The Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Performance | Pro Climber's Choice
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- čas přidán 14. 02. 2023
- Pro Climbing Shoes: What Top Athletes Wear
Climbing shoes are an essential part of a climber's gear, and top athletes put a lot of thought into choosing the right shoes for their needs. From the hardest v17 boulders to 9c routes, climbers need shoes that offer maximum performance, comfort, and durability. In this article, we take a closer look at what some of the world's top climbers use on their feet.
Shawn Raboutou, the world's strongest outdoor boulderer, uses a combination of La Sportiva Solutions and Miuras. This combination is common among La Sportiva climbers, and you'll often see them switching between the two shoes.
Jimmy Webb, the world's best flash boulderer, is sponsored by Tenaya and wears their Mastias. However, Tenaya has recently launched a new flagship shoe.
Janja Garnbret, the Olympic gold medalist and greatest competition climber of all time, wears Five Ten Hiangle Pros. She uses the third version of the shoe, which comes in white or black, for both bouldering and sport climbing indoors and out.
Ai Mori, Janja's biggest rival, wears La Sportiva Futura for bouldering. This No-Edge technology shoe has a little more leeway when placing your foot on indistinct holds or when smearing. Ai Mori switches to Solutions when lead climbing.
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, two of the world's greatest free soloists, use La Sportiva TC Pros. Adam Ondra, the greatest climber of all time, uses La Sportiva Solution Comp for lead competitions and La Sportiva Theorys for bouldering. Seb Bouin, famous for sending DNA 9c, rocks a unique brand called EB Sentinel, which is more well known among the French climbing community.
Alex Megos uses Tenaya Iatis, and Chris Sharma is also a fan of the brand. Stefano Ghisolfi, who recently climbed Excalibur 9b+, uses La Sportiva Solution Comp and has the Miura in his arsenal. Jakob Shubert's climbing shoe of choice is the La Sportiva Solution, with the updated model being his most used.
Tomoa Narasaki, the multiple world cup bouldering champion, uses Unparallel Flagships, despite the fact that TN Pros were made in his name. Meichi Narasaki, Tomoa's brother, uses La Sportiva Theory in a unique burgundy color. Futaba Ito, who won the Japan Bouldering Cup, rocks La Sportiva Skwama or Theorys. Miho Nonaka recently switched from Tenaya to Five Ten, and Natalia Grossman, the overall world cup bouldering champion, wears Five Ten Hiangle Pros.
In conclusion, climbers put a lot of thought into their gear, and their choice of shoes can make a big difference in their performance. Whether it's La Sportiva, Tenaya, Five Ten, or another brand, it's interesting to see what the world's top climbers use on their feet.
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Worth noting that Shawn Raboutou used the Miura VS, evidently they're more aggressive and stiff than lace up Miuras
Also, the solution comps were released 4 years after Ondra sent Silence, he used the normal Solutions.
Have they discontinued the Miura VS? I dont see them around anymore. Would be sick if they made a Miura VS with more toe patch
Ah I had trouble identifying them thanks! they could be skwamas but they look so much like theorys
@@skillby nice! you have some insider info? lmao
He used a normal solution as well as a miura
They’re discontinued 😢😢. My favorite
Pretty sure Meichi was wearing red skwamas in that comp, not theories.
great vid great effort for the video,
just a couple precisions:
the 5.10 hiangle pro are the black version and in every discipline Janja wears the 5.10 hiangle women edition
EB isnt the brand of seb Bouin its just a sponsor
Lastly for Meichi Narasaki doesnt wear theorys but skwamas which are the black and red version
great vid bro 👌👌
Janja wears the Tokyo edition of the pros which are the same color scheme of the regular but are the pro version
The next Unparallel Flagship is gonna be ''Flagship Pro'' model, its just a updated version with faster break in time for competition.
Meichi uses the ''Skwama'', not the Theory ;)
Sharma used to wear evolv exclusively. Those were the evolv pontas he is wearing while climbing es pontas.
thanks diesel! evolv is really popular where I am. What shoes do you wear?
@@BoulderingHighlights La Sportiva Pythons are my favorite! I've worn them for...about 12 years now (probably 10 pairs or so). I've owned/worn Madrock Phoenix & Hookers, Evlov Pontas, Ocun Oxi S, and La Sportiva Solution & Genius & Python.
@@dieselrugg wow nice collection there diesel! I havent climbed on much la sportiva yet only tested the Katanas. How are Ocuns? im curious about that brand
@@BoulderingHighlights I got the Ocun's when La Sportiva temporarily discontinued the Python. I like the Oxi a lot, but they are a bit stiffer than the python....however, that is helpful on small edges. Oh and I wear a 44 size in normal shoes, 42.5 for the Python, and 44 for the Oxi S. Try them on!! LOL
@@dieselrugg theres a shop with OCuns ill check them out haha
Im looking for a medium stiff, very slightly downturn shoe
Which would you reccomend?
Adam ondra did not wear the solution comp for silence, they haven’t even been released at the time
He did, he’s sponsored by them tho he had one different shoe per feet
@@lilyrBZH solution comps were released in 2020 and he sent silence in 2017, the math isn't matching here
@@lilyrBZHhe didn't. He used solutions, not comp solutions plus a miura
Yes he used a Solution and a stiffer Miura. The Solution Comp wasn't released at the time
@@lilyrBZHhe wore regular solution on right and Miura on the left
Magnus Midtbo uses Dragos or Furia S actually. He mentioned both types throughout many of his videos
Yeah he uses both of those when he's trying hard. But if you look closely you'll notice he's actually wearing veloce like 90% of the time (even when he free solo'd with honnold)
Tomoa Narasushi? Somebody was hungry at the time of writing. :)
Aren't the Hiangle Pros the black ones?
I think Meichi Narasaki is using the female version of the theory. I think in the video him bouldering you can see it. It is at the leashe white like the theroy and not red like the skwama
Adam used a Miura on the left foot and a Solution on the right on Silence.
That seems to be the case for Shawn and brooke raboutou too
Specifically a gen 1 solution
@@BoulderingHighlights Adam Ondra used Miura laces, Shawn Rabotou Miura VS
I though there is chalk on your shirt for the first sight 😂😂😂😂
We are climbers, we always wear chalk 🤪
adam ondata used la sportiva solution and miura to senso silence
and the video that you show was excalibur that he do not send
Scarpa vsr for me!
Very unprecise analyse.
Solution is by far the most versatile climbing shoes
I found thay they kinda suck for smearing but are ahead of the game for everything else
and Meichi use skwama not theory
So many mistakes and fake facts in this video… Wrong shoes, wrong names (Tomoa Narasushi?).
I feel like this video wasn’t made by a climber…