I love your videos man. Every time I am looking to upgrade something on my KLR I swear you've already done it, and have a nice lengthy video discussing the benefits, procedures, and theory behind it all. It's like a youtube safety blanket whenever I'm in doubt of how to do something or if I should bother in the first place.
When fitting the caps back or any other "screws" like that (sensitive ones), first, by hand, rotate them counterclockwise (the loosen direction) and they will "clanc" into the right position and then you can be sure you won't damage the guidance.
I really appreciate your video. Not only do you speak clearly, and cover the complete process, but you take time to explain minute details of the work being done. The position of camera is great. The video is clear, and there's no background noise to distract. These things set your videos far apart from other videos I've watched. Many thanks! Loren
+Tim2Wheels I got the inexpensive ones on ebay from China. Pretty good quality for what they are. I simply cut down the spacer 1/2" from what PS calls for since the OE cap and the new cap hit the spacer in a 1/2" difference when the new cap is set in it's middle adjustment position. From that middle position I decrease the preload about a quarter-turn and it felt perfect for me. I'm 210lbs with an Eibach 400# spring.
Thank you, excellent video! On my old gen 1s there is the shraider air valve so I left out the valse cores to allow free air flow in and out to eliminate the progressive spring effect of the air pressure biuld up letting the new springs to do that. It works way better ,much more free flowing and the fork seals don't leak anymore. The funky part is I needed a way to keep the oil from slashing out so I added clear fuel lines up and around the mirror stems stopping the vibration and cleared up the review. But you must use colour coordinated zip ties ! Now ,I love watching the GSers and KTMers when give her the old stink eye . Catch up to yuh later camera head , lol.
Love your vids. They are my go to. Did the 465 RAP rear & the Progressive Front fork up grade. Now getting front end wobble at 60+ Mph. Thinking probability my head bearings out of adjustment due to the improved spring tension. Would love to see a vid on head bearing adjustment. Keep up the good work, thanks again.
Hey Tim, I love your channel! Thanks for the very detailed videos, I actually enjoy the rambling, if you dont like it then skip past it! I have a question for you on your spring kit as I am going to be installing mine tomorrow: How is the PVC piping holding up over time? Cheers, you deserve more subs!
Hey, thanks for the comment. So far the PVC has been holding up. As expected, the team at Progressive must have tested it before providing it with the springs. Best of luck with your upgrade. It is worth the effort.
Tim2Wheels I noticed you have an aftermarket rear spring, is it the full suspension or just the upgraded coil? I bought the 465 suspension package from KLR650.com and am going to do it tomorrow as well! Fortunately I'm somewhat mechanically inclined so I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing and a tutorial for tomorrow isn't required! ;) However I feel many noobs out there would be done well by having your detailed analysis and past tense tutorial on how to do it. Once again keep up the high quality videos, you and Everride are the reason I bought the Tusk panniers! Cheers!
Couldn't you add preload by adding additional spacers above the springs? That way it could be changed if you desired later by adding or removing a spacer.
I think T2W are some of the best KLR videos out there. In one of your videos you said you used to own/ drive big trucks. What type of freight did you haul & what part of the county did you operate. Im also a truck driver-dry van. Mid west -west coast weekly.
+Steve Smitherman We hauled heavy equipment all over US. It was a family business, but I've been away from driving for several years now. Stay safe out there! Thanks for watching.
This is what I do to not cross thread the caps... Either push down on the cap with your fingers or socket with extension (depends on preload) and turn the cap as if loosening. When the thread is ready for engagement you will feel the cap pop down just the width of the thread. This is when the start of the threading of the cap passes the beginning of the threads in the fork. These are fine threads so you may need to do it several times to find it. As soon as you feel the drop begin twisting the opposite direction to begin tightening. Of course make sure you are pushing the cap straight down.
Bill Carpenter - Very good advice Bill. I also learned that loosening the upper fork clamps make the job easier too. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Great video Tim! I have these in my bike and I love them. Keep the videos coming, though at some point you are going to run out of upgrades to do to your bike. May I suggest a Eagle Mike 705 kit?
Good point. I keep telling my wife I need another bike to work on! :) I have considered the EM 705 kit, but this motor runs so well, I hesitate to mess with it.
Love your detail and breaking it down for the average Jo's like myself! Side question, what handguards do you have installed? I purchased some from Tusk but they don't work well without major modifications. Bark Busters seem to be a more popular option and appears that's what you have?
your video says to put the tighter windings on the top, the last video i just watched said to put them at the bottom. Does it actually make a difference as long as both are in the same way?
T2w! Happy tday. Was up all night watching klr vids on suspension including yours, and was wondering if you had any thoughts on the progressive cartridge kit vs the cogent spring and damper kit. Was considering the emig kx fork swap but now I’m thinking I can get the Moab shock and either fork kit and have a complete susp job. I’m hoping with spacers and heavier fluid I can get the front where I need it, but need an opinion of which route would be better off-road ?
Hi Bryan - Happy Thanksgiving to you also - I have limited experience with KLR suspension. I will say that the Progressive spring kit you see in this video helped more on-road than off-road. Given the weight of the KLR, you will need a good solution. I can't speak with any knowledge to the Progressive Cartridge kit vs. the Cogent setup. I have heard very good things about Cogent suspension products. I think either would be better than the option I went with. I was seriously considering a Cogent rear shock replacement. That would have been far better (but more expensive) than just upgrading the rear spring as I did. I hesitate to give you advice on products I don't have first hand experience with. But I will say I think your on the right track. That's not much help, but find what's right for you and you style of riding. - Best of luck to you and thanks for watching!
You said you already have the oil in the tube. Is that the same oil that was in there with the original springs? Or did you somehow drain that and put new oil in there?
It was new fork oil. On the Gen2 KLR you can remove the oil with a vacuum pump, or remove the fork tube and pour it out (this is what I did). I recommend replacing the fork oil if you have any miles on your bike. Fork oil is working constantly and does break down. Thanks for watching.
Per the manual, they say 10w fork oil (and that's what I use). Some riders will use lighter or heavier weight oil to help change the dampening. If your oil is good (clean) you do dot have to change it when upgrading the springs. My fork oil needed changing, so I did it while I was upgrading. Thanks for watching.
hello, which would be the code number for this spring? Is this the heavy duty one or the standard ?. My weight is 242 pounds. thanks. Very helpful video.
I cannot believe that they send the new springs with a piece of PVC that you have to cut yourself!! Unbelievable - They could have put a selection of PVC preload tubes in the kit as standard, hell it couldn't cost that much for some cheap PVC pipe!. At least you have a decent PVC pipe cutter, most people will be using a wandering hacksaw that usually never cuts PVC cleanly.Also, Honda state the tight coils to the bottom of the fork, as does Hooke's Law."A suspension spring us under dynamic loads, with the top of the spring held fixed and the deflections being imposed at the bottom of the spring. When the bottom of the spring is forced upwards (by hitting a bump), a compression wave front will travel along the length of the spring. When it reaches the top, it will be reflected back down the spring. However, with a progressive spring, the compression wave will be damped out when it reaches the progressively wound part of the spring because the varying spring rate tends to break the wave into several frequencies. It's better that the wave front be damped out sooner rather than later to avoid standing waves and other strange harmonics going on in the spring, which may introduce vibrations in the front forks. So the progressively wound part of the spring should be at the bottom so that the deflection wave front hits it first and gets damped out immediately, rather than travelling the length of the spring before being damped."
You make some very good points. I have seen some installs with the tighter coils at the bottom. I can see some advantages with that, but I chose to follow the manufacturer's directions. However, it would be very easy to swap them around if desired. Thanks for the comments and for watching.
Hi James, I have had several people ask about this very point and I certainly understand the concern. However, the PVC has held up great so far. As I understand it, the springs and oil are taking the beating and removing nearly all of the shock. As you can see in the video, these springs are much longer and better designed than the OEM springs. The spacer is really just there to provide pre-load adjustment. Thank you for the comment and for watching.
You can check here for Progressive Suspension products www.progressivesuspension.com/ If they don't have it other manufacturers might. Good luck with your search.
The whole idea behind the progressive rate spring is that it provides increasing resistance as the spring compresses. The more tightly wound coils provide that additional resistance at the top of the compression stroke, while the more loosely wound coils provide a softer ride at the bottom of the compression stroke. If the springs are reversed, they will still function, but you negate the effectiveness on the progressive design. Thanks for the question and for watching.
Yes, 3" will be your "base" plus any additional pre-load for extra weight from .125" to .375" (see video at 12:00 time stamp). You can also contact support a Progressive Suspension for confirmation. Thanks for watching.
+Rec Pro - Good questions. I did change the fork oil while upgrading the springs, it is a great time to do it. I made that into a second video(see here: czcams.com/video/YgTVzI5Kj7A/video.html) because it would have been too long for one single video. Plus many riders may just want to do the spring replacement. The progressive spring upgrade can be done without any modifications to the rear shock. I had already upgraded the rear shock coil spring to a heavier Top Gun spring. They do compliment each other well. - Thanks for the comments.
Well, after hours of digging around online and talking to the tech's at Rocky Mountain ATV, Progressive Shocks (the company, not the type of shock) doesn't make a spring for post 2014's :(
Rockynight - I like it. While there are other brands of fork braces out there, which I can't speak to, I have always been happy with Eagle Mike products. It definitely helped make the forks feel more solid and responsive. I have talked with some riders who say they didn't feel much difference, while others rave about the improvement. I personally think it helps and was worth it.
eviltango - Can't say for sure yet, but I don't think it would. The oil stays mostly in the bottom of the fork tube and the PVC spacers are only a few inches long at the very top. So there's nearly no contact with the oil. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Hi Tom, I have a link to the Progressive website in the description. I've also seen them on Rocky Mountain ATV/MC and Amazon. I'm not sure of a good source in Australia. Thanks for watching.
they did improve the overall performance of the front forks (over the stock springs). The old springs would compress way too easily on breaking, causing nose dive. Additionally, the front tire seems more "planted" both on and off road. Progressive springs along with a front fork brace, have made a big difference for me.
I replaced the fork oil while I was at it because it was very dirty. If your oil is clean you can leave it. just check your level/volume and top off if needed. Clean fork oil will help the forks perform as they should.
Tim, I have checked all around and can't find the Progressive Springs for an 09 KLR. Are they the same as the Gen 1 forks? If so I wonder why they don't list 08 and up? Please advise because I would sure like to upgrade the front suspension. Your videos are awesome. You do good work on describing the details.
Curtis Bailey - Here is a link to the springs I used from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1054/-/793289/Progressive-Suspension-"Larry-Roeseler-Series"-Fork-Springs?term=1332340002 My bike is a 2009 and these fit, as you can see in the video. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I tried the link but it is not working for me. I went to rocky mountain and could only find the Larry roeseler edition progressive springs for my 2017. Are these the ones I'm looking for?
yes, true. many have made a similar comment. I had the same thought when I opened the box and found a PVC tube rather than steel. However, The PVC is easier to cut and it seems to be holding up well. You can always cut down the stock steel spacer tubes and use them.
Great vid. I disagree about it being long winded. Your videos have a lot more information than others that I personally find very helpful. I haven't done springs but if I do all I have to do is refer to your video. Your coverage of replacing the footpegs and seats helped me immensely.
Kurtis Dinelle - Hey Kurtis, No you don't have to changes the fork and oil when replacing the springs. you could just drop the new ones in. However, if your fork oil is old, this is a great time to do it. Thanks for the question and for watching.
@@AlanTrades - The KLR650 Maintenance manual calls for 500cc (16.9 US oz.) of 10w Fork Oil per tube. Here's a link to the Fork Oil change video czcams.com/video/YgTVzI5Kj7A/video.html Some people say you should measure from the top of the tube for accurate oil levels, but I go by volume of oil (500cc) as per the maintenance manual.
I love your videos man. Every time I am looking to upgrade something on my KLR I swear you've already done it, and have a nice lengthy video discussing the benefits, procedures, and theory behind it all. It's like a youtube safety blanket whenever I'm in doubt of how to do something or if I should bother in the first place.
When fitting the caps back or any other "screws" like that (sensitive ones), first, by hand, rotate them counterclockwise (the loosen direction) and they will "clanc" into the right position and then you can be sure you won't damage the guidance.
Thanks for the pro tip!
Thanks for the pro tip!
I always do this, it's the best way to square up threads
I really appreciate your video. Not only do you speak clearly, and cover the complete process, but you take time to explain minute details of the work being done. The position of camera is great. The video is clear, and there's no background noise to distract. These things set your videos far apart from other videos I've watched. Many thanks!
Loren
Thank you for the feedback Loren, and thanks for watching.
I just did this mod today. Took on a very short ride but I could immediately tell a big difference!
Hey Joe, I know exactly what you mean. It is a big improvement over stock.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Bets camera work and most accurate explanations I've seen on You Tube.
Thanks Tim for the great video and attention to detail! This was by far the easiest upgrade I have done on my 2008 KLR 650.
Did this the other day with adjustable preload caps. These springs make a HUGE DIFFERENCE. Thanks for your help!
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
I'm curious, which caps did you go with?
+Tim2Wheels I got the inexpensive ones on ebay from China. Pretty good quality for what they are. I simply cut down the spacer 1/2" from what PS calls for since the OE cap and the new cap hit the spacer in a 1/2" difference when the new cap is set in it's middle adjustment position. From that middle position I decrease the preload about a quarter-turn and it felt perfect for me. I'm 210lbs with an Eibach 400# spring.
Who makes the adjustable preload caps?
Awesome videos! My KLR allegedly came with these springs from the previous owner... and you have inspired confidence in me to check now! :) Thanks!
+Korruptionen Hey, thanks for the comments and for watching. Good luck with your project.
You always do great videos. I really appreciate your professional quality and comprehensive videos.
Another great video, Tim. I have the progressive springs on my KLR too. They work great.
Thank you, excellent video! On my old gen 1s there is the shraider air valve so I left out the valse cores to allow free air flow in and out to eliminate the progressive spring effect of the air pressure biuld up letting the new springs to do that. It works way better ,much more free flowing and the fork seals don't leak anymore. The funky part is I needed a way to keep the oil from slashing out so I added clear fuel lines up and around the mirror stems stopping the vibration and cleared up the review. But you must use colour coordinated zip ties ! Now ,I love watching the GSers and KTMers when give her the old stink eye . Catch up to yuh later camera head , lol.
Good Video thanks for taking the time to make it for all of us. Appreciate the tips as well. Ride safe!
+Moto one - Thank you for the comment and for watching!
Love your vids. They are my go to. Did the 465 RAP rear & the Progressive Front fork up grade. Now getting front end wobble at 60+ Mph. Thinking probability my head bearings out of adjustment due to the improved spring tension. Would love to see a vid on head bearing adjustment. Keep up the good work, thanks again.
JAKE LESTER - Thanks for the comments and suggestion. I've been very busy with work lately, but I will see what I can do.
I have a Klr650/08 Model.Just bought.48000 KLM.Suspension feels ok. Brakes slow
If you ride in Illinois you need front springs for wash board trails, I imagine maybe more if you go off road..LOL
Love your video very informational and has helped me several times thank you
Thanks Tim2 for the helpful videos just purchased a 2005 stock klr and it needs upgrades.
Hey Pete, welcome to the KLR family. I hope you enjoy the bike.
Tim2Wheels thanks I will.
Hey Tim, I love your channel! Thanks for the very detailed videos, I actually enjoy the rambling, if you dont like it then skip past it! I have a question for you on your spring kit as I am going to be installing mine tomorrow: How is the PVC piping holding up over time?
Cheers, you deserve more subs!
Hey, thanks for the comment. So far the PVC has been holding up. As expected, the team at Progressive must have tested it before providing it with the springs. Best of luck with your upgrade. It is worth the effort.
Tim2Wheels
I noticed you have an aftermarket rear spring, is it the full suspension or just the upgraded coil? I bought the 465 suspension package from KLR650.com and am going to do it tomorrow as well!
Fortunately I'm somewhat mechanically inclined so I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing and a tutorial for tomorrow isn't required! ;) However I feel many noobs out there would be done well by having your detailed analysis and past tense tutorial on how to do it.
Once again keep up the high quality videos, you and Everride are the reason I bought the Tusk panniers! Cheers!
GanglesGon'Ridin good comments. thanks for watching.
Couldn't you add preload by adding additional spacers above the springs? That way it could be changed if you desired later by adding or removing a spacer.
I think T2W are some of the best KLR videos out there. In one of your videos you said you used to own/ drive big trucks. What type of freight did you haul & what part of the county did you operate. Im also a truck driver-dry van. Mid west -west coast weekly.
+Steve Smitherman We hauled heavy equipment all over US. It was a family business, but I've been away from driving for several years now. Stay safe out there! Thanks for watching.
This is what I do to not cross thread the caps... Either push down on the cap with your fingers or socket with extension (depends on preload) and turn the cap as if loosening. When the thread is ready for engagement you will feel the cap pop down just the width of the thread. This is when the start of the threading of the cap passes the beginning of the threads in the fork. These are fine threads so you may need to do it several times to find it. As soon as you feel the drop begin twisting the opposite direction to begin tightening. Of course make sure you are pushing the cap straight down.
Bill Carpenter - Very good advice Bill. I also learned that loosening the upper fork clamps make the job easier too.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Excellent video buddy, Love it, keep up the great work and have a blessed weekend my friend.
Hey, thanks for the comments and for watching.
I would pull the forks and replace the oil along with the springs. Doesn’t make sense to me to put fresh components in used oil.
Very good explanation thanks 👍
Great video Tim! I have these in my bike and I love them. Keep the videos coming, though at some point you are going to run out of upgrades to do to your bike. May I suggest a Eagle Mike 705 kit?
Good point. I keep telling my wife I need another bike to work on! :) I have considered the EM 705 kit, but this motor runs so well, I hesitate to mess with it.
Love your detail and breaking it down for the average Jo's like myself! Side question, what handguards do you have installed? I purchased some from Tusk but they don't work well without major modifications. Bark Busters seem to be a more popular option and appears that's what you have?
Thanks mate! Really helpful!!
How did you manage the fork oil volume?
What about the oil change, mine is 2013 and need to change it cause i can feel a bump on the top.
Thanks, great video!
your video says to put the tighter windings on the top, the last video i just watched said to put them at the bottom. Does it actually make a difference as long as both are in the same way?
T2w! Happy tday. Was up all night watching klr vids on suspension including yours, and was wondering if you had any thoughts on the progressive cartridge kit vs the cogent spring and damper kit. Was considering the emig kx fork swap but now I’m thinking I can get the Moab shock and either fork kit and have a complete susp job. I’m hoping with spacers and heavier fluid I can get the front where I need it, but need an opinion of which route would be better off-road ?
Hi Bryan - Happy Thanksgiving to you also - I have limited experience with KLR suspension. I will say that the Progressive spring kit you see in this video helped more on-road than off-road. Given the weight of the KLR, you will need a good solution. I can't speak with any knowledge to the Progressive Cartridge kit vs. the Cogent setup. I have heard very good things about Cogent suspension products. I think either would be better than the option I went with. I was seriously considering a Cogent rear shock replacement. That would have been far better (but more expensive) than just upgrading the rear spring as I did. I hesitate to give you advice on products I don't have first hand experience with. But I will say I think your on the right track. That's not much help, but find what's right for you and you style of riding. - Best of luck to you and thanks for watching!
what diameter for the spacers please Im newbie and just bought 30$ of pipes and still didnt get it right
Does the klr 250 have the same fork as the 650?
You said you already have the oil in the tube. Is that the same oil that was in there with the original springs? Or did you somehow drain that and put new oil in there?
It was new fork oil. On the Gen2 KLR you can remove the oil with a vacuum pump, or remove the fork tube and pour it out (this is what I did). I recommend replacing the fork oil if you have any miles on your bike. Fork oil is working constantly and does break down.
Thanks for watching.
How much and what kind of oil do you put in? Do you even have to put fork oil in?
Per the manual, they say 10w fork oil (and that's what I use). Some riders will use lighter or heavier weight oil to help change the dampening. If your oil is good (clean) you do dot have to change it when upgrading the springs. My fork oil needed changing, so I did it while I was upgrading.
Thanks for watching.
@@Tim2Wheels how do you actually drain and refill the oil?
@@AlanTrades here's a link to the video showing how to change the fork oil. czcams.com/video/YgTVzI5Kj7A/video.html
I love your videos! Klr650 2015 front fork is basic fork system ?
hello, which would be the code number for this spring? Is this the heavy duty one or the standard ?. My weight is 242 pounds.
thanks. Very helpful video.
I cannot believe that they send the new springs with a piece of PVC that you have to cut yourself!! Unbelievable - They could have put a selection of PVC preload tubes in the kit as standard, hell it couldn't cost that much for some cheap PVC pipe!. At least you have a decent PVC pipe cutter, most people will be using a wandering hacksaw that usually never cuts PVC cleanly.Also, Honda state the tight coils to the bottom of the fork, as does Hooke's Law."A suspension spring us under dynamic loads, with the top of the spring held fixed and the deflections being imposed at the bottom of the spring. When the bottom of the spring is forced upwards (by hitting a bump), a compression wave front will travel along the length of the spring. When it reaches the top, it will be reflected back down the spring. However, with a progressive spring, the compression wave will be damped out when it reaches the progressively wound part of the spring because the varying spring rate tends to break the wave into several frequencies. It's better that the wave front be damped out sooner rather than later to avoid standing waves and other strange harmonics going on in the spring, which may introduce vibrations in the front forks. So the progressively wound part of the spring should be at the bottom so that the deflection wave front hits it first and gets damped out immediately, rather than travelling the length of the spring before being damped."
You make some very good points. I have seen some installs with the tighter coils at the bottom. I can see some advantages with that, but I chose to follow the manufacturer's directions. However, it would be very easy to swap them around if desired. Thanks for the comments and for watching.
So which is the correct way?
i don't understand how that pvc could be strong enough to handle the weight??? wont the shatter inside your forks?
Hi James, I have had several people ask about this very point and I certainly understand the concern. However, the PVC has held up great so far. As I understand it, the springs and oil are taking the beating and removing nearly all of the shock. As you can see in the video, these springs are much longer and better designed than the OEM springs. The spacer is really just there to provide pre-load adjustment.
Thank you for the comment and for watching.
CAUTION! THICKER Springs, & More coils on top end.... takes up more space, Hence LESS FORK OIL.
Sir, please advise if there is any spring kit for Interceptor as well. A website link would suffice. Thanks in advance.
You can check here for Progressive Suspension products www.progressivesuspension.com/
If they don't have it other manufacturers might.
Good luck with your search.
Why is it in inches for metric bike ? Measurement .125 and .375 :D Wont it be easier to have it in mm ?
We use inches still so and aren't going to convert shit so deal with it.
What if springs are installed with tightly wound coils down....plz answer
The whole idea behind the progressive rate spring is that it provides increasing resistance as the spring compresses. The more tightly wound coils provide that additional resistance at the top of the compression stroke, while the more loosely wound coils provide a softer ride at the bottom of the compression stroke.
If the springs are reversed, they will still function, but you negate the effectiveness on the progressive design.
Thanks for the question and for watching.
I just received my Progressive springs but I didn't receive the insert for spacer length. I have a 2016. Should it still be 3.00"?
Yes, 3" will be your "base" plus any additional pre-load for extra weight from .125" to .375" (see video at 12:00 time stamp). You can also contact support a Progressive Suspension for confirmation.
Thanks for watching.
Why not go ahead and change out the fork oil? Should I replace the rear shock if I'm doing the front springs too?
+Rec Pro - Good questions. I did change the fork oil while upgrading the springs, it is a great time to do it. I made that into a second video(see here: czcams.com/video/YgTVzI5Kj7A/video.html) because it would have been too long for one single video. Plus many riders may just want to do the spring replacement.
The progressive spring upgrade can be done without any modifications to the rear shock. I had already upgraded the rear shock coil spring to a heavier Top Gun spring. They do compliment each other well. - Thanks for the comments.
+Tim2Wheels Yes, I caught that video later. Is there one brand recommended over another with the springs?
+Rec Pro I've answered my own question. Progressive Suspension is the brand.
Well, after hours of digging around online and talking to the tech's at Rocky Mountain ATV, Progressive Shocks (the company, not the type of shock) doesn't make a spring for post 2014's :(
Sorry to hear that. But it''s good for others to know that may be in the same situation. Thanks for sharing that info.
I was disappointed as well but it worked out for the best. I pulled the trigger on the Cogent Dynamics DDC and springs set up.
Thoughts on the Eagle Mike fork brace?
Rockynight - I like it. While there are other brands of fork braces out there, which I can't speak to, I have always been happy with Eagle Mike products.
It definitely helped make the forks feel more solid and responsive. I have talked with some riders who say they didn't feel much difference, while others rave about the improvement. I personally think it helps and was worth it.
Does the fork oil damage the pvc tube over the long run?
eviltango - Can't say for sure yet, but I don't think it would. The oil stays mostly in the bottom of the fork tube and the PVC spacers are only a few inches long at the very top. So there's nearly no contact with the oil.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Tim I see the newest year on that chart was 2013 will these work on a 2017?
I would check with the manufacturer or seller on that to be sure. There may be a different product number for the newer KLRs.
Thanks for watching.
Where are these springs available from ?? cheers from Aus Top Vids
Hi Tom,
I have a link to the Progressive website in the description. I've also seen them on Rocky Mountain ATV/MC and Amazon. I'm not sure of a good source in Australia.
Thanks for watching.
Tim, how much $$ trade in value did they give you for this beautifully looked after baby when you traded up for the BMW?
Hi this kit fits on the old first generation of klr ?? , thanks
Enzo, I think it will, but you should check with the manufacturer or seller to be sure.
06 is gen1 👍
What weight oil did you use???
Tony Castro I used 10w as specified in the maintenance manual. Some will use heavier weight oil to increase dampening.
How much of a difference do these make?
they did improve the overall performance of the front forks (over the stock springs). The old springs would compress way too easily on breaking, causing nose dive. Additionally, the front tire seems more "planted" both on and off road. Progressive springs along with a front fork brace, have made a big difference for me.
Tim2Wheels what about fork oil? You didn't have to fill a new one or replace it?
I replaced the fork oil while I was at it because it was very dirty. If your oil is clean you can leave it. just check your level/volume and top off if needed.
Clean fork oil will help the forks perform as they should.
Tim, I have checked all around and can't find the Progressive Springs for an 09 KLR. Are they the same as the Gen 1 forks? If so I wonder why they don't list 08 and up? Please advise because I would sure like to upgrade the front suspension. Your videos are awesome. You do good work on describing the details.
Curtis Bailey - Here is a link to the springs I used from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1054/-/793289/Progressive-Suspension-"Larry-Roeseler-Series"-Fork-Springs?term=1332340002
My bike is a 2009 and these fit, as you can see in the video. I hope this helps.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks Tim. Keep up the great videos.
Great video. I tried the link but it is not working for me. I went to rocky mountain and could only find the Larry roeseler edition progressive springs for my 2017. Are these the ones I'm looking for?
The pvc pipe vs the oem steel seems cheap
yes, true. many have made a similar comment. I had the same thought when I opened the box and found a PVC tube rather than steel. However, The PVC is easier to cut and it seems to be holding up well. You can always cut down the stock steel spacer tubes and use them.
I think they changed out the PVC for steel pipe.I just checked my box and that's what I was given.
Good video but very long winded :-)
True. I am working on being more concise :) -Thanks for watching and for the feedback.
Great vid. I disagree about it being long winded. Your videos have a lot more information than others that I personally find very helpful. I haven't done springs but if I do all I have to do is refer to your video.
Your coverage of replacing the footpegs and seats helped me immensely.
Is it necessary to change the fork oil when doing this upgrade? If so, what do you recommend?
Kurtis Dinelle - Hey Kurtis, No you don't have to changes the fork and oil when replacing the springs. you could just drop the new ones in. However, if your fork oil is old, this is a great time to do it.
Thanks for the question and for watching.
@@Tim2Wheels how do you measure it and how much do you use
@@AlanTrades - The KLR650 Maintenance manual calls for 500cc (16.9 US oz.) of 10w Fork Oil per tube. Here's a link to the Fork Oil change video czcams.com/video/YgTVzI5Kj7A/video.html
Some people say you should measure from the top of the tube for accurate oil levels, but I go by volume of oil (500cc) as per the maintenance manual.