I would definitely recommend doing so by 60k miles. It can be difficult to tell when they actually do break. You’ll get some conflicting codes. I wasn’t even sure if that was the issue when I decided to change these components. I just gambled that it may have something to do with the codes. Only after I took everything off did I realize both sides had failures even though there were no codes related to the other bank. The M feels great again after changing these parts out though.
@@ModestlyMinted Mine is definitely over due. The mechanic said that the left hose needs to be replaced because it is leaking. I will do both hoses and the boot. Dealer is going to charge a lot so will be doing it myself. I ordered the parts.
@@ModestlyMinted my car is in building proper boost. Do you think this is the problem? I just checked my pipes and they’re both broken no engine codes.
@@tysni3781 I’d definitely replace them along with the ventilation hoses. Mine had codes, but even if it didn’t you could feel it was pulling as well as it did before. It felt sluggish. After I changed those pieces it’s back to feeling good again.
I also want to note that you NEED TO disconnect your battery before this job. There is a positive power rail under the drivers side intake tube. Also putting in the center bolts is best achieved via a very long extension and just going in through the front hole/wire/tube mess, just easily finagle it through. Rachet > extension > wire mess > swivel > torx bit
I’m not sure what years yours is, but there was very much something attached underneath that the bolts were securing to and I don’t mean the rail that runs across. You can see at 3:45 when I move the box there are silver rings that move with it. Those were under the box and the bolts secured whatever piece that is to the rail that runs across. I did this without unhooking the battery. I’m aware of the live wire and mention it in the video. From a safety standpoint it’s recommended to remove the battery, but not required. I didn’t have the software to relearn it, so it wasn’t worth the trouble for me. I had something between it to insulate it while working. Everyone else is welcome to work at whatever risk they’re comfortable with.
@@ModestlyMinted czcams.com/video/IfrSePWBZp0/video.html I am not supporting this guys method of removal but as you can see its not bolted in, it just held with some push in fittings.
Have you got any advice on how to rotate the hose to where the tab is when hose bridge is in the way? I am not sure how to move the bridge, looks like you did. I removed the Torx on the driver's side but it seems pretty unmovable, don't want to break anything. Are there other screws I need to remove? I can't get hoses off on both left and right sides because the bridge is blocking it. I am a relative newbie at this. Thanks!
If by “the bridge” you are referring to that black piece on top then iirc there are 4 screws that need removed. Then you can just push it out of your way to give you more room. Be careful when removing the screws closest to the firewall because it’s a tight fit and they’re easy to drop. If you look around the 7 minute mark you can see I have an empty oil bottle wedged between there to keep it out of my way when I was replacing the CCV hoses. You can also kind of see some of the other stuff I removed to get more room to work.
Any advice on how to get the passenger side Torx under the hose in? There is no room with the complete part and I dropped screw once (rescued it). I was able to get driver side in by reaching though that isn't an option with both connected. This is the last major thing the rest should be easy.. Do i need a magnetic Torx bit and a swivel?
@@possenus I can’t remember for sure, but I think I used either a swivel ratchet or a torx key(like an allen key, but torx heads) to get it started. I also had a step ladder and stood with one foot on that and another on the structural brace in the engine bay so I wouldn’t have to reach much. Also never tighten the other bolts down fully until all bolts are in and started. Make sure they’re in there enough that they won’t back out, but they need to be loose enough that you have some play in the bridge to get everything aligned.
That you very much I don’t order the small hoses
Thanks need to do this on mine.
I would definitely recommend doing so by 60k miles. It can be difficult to tell when they actually do break. You’ll get some conflicting codes. I wasn’t even sure if that was the issue when I decided to change these components. I just gambled that it may have something to do with the codes. Only after I took everything off did I realize both sides had failures even though there were no codes related to the other bank. The M feels great again after changing these parts out though.
@@ModestlyMinted Mine is definitely over due. The mechanic said that the left hose needs to be replaced because it is leaking. I will do both hoses and the boot. Dealer is going to charge a lot so will be doing it myself. I ordered the parts.
@@ModestlyMinted my car is in building proper boost. Do you think this is the problem? I just checked my pipes and they’re both broken no engine codes.
@@tysni3781 I’d definitely replace them along with the ventilation hoses. Mine had codes, but even if it didn’t you could feel it was pulling as well as it did before. It felt sluggish. After I changed those pieces it’s back to feeling good again.
Both Bolts in Airbox @ 1:15 don't need to be removed, they aren't even attached to the airbox.
I also want to note that you NEED TO disconnect your battery before this job. There is a positive power rail under the drivers side intake tube. Also putting in the center bolts is best achieved via a very long extension and just going in through the front hole/wire/tube mess, just easily finagle it through. Rachet > extension > wire mess > swivel > torx bit
I’m not sure what years yours is, but there was very much something attached underneath that the bolts were securing to and I don’t mean the rail that runs across. You can see at 3:45 when I move the box there are silver rings that move with it. Those were under the box and the bolts secured whatever piece that is to the rail that runs across. I did this without unhooking the battery. I’m aware of the live wire and mention it in the video. From a safety standpoint it’s recommended to remove the battery, but not required. I didn’t have the software to relearn it, so it wasn’t worth the trouble for me. I had something between it to insulate it while working. Everyone else is welcome to work at whatever risk they’re comfortable with.
@@ModestlyMinted czcams.com/video/IfrSePWBZp0/video.html I am not supporting this guys method of removal but as you can see its not bolted in, it just held with some push in fittings.
Have you got any advice on how to rotate the hose to where the tab is when hose bridge is in the way? I am not sure how to move the bridge, looks like you did. I removed the Torx on the driver's side but it seems pretty unmovable, don't want to break anything. Are there other screws I need to remove? I can't get hoses off on both left and right sides because the bridge is blocking it. I am a relative newbie at this. Thanks!
If by “the bridge” you are referring to that black piece on top then iirc there are 4 screws that need removed. Then you can just push it out of your way to give you more room. Be careful when removing the screws closest to the firewall because it’s a tight fit and they’re easy to drop. If you look around the 7 minute mark you can see I have an empty oil bottle wedged between there to keep it out of my way when I was replacing the CCV hoses. You can also kind of see some of the other stuff I removed to get more room to work.
@@ModestlyMinted ah ok I didn't see screws near firewall. Thanks!
Any advice on how to get the passenger side Torx under the hose in? There is no room with the complete part and I dropped screw once (rescued it). I was able to get driver side in by reaching though that isn't an option with both connected. This is the last major thing the rest should be easy.. Do i need a magnetic Torx bit and a swivel?
@@possenus I can’t remember for sure, but I think I used either a swivel ratchet or a torx key(like an allen key, but torx heads) to get it started. I also had a step ladder and stood with one foot on that and another on the structural brace in the engine bay so I wouldn’t have to reach much. Also never tighten the other bolts down fully until all bolts are in and started. Make sure they’re in there enough that they won’t back out, but they need to be loose enough that you have some play in the bridge to get everything aligned.
@@ModestlyMinted Thanks. ordered some Torx Allen wrenches. can never have too many tools.