GM Hydraulic brake booster leak repair
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- New important seals with booster
Kit-501 (2771004) Hydro-Boost Seal Repair Kit, UNIVERSAL SEAL REPAIR KIT- GM, FORD, MOPAR
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Thank you for this video, I put the round thing in the hole with out the plastic piece going in first and got it stuck, I wasn't sure how it reassembled until now. You saved me so much head ache and time! Thank you!
Dude... Your detail is top friggin notch
Well done! No blathering on. Excellent camera shots. You gave me a ton of confidence I'll get it right the first time.
The little yellow plastic thing was lost during disassembly.. life saver for your camera shots
Did it have a small ball bearing in it
You skipped half the seals
On my 93 Silverado 3/4 ton, I had a bad leak, so I tore it out, disassembled, and rebuilt with a generic (EBAY) rebuild gasket kit.
It leaked. Tore that out, and realized somewhere along the tear out, and rebuilding of the original, that the accumulator became loose. That means death to the unit, and you can’t rebuild it at home. And in my application, it’s a DISCONTINUED PART !
Went to Autozone and ordered a Duralast remanufactured unit. Installed it, and it leaked.
Tore that one out, brought it back to Autozone, and they ordered another one for me. Installed that one, and it leaked. I DID NOT RETURN THE SECOND UNIT FOR A REPLACEMENT. And this is my suggestion to anyone doing this rebuild. First and foremost, if the accumulator feels loose, or wobbles around and isn’t tight, your unit is toast, and you have to go with a rebuilt. Second, order a rebuilt unit from Autozone or your local parts store. Why ?
For the warranty, and it’s local. I’m so glad I went that route. As for the “rebuilt unit”, it probably came from A-1 Cardone if you got it from the parts store, and that basically means it’s pretty much just what you took out of your vehicle, garbage.
What did I do ? I tore out the second unit from Autozone that leaked, and disassembled as in this video.
Now listen carefully here…I did not use a GENERIC REBUILD KIT FROM EBAY
this time around !!!!
I found a genuine GM rebuild kit on EBAY (new/old stock) and ordered that.
Disassembled the unit and rebuilt it just as I did the original unit in the truck, and NO LEAKS !!
The aftermarket generic gaskets are a very big “hit and miss”. These are rubber sealing rings with a VERY SPECIFIC SHAPE to them. If the tolerances are off, by even a little bit, it’s going to leak. Good luck my friends !
Good evening, do you know how long the push rod is?
best video yet. thanks
How to change the small o rings on the pedal rod without cutting a pedal rod with a grinder??? Rod is pressed in and no way to disassemble that. That's where mine is leaking. Video did not show. My truck is RAM, nearly identical part. Anyone please?
Cool music! And thanks for sharing!
Great video !!!
Awww shoooot. I just put a $300 hydroboost in my 2018 ram that I could’ve rebuilt for $20 in seal. Stupid me
I did the same but with 150€ shipping from the usa and 20%... to received a baddely shipping one which is all damaged
2011 GMC Savanna 2500 4.8L looking for same kit couldn’t find one
what all yrs does that pretain too i have a 98 gmc 3500hd i got a new replacement part and it all ready has that in it so do i still take out my old one and put in the new part even it all ready has one,,,,im curious
The little plunger that sits on top of the little yellow cone looking thing mine does not look like that it has three little bitty holes do they face towards me and also whenever I broke my Hydro boost and have it had pressure and sprayed all over me
Nice work right on
I just rebuilt my hydrobooster. Now when I turn the wheel the breaks go down. Any ideas where to start?
I made sure two function valve is in the same way yours is.
My an original one was different than the one that came in the rebuild kit. The new one is just like yours.
1997 Dodge Ram 3500
Ok There is probably air in the brake master cylinder, the first air out of the nipples of the brake pipes and the air off line towards - > the brake cylinders of the axles.
What about the seals on the push rod? I watched another video and the guy cut off the eye. Pulled the rod out replaced the seals. Put the rod back through the housing and welded the eye back on. He said he did this because he couldn't figure out how to remove it. There were no obvious ways of removing it. So I have been searching for a proper way to replace the seals.
I didn't change the push rod seals there.
Great video! What are the torque specs for the hydroboost bolts?
As I recall, 15 Nm and a screw lock.
22 ft lbs i believe sir
Que puedo aser con mi camioneta se en frena sola al darle buelta al bolante trae hidrobooster es una chebrolet modelo 98 de tres toneladas
That's a special fault, it shouldn't be connected to that brake master cylinder, I'm guessing some kind of linkage problem, remove the shields from the front and examine the movements of the arms. In my Van, there was a problem with the brake hoses when the brakes were left on, the old brake hoses were swollen and the pressure remained in the work cylinder.
Buenas tardes,si fuera tan amable y pasar la reparación completa x favor
Donde esta la parte del vídeo donde cambias los sellos del eje del pedal....
I didn't change those gaskets, it didn't leak.
😂 media reparación! Falto la varilla del pedal.
Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. Power steering is making the whining noise. Pedal is hard not soft. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.
Operating pressure gets to the wrong place in the brake master cylinder if all brakes are stuck, usually old brake hoses do this, but only wheel-specific sticking.
@@latexihire yes the front brakes would stick completely and then I changed the front rubber brake hoses and now it’s slightly. So you think I should change the master cylinder?
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 If it still leaves the brakes on, I would think that the fault is in the hydro booster or the master cylinder?
@@latexihire I’m going to released the 2 bolts on the master cylinder to see if it releases the brakes. What if it does release the brakes do I just replace the master cylinder?
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 By loosening the outgoing brake pipes of the brake master cylinder, you can see if the pressure is on...
Could you show/explain/use a drawing of the proper dump valve assembly please. I'm doing a GM and not real sure of the proper reassembly mine fell out... (? Gasket, yellow plastic, pin and exterior end piece) not sure of the correct reassembly. I really would appreciate it sir, thank you
Unfortunately, no information about that configuration.
I got oil leak forminside of cabin and need to remove the pedal part how
In my own car Power Brake Booster Pedal holder clip -> www.joeldare.com/wiki/removing_the_power_brake_booster_pedal_clip
That’s the same process for a 1976 Cadillac Eldorado
شكرا ..
لكن
خصص فيديو
لكيفية فك الوصلة التي تربط بين دواسة الفرامل والبوستر الهيدروليكي... حتى يتسنى تركيب حلقات مطاط جديدة ، لمن التسريب.
Thanks ..
but
Dedicate a video
How to disassemble the connection between the brake pedal and the hydraulic booster... so that new rubber rings can be installed, to avoid leakage.
These seals did not need to be replaced on my brake booster
Can you advise?
I am rebiilding a school bus witha chevy p30 chassis and the first thing you see when i ooen the hood is the hydroboost and master cylinder on the firewall- so i want to chrome the whole thing.
The chrome shop wants onlu the external housings that need to be chromed. The whole proces will take months with back time.and shipping so the bus needs all new components anyway id buy a remanufactured boost and master and disassemble it myself and send the parts out and reasemble the chrome housing when it gets back chromed.
Heres the question, how do i remove the pressure canister or does that even need to be removed ?
Does it hold pressure? Is it under pressue like a nitrogen ball from a bmw brake system or is theee nothing in that canister and it should be chromed as one piece with the housing?
Thats my question.
Hello There is no information about disassembling the pressure tank of the brake booster.
informes vende repuestos
Do you have a link for the parts kit you bought?
I have used this kit -> www.ebay.com/itm/143767565106?itmmeta=01HR6TS61KV0N13D64VDYV26Q4&hash=item217936f332:g:PmAAAOSwSP9bWiAz
Is the pressure cylinder available?
No information...
What is the torque or the housing ?
Tightening approx. 25 Nm + Thread locking glue.
@@latexihire thanks
I see that there are kits by different brands. Which one is good?
I use universal seal repair kit-gm, ford, mopar
What kind of fluid do you put back in it? I filled mine up with power steering fluid. Is this correct?
Yes, Power steering fluid.
@@latexihire thanks!
Where did you purchase kit from?
Ebay...
will this kit work for a 2009 chevrolet silverado 2500hd?
No information on compatibility.
the seals aren't the right size for most of them unfortunately. I recommend getting in touch with a professional parts source.
I got cheap ones from amazon and they worked well.
Is this a staked rod unit?
No information.
Where do you buy the gaskets set
Ebay 👍
I have one problem you can only get seals by themselves online auto shops won't sell seals and mechanics upcharge way to much I can not order online and I don't have friends that'll let me use their addy to pick up parts I'm about to use my jobs address since they want to make life difficult for no reason
Amazon
Where can I get this kit
I ordered on ebay...
I have watched several of these videos and no one changes the pedal rod seals. Is there a trick to these?
I only changed the important seals of the brake booster, not the seals of the pedal bar.
@@latexihire Mine is leaking.
I've replaced 3 on my 13 duramax and every one has leaked into cab and one through weep hole on bottom of booster. Get a squishy pedal feel and squealy brakes
You have to cut the eyelid off and after replacing the seals weld the eyelid back on ,or cut some threads on both sides and use a coupler nut to get it together for use in the truck
Sir good pm order sana ako nang kit.ford550 2013 model
I have no information
Where did you get parts at
I ordered on ebay.
What about leaks on the outer cylindrical tube?
No information about that leak.
You sure it’s not leaking down from This spot ? It’s what mine is doing now
The diagram shows a ball bearing between the two components of the accumulator valve (the yellow piece and the piece with the pin in it), yet your unit had NO such ball bearing. Further, video czcams.com/video/TiSS2F5oQU0/video.html blames the failure of his unit on the omission of the ball bearing. Do you know what the story is with the ball bearing?
No information about that ball bearing.
Como eu faço pra comprar esse kit de reparos, você vende ??
For example ebay.
@@latexihire podrías pasarme un línk de Ebay para poder comprarlo? Saludos de Uruguay
Año 1972
would you guys rebuild a booster if yes how much
and a price and a email
This is a garage hobby, not a professional repair.
what was the size of the first seal you pulled out?
No memory, thats seal...
@@latexihire ?
what all yrs does that pretain too i have a 98 gmc 3500hd i got a new replacement part and it all ready has that in it so do i still take out my old one and put in the new part even it all ready has one,,,,im curious
They are supposedly universal.