1005. How To Sharpen Countersinks
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2016
- In this video I show a low tech method for sharpening single flute countersinks. This method will allow you to sharpen these valuable tools many times so they always perform well in steel, wood and composites.
(1) Came from the LPL comment on the Project-Farm Plier video.
(2) Nice video; good audio, good camera, clear instructions.
(3) +1.
Thanks for the info. I never gave a second thought about trying to sharpen them. Just go and get a new one! Luckily, I never throw anything away and will have to go back and give this a whirl!
great little video here, thank you for sharing you wisdom, Chers from Florida, Paul
Great video, great idea. I look forward to tuning up my countersinks.
Question- could you drill a hole in your angle guard that is the diameter of the shank of the counter sink, slide the sink thru and then lock in it in your chuck? This would in theory keep a steady axis for your countersink to spin within. And It looks like you would have room to slide the bit back from the surface of the grinder with this set up.
45,000 views and only 317 likes? As far as I am concerned that is about 44,500 freeloaders who have no appreciation for your work and the effort you put into these videos.
Thanks WVM.
Thank you for your highly informative videos. I subscribed to learn more of your techniques.
Great video, it's help alots on most of the workshop, appreciated your efforts to make this video. Cheers, hope to see more similar video from you.
That sure looked like a Clausing drill press.....
but I may be wrong...
.wonderful way to make those countersinks run forever...
especially using the drill chuck to hole and rotate....Paul
It is a Clausing drill press. I think it was made in 1972. It is joy to work on with all its unique features.
I have always had a hard time getting these things sharpened well. I am looking forward to trying your way! I also like your quick clamping method in this video...thanks man!
Thanks for watching. You can see what light pressure I am using into the wheel so each touch up on the grinding wheel is only removing just a minimum of steel. That maple stick is about 42" long and when I lean down on the far end with my left elbow it really pins drill press parts down. You will notice I let the countersink find center in the hole and then apply pressure. This allows for a very true drilling setup quickly. Allan
something that has worked really well for me is to use the countersink first then drill the hole. but that's probably because I would try to line everything up, clamp it then cut the hole...your way seems a lot faster! thank you!
Great tip Allan. I've been touching up my countersink by hand with a diamond stick. I'll be giving this way a go soon. Thanks
The problem with that is while the cutting lip may be sharp if you do not remove material on the rest of the conic section that material will interfere and keep cutting lip from contacting the work piece.
kinda like the depth gauges on the teeth of a chain saw
That Wilsonart stuff blunts bits so fast. I had to buy 3 router bits to do a kitchen. I was constantly switching between them and sharpening 2 while I was on a break ready to be swapped out again when the current one went dull. If the bit isn't completely sharp it burns the worktop.
I subscribed. Gotta find out about not only the grinder toolrest but also the homemade quick release hold down I’m seeing here.
Thanks for the great tip. Gilles
Great info and I used it to sharpen my countersink. I thought that these things worked because the cutting edge is proud of trailing edge. Does this work because of the large empty area before the cutting edge? I'm trying to understand how they work?
Great Video. Thnx
Should I be dressing the wheel first too or it doesnt matter?
Nice tip. Does this work for multifluted countersink bits too?
It does in a modified way. You would only roll the countersink between the cutting flutes and then back off and go to the next section.
Nice. I vote for a video on your method(s) for sharpening lathe tools.
It is funny you mention that. I have a couple of tuning videos I have been scheming on doing.
Good. Scheme on.
Is this angle (49 degrees) good for all wood screws (#6 #8 & drywall screws)?
As far as I can tell all SAE flat head bolts and screws us an 82degree countersink so the grind angle would be 49degrees.
Great stuff, just a side question: what is that material you show at the beginning?
That is a solid phenolic material (like laminate but much thicker) that is sold in the US under the trade name Compact, by the Texas based laminate company Wilsonart.
Thanks chief.
question : what have you been using that penolic material for lately ? I'm not sure I saw it. looks swell.
Keep on trucking ! (from France)
My tool company makes high auxiliary fences for our VerySuperCool Tools t-square with machined aluminum extrusion. vsctools.com/shop/auxiliary-table-saw-fence/ The phenolic material is so much better than the Baltic birch plywood versions we had before.
ok, that makes sense.
I somehow started approaching the maker/DIY scene through the New Yankee Workshop and general woodworking, then folks like Jimmy DiResta and you made me appreciate the appeal of brass and general metal working.
Now i'm curious for all the other variations of starstuff, like concrete or these phenolic slabs. Oh , and I have a bunch of UHMW cable hooks in my shop thanks to your good tidings.
Anyway, all this to say... the possibilities for tinkering are endless. Thanks for being such a gentlemanly inspiration !
😎👍