At 7:25 in the video,. You dropped bolts into the brace to hold it so you can drill the rest of the holes. I don't know if you forgot to mention? Or this is just my own idea. After you put the bolts in I put the nuts on underneath to hold the brace firm against the box as I'm drilling. I found if I did not do this the brace flopped around a little bit as I was drilling the rest of the holes.. other than that one small suggestion I find a video comprehensive and informative. By the way the construction of the bars and boxes is excellent, a good value
Didn't have to splice in the left rear blinker, just enough slack to attach without being taut. Also good note of mention you DO have to remove the rubber grommet and metal sleeves for the old blinkers to install the nut plate. (I was getting frustrated. If you run aftermarket exhaust, or maybe its just the FMF q4 I have, a bunjee cord for the release wire would be ideal.
I have a 2011. Torque specs: Rear footpeg bolt: 18ft/lb, upper rear frame: 33ft/lb. I used blue loctite. I had issues with the left side rack lining up with the bolts, I was able to finally jimmy the footpeg bolt in but it was not pretty(probably stripped the threads). I also had issues with the blinker extender. On my 2011 the rubber "grommet" stuff was a solid piece. I could not easily remove it. I didn't want to cut it out in case I ever wanted to put it back the way it was. This rubber stuff made the supplied bolts not long enough. I ended up going out and getting ones(4) that were M6X40mm (1cm longer) and this worked fine.
Just put these racks on a 2016 KLR650. Couple things that should be ADDED to their instructions: 1- They don't say WHY you're moving the turnsignals. (the boxes will hit them) 2-You must pull the TS wires BACK first before installing the rack. I had to remove everything cuz TS wires wouldn't reach. 3- Instrux don't show how extension plate goes on. 4- Parts should be labelled. i had no idea what a back plate .,flat bar was. 5- Mistake in Line 12- bolts size is 30mm not 25mm as shown. 6- missing steps 19-22 install subfender,seat, r panel 7- They don't tell you you can't get the left sidecover off on CA models unless you remove the emissions cannister FIRST. Some guys take all that junk off anyway. Also just put on the TUSK crashbars and subframe bolt kit from Eagle Mike (do them at the SAME time!) and like the fit and looks of them. You could spend more but why? Other than that, GREAT product, already dropped it today and no damage. Dropped it last week and cracked the $300? right front plastic panel! Now i have a place to mount hiway pegs and driving lights. kEN C CEO Operation Dirtbike Freedom
It's obvious that the installer doesn't know how to use electrical tape properly. Water will get in and stay there thus causing corrosion and the blinker connection failure in a year or so. Seal the connection properly or don't seal it at all. He should have used heat-shrink tubing with glue to seal the spliced connections.
wonder how many racks they went through looking for a set with halfass decent welding. Mine were shitty, had to grind on them to get the TS extensions to seat properly.
The instructions state to reuse the turn signal bolts and nuts from the original parts. They are WAY too long since it looks like you don't use the rubber blocks when installing the turn signals on the steel extensions. Any suggestions?? The bolts shown in the video are NOT the stock signal mounting bolts. The stock bolts have a round allen head, not a hex head.
Yes these racks will fit your 2013 KLR and yes the installation should be exactly the same as what is shown in the video. You can find more information on our website if you put in your bike and look up the Tusk Aluminum Pannier Boxes with Racks. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1033/-/976053/Tusk-Aluminum-Pannier-Boxes-with-Pannier-Racks-Black?v=6932 If you have any other questions let me know. Wes@RMATV
Can I use soft pannier bags with these racks. I would also like to mount a rotopax water container to the right side would there be a problem with exhaust heat in doing that
My right side rack fit my 2014 klr perfectly but the left rack does not quite line up with the stock turn signal location and misses the front bolt location by almost an inch. Could I have been sent the wrong rack?
I had the *exact* same issue on my 2017 KLR. right side rack fits perfectly, but left side rack is off by a distance no amount of bending or torquing can align. these racks cannot be installed. at request of RMATVMC, i emailed their warranty department photos and videos of how and where it was not fitting. but it took a phone call a week later to get any word or update on my issue. their solution (which i am eager to try) is to send another set of racks; maybe i got sent the wrong left rack. problem is: they're back ordered and will be another 4+ weeks before i can expect to receive it. fingers crossed this new left side rack will be the meanwhile, i have to stare at these lonely pannier boxes still sitting uninstalled. without 100% certainty regarding the racks, i cannot/will not drill the mounting holes. sad trombone.
My side panel doesn't fit like it should - Also the back crossbar is against the license plate light - Am I doing something wrong or is this just nature of the beast?
First thing I did was the thermal Bob install, which first is remove the seat and the gas tank. Then I replace the doohickey, check the videos to see how that goes. Now I'm installing these boxes, and after the two previous jobs I just did . to me it does seem easy. 🤪
@Chuck Gillespie You called it. A little fanagling can go a long way. We like to a mount them up loosely and then go back through and button all the nuts and bolts up later, once we have everything mocked up and aligned.
"Go ahead and tighten everything up. Oh... and by the way, if things don't fit disassemble and use our washers... reasemble and test." Really guys? What a freaking joke!?
You dont need that much wire for the extension. This product is about as garbage as chinesium gets throw the factory bolts out also the reason they dont want you to tighten everything up individually is it wont fit. Fit and finish is beyond sub par super disappointing
At 7:25 in the video,. You dropped bolts into the brace to hold it so you can drill the rest of the holes. I don't know if you forgot to mention? Or this is just my own idea. After you put the bolts in I put the nuts on underneath to hold the brace firm against the box as I'm drilling. I found if I did not do this the brace flopped around a little bit as I was drilling the rest of the holes.. other than that one small suggestion I find a video comprehensive and informative.
By the way the construction of the bars and boxes is excellent, a good value
Didn't have to splice in the left rear blinker, just enough slack to attach without being taut. Also good note of mention you DO have to remove the rubber grommet and metal sleeves for the old blinkers to install the nut plate. (I was getting frustrated. If you run aftermarket exhaust, or maybe its just the FMF q4 I have, a bunjee cord for the release wire would be ideal.
Wish they made a plug and play set of panniers.
I have a 2011. Torque specs: Rear footpeg bolt: 18ft/lb, upper rear frame: 33ft/lb. I used blue loctite. I had issues with the left side rack lining up with the bolts, I was able to finally jimmy the footpeg bolt in but it was not pretty(probably stripped the threads). I also had issues with the blinker extender. On my 2011 the rubber "grommet" stuff was a solid piece. I could not easily remove it. I didn't want to cut it out in case I ever wanted to put it back the way it was. This rubber stuff made the supplied bolts not long enough. I ended up going out and getting ones(4) that were M6X40mm (1cm longer) and this worked fine.
Just put these racks on a 2016 KLR650. Couple things that should be ADDED to their instructions:
1- They don't say WHY you're moving the turnsignals. (the boxes will hit them)
2-You must pull the TS wires BACK first before installing the rack. I had to remove everything cuz
TS wires wouldn't reach.
3- Instrux don't show how extension plate goes on.
4- Parts should be labelled. i had no idea what a back plate .,flat bar was.
5- Mistake in Line 12- bolts size is 30mm not 25mm as shown.
6- missing steps 19-22 install subfender,seat, r panel
7- They don't tell you you can't get the left sidecover off on CA models
unless you remove the emissions cannister FIRST. Some guys take all that junk off anyway.
Also just put on the TUSK crashbars and subframe bolt kit from Eagle Mike (do them at the SAME time!) and
like the fit and looks of them. You could spend more but why?
Other than that, GREAT product, already dropped it today and no damage. Dropped it last week and cracked the $300? right front plastic panel! Now i have a place to mount hiway pegs and driving lights.
kEN C
CEO Operation Dirtbike Freedom
Also noticed that the back brace hits the tail light.
That it does kinda obstruct the license plate light, but eh oh well
It's obvious that the installer doesn't know how to use electrical tape properly. Water will get in and stay there thus causing corrosion and the blinker connection failure in a year or so. Seal the connection properly or don't seal it at all. He should have used heat-shrink tubing with glue to seal the spliced connections.
A certified hammer mechanic! I am surprised they used sockets and not channel locks and vice grips.
How do you get the seat back off if the left side cover is not designed to come off?
Must you remove the rack?
Not sure about others but both my side covers come off pretty easily with the racks in place so i have never had to take the racks off.
@Shabbernigdo Xingjian 100% agree. Sounded like in the instructions they cautioned they might not.
I think I'll be taking mine to the shop to do. Looks scary for the novice
Same here, too much precision needed for someone who has never had to do maintenance themselves haha
I'm a novice and I'm going for it. Took everything apart tonight and will begin assembly Thursday
wonder how many racks they went through looking for a set with halfass decent welding. Mine were shitty, had to grind on them to get the TS extensions to seat properly.
As of today March 29th 2022. I can say the fit and finish of the racks and the boxes in the kit I got, was excellent.
The instructions state to reuse the turn signal bolts and nuts from the original parts. They are WAY too long since it looks like you don't use the rubber blocks when installing the turn signals on the steel extensions. Any suggestions?? The bolts shown in the video are NOT the stock signal mounting bolts. The stock bolts have a round allen head, not a hex head.
Do these racks work with the 2013 model and is the installation identical as shown here?
Yes these racks will fit your 2013 KLR and yes the installation should be exactly the same as what is shown in the video. You can find more information on our website if you put in your bike and look up the Tusk Aluminum Pannier Boxes with Racks. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1033/-/976053/Tusk-Aluminum-Pannier-Boxes-with-Pannier-Racks-Black?v=6932 If you have any other questions let me know. Wes@RMATV
Can I use soft pannier bags with these racks. I would also like to mount a rotopax water container to the right side would there be a problem with exhaust heat in doing that
Yes
at 0:54 what is the flat bar with three holes ( just above the turn signal extension bars) used for? Never mentioned in video.
It's the brace that goes inside the pannier. & it is seen in the video being installed.
My right side rack fit my 2014 klr perfectly but the left rack does not quite line up with the stock turn signal location and misses the front bolt location by almost an inch. Could I have been sent the wrong rack?
I had the *exact* same issue on my 2017 KLR. right side rack fits perfectly, but left side rack is off by a distance no amount of bending or torquing can align. these racks cannot be installed.
at request of RMATVMC, i emailed their warranty department photos and videos of how and where it was not fitting. but it took a phone call a week later to get any word or update on my issue. their solution (which i am eager to try) is to send another set of racks; maybe i got sent the wrong left rack. problem is: they're back ordered and will be another 4+ weeks before i can expect to receive it. fingers crossed this new left side rack will be the
meanwhile, i have to stare at these lonely pannier boxes still sitting uninstalled. without 100% certainty regarding the racks, i cannot/will not drill the mounting holes. sad trombone.
My side panel doesn't fit like it should - Also the back crossbar is against the license plate light - Am I doing something wrong or is this just nature of the beast?
Mine is hitting too. Poor design.
Me three. Cant even get the bolt back in, the support bar is in the way.
Are these the large or medium panniers?
Can you still ride 2 up with this?
dudes like "this is gonna be easy"
i dont think I could come up with a more complicated install process than this.
First thing I did was the thermal Bob install, which first is remove the seat and the gas tank.
Then I replace the doohickey, check the videos to see how that goes.
Now I'm installing these boxes, and after the two previous jobs I just did . to me it does seem easy. 🤪
I can't get my side panel back on. the rack is in the way
Finally got mine back on after some fanagling- still sits funny compared to the other side - good luck man
@Chuck Gillespie You called it. A little fanagling can go a long way. We like to a mount them up loosely and then go back through and button all the nuts and bolts up later, once we have everything mocked up and aligned.
+Rocky Mountain ATV MC I got it about 30 minutes after my original comment. thanks for the response though!
JOSH3SiX Good Job! Time to hit the slab and dirt :)
Is this the CA model? I couldn't get the left sidecover on until i reached in and removed the emissions cannister first.
"Go ahead and tighten everything up. Oh... and by the way, if things don't fit disassemble and use our washers... reasemble and test." Really guys? What a freaking joke!?
You dont need that much wire for the extension. This product is about as garbage as chinesium gets throw the factory bolts out also the reason they dont want you to tighten everything up individually is it wont fit. Fit and finish is beyond sub par super disappointing
😀👍🙏✝
Not going to lie, a little annoyed that a drill is needed for this installation, not exactly part of my standard tool repitore
You're kidding. Right? 🤣