How to Choose the Best Climbing Shoes 2023
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- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
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This ultimate guide to choosing climbing shoes 2023 is designed to help you on your way to choosing the best pair of climbing shoes for you. In collaboration with James at @OutsideHathersage , this guide covers everything you need to know before buying your first pair, some tips to help you understand what the best brand and model might be for you and answers a couple of frequently asked questions. I hope you find this guide helpful when looking for your beginner climbing shoes or upgrading!
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00:01: How to Pick the Right Climbing Shoes for you
00:55: Fit: How Should Climbing Shoes Fit?
02:10 Shape: What shape of climbing shoe is best | Symmetrical vs Asymmetrical climbing shoes | Do I need a downturned climbing shoe?
03:27: Last: What does Last mean in climbing shoes?
06:31: Climbing shoe materials: Leather Vs Synthetic Uppers | Will my climbing shoes stretch?
08:03: Which Climbing Shoe Rubber is best? Different Rock Types demand a different type of shoe
09:32: Scarpa Instinct Vs Scarpa Instinct VS Comparison
10:27: Low Volume vs High Volume Climbing Shoes
13:05: Climbing Shoe Closure Types | Slipper vs Velcro vs Lace Up Climbing Shoes
14:43: Trying Climbing Shoes | Upgrading your climbing shoes
15:12: 5:10 Anasazis
15:56: Can you get performance from a flat climbing shoe? Tenaya Iati and Tenaya Mastia
17:00: La Sportiva Skwama VS La Sportiva Solutions
19:26: The best all-round bouldering shoe?
21:30 Pay attention to climbing shoe sizing between brands!
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One addition to rubber hardness, especially indoors: slipping tends to make you go through more rubber under the tip than normal climbing. With harder rubber, you have less friction and will likely slip on holds and smears more than you might with a softer rubber. Hardness doesn’t necessarily equate to durability. My Skwama last longer than my Instinct VSR and VS, and I reckon that’s down to the rubber thickness. Instincts have 3.5mm of rubber, Skwama feels like 4-4.5mm.
Great video by the way, Hannah! Lots of good info that I appreciate as a climbing shoe nerd, will link inquisitive friends to this one :)
Ah excellent point. I'd wondered why some softer rubbers seemed to last longer.
Great point, thanks for bringing it up! Hope you enjoyed the video 🎉
I’ve noticed the same. My shoes with xs grip (skwama) seem to last longer than the edge rubber (Vapor Vs) even though it should be the other way around. Maybe it’s thickness, or maybe they’re slipping less idk
@@jacoba756 Sensitivity too! I have quieter feet with softer shoes and scrape the wall less.
This would have been super helpful for me when I was first trying to figure out climbing shoes! I think pointing out the difference in sizing is SUPER helpful and I hope any newer climbers can get a lot out of this! Thanks Hannah and James!
Cheers James for laying out all the terms - and debunking a few myths. Climbing shoes come in so many shapes and sizes but always good to remember what purpose they’re trying to serve!
I recently upgraded from some 50€ Decathlon comfy beginner shoes to the previous Vapor V, not the current version, but the yellow/grey one, and now that they are broken in, I love that shoe and I was really surprised how big the difference was. It felt almost like I needed to learn to climb again because now I can stand on holds that were impossible with the beginner shoe. Great educational video!
Glad you think so! It’s so interesting how variations in shoe can make climbing feel quite different. 😊
Started in the 5.10 pinkies, later on climbed with La Sportiva Miura laces. Last year's I have the Scarpa Vapor V, such good all-round shoe!
It's exactly the same for me! Also started with the Decathlon ones and upgraded recently to Red Chili's. The new shoes are such a game changer, I never expected it to be this much of a difference! Feels like I could jump up two grades just through the shoes. I even get to climb routes with more difficult handholds - simply because I trust my feet more. It's amazing! :D
Thank you for the very practical approach to climbing shoes. Most videos just explain the fundamentals (type of rubber, downturn vs flat, type of closeure, etc) but they don't explain how that could mean different things for different people and why. Great video and James was amazing with very clear information and suggestions.
Great video. Mistake I made (repeatedly) when picking shoes was to choose a shoe based on style/type/price and then try to size it to fit. Going tighter for more 'performance'. I ended up with shoes with terrible hot spots as James mentioned, mostly a crushed big toe. Took me a long time to realise that the shape is what's important. Finding a snug shoe, that evenly holds the foot all the way around is the way to get both comfort and performance. I have some downturned, aggressive shoes which are way comfier than my old flat ones due to the even fit.
yay! i had been excitedly waiting for this video after you mentioned you were working on it :)
this will really help when my beginner shoes are finally worn out to head to the store. thank you, Hannah!
It’s been in the pipeline for ages it feels! The video schedule has been hectic lately it seems. Hope you found the information useful and that you’re psyched on your new shoes when you get them.
Hi, great videos! Your channel has been so helpful, because I want to try bouldering and rock climbing this year. Also, you have pretty awesome guests on.
Cool video. I just went from Lasportiva tarantulace to Tenaya Oasi (not the lv version, but this one I find a bit wider). I tried the solution, but hated the heel, it hurt.. So the Oasi felt like a softer, kinder version of the solution. I have tried it in the gym, and find that it makes med way more comfortable on small foot holds, and much comfyer heel hooks as the heel is more "protected" than in my first shoes, tarantulace. Thank you for another interesting video 😊🫶
Great video thanks! I had a couple of shoes in mind for my second pair, went to try them and absolutely no go, the staff were great got me fitted in the Veloce and I totally rate them, they feel great! Mens shoes but I’ve wide feet and they are lovely to boulder in
I needed this video! I’m getting to the point where I’m needing a new pair and this was so informative.
Glad you found it useful!
Dear Hannah,
I've recently found your channel and I'm a bloody beginner on the wall. But thanks to this video I've found a really nice pair of shoes and am hyped to try them out. Also I really love your videos, have already learned a lot from it in theory. Greetings from Germany.
Thanks Hannah (and James)! I loved the answer to my question. I was already taking a look at Tenaya this Christmas (funny that James picked those models) and indeed they felt comfortable right out of the box!
Ah I’m glad! Glad you thought the Tenayas were a good fit - did you go with them? 😊
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I've just ordered them home! Will let you know once I've tried them a couple of sessions on the wall 🙂
Thanks for the great video! It was super interesting and informative! i'm approaching my first year mark as an apprentice climber and I was looking into getting new shoes, having only used Decathlon's Rock+ shoes. This video answered to a lot of questions I had about getting new shoes, first of which...yeah..going to a climbing store is definitively a must. Thanks Hannah and James!
Glad you found it informative! I would definitely recommend going in to a store in person and trying on a few different pairs and getting advice. It’s super helpful to speak to somebody who knows all the models inside out.
Hope you end up with a shoe you love 😊
The rock+ are imo the best beginner shoes, because they are affordable, and do their job well up to a certain grade. Good luck with whatever will be your next pair of shoes, you'll probably enjoy them after the break in period, bc let's face it, they will hurt your feet in the beginning ;)
We are glad you liked it
I've seen a ton of shoe sizing videos so I was skeptical of watching yet another one BUT... this was really great! You really explained the PROCESS one should go through for finding a great fitting shoe. Nice job!
Thank you! That means a lot 🥳🥳
Most well-rounded and knowledgeable video on climbing shoes i have seen anywhere, very well done!
Thank you Ian! 🤩
One major point for closure systems is the closure is designed for the purpose of the shoe which is also dictated by the upper, and there are more than three closures. While a Drago, Solution, Instinct, etc., all get labeled as velcro, these are essentially slippers, the velcro tab or strap is meant to secure the heel but not alter the volume of the toe box nor restrict motion while flexing the arch. Similar goes for laces which are offset and not deep into the toe such as the Chimera and Genius, laces because the foot is meant to be heavily compressed but not constrict the toebox much, relying on the tension of the rand, to edge and toe in incredibly well. However, throw the laces further down and the toe box gets constricted, focused mostly on edging as with a TC Pro or Instinct or Miura Lace. Add a few velcro tabs, like the standard Shaman or Miura or Boostic, and what you have is steep edging, especially positive edges, with a blend of toeing in like pocket pulling. This is why the Vapor, Miura, Instinct, Katana, Shaman, etc., don’t have simply a velcro or lace preference, they are different shoes.
My favorite shoe to demonstrate this is the Furia Air. If I gave this any other closure system, I could tear apart the upper of the shoe and contort the entire thing, but something has to snug the whole volume of the shoe to make this adapt well to the foot. Hence, the little Z strap with a velcro tip.
For those worried about easy on and off with velcro… unless you’re one of the few competition climbers who actually bring out and change shoes during attempts, the time difference is irrelevant, and basically every shoe which specializes in competition climbing is a single velcro strap or tab style, anyway, for reasons above.
Stop denying yourself a more useful tool.
Great video. I have extra wide feet: 10.5 EE US, that are hard to fit. Rental shoes were excruciating. I’m also a big guy: 6’1. The point about needing a stiffer shoe for weight was a good insight. I’m finding the scaparra tarantula is going to work really well for me. Thanks!
My first shoes were by Triop and second hand, i learnt quite good foot technique with them, but i climbed through them. I was trying to find well fitting pair of more agressive ones and i tried A LOT of shoes from a lot of brands. I ended up with solution comp. They fit me like a glove and i can finally trust my feet on vertical volumes and while smeering which i was not able to. I am really happy with them, though rn i am trying to find shoes for hard rock in Austria. Thinking of resoling my solutions with harder rubber.
I was so happy to hear him say that it's not a problem to get a technical shoe as a beginner. I have very wide feet so, for example, a lot of La Sportiva models are just too narrow for me. I ended up going with the Testarossa's since those fit my wide feet much better then any other model's I have tried on, eventhough they are much more technical shoes.
What a great informative Video - much love
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video! We also did a climbing shoe comparison video but it was focused on kids shoes (and our production isn't as professional as yours) but we did our best where we are right now to cover all the kids shoes.
Super helpful, thanks
You're welcome!
This is the first time that I've heard a nuanced view on fit and downsizing! Snug, maybe tight, but not painful, all the yes!!!
Best place to get climbing shoes in the Bristol area is banana fingers
thanks to their massive Range and their willingness to let you try on all of the shoes, ended up getting a pair of TENAYA Masai that fit me like a glove
Great job on this video! I have watched like six other videos on the same topic and this is the best one for me! even better than the Adam Ondra video 😀
High praise! Thank you very much 😊
Wow!!
Oh the timing! I just purchased my first pair today - La Sportive Tarantulace in an 8.5/EU 40, and I'm usually a 9-10. I tried on the beginner ones at REI but I settled on that one because I have narrow heels and need the lace closure system to ensure a tight fit there and my toes didn't feel absolutely cramped. Nervous about wear and about the shoe stretching but excited to graduate from rental shoes. Great video!
Great shoe to start, I bought a pair 3-4 months ago when I started climbing and I haven't felt like they've let me down while climbing at all. Comfortable enough to leave them on for a whole session at the gym once you've worn them in a couple times as well!
Very nice! I’ve heard good things about the Tarantulace for a beginner shoe! Hopefully they work for you well and you enjoy climbing in them! 😊
Tarantulas stretch nicely to your foot, a lot of my friends started with them and they are super comfy once you break them in.
I also started in those! They are the perfect starting shoes.. to wear them in, I put them on and off for some time at the office 😉
I'm just about to buy a new pair of climbing shoes because I have had the same ones for 3 years and now they have got a hole in the toe 😂 But I was just very confused about what shape and size but then this video popped up which was just at the perfect time! Thank you for the info and I am always excited for your videos, they are brilliant!! :)
Thanks Evelina, I really appreciate that! Hope the information in the video is helpful for you. 😊
Remember that you can get your shoes resoled, which saves a lot of money and just ensures you make the most out of your gear :) If they had less optimal rubber, you can just put on one you prefer more. Some of mine have been resoled 4 times already, 35 euro's each time, and they climb just as great (La Sportiva Katana).
The right shoe for your foot is one that is snug everywhere evenly. For my weird wide foot with high insteps and small heels, that’s the skwama and the miura vs.
I wish i saw this before buying new shoes yesterday. Went from the tarantula to Katana and stuck with EU 42. I can easily keep the tarantula on for 45mins to an hour no issues, but the katana I had to take off every 10/15.
Those tenayas you tried look really nice! My country is super limited on climbing shoes but as soon as I'm abroad I'm eager to try these 😊
I’ve not had Tenayas ever myself but I’ve only heard good things ☺️
I've had this model for over a year and loved the fit but found the toe rubber too thin for toe hooking. Changed them for Tenaya Mundaka and never looked back.
it's interesting because I have relatively flat/wider feet in the arch area and I've been using my Solutions since late October now so roughly 8 months and I love everything about them. I do primarily indoor rope climbing so they are really good at doing a little bit of everything, I've noticed. They work super well on something like a slab route, but also have that good rubber on the top and the toe box to help with overhangs. at the end of the day, It's what really works for your foot and your climbing style. :)
Also, flat feet are not all the same. In particular some have ‘flexible’ flat feet (me) and others have more rigid feet.
I recently upgraded to better climbing shoes - it's such a game changer! Two things I have learned: 1. There are very different levels to "snug" - ranging from agonizingly tight to snug but still comfortable. You really have to try on the shoe, there's no way to tell the fit just by looking at different shoes on a website. What leads me to 2.: Do a consultation at a local climbing shop. It's soo incredibly helpful to have someone explaining the differences to you and picking the right shoes for you - never would've found my shoes on my own. Red Chili's were the right ones for me and I love them! Hope you'll all find the right ones for you and thank you so much for your video Hannah!
The thumbnail caught my attention. Ocun Bullit, my 4th pair, I use them for indoor boulder/lead, very good shoes, they stick to everything, I have got them really tight, but not painfull. I also have La Sportiva Otaki for outdoor climbing, they are a little bigger in size, so more comfortable for long days.
Nathan wears them occasionally for indoor session and seems to like them! The Otaki has cropped up as a good all day shoe a few times too 😎😊
Love my Otakis as well. I have one pair of Otaki Men and 2 pairs of the women's version with different numbers of resoles.
I love the Otakis for lead climbing and edging. Have done quiet a lot of hard (for me) climbs up to 7c in them. Definitely a pretty comfy shoe for the performance level it provides. Runs wide as well though.
And still a performance shoe, so a Tarantula will obviously be more chill to wear.
I need to say it, because I love them: You gotta have a look at the Scarpa Veloce. They are really comfy and perform incredibly well. The only downside is, that because they are so soft (softer than XS Grip2, but I think not as soft as for example the Drago) they lose rubber incredibly quickly.
Also, one thing maybe worth mentioning for newer climbers: Resoling is a thing. My first Veloce are now on the 3rd or 4th sole and considering they aren't cheap, that's a much better value already.
A part of me wants to get scarpa dragos for the aggressive downturn with higher comfort. On the other hand, I don't feel like the level I climb at justifies it, yet. Oh and they're expensive too.
James had great advice, thanks for the video!
My oversized tarantulaces are comfortable but they twist around my toe when edging. The shoes still work for me, so for a first shoe they've been great and seen on and off use over the past 6 years just now I'm pushing myself into 6B+, 6C they're sometimes a liability.
As for upgrades - no luck as of yet. I thought instinct range would have been good but the pain at a snug fit was unbearable really - interesting to hear that the heel angle contributes to this as it explains why the Vapor lace were better yet still too much for me. I feel like I'm starting to get experienced at bouldering, but my feet are complete rookies in terms of wearing a good shoe haha. A comfortable but correctly sized shoe this weekend is my goal.
Hope your shoe hunting went well :)
Try the Finale, a good but manageable step up from the Tarantulaces (almost the same shape just snugger and pointier). Better rubber (XS Edge rather than Friction).
@@snake_plant that is a great suggestion I was looking for them but never found them in stores! I ended up going with Katanas which are snug without pain on the wall. Some scratchiness at the heel stitching is the only complaint I have, something I can see softening over time.
My foot has a definite issue with Scarpa, and the shoes I tried from Black Diamond and Boreal as well... but I can rest easy now :D
@@itsYiyas good choice - the Katana and Finale are very similar I believe - Katana marginally more downturned and has the P3 to keep that tension so should be fairly good all round. The stitching issue should soften over time (I've had it in the toe before) - if not rub a bit of dental-wax (used for rubbing braces) or the back of a spoon on it. Blister plasters during break-in help! Scarpa are a terrible fit for anyone without huge heels.
I have the Tenaya IATI. I bought over 10 different climbing shoes, and I returned them all. I kept the IATI because they are the most comfortable. Do yourself a favor, try them all before you buy, it is highly subjective.
I definitely could of done with this a week ago before I bought my new shoes and how to go and exchange them due to bad advice I was given!! Awesome content though thank you!
Oh no! Hope you figured out a better option for you. Glad you found the video informative 😊
I'm American, but ethnically I'm like English/Scottish/Irish, and I really felt that "wide front with a narrow heel" thing when I was trying shoes on earlier today. I ended up getting a pair of Sportivas that were on sale because they seemed to fit my foot pretty well, and that happened literal hours before I saw this and learned why 😂
For my first shoes I got la sportiva solutions woman's. Super arch , crunch toes. Got made fun of cause I got the gumbee supreme to be "ironic" on purpose. But I'll tell you what,the most comfortable climbing shoes I've worn yet when it comes to climbing. Had to get used to them, went down a size or size and a half. At first I was like oh crap I messed up. Then I used them, and it was love at first climb.
I think this is a great intro to climbing shoes, thank you Hannah! I would say that the one problem no one really seems to address is that toe boxes are normally better suited to roman feet. As someone who has Greek feet/Morton's toe it took me AGES to find a shoe that was comfortable for me to wear, soft enough for my preferences and suited to female feet (I have lv veloces now). I think this becomes more evident the more advanced and aggressive shoes become, as aggressive shoes are often more assymetrical 😬
Great video, worst timing for me however just purchased my first pair today 😂
Oop, what did you end up going for?
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I ended up going for the Boreal Alphas as an all round beginner pair
great video just starting off ,lots of great info many thanks
Hope you find the info useful 🤗
I was at Outside in Hathersage about a week ago and ended up getting a pair of la sportiva finale’s. Very surreal this video coming out so soon after 😅
Ah no way! It’s such a great store, I could do do much damage to my bank balance in there. 😏
Thanks for shopping with us! Really appreciate it
Great vid Hannah, the guy knows his stuff
Thank you!! Glad you liked it 😊
I've been trying to find my second pair of climbing shoes for a while now. I started out with the La Sportiva Tarantulas and they were a pretty good first shoe, but I didn't fit them too well when I got them. Now that I'm looking, I'm realizing that I hardly fit in any shoes and it's really annoying. I've tried on countless pairs from every brand I can find and there are always some voids or the shoe is just too painful.
The problem I have been having with finding a climbing shoe I love is I have long but low volume feet. If you measure by foot it is a street shoe size us 13. I usually wear 12s so I don’t have to much room slays can lace them up properly. I have been looking for a lv climbing shoe but am having a hard time finding a Lv shoe over a size 45. I have been climbing about three times a week for around 2 years now and have owned three pares of shoes. The first was a Scarpa Helix size 47. It was a great starter shoe super loose fit but I could pull in the laces to get my foot to not move around to much. My second par was Scarpa Veloce size 46. I was am still am obsessed with this shoe the amount of comfort was great you can feel a pebble in these shoes. The problems I had in these shoes was the volume was way to big. I had to tie up the lace strap to even get the closure to fit. I had so much room in the heel and the material was doubled over on the top of my foot. I also started climbing more slab and these shoes are way to soft for small holds. My third pare of shoes is the Scarpa Boost size 45. I have loved these shoes for how stir they are they work great on small hold. The rubber is also nice and grippy much like the veloce. The heel also feels amazing. Similar to the veloce I had to fold over the top fabric but yet still have a lot of room in the heel and the sides of my foot. The worst part of these shoes is the 45 was definitely to small for my. It took my proble three months before I could leave these on between attempts with just a short rest. I ended up cutting the top of my big toe open the second time I wore these shoes. The one shoe that I have tried that I liked and acculy felt like it might fit proper was a Scarpa drago Lv size 44. I got to try these on for a little bit at a shoe demo. I am sure they were very stretched out though
Long story long. It seams like no one has a soft moderately aggressive low volume shoe for someone who "should" be wearing a street shoe size 13. I am debating getting a pare of the instinct vs in 46 to see how they fit but I am willing to bet they will be to much volume.
Side note I live in Indiana in the U.S. we have 0 places that have a large shoe selection from multiple manufacturers with all the sizes.
Tenaya Oasi LV would probably work well! They make them in larger sizes and with Tenaya you would likely size down from your street shoe size (I downsize by 1 to 1.5)
the video provided good insights, especially when you got to the relation of shapes of feet and the shapes of shoes (eg symmetrical vs asymmetrical, volume vs general shape etc). could you maybe get james to do a lecture on that matter or even do (a whole series of :)) reviews for groups of shoe models by one brand resp. different brands, in order to help find a sort of rule system for climbers? at the ending he said he could go on for ages about the subject, and I guess he really should.
my background is that even as a longer time climber I often still can't figure out the differences between different models of one brand as well as the possibilities you have as a climber to find out which brand, or which model of a brand, fits my type of foot and why. in the german space at least there is almost no option to find out about any kind of rules in labels and models in regard to the different foot shapes. it seems you have to try them all on, not only for size reasons.
but since a lot of climbing people don't live in big cities, I find it hard to spend huge amounts of money ordering like five pairs of shoes a time from an online store (because the local shop only offers mainly beginners' shoes and some very standard models for the rest), hoping to learn, and hoping that one fits. which mostly is not the case, as their descriptions aren't anywhere near real useful information on the fit mostly. mostly the descriotions contain the promise that this shoe is the best you are going to get for a certain purpose or purpose group, without any real help.
maybe I am the only climber feeling like this. but I can't imagine that. am really missing a helpful translation from a typical online shoe info - and I consider it content worth watching if you would find that interesting, too :)
You still absolutely have to get the tightest FITTING shoe you can - it has to properly fit your first, though. That means being really tight everywhere, with no discernable pressure points, e.g. toes or heel.
Modern shoes all stretch a LOT (yes, also the ones the manufacturer claims don't stretch at all) and oversized climbing shoes are close to useless.
Of course a salesman might want you to pick oversized shoes first and keep buying smaller ones at his store instead of getting them resoled.
I have the same problem with being "flat footed". The la sportiva tarantula is super comfortable, anything else is just pain. I've been wearing otaki at the moment and my session lasts 1h to 1.5h or I have to take them off between problems. The internet isn't really providing any answers as to different foot shapes except for: Just try on lots of stuff. Well I did, and they all hurt except the tarantula. (and I reckon the mythos). I might look into tenaya mastia then.
The Sportiva Finale is also flat - similar profile to Tarantula/ce but slightly more pointed/technical and with a better fit and rubber quality.
@@snake_plant thanks, i basically need that shoe but with gripp rubber 🤣
@@wijn1008 Evolv Kronos is flat and fairly sticky/soft. Otherwise you are really looking at the the FiveTen or Unpararallel shoes (even their stiff rubbers are nearly as sticky as XS Grip).
Have you tried Scarpa Veloce? I went from Tarantulas to those as although they're a completely different shoe the softness means they're super comfy and they adjust to the shape of your foot well.
I'm a 'beginner' climber and had to buy my 2nd pair of shoes, because i forgot my old ones somewhere. 🤦♂ They were the cheapest ones and i like them. At the time i didn't know if i wanted to keep on climbing and also i had no idea what a good climbing shoe is. (if such a concept exists) So i let the price decide. Anyway... i did the same with my 2nd pair, just went to the general sport store and grabbed the cheapest pair i could find. Only this time, my big toe nails turn blue after a good session of climbing. What i think the problem is, is the top rubber which is quite hard and thick and it's only covering around the big toe area, quite small. So everytime i stand on a small hold (on my toe) the shoe bends a bit and the hard rubber pushes on my big nail.
I still have no idea which 'type' of shoe to buy, but perhaps i should invest a little bit more in the shoe. And i will definitely be paying more attention to the top toe area of the shoe. Aiming mainly for better comfort. (a better design, unlike my current ones)
Great video! My advice would be get to a great shop like Outside with a big range and experts to help you FIT the shoe rather then listen to marketing and "experts" online that don't have any idea of how climbing shoes actually work. A high performance climbing shoe that is well fitted is a delight to climb in , on the hand a poorly made climbing shoe will make you and your climbing suffer. Choose your own destiny , good foot work is forever ;)
you know you're binging on bouldering videos ( my new passion) when the commercial before the video is about a climbing documentary hahahah
Love that!
I got my current shoes from a guy who bought them, but they were too small for him, so he sold them for cheap. They're also a bit small for me (hotspots on some of my toe knuckles) but they're slowly adapting, and I saved so much money 😂
That’s lucky! One man’s loss is another’s gain 🥲 - I feel like if they’re manageable pain wise, you’re good. They don’t have to be your ‘all day wear’ shoe and they’ll last you for a long time 😊
Exactly! And I bought them before my comfy beginner shoes wore out, so I can wear those on chill days 👌
what an expert - great to see
Thank you for the video! I have recently gone through a pair of Miura's in around 3-4 months because of the dragging issue that you mentioned where the top of the shoe got destroyed. Is there any way I could train my technique to overcome this issue? I am aware of the need for precise foot placement but dragging also feels like an inherent part of certain climbing moves, especially when it comes to slabs.
You’re welcome! Glad it was useful. I think I’d agree that some amount of scraping your shoe just comes with the territory, but if you’re wearing through shoes faster than you’d like because of it, I’d recommend incorporating quiet feet drills to drill in slowing down your feet as you approach holds so you can place them effectively. I remember doing a video with a coach around a year ago where he attached a ring of keys to my shoe and every time they jangled I got a penalty - really made me realise how clumpy my footwork can be when I’m not paying attention!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering sounds like a good idea. I will definitely try to include more quitet feet type drills in my training. Thanks for the response :)
What were the all-round shoes you name around 19:48? I couldn’t quite make it out.
Like it because I have Ocun bullit, comfortable shoes 👍🏼
I just got my first climbing shoes 3 months ago and so far I love them for myself, I got the La Sportiva Zenit. I've got one question though: I've been climbing a lot and obviously feet sweat so the shoes are getting kinda stinky, can I wash them somehow?? or what do I do to not make them smell horrible??
Good question. To be honest, my shoes aren’t the freshest smelling but I use Smellwell inserts after a climbing session if I remember, which is rarely! You can also get BootBananas which are a similar thing. I also see people at the gym using the same shoe spray that gyms use to spray down their rentals!
A really effective way to avoid shoes smelling is socks (to the point that they still smell new like four months after buying them). I know it is controversial but I dont feel less precise with it at all since my shoes are properly downsized.
I have a very long second toe (Morton’s toe) and I have never found a climbing shoe that fits really well. Either my long toe is doubled up (super painful) or there is so much space left by my big toe that edging is loose.
My country doesn't have stores where I can try on Climbing Shoes. Any tips on how to buy the first Climbing Shoes online?
I've been struggling to find a good shoe for my foot (got a wide foot with a small heel) so it's hard to find a shoe that doesn't have a bunch of dead space in my heel or have a squished heel whenever I heel hook.
Anyone got any recommendations for my foot?
And yoooo those t-shirts look great! Any options to ship to the US?
Edit: Also what an incredible selection on display! I wish I lived near a shop like this.
We ship to the US through our Squarespace link 🥳
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Sounds great! Looking forward to seeing the shirts back in stock, thanks!
@@thesii213 hopefully in the next couple of weeks 😊
Best shop ever!
Agreed!
Thank you so much! 💓
Hanna we need more stock of your white tshirt, I was going to buy it and it was sold out 😭😭❤❤
Hi! Really great to hear you like the white tee. We have a restock on the way! I’ll announce here when we have them back in stock but you can also sign up for notifications on the website when they do come back in!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Thank you so much!!!!
What a really great video! So informative, exhaustive and detailed!
Unfortunately English is not my first language and I have some issues understanding James' accent, especially when he talks about the most interesting, nitty gritty details as he starts to speak fast and I cannot catch what he says even after several rewinds :( I am so frustrated to not understand what he says 😢
Please, it would be so awesome and helpful to have a reliable script of this conversation as the youtube automatically generated one is also completely lacking :'( (sometimes very funny bad interpretations though XD)
Up on the right hand side of the video there should be a little button with "cc". Press that and you should get subtitles. Just make sure subtitles are turned on in Settings.
My struggle with my shoes are the heels. My scarpa fit fine for the toes but the heel is empty so heelhooks are ... bad. I love the softness of the veloce but the heel is really not small enough for my foot. How do I find shoes with smaller heels?
Scarpa have huuuge heels as a brand - I only fit their Dragos which are too narrow at the front, the rest are awful on me. Very soft so maybe worth a try from the Veloce? I've found some models of Sportiva, Unpararallel and Tenaya (just not the Mastia/indalo) and then most Evolv have smaller heels. Always worth trying the women's/LV version too.
@@snake_plant thank you! I'll try to check those out
i think about Skwama’s and my husband really wants to try Ocun Bullit..both are on thumbnail, is this sign????🤣🤣
1000% 🔮
Climbed through 8 pairs of the ocun ozone. Best allronder for MY bouldering sessions.
Even have a pair with the old rockpillars logo :)
@@alexanderhilsendegen3307 I’ve never tried Ocun but heard great things - another brand to add to the to-try list ☺️🥲
With climbingshoes it is allways pretty subjective. It is worth trying new models from time to time... it's amazing how much confidence comes with a well fitting shoe! Even without the pain 😉
Btw: great channel, great content and a great community! Keep up the amazing Work!
my first pair is the mythos comfy as hell but didn't trust the toe getting into the more intermediate climbs. 3 pairs later, more trust in the feet now and ran a hole through the rand. Weird.
I wonder if because now that you trust your feet to place more pressure / force through the rubber you’re finding you go through them now and not before? Funny how your climbing style can show in your shoes!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Oh no that was simply wear & tear. It had a tiny hole before the resole. Whilst my newest pair was getting a resole, I was using it again and became more confident with it then ever before which is unusual because I was always terrified edging on small holds with it.
Does anyone know where I can go to try on shoes with knowledgeable people to help near Edinburgh
Last week at the gym someone lent me a pair of shoes because mine are too basic and big now. When I put them on I thought “Wow! they look like they were made for my foot!” and climbing with those was another wow. I went to the store to try on the same model and size and damn, they looked like a medieval torture device!! Depression! 😢
I just wish I had a good climbing shoe store in New England…. Buying online is sooooo hard with climbing shoes
OK what? Opened youtube to look up reviews and this shows up!
A sign 😏 - hope you find the video informative! 🥳
One thing I realized by resoling my shaman's was the original rubber was so much better and unfortunately the original is not an option at least in Spain.
So I have a perfectly fitting shoe with xs grip 2 I think worsening my experience.
Oh no! That's a shame. I've never resoled shoes before - aside from the rubber issue, would you recommend? It's something I've been considering :)
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I also have the unparallel flagship. When it comes to comfort they are top. I was super happy before resoling.
Unparallel are ok but don't think I would buy them again. Probably would try another evolv.
But not sure over the women version of them. Ps...
Was hoping for a more women shoes centric video :)
I wanna 3d print my own shoes!
I may be wrong, but I have never heard of an instinct vs low volume.
oh mannn the struggle to find a flat footed, high volume forefoot, and low volume heel.....
Are you me? Thought I was the only one 😅
You and Lattice synched really xD
Yes! What are the chances?!
Not having the best CZcams luck recently, really 😅
@@hannahmorrisbouldering great minds think alike. We should collab soon 🔥
That would be mega - let’s do it! 😎
You guys got a Scientology ad on your video, you should complain to CZcams for putting a harmful/misleading ad
Eek! Thanks for letting me know
Ouch, shoes are expensive.
exactly one week late, dammit!
Noooooo - hopefully useful for your next upgrade! 😊
There is so much more to think about when considering my second pair of shoes, holy guacamole that was a lot of info! This video was fuckin awesome, thanks for creating it!
I’ve been rockin the Butora Endeavors, and honestly, my only complaint is the heal; it’s soft and thin, makes aggressive heal hooks in the V5’s and up kinda painful. But they’ve been really sticky, great on my outdoor climbs (sandstone), just enough rubber on top for some sweet bat hangs, really comfortable to wear, and I only paid $100 for em. Oh, and after seven months of climbing they still aren’t blown out!
Hannah stepping into my shoe/gear territory, im offended 🥲 haha. Great vid as always