A Different EV Charging Option: MAXOAK
Vložit
- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
- Electric Pro Academy - Real skills to make real money.
EPro Masters Beta:
Take your electrical trades business to the next level with EPro Masters, designed to help electrical business owners build & scale faster through virtual coaching & collaboration. Click here to schedule an interview call: exciting-producer-5962.ck.pag...
EPRO-2-Call:
We’ve all been there: You’ve got the tools and the willingness to solve your own electrical problem, but are held up by a couple ominous details. Rather than hiring out the whole project, get 1-on-1 time with an EPro master electrician on a video or voice call here: electric-pro-academy.square.s...
Products We’d Recommend:
*EPRO endorses pro-level tools & materials, and receives a small commission for purchases through our links from Amazon & other affiliate programs. We’d be happy to recommend more cost-effective products for DIYers and low-frequency users if you engage with us in the comment section!
[] EPRO’s Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com/shop/electricp...
[] MAXOAK EV Charger: link：maxoak.net/discount/MAXOAK40?... (Discount code：MAXOAK40)
[] InfiRay P2 Pro Thermal Camera: www.xinfrared.com/products/in...
2020 National Electrical Code (NEC) referenced in our videos:
Free Access Here: link.nfpa.org/free-access/pub...
[] 125% Rule for Continuous Loads [NEC 240.4(B)]
Synopsis:
We can’t keep up with all these EV chargers! As the EV market continues to grow, so does the accessory market, and we’ve got a lot of EV chargers requesting to be on the channel. As a service to our viewers, we’ve begun a series dedicated to EV charger installation and review. Up today: MAXOAK!
Pros: Flexible charging cable, RFID card-compatible, hardwire whip included, wire hanger included, and visibly sleek.
Cons: Clunky charging initiation on our Tesla Model 3.
If you’re looking for a low-tech, small-footprint charger, this one might work for you.
Laced within the technical instruction are recommendations and points of professionalism employed daily by Jefferson Electric masters, journeymen, & apprentices.
If the instruction in this video is unclear or not quite what you’re searching for, feel free to comment below for additional assistance.
Outline:
0:00 - Introduction
0:31 - Supporting Small Business
1:22 - Unboxing
2:40 - Modding & Mounting
6:43 - Wire Terminations
7:31 - Energizing & Testing
11:34 - InfiRay P2 Pro Thermal Camera
15:59 - Conclusion
Connect With Us:
Electric Pro Academy is a multimedia team dedicated to training and instructing DIYers and professional electricians for the growth and dignity of the craft nationwide.
/ electricproacademy
/ electricproacademy
odysee.com/@ElectricPro
Jefferson Electric installs and services residential, commercial, solar, and Tesla systems in Indianapolis, IN.
www.jeffersonelectricllc.com/
/ jeffersonelectric
/ jefferson-electric-llc
Got a question or ideas for a future video? Leave a comment below and submit your idea here: forms.clickup.com/f/23xa9-70/...
Thank you for watching; we value your feedback and monitor this channel daily.
I wholeheartedly agree with IR scanning. I worked as an Industrial Electrician for 45 years. IR scans and torquing and re-torquing all connections were a very important part of reduced downtime.
I like the IR scanner, thanks for sharing about it. I didn't like the wonkiness of the charger not working right away with the app. I have some WIFI switches that are like that too. One update or change in router and you have to really work to get it all back to normal working ops.
Agree with both comments! The thermal cam is fantastic: Portable, simple, & effective. The charger left us with a few too many uncertainties...
About time Joel came back💯
Nice job Joel and nice product...Thx
Tesla has their own level 2 charger that can be set up for charging. It can even be activated with their app. Apartment complexes and such can get set up. It’s on their site if you look and works for a multitude of EV’s I believe.
I have an electricians question: I have an old house built in 1972 that has AL wiring.
My dryer went out. (I was hoping it would go out eventually due to a loud annoying noise it made.)
We checked to see if the 30 amp double pole circuit breaker tripped, but it didn't. So we assumed the dryer was dead. So we got rid of it and bought a new one, plugged it in and realized that it was the receptacle that went out. (or so we thought)
Then I got a very light shock on my arm after I plugged in the new dryer. I did a voltage test on the dryer terminals to see what was happening, on the left terminal. I was getting unusual readings.
I check both hot legs in the receptacle and got 240, then checked each one of the hot legs and was getting 120 on each. I assumed that the receptacle was bleeding power into the neutral, and replaced the receptacle.
For 3 wire connections you have to keep on the neutral strap so it's used as a ground right? for 4 wire connections, you remove the neutral strap and put it back on the neutral, and then bond the 4 wire ground terminal to where the neutral strap was right?
I think the left terminal was reading like 50 volts, and somehow power was going through the ground/neutral and causing it to electrify the dryer, and when I would touch my arm against the metal laundry room doors, id get a very very light shock. (barely noticable.)
I inspected the receptacle, it was as old as the house was, with 2 8AWG shielded AL hots, and a solid, bare 6 AWG ground/neutral, then I replaced it.
On a 240v Circuit when both of the hots are coming together to form 240v that is part of completing the circuit, so long as each leg is on a different phase right?
Is that how that works? I was very confused when I saw this configuration. I am used to my usual 4 wire receptacles, I know very little about how 3 wire HV circuits work and I am trying to figure it out.
So I bought a new 3 wire HV receptacle, I had to remove the old metal box, and installed a new maximum depth 2 gang box, cut the wires back due to seeing some oxidation on the AL wires (which had no antiox on them at all). I was having trouble cutting through the wire due to the weird old metal shielding, so I had to cut that back as well.
There were multistrands, and I had to cut back again, because on one of the wires, I cut one of the strands, so I had to cut back to where I cut off the strand.
I used an old toothbrush to lightly brush on a light coating of antiox on the freshly cut AL conductors, and a light coating of antiox in the receptacle, and carefully wiggled the AL stranded wiring in, and tighted, and re tightened to proper torque specs using torque screwdriver, put in the 6AWG bare ground/neutral, connected the 3 wire dryer and AGAIN it electrified the case of my dryer.
So I tested each leg together and got 120V, when I tested the 1st leg to ground I got 56volts, then I tested the 2nd leg to ground and got something like 78 volts, so what happened? Did something happen to my neutral wire at the panel? I don't know where to find it.
What should I do? Can someone explain to me what these readings are, and why my dryer still wants to shock me?
I went ahead and bought some 6/3, 8/3 AWG and 10/3 AWG wire for the repairs. (plus possible expansion of my HV system) I am going to put in a 4 wire, and leave in the new 3 wire, but include a dedicated ground for the 3 wire so it has the safety features of a 4wire, this way the new home owner can use 3 wire and 4 wire plugs if they ever need to. (if I ever sell)
I was going to build a junction box and WAGO up some splices for both 240v receptacles, but I would really like to know what happened and how to trace back this bare 6AWG ground to see if maybe it got disconnected from the circuit breaker box.
When I did some work under my sink, I noticed there was a bonding strap to my copper waterline in the kitchen, with a corroded possibly copper wire bonded to it, I wonder if they were using the plumbing system to ground the dryer?
The reason I say this is because I recently did a re-pipe in my house and right after is when my dryer went out and stopped working. I replaced the old 3/4 copper branches with 1 inch Pex B and wonder if that might of interfered with anything.
Wow! I appreciate your thoughtful approach to the problem and your effort to communicate it effectively. Thank you!! To respond in a manner that unfortunately doesn't sufficiently acknowledge your contribution and communication let me say briefly, it does seem that the metal water system was functioning as a supplemental neutral conductor and there's a high resistance connection in your distribution system, such as in your main panel, meter cabinet, disconnect or even in the utility portion of the distribution system. The utility company will typically investigate a customer complaint free of charge in most areas and may be able to resolve this for you. If not, a licensed electrician is your best bet. If indeed the issue is found in your distribution system you could encounter other similar circumstances such as a getting shocked off your hose bibs, shower or faucet handles, cast iron sinks... I recommend resolving quickly. If the issue worsens the level of pain and risk associated with the nuisance shocks could elevate!
I hope I understood your circumstances correctly and this response is of assistance!
@@ElectricProAcademy Thank you for the response.
I recently found out what the problem was. I traced the bare ground and instead of going back to the panel it was bonded to the copper pipe under my house, that was still hanging there. (I recently converted to Pex.)
I experienced a situation where the absence of a proper ground connection led to an unsafe condition. I am still not sure why the dryer was slightly shocking me. (was a very light shock, barely noticable.)
In a 3-wire dryer connection, the neutral wire also serves as the ground, but when my plumbing system changed to Pex pipes, I lost continuity in the grounding path.
While it might seem counterintuitive, the neutral wire in a 3-wire connection is crucial for safety.
Even though the two phases cancel each other out in terms of current flow, the neutral still provides a path for fault currents to return safely to the source.
In the absence of a proper ground, the neutral can end up carrying fault currents, posing a risk of electric shock.
When I restored the bonding jumpers to the grounded water pipe, I reestablished a proper grounding path, which resolved the issue.
It's important to note that the National Electrical Code (NEC) now requires a 4-wire configuration for dryer connections, which includes a separate ground wire. This enhances safety by eliminating reliance on the neutral for grounding.
In summary, the neutral in a 3-wire connection is used for both current-carrying and grounding purposes I learned.
At some point I will be upgrading to a 4 prong soon for safety. I think I'll also go ahead and leave the new 3-prong there, but include a dedicated ground with it so it can function safely as a 4-prong.
Thanks for the advice I will check for this high resistance connection in my distribution system you mentioned and see if this is an issue, thanks a lot!
Individuals like to cut out the copper or galvanized piping to repair or add anything. I always tell them to put the copper system back like you found it. They either don’t understand proper grounding or don’t care to. If this dwelling is really old which it sounds as it is. If you want a proper grounding system you would need a service upgrade done with ground rods with new 4 wire going to dryer ,range circuit. Also as stated consult a licensed electrical contractor.
Are your techs paid commission or hourly?
I got a chargeverter for my solar system 30 amp plug. Why cant I turn my water heater wiring into a receptacle and put a plug on it? Then I could use it for both. I think code prevents it but how is it different than a EV charger outlet? Thks
Nice work. What camera are you using to record?
Sony FX 3
Expansion joint?
The corner of that carriage house has become the american version of jordan's swiss cheese wall
😂 True 😐.
Well that change didn’t take long
Man You need more tight gloves..👍.Pick up a smaller size number..Watching your vid with pleasure...🌟
The Tesla Wall Connector is better
Agreed.
What size wire is used on that charging cord?
Yes but the Tesla charger doesn’t sink with most power companies to get discount service!
Still love my ChargePoint!
@@fuzion430journey3 that is 100% false. The electrical service is what determines the rate, not the wall charger itself. The Tesla charger would certainly be just fine
Product seems cheap and flaky IMO.
Yeah, not the top of our value list. Tesla Wall Connector still holds the #1 spot for us.
great video-but chinese crap installed
Lightweight because its cheap.
Looks underwhelming, and not sturdy
Yeah, not the top of our value list. Tesla Wall Connector still holds the #1 spot for us.