THIS Is a Bad Idea // Artillery Hornet Review
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- čas přidán 17. 04. 2021
- The Artillery Hornet 3d printer checks a lot of boxes and works well once dialed in, but it's newest patent-pending feature is also the worst, and ultimately it's downfall.
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From the episode:
Artillery3D HORNET & Peet's Coffee - FIRST PRINTS & PRIZES!
• Artillery3D HORNET & P...
Bryan Vines BV3D - Install Ferrules on Ender-3 V2 Wiring
• Install Ferrules on En...
Kiri:Moto from Grid Space:
grid.space/kiri/
Does This $299 3D Printer Make The Grade? Artillery3D GENIUS Review
• Does This $299 3D Prin...
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btw. tinned wires into a screw terminal is not "better but not by much" than bare wires it is much worse because the tin will flow under the pressure of the screw and the cable will get loose over time and might short something or start a fire when it falls out of the terminal
You don't tin wires when there are mechanical vibrations.
First class, first week in soldering lessons our teacher told us: "never tin wires to screw them into a terminal block"
@@michaels3003 or heat. The big issue with tinned electrical connections is that through heat cycling the solder cracks and you get a poor connection. This causes more heat though resistance which exasperates the problem until either you either get a fire or a disconnect.
Came here to say this haha
@@prcdslnc13 As did I. Always use ferrules or just put the wires in if you really cannot is the first thing I learned ;-)
Guess you could remove the nozzle and force stuff through, but it's a super short sighted idea!
what about using standard cables to extend the cables to the hot end while keeping the cable bundle thing plugged into the extruder stepper side, then you could access the hot end with the bowden disconnected i guess
They owe Joel for the consult. He just made this thing viable in like 2 tweaks
I'm an electronics technician and have used ferrules for many years. I want to add that not all Ferrule crimping tools are the same. Use the ones that crimp from all 4 sides at the same time. The crimping head will look like a star with a square in the middle when not compressed and a square when compressed. Also make sure you strip enough wire so it sticks out the end of the ferrule and can be trimmed off once crimped. For those of you who are like me and just can't trust crimped connections you can take a soldering iron and place it on the bottom of the crimped ferrule. Once up to temperature apply solder to the wire at the end and the solder will flow along the wire into the ferrule and make that connection completely secure.
Can confirm and boost the star to square ferrules crimpers. Those things are magic
I had no idea you could do that! Solid crimp plus solder sounds very good
@@WhereNerdyisCool if I recall the crimper I use has a blue and red handle, and a rounded die with the star formation at the top, solid crimper I use for ferrules in screw down terminals, bare wire be gone!
This. Bare wires screwed into terminals at the specified torque is far better than badly crimped ferrules. In fact, the terminal blocks were designed for bare wires. Never use a cheap-o crimping tool.
Someone should have told my A/C power outlet guy that, I don't think a single power outlet in my house has a ferrule in their connection, including power points spitting as much as 16 amps!
Tinned wire ends are not better then just the wire. The opposite is true, under pressure tin 'creeps' and so tinned wires may become loose if you connect them with those screw blocks.
Yup 100% this. Tinned wires are an absolute MASSIVE fire hazard.
yep
Tinned wires in screw terminals are worse than bare wire even tbh
Though a ferrule is the best solution
I’ve had those times at work. A super elegant design, then someone finds a fatal flaw with it. So hard to let things go when you fall in love with a design.
For sure, man.
Document design, type all advantages, disadvantages and put it in drawer. It can be handy in future and will help you to think out of the box :)
I feel like the quality of this review took a step up from previous reviews on the channel. A lot more concentrated with more information and more useful criticism of the product.
Agreed some previous "reviews" felt more like ads
4:25 A perfect depiction of me. Thank you Joel. 😊
Oh man no cold pulling?!? That’s easily the most used technique I use for clearing clogs.
Great suggestions on the 2 tubes/clips to hold the cables
I don't see an issue with cold pulling. Just pull it from the feeder. its how I do 99% of my cold pulls anyway.
@@nerys71 me too
@@nerys71 You could be torquing parts you really shouldn't if you're not careful though. I assume other people won't be as careful haha
@@GuardedDragon Its not that much force. not going to hurt anything.
of cause is cold pulling possible - i do this once a week
You used my IdeaMaker profile! Awesome!
If you want to do a cold pull, you just need to heat up the hotend to ~230c, turn off the printer then quickly remove the bowden connector from the hotend. You will be able to push some filament trough the nozzle before it cools down, and then a cold pull is possible.
This makes a lot of sense. 👍
For a cold pull, shove the filament in while nozzle hot, allow to cool, then heat the nozzle, pulling on the filament. You need the nozzle heating while you're pulling. Easy solution, a couple of plugs, with wiring, but no bowden tube. It's not rocket science.
Not exactly the ideal solution, but at least it's possible. Sucks that such a clean setup compromises repairability quite a lot with this thing.
@@blazewind Pretty designs have been negatively impacting repairability for as long as there has been a desire for pretty things.
Remember when it was easy to replace a hard drive or battery on a laptop? Not any more. You can still replace the battery by pulling a dozen screws, OR melting the glue holding it together with a heat gun; but as more and more manufacturers integrate SSD storage directly on the motherboard, you can't do much with a damaged boot device.
@@blazewind Not really. If your only problem is the hotend sometimes clogging, you can just dismantle it while its hot instead of cold pulling. There are ways to go around everything
Best review I’ve seen on this printer yet! Really sums it all up
They should make a debug adapter, that can be attached between the special cable and the hotend and let you connect elentronics but have an open tube for filament.
Yeah, exactly.
YES. That would be great. Or heck, modify this cable to do that. I dunno. I do like this solution.
hi, after 2 years, someone made it?
An older video, but I picked up my hornet for 200 on Amazon a few weeks ago(as opposed to like 170 on their site), and I absolutely love it. I even love the cable. Assembly was 7 screws (Seven!!), its super quiet, in a few dozen prints I've only had one issue that required me to disassemble like anything, and the belt tensioners are absolutely awesome. I am a sucker for aesthetics, and I love having a printer that looks professional, and doesn't look weird sitting on a shelf. Compared to an Ender 3 base model, I would pick the Hornet any day for the same price.
The only issue that I have had with it is the Cura profiles that shipped with it are a little rough. I used the "fast" profile to try to print it's calibration cube, but there was so much under extrusion it was practically foam. After some tinkering I got a significantly better profile figured out, and my cubes look even better than the ones shown here.
"It's really yellow" -coldplay likes it.
Hahaha made me laugh
Joel, i have asked Artillery about the very same thing, they told me you can access the hotend from the backside, there is an opening between the ptfe tubes. Could you please check that? :)
Simple you don't do a cold pull. Instead you do what we do even on our Ender's heat up the nozzle... unscrew the nozzle with a socket. and clean the nozzle out. Push filament our without a nozzle in the printer head followed by a which extra long retraction.this will clear up your hotend. For the nozzle use a small gas torch and a pair of pliers to hold the nozzle and do this way you cold pull. It is much more controlled and much faster too.
I love the analogy of not being able to start your car with the hood open.
I love how thorough you are being on your 3D printer reviews, digging into the electronics bay and noting the connections. I try to educate friends to make sure to check for tinned wires and replace with ferrule connectors. I'd be curious how the wiring to the bed looks, as many low cost printers have iffy connections there (or use wire that won't survive for long being continuously stretched ) High five!
I always thought bare wire was better than tinned, caveat: you must not have any stray strands if bare. They can cause shorts.
If the connection gets warm through loading or a poor tightening of the connection, the solder will soften. This will loosen the connection in turn causing more heating; rinse & repeat until combustion.
excellent review 👌😎 Mine is also on the way. Just an idea, I know it’s not easy but have you tried doing a cold pull through the bowden? I successfully did than on other printers.
And I agree with your proposals, especially the colored touchscreen.
I agree with Joel. See the thing about experience is that the more you have... the more you know. I've done cold pulls and hot pulls on bowdens and direct drives... never had a problem... until I had a problem. Filament got stuck in the bowden, had to eventually cut open the tube to see what went wrong and realized that it would never have gone through. Anyway I replaced the tube, back in business no biggie and no major expense. Now imagine you live in Alaska, or Zimbabwe or the Amazon. The hornet umbilical is a specialized part... in a critical failure prone area. Look at the stepper drive for comparison. - That is something that shouldn't fail frequently, and yet it was easy to source and replace. Nope if they want to ship with an umbilical, they should at least supply two spares with each unit. They have reduced their sales footprint by introducing a market spares barrier. REnault 5 - pull the engine to replace the spark plugs... facepalm.
Hi Joel, I can agree with you on the proprietary cable they used on this. Not great for clogs and cold pulls. About your "Ribbon cables, no one likes those..." comment, I've been printing with my Sidewinder X1 v4 with zero issues with those cables, or anything else, for a full year. I even bought a second Sidewinder X1 back in January. Is it user error, or older versions of the printer that have issues with those ribbon cables? I have yet to replace any of the parts that came in the spare parts bag. Still prints great a year later.
Great video again! Thanks Joel for mentioning the use of Ferules! It's plenty important.
Great video!
Also, what's happening with the speaker cover design competition?
Winners are announced in an episode coming out on the 25th
@@davidtobin Thank you!!
Hey Joel, great video as always! Just wanted to make a small correction when you were talking about ferrules. Tinned wires (although providing better strength than bare wire) can be a major safety hazard since the terminals can heat up due to the amount of current passing through it, and the tinning can soften and cause wire shifting or slipping that might cause sparking or fire. It's generally recommended to completely avoid tinning wires in terminals like that for safety reasons as some 3D printers have died or sparked for this reason.
I accidentally said things backwards and didn’t mean to. Thankfully you and other caught it. I’ll going to hopefully make a quick update video this week.
@@3DPrintingNerd No worries! Just wanted to point it out since better safe than sorry 👍
Hey man, great review, will my miniature profiles from cura that i've been using on the ender 3 work for this machine?
Interesting take!
I'd like to see this machine in direct drive, keeping the cool cable, but with the filament feeding in separately from the top.
The Fairy Tail noise is my notification noise as well. I couldn't believe it was actually in this video, I had to rewatch at 2:40 three times to make sure it wasn't me!
Me: 4 years Western Electric equipment installer, 30+ years electronics industry experience.
Ferrules.
They look great, they seem to fix a problem, but they are evil!
They were intended for low-power connections that are taken apart frequently...protects fine stranded wires from clamping forces.
Here they are being used in a high-power application with little need for frequent access.
***
Contact area and contact pressure are the King and Queen of high-power electrical connections.
Ferrules are a cylinder, the clamping-block has flat contacts.
This means there are only two narrow points of contact!
Bare copper stranded-wire has oodles of contact area and 'squishes' to conform to the contact surfaces.
Ferrules don't squish!
Cut off the ferrules, use the stranded wire in the connector blocks!
Tinned wire in a connector block?
Even worse...
Bright copper in firm contact with a tin-plated connector can have the same electrical properties as a soldered connection.
Ferrules have resistance that is easy to measure!
Resistance in high-power = heat, heat = failure.
Yes, working with stranded wire can be a hassle, but it can't be beat for passing power!
About time you got onto kiri:moto, I have been shouting about it for ages now. \0/
hornet + genius = hornius
That's really great info on proprietary cable, such maintenance issue never crossed my mind when looking at the Hornet.
Hey Joel, is there any chance you could make a followup video on the Obsidian Kickstarter?
Good review. Good channel. Sometimes a bit goofy but it's starting to grow on me. Cheers Joel.
Don't know when you got that new intro, but it's awesome!
you could do the cold pull while keeping the bowden tube still in, holding the extruder lever pressed
Also, good luck replacing at some point in the distant future [or perhaps even now, unless you're a reviewer] the custom combined filament feed and control line. Customer support and spare part availability aren't exactly Chinese hardware suppliers' strong points.
Guess the first thing you should print with this are spare parts 😂
3:05 Wait, What!?
Everything I've ever seen says that tinning the power wires is an awful idea that leads to shorts.
Yup - I had said it backwards. But you need ferrules :)
Not shorts, necessarily (AFAIK). But it _is_ a bad idea, yes.
The tin creeps/flows over time, gradually resulting in a loose connection. Loose connections have higher resistance and can arc, both of which cause heat which can make the tin flow faster, making it worse.
Heat can also lead to fire.
Plus, if the wire completely falls out of the terminal, it could contact another conductor, potentially (pun not intended) causing a short circuit - and more risk of fire!
And if it's the live/line/hot/etc. mains AC wire that's come loose, it could come to rest against nearby metalwork, causing the whole printer frame to possibly become live at 100-240V AC! Fun!
Terminals using strong springs (e.g. the popular Wago 221 and 222 terminals) can mitigate/reduce the risk, as they will keep applying enough force as the tin creeps.
But really, just use ferrules! 😁
Ferrules are cheap, quick and easy to apply, and give a nice, neat, professional result!
With the profile you downloaded, did you use prusa or cura slicer ? Or dosnt it matter with the profile ?
A third party product that plugs into the end to break out the wires and Bowden would be interesting to sell on etsy... Shouldn't be too hard to make and sell it fit a few bucks.
Just saying that there is a niche market there for someone that wants to... Why not, I've bought all kinds of crazy stuff for printers over the years, this would just be one more. 👍
These reviews are a major reason why I never miss an episode, thanks 👍👍💪💪👀👀
Thank you!
I really like this review format. Thankyou!
I recently got an Artillery Genius just before this came out, I've been enjoying thr hell out of it. One thing I noticed though is the ultra base type coating wasn't very durable for me and started changing color where I printed. Has anyone else has a similar issue with Artillery printers?
idea: troubleshooting cable that has a hole near the hotend for access for filament/cold pulls, but also has a connection to the controller. ezpz
could you achieve a cold-pull by heating it with cables attached, then turn off the 110VAC, unscrew the connectors and haul on the now exposed filament? The hot-end will float downwards in temperature once power is removed, but not that quickly.. right?
8 actually like the ribbon cables of the sidewinder. They made my life so much easier and they look great. I have the sidewinder for nearly 2 years and I still haven't changed one ribbon cable
Same here. I’ve heard a lot of people complain about the ribbon cables on the SX1/Genius, but I’ve never had any issues at all with them in the 1.5 years I’ve had my Sidewinder, and like you said, they look great
Same here. I like to say they can not have issues but I suspect it is people not inserting them properly and not keeping an eye on it...
I certainly like ~~ribbon~~ _flat-flex_ cables (FFCs) in theory!
("ribbon cable" generally refers to the style of cable used with old PATA/"IDE" hard drives/etc., I believe.)
I don't own a 3D printer using FFCs (eg the Sidewinder X1) so I don't know what the current implementations are like.
Are they using unsuitable connectors that don't provide enough retention force, maybe?
(And might different revisions of the Sidewinder X1 be using different FFC connectors? That could explain the polarised opinions!)
However _I love how the Sidewinder X1 looks_ with those FFCs, and I have long-term plans to switch to FFCs or ribbon cables on my modified Prusa i3 MK2-ish printer because it looks like either option would greatly improve the cable management (using custom marshalling PCBs).
I really dislike the Prusa i3's extruder/hotend cable routing. It's such a headache, when creating custom extruder mounts/X-carriage assemblies, to route the extruder cables without trapping them between the X-carriage and the printer's frame at the far top, left, or right extents of the print volume 😣
Using FFCs or ribbon cables up the frame, as seen on the Sidewinder, just looks a lot neater and easier to manage - as long as my PCB designs include spare lines for future expansion!
It should just require the use of suitable connectors for it to all work nicely. 2D printers have been using FFCs _for ever_ without issue, after all!
@@AndrewGillard Other brands like Type A and FlashForge use them on their machines and it seems to work. Like with anything you got to sometimes step out of the box and go from there. That said, lots of people have burnt XT-60 and "green screw terminals" through misuse so... no connecting system is perfect!
@@MakeItWithCalvin I think the key to not having connectors fail is in choosing an appropriate connector for the application (considering connector type, size, ratings, features, ...) *and then using it correctly*.
(Possibly also not buying cheap knock-off connectors, too, but that's very much a case of some being worse than others. I have plenty of cheap connectors from AliExpress that don't concern me at all, but I've also seen some that absolutely do! :))
e.g. screw terminals can overheat/melt/burn if overloaded or not tightened enough (or if people use tinned wires... _cough_ 👀). Check the datasheets of screw terminals at DigiKey/Mouser/etc. and you'll find that a lot of them actually specify a recommended screw tightening torque - typically 0.5 N·m (0.4~0.6 N·m) for the terminals I just checked out, all of which were around the 5.08mm pitch that's commonly used for 3D printer control boards.
And of course there were the XT60 connectors that Angus reported on being crimped rather than soldered. Fun! :)
You're exactly right. Any connector is susceptible to failing if it's abused!
Hey Joel! Just wanted to add to your comment on KiriMoto - If you use Onshape to design anything you can add a Kirimoto App directly into Onshape. It also works well for basic CNC Machining.
Excellent as usual. Big thanks Joel for this review. I totally agree with the genius and Hornet mix. Sound great.
Great video, but just one nitpick: solder on the wires in the terminals is actually worse than bare wire because if the wire heats up, the solder will melt and the wires can fall out.
Thanks for the honest review Joel. I kinda liked the idea of the all in one tube, but you have some good points about it. The idea about it is pretty good but it just doesn't work that well in practical speaking.
I think that’s it. It is a neat idea and would pass tests, but in real world use it just isn’t practical
What to buy ender 3 v2 or cr 10 mini?
My biggest concern with purchasing the Hornet is two fold. The Bowden tube cabling combo is ok in my opinion. The problem I have has to do with firstly all that plastic which reminds me of the Tarantula RS from Homers Tevo. The Y motor mounts in plastic which will crack and deform over time. Do not place that printer in a heated enclosure. Secondly there is maybe no way to add a BLTouch. I say maybe because I think I saw unused plugs in the hotend assembly. They don't sell a BLTouch kit for it though. With a BLTouch added to the hotend you need 13 pins total.
Hi, could you do a video on the Taulman 3D PA Cast plate nylon? It is their newest filament and It boasts a tensile strength of 13,000 PSI and was wondering if you could do a review. Thanks!
I wanna see your opinions and thoughts on the Voxelab Aquila. It's my first FDM printer and for about $170 I'm seriously happy with the prints.
I came to this conclusion when you unboxed it. The benefit of spectatorship, I didn't have to think about getting it up n running on cam. I could ponder trouble shooting while you fiddled with assembly.
There's an interesting lesson in engineering and product testing in there somewhere. Thanks for sharing, Joel!
They should make a set of cables to use in case of break down. Jumper cables for your 3d printer.
Yes but you can’t jump a car with the hood closed :D ;)
@@jim2386 I could, but I had a Cadillac with the battery under the back seat and a Jaguar with the battery in the trunk. Would not recommend either.
what are direct drive retraction settings? ive been using 5mm at 45mm/s a while now is it too much?
Yooo I love the new intro! 😍
If you put yourself into a position to need a cold pull, unscrew (do not disassemble) both connectors, heat to 230, shut off, hold filament tension lever and pull from the motor end, V1. V2: Take the hotend off the carriage (3 screws), leave connected as mentioned previously. Heat, slide bowden off filament and pull to your hearts content. Yes, you can do it- just dont stop for a bag of chips along the way. Figured that out a long time ago. Just spend more time actually thinking.
There can be a accessory that allow you to run the hotend leaving the nozzle free by connecting only the power and sensor wires.
Can you please go over the Mini/Baby Stay Puft model from Chaos Core Tech? Maybe make a full color print with the Palette 3?
They could keep the special cable that combines the wires and filament tube as long as they add external service port to connect the electronics of the hot end to the main board to be able to turn on the heater and thermistor and service the hot end in case of clogs and other things
Did they leave an option to add a BLTouch?
hi there. 2 years have passed when you made this amazing video. my question is did you work around or find a diy solution to fix the "best worst idea" for this build? liked and subscribed! many thanks in advanced!
I really like the wire management on the Hornet. However you make a killer point about the Bowden tube. It Kills any idea of me buying a Hornet. Sorry Artillery. Now I do have the Artillery Sidewinder X1. I like the wire management on that one as well. I do really like the ribbon cables. But I don't like the FFC connectors. They NEED locks on them. I had issues with the ribbon cable burning on the contacts for the hot end leads until I got some Molex FFC connectors with locks. I used a hot air rework solder station to remove the factory connectors and add the new ones. Ever since I did that on all the boards with the FFC connector I have not ever had another issue with the ribbon cables. I am in the process of designing my own boards now that will have a second 6 pin ribbon cable. It will run the same path as the factory ribbon. That will allow the use of the BLTouch with a very clean install and no need to use the RGB LED lines like some people do.
I have the printer. Unplug the cable, unscrew the hot end (three screws) then plug it back in... Or you can do what I do and leave the middle screw out and only use the two flanking screws meaning no need to unplug.
Is it super great? Depends. I much prefer it since, with two screws, I can hold the assembly and properly clean the hot end. But that might be a no go for you.
I found this to be much easier than my ender 3 given how much space is in that housing. This printer is a steal at 250 and I DO recommend it over the ender 3.
I wouldn’t want a printer I can’t get parts for let alone one with a part I can’t clean. Good call on not recommending it. Price is a bit high as well for the features.
So you don't want to be able to get parts or clean the parts? How does that make sense?
@@Graham_Wideman - can’t not can. Autocorrection error. I fixed it.
awesome review! thanks for the shout out!
You can manually set acceleration and jerk settings in Cura.
How easy can the whole hotend/cable can be replaced? Maybe it is good for someone who don’t want to troubleshoot all those things. Just replace the whole extruder and it’s done.
You should be able to fix your machine when it breaks. You know, instead of having to wait to have something shipped from the other side of the planet to you and wait.
@@davidtobin if waiting time is an issue, I would just hold a replacement on hand. Same like I do right now but with a lot less separate parts.
What's the patent on the cable actually for? I've made ones like it - and Jon from Proper Printing has a whole video series on his DSUB based modular connectors...
An alternative would be to have a troubleshooting cable extension which connects the extruder assembly to the default cable while giving access to the filament path.
its what i did, just bought 2 female gx16 8 pins and drill a hole on the center pint of one
Can you do a review of the Voxelab Aquila?
Can you do a review on the Anycubic Meza Zero 2.0?
Yea for Bryan Vines! Oh, and yea for Joel too. ;)
Could make, a patch cable just for cold pulling but having the bowden tube run along the cable but external would be nice but one would also loose the rigidity of the bowden tube
First, I love the way you presented this info. Very useful and a good insight on the new cable/tube. However, I will have to disagree with your comment about the ribbon cable design on their other machines. I really love the latest sidewinder and use it very regularly. I have had 0 issues with the cables and it makes it very sleek and presentable as a finished looking machine. Now i would agree that the ribbon cable is not good for people that do major machine modifications, but your comment "no one:" likes the ribbon cables is unjustified in my opinion. The original sidewinder might have had issues but the latest updates doesn't seem to have those issues. Again, thank you very much for this very good video.
Its a fair point when printing weird things, but in all my time printing with pla, petg, tpu and tpe, I have never experienced a clog. I've printed at least 5kg through the thing too.
3:05 If the wire moves regularly (say, it's connected to the build plate of a Prusa-style printer), tinning the end will shorten its lifespan because the wire will break inside the insulation where the solder wicked up. This is why it is _always_ a good idea to use a crimped ferrule in a screw terminal connector or even a spring-loaded one like a Wago.
GREAT info thank you!
“It’s really yellow. Text says “Coldplay likes it”. lol hilarious
Man, you are the most likable person on the planet. You're very good at your job as well
Awww thank you! You’re not so bad yourself.
@@3DPrintingNerd it's people like you who teach me and make me better at what I am doing so I can hopefully pay it forward. Thanks Joel
That's why I disable the machine settings in Prusaslicer (I use the more feature rich Superslicer fork). I've tuned my printer and don't want the slicer dictating accel/jerk/etc values for it. Also, if you run firmware other than Marlin, it'll likely throw errors anyway.
PrusaSlicer (and the original Slic3r) has an option to select the firmware your printer is running. If it's generating G-code that isn't compatible with the selected firmware, that sounds like a bug that should be reported...
I've never had PrusaSlicer create G-code that my Smoothieboard choked on, at least, and I do believe it's including acceleration settings in the G-code (for better or worse).
Unless you're using a firmware that isn't in that selection box?
@@AndrewGillard true, but if you don't verify that selection then odd things can happen.
Joel, tinned wires are worse than bare wires. Tin/lead will cold flow aka creep and the tension on the clamp is decrease overtime and eventually you'll end up with a loose wire dangling around in your control box
"coldplay likes it".. LOL!
You knocked the plug out and it blew a stepper driver? You should test that and make sure it was just a weak driver and not due to poor board design. That sounds strange and concerns me that users might blow a driver everytime they shut the machine off with the surge protector or experience a power outage
So wait, how did you unclogged it?
I heated up the hot end, then quickly unscrews the cable connector, and shoved a metal wire down to try and shove the clog into the zone where there is heat, hopefully freeing it.
Thanks for the review! Guess this printer works great for "out of box" printing with minor tuning and fixing except if you are into modding and furture upgrading.
1. hot glue components underneath (big headache when it comes to modding)
2. weird "all in one" proprietory cable (what a turnoff!)
3. glass bed is fine but not when hot glue to the metal plate (OMG! whoever think of this shit?). just use metal fasterners ..cheap and easy to remove.
They should include a "maintenance adapter". Disconnect the main tube and put the adapter in line. Itd leave the hot end open while maintaining the electrical connections
I remember when you could drop a quarter in the engine bay of a car and find it on the ground. Now a a thin dime would get lost in the first foot.
Username checks out
@@infernaldaedra truth hurts?
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP Nah not really it was meant to be a silly joke but you have an extremely valid point I had a old air cooled straight block engine and there wasn't much there but a starter, cooling fan and a couple hoses and wires. Was it easy to work on, hellyes.
But there wasn't really much comfort and it didn't have any of the tech that any newer vehicle would. I still think vehicles should be designed in a way where they are easy to maintain and on newer vehicles its a right PIA to remove 10 parts to replace something simple.
@@infernaldaedra eh, it's cool. Just woke up and brain wasn't working. 🤦🏼
You should never tin high current wires, solder (note the use of the letter L) gets soft at relatively low temps and a connection that's solid when it's cold can be loose when it heats up. High current wires tend to heat up.
Hey Joel! Great video, I'm just curious have you heard of the CR-10 Smart printer, and if so are you going to do a review of it?
I have heard of it. It’s currently at my house in my entryway :)
What you need is an adapter "cable" that is "open", so you can route the power but have an open slot to get to the end of the bowden for heating and cold pulls, etc. Don't thing that would be too hard to make - AND INCLUDE with the printer.
Hi! Je suis d'accord avec vous.
The Hornet + The Genius = The Murder Hornet
Love all the shoutouts!
Thank you!
Its not ideal but maybe you can make a jumper to power the extruder with the tube disconnected
I was waiting for your review, and you confirmed the flaw of the design in this printer
Had me rolling at the cold play reference!
I remember during the live stream wondering how the heck you could clear a blockage (hot or cold pull) with this setup. +10 points for yellow, -100 for not actually being a working design.
Read other people's informed comments.
@@michaels3003 If you say whats actually wrong with OPs comment then they wouldn't need to
This reminds me of my 93 Saturn SC2 with the problem I had where the windshield wipers wouldn't turn off, and it was 95 F out in southern Indiana, I had to drive over 80 miles to the Saturn dealership to get it fixed.
No problem, just pull the fuse for the windshield wipers, right? WRONG! It'd make sense if it were that simple. It's possible you could overload them and lose their functionality and still otherwise be able to drive the car, if they did things in a way that made sense. Nope!
I was beyond pissed to have taken out the fuse so wipers wouldn't be left on, just to discover that the same fuse is used for emissions controls, and the engine is designed to not run without the emissions controls system entirely running. Bless their stupid little hearts, they designed the car in such a manner that you couldn't possibly drive it if for some reason your windshield wiper system was inoperable and blew a fuse (which would happen in a short).
I was pissed to drive that distance, and it involved mostly highway speeds, with nothing I could do to keep the windshield wiper blades scraping back and forth across a hot, dry, perhaps a bit dirty windshield. Thankfully, that was the only incident I had with that car with wipers. Drove it over 207k miles, over more than 13 years.
This printer absolutely has a nice, clean, tidy outward appearance and appears to be designed with safety in mind, and normally work well.... but there are so many things that can and do go wrong in 3D printing, even if the machine is functioning as perfectly as possible, I completely agree and support your assertion that this is a major well-intentioned design flaw of epic proportions, advancing design to safer-but-stupid levels of creating helpless users. All great, until something goes wrong, or simply wears out (which would be hard to see, but it's a machine part with movement, so inevitable) and you're screwed.
At least the drivers are replaceable. Good feature!