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thank you!