Whenever reinstalling the front wheel it is a good idea to pump the front suspension before tightening down the axle. This will help ensure your wheel is aligned correctly. Obviously if you are changing your fork oil in the process finish that first and get the cap back on before you pump the suspension.
I also know that I can't trust other people to do the work right. I am so thankful that I stumbled across you on CZcams. Your in-depth knowledge and skill and explaining the procedures for repairing and maintaining my new bike is absolutely excellent I understand the type of work that goes into editing such a smooth video as you produce. Thank you for taking the time and extreme effort to produce these videos
I think it would be a good time to tell guys who don't know.....At this time a really good time to check the steering head bearings. Common time to pull that apart clean, inspect or replace bearings. For $30 bucks slamming those new bearings and races in there is a no brainer. :)
That's a very good point Chris. It's always good to check, re-pack, or replace the steering head bearing when you into the front-end. Thanks for the comment.
Also I will be making some upgrades to the bike and I can see you have done the research for me already. That's going to save me a lot of time, and possible mistakes. Sir you are a scholar and a gentleman. Thank you
Just watched this again Tim, I'm about to install cogent springs up front and the cogent Moab in the rear. I'd considered doing my own "how to" but I don't think I could do it better. Thanks again and ride safe!
Thanks for the comments. I'm glad so many viewers like my videos. Good luck with your upgrade. Cogent Dynamics is right here in my area. Those guys make quality products. Thanks for watching.
The Klr has old school forks,considereing its an adventure bike a simple pair of drain holes in the bottom would stop it being such a tedious job, back in the day changinging for oil was a quick simple job , great vid ..
You could just use 2 big U-bolts through the rims, bolting the bike to an I beam, Then flip the whole bike upside down using a small crane or big fork lift..LOL!!. Ya may want to drain the gas and oil out first.
I just picked up a 2009 KLR 650 Although I am somewhat mechanically inclined I am new to working on bikes. I do know that I am cheap and I don't like people to pay to do my work.
thanks to you dear friend! My friend will change that oil to my bike and ask me how much oil... I answer him:"Let me see T2W for sure his videos will asnwer that questions. BTW Belray here is our preferred brand for this and for motor oil. Happy new year Amigo 🏍🇨🇷
Hey Tim.. I was wondering instead of taking the forks off the bike could you just use a Shop-Vac and suck the oil out of the forks? Maybe lay the bike down so it rolls out easier then use a Shop-Vac.. Do you think that would work?
Tim, thanks, great video. But I see this question above but sdont see that you have answered… can you not siphon oil out ? Instead of removing forms? Thabks! Never mind, just saw end of video where you say you can pump it out! Thanks!
Thanks a LOT i was changeing or making the maintance of My klr 2001 lam put a new seals but l have not ldea how much fork oil l need in each tube mmmaaanny THANKS A LOT FRIEND FROM PARRAS DE LA FUENTE COAHUILA MÉXICO
Just found your page and am a fairly new 2015KLR owner. Are all of your maintenance videos applicable to a 2015? And boy do you have a clean bike. 😆 I never can get my bike that clean
Hello Tim, thank you for your thorough review. I have a question. The Bel Ray fork oil you use, is that synthetic? Is it ok to use a synthetic fork oil on my 2013 KLR. I am installing the progressive front springs and changing the oil at the same time. Thank you for your advice.
Hey, thanks for comment, I have done a video on the Fox Racing Deluxe Tool Pack that covers the tools I carry. Here's the link: czcams.com/video/YCwE921ogrw/video.html
This is for newer models. My clymer manual (2006 Model) says we can just drain it via a drain screw at the base of the forks. Is this something the most do not recommend? is there a reason people take the whole assembly off rather than just do that (other than a lack of a drain bolt)?
Hey, sorry for the delay. I can't speak for the Gen 1 KLR on the proper way to drain the forks. I can see how using the plug would be easier than removing the fork tubes. Maybe other Gen 1 owners can chime in on this? Thanks for the comment.
@@Tim2Wheels yes, Gen1 has a drain bolt at the bottom. It's a weird phillips head, maybe the Japanese variation. Mine were quite stuck, so I had to hack saw them into flat head screws. After they broke loose, most of the oil will drain out of the hole. Remove the cap and spring and you can actuate the fork to pump the rest out. There will still be a few drips left once that's all done, so be sure to turn your fork upside down and let it sit for a while.
That is correct. There will be some residual oil left when you pour the old oil out. Just adding the specified volume will be close to the right amount, but not accurate. The KLR 650 shop manual shows the correct way to measure the oil amount by measuring the level with the spring out, fork vertical and compressed. It should be 130 mm from the top for the Gen 2 KLR.
The top of my Gen 1 KLR fork caps have a black plastic cap and under it is a schrader valve! Maybe I can just drain them at the bottom since it's a 2005??
Great video. I have a few questions: How is your bike supported, are those just jack stands and is the rear wheel on the ground? Is It strapped down? What editing software are you using?
Yes, at the time I shot that footage, I was using automotive jack stands under the SW-Motech crash bars. I could adjust them forward or back to lift front or back whell as needed. Since then, I bought a motorcycle jack from Northern Tool that lifts the whole bike evenly (much easier) plus I can roll it around the shop. I use Camtasia Studio for editing. - Thanks for the comments.
Tony Castro - I used 10w as per the factory recommendation. But, I do think a heavier oil would be better to slow the dampening a bit. The next time I will try 15w to see how that feels.
Tim, your videos are the best for the KLR. Thank you! One question regarding fork oil: Why does it need to be changed? If the forks are sealed, without leaks, there would seem to be no entry point for dirt and contaminants. As there is no combustion, no corrosive contaminants are formed, as with engine oil. Seems this would be no different from differential gear oil, which goes far longer than the miles at which you changed your KLR's fork oil. Thanks again!
Tony, good question and I can see why you would think that. Many owners never change the fork oil. However, even in a sealed environment, the oil will wear, break down, and loose its viscosity over time. As you could see in the video, my oil was dark and dirty when I dumped it out. Clean oil will help the fork perform at their best. I do tend to change lubricants more often than needed, but I like having a "well oiled machine". Thanks for the question and for watching.
Tim2Wheels Well, I passed on the fork-oil change. But boy, Tim, your spring-change video sure made that swap easy! Literally took just minutes. The tip to loosen the top fork clamps really helped. Thanks!
Whenever reinstalling the front wheel it is a good idea to pump the front suspension before tightening down the axle. This will help ensure your wheel is aligned correctly. Obviously if you are changing your fork oil in the process finish that first and get the cap back on before you pump the suspension.
What do you mean by pumping the suspension? Could you expand a little bit? Thanks in advanced?
I also know that I can't trust other people to do the work right.
I am so thankful that I stumbled across you on CZcams. Your in-depth knowledge and skill and explaining the procedures for repairing and maintaining my new bike is absolutely excellent
I understand the type of work that goes into editing such a smooth video as you produce.
Thank you for taking the time and extreme effort to produce these videos
Thanks for the video; this is a perfect complement to the spring change that you did. As a "KLR Newbie" I also appreciate the Maintenance Series.
Thanks for the feedback and for watching.
I think it would be a good time to tell guys who don't know.....At this time a really good time to check the steering head bearings. Common time to pull that apart clean, inspect or replace bearings. For $30 bucks slamming those new bearings and races in there is a no brainer. :)
That's a very good point Chris. It's always good to check, re-pack, or replace the steering head bearing when you into the front-end.
Thanks for the comment.
I was going to have the local shop change my fork oil but now I'll just do it myself. Thanks for the great videos on the Klr650.
+John Webb Thanks for watching. Have fun with your project.
Did it the other day. It wasn't a hard job at all after watching your detailed video. Thanks again!
Also I will be making some upgrades to the bike and I can see you have done the research for me already.
That's going to save me a lot of time, and possible mistakes.
Sir you are a scholar and a gentleman. Thank you
Just watched this again Tim, I'm about to install cogent springs up front and the cogent Moab in the rear. I'd considered doing my own "how to" but I don't think I could do it better. Thanks again and ride safe!
Thanks for the comments. I'm glad so many viewers like my videos. Good luck with your upgrade. Cogent Dynamics is right here in my area. Those guys make quality products.
Thanks for watching.
Very helpful video, all the details needed and no time wasted! Thanks!
Again, great video. Complete coverage for a first time beginner, to the operation.
Thanks for the video.
Loren
Just ordered the springs and I gotta say I really appreciate this video.
+Dean Kemmer Thanks for the comment. It is good to know the videos help. Good luck with your project.
Good stuff, Tim. Thanks for sharing. I’ve got about 25km (15mi) on my bike so it’s time to replace my oil as well. 👍🏽
Thanks Tim in the process of doing the same.Puting progressive springs etc.Great video👍👍
Nice and simple. Thanks!
The Klr has old school forks,considereing its an adventure bike a simple pair of drain holes in the bottom would stop it being such a tedious job, back in the day changinging for oil was a quick simple job , great vid ..
You could just use 2 big U-bolts through the rims, bolting the bike to an I beam, Then flip the whole bike upside down using a small crane or big fork lift..LOL!!. Ya may want to drain the gas and oil out first.
Checking in from Jesse's cool program. HELLLO WORLD :3
I just picked up a 2009 KLR 650
Although I am somewhat mechanically inclined I am new to working on bikes.
I do know that I am cheap and I don't like people to pay to do my work.
could you use a brake bleeding syphon with a long tube to reach the bottom? No need to remove the forks.
thanks to you dear friend! My friend will change that oil to my bike and ask me how much oil... I answer him:"Let me see T2W for sure his videos will asnwer that questions. BTW Belray here is our preferred brand for this and for motor oil. Happy new year Amigo 🏍🇨🇷
Thanks for making the video!
Fantastic job! Thanks for sharing your knowledge... Greetings from Tecojorita municipio de Terrompo el Chico Jalisco México
Hey Tim.. I was wondering instead of taking the forks off the bike could you just use a Shop-Vac and suck the oil out of the forks? Maybe lay the bike down so it rolls out easier then use a Shop-Vac.. Do you think that would work?
Save some time use a fluid evacuator system. I have one and change my fluids in my car and motorcycle. Works great!
Thanks for the videos. Now BMW will benefit ridera from your expertise .
Thanks for the comment Karam, and thanks for watching.
Tim, thanks, great video. But I see this question above but sdont see that you have answered… can you not siphon oil out ? Instead of removing forms? Thabks!
Never mind, just saw end of video where you say you can pump it out! Thanks!
Nice job!
Thanks a LOT i was changeing or making the maintance of My klr 2001 lam put a new seals but l have not ldea how much fork oil l need in each tube mmmaaanny THANKS A LOT FRIEND FROM PARRAS DE LA FUENTE COAHUILA MÉXICO
sup tim
any vids how to up grade to LED lights?
Just found your page and am a fairly new 2015KLR owner. Are all of your maintenance videos applicable to a 2015? And boy do you have a clean bike. 😆 I never can get my bike that clean
Hello Tim, thank you for your thorough review. I have a question. The Bel Ray fork oil you use, is that synthetic?
Is it ok to use a synthetic fork oil on my 2013 KLR. I am installing the progressive front springs and changing the oil at the same time. Thank you for your advice.
Suggestion for another video. Building a better KLR toolkit. :)
Hey, thanks for comment, I have done a video on the Fox Racing Deluxe Tool Pack that covers the tools I carry. Here's the link: czcams.com/video/YCwE921ogrw/video.html
This is for newer models. My clymer manual (2006 Model) says we can just drain it via a drain screw at the base of the forks. Is this something the most do not recommend? is there a reason people take the whole assembly off rather than just do that (other than a lack of a drain bolt)?
Hey, sorry for the delay. I can't speak for the Gen 1 KLR on the proper way to drain the forks. I can see how using the plug would be easier than removing the fork tubes.
Maybe other Gen 1 owners can chime in on this?
Thanks for the comment.
@@Tim2Wheels yes, Gen1 has a drain bolt at the bottom. It's a weird phillips head, maybe the Japanese variation. Mine were quite stuck, so I had to hack saw them into flat head screws. After they broke loose, most of the oil will drain out of the hole. Remove the cap and spring and you can actuate the fork to pump the rest out. There will still be a few drips left once that's all done, so be sure to turn your fork upside down and let it sit for a while.
oil level should be measured from the top of compressed fork without spring , not by volume.
That is correct. There will be some residual oil left when you pour the old oil out. Just adding the specified volume will be close to the right amount, but not accurate. The KLR 650 shop manual shows the correct way to measure the oil amount by measuring the level with the spring out, fork vertical and compressed. It should be 130 mm from the top for the Gen 2 KLR.
The top of my Gen 1 KLR fork caps have a black plastic cap and under it is a schrader valve! Maybe I can just drain them at the bottom since it's a 2005??
So does it drain
Great video. I have a few questions: How is your bike supported, are those just jack stands and is the rear wheel on the ground? Is It strapped down? What editing software are you using?
Yes, at the time I shot that footage, I was using automotive jack stands under the SW-Motech crash bars. I could adjust them forward or back to lift front or back whell as needed. Since then, I bought a motorcycle jack from Northern Tool that lifts the whole bike evenly (much easier) plus I can roll it around the shop. I use Camtasia Studio for editing. - Thanks for the comments.
Can you run a heavier weight oil?
Yes, you can run heavier oil. It will slow the rebound, but some people prefer that.
Thanks for watching.
Was fork weight oil perfect or could you go with thinker for slower response??? Thx Tony
Tony Castro - I used 10w as per the factory recommendation. But, I do think a heavier oil would be better to slow the dampening a bit. The next time I will try 15w to see how that feels.
Is there drain plug for 2007 model
Yes, it's the little screw at the bottom side of the fork. Use a Phillips screwdriver!
Use ATF it's cheaper. Or better still hydro oil 32. Yer paying for the Bellray name.
Tim, your videos are the best for the KLR. Thank you! One question regarding fork oil: Why does it need to be changed? If the forks are sealed, without leaks, there would seem to be no entry point for dirt and contaminants. As there is no combustion, no corrosive contaminants are formed, as with engine oil. Seems this would be no different from differential gear oil, which goes far longer than the miles at which you changed your KLR's fork oil. Thanks again!
Tony, good question and I can see why you would think that. Many owners never change the fork oil. However, even in a sealed environment, the oil will wear, break down, and loose its viscosity over time. As you could see in the video, my oil was dark and dirty when I dumped it out. Clean oil will help the fork perform at their best. I do tend to change lubricants more often than needed, but I like having a "well oiled machine".
Thanks for the question and for watching.
Tim2Wheels Well, I passed on the fork-oil change. But boy, Tim, your spring-change video sure made that swap easy! Literally took just minutes. The tip to loosen the top fork clamps really helped. Thanks!
Gotcha!
+Rec Pro I see you found it :)
I had just left a reply to your other comment. - Thanks for watching.
+Tim2Wheels You think 15w fork oil would be better to use with these springs?
it is a personal choice. I think the 15W would work fine. I used 20W as recommended.
I thought 10w was recommended?
ill be suckin the oil out me thinks.
Could you just suck out the oil?