Laguna Fusion F1 Table Saw Deep Dive Examination
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- čas přidán 24. 12. 2019
- Laguna has recently introduced a new hybrid table saw; the Fusion F1. Laguna provided a demo unit of this saw for evaluation purposes. The table saw has a lot of cool features like a fully integrated, standard above table dust collection system, 1.5 HP TEFC motor, magnetic switch, and enclosed stand. Here I do a deep dive examination of the Fusion F1 table saw, examining all key features and putting the Fusion F1 Table saw through its paces.
- Jak na to + styl
Thanks for the reviews!
This helped me decide on this saw over a couple others, not too mention a lot of them are back ordered at the moment!
I do have a small work space, so mobility is key for me.
This will be my first quality table saw. Just made the order today, really looking forward to using it.
Thanks for your feedback, Joshua. Enjoy your new saw!
My Laguna F1 is on it's way. The unboxing and deep dive videos are really helpful and will make set-up a snap. Thanks!
Awesome Sharon, thanks! Enjoy your new table saw.
Thanks for reviewing a Laguna!
My pleasure, Rich. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the review, got mine today, the assembly manual is printed too small making it hard to read, they also missed the cabinet bottom plate install. So far works great.
Glad to hear that it's working well. Hopefully they can get that manual updated.
I really wish they had an option for a 50" fence! So far, this saw tops my list! A home depot RIGID pro saw isn't much less, but this things looks like a true pro quality machine for just $250 more! Between this and Grizzly!
Decisions, decisions. 😀 Good luck with your purchase, whichever way you go.
Great videos on the unboxing and the deep dive. I am considering a hybrid saw, and this information is really helpful.
Near the end of this video, I noticed that you demonstrated wheeling the saw around with the optional wheel kit. Could you comment a little on that experience? Was it relatively easy to do (seemed so)? Is the recommended method to use the fence rails like handles of a wheelbarrow? Thanks.
Hi Ed, yep, it’s very easy to move. The concern you raise is a good one. It didn’t seem to stress the fence rails so I wouldn’t hesitate to do it. If the rail fasteners are loose you will have a problem but otherwise I think it’s fine. But that’s my perspective and Laguna engineers might feel differently. On the F1 if you lifted by the wing it would still stress the rails, although not as much.
Great job! Looking forward to my fusion 1 arriving today! Any recommendation on table saw sleds?
Thanks, Frank. I don't have a "real" table saw sled, but I keep thinking about getting or making one. I currently use a VERY simple panel sled, which does most of what I need. For a real sled, I'd be somewhat tempted to get this one, although it's kinda spendy: amzn.to/2RExtly. For a shopmade option, I kinda like Laney's design: czcams.com/video/-GdTU9St--Q/video.html . Hope you like the saw. Let me know what you think of it.
Great, informative and precise
Can u compare the different models vs each other F1, F2 and F3
Hi Faris, Sure. F1 is essentially a contractor's saw. Somewhat portable, but not as portable as an actual portable table saw. Gives you the power of a shop saw with enough portability to move it from site to site. The F2 is a stationary saw. The added weight of cast iron wings makes it so that you will want to leave it in one place. The motor is an upgrade in power and quality. The fence is an upgrade in that it gives you the Euro style capabilities that I demonstrated in the video. The F3 is a true cabinet saw. 3 HP, 220 volt power, full cast iron trunnion. Much heavier machine, suitable for a production cabinet shop. For contractors, the F1 is probably the right saw. For most small shop hobbyist woodworkers, the F2 is likely in the sweet spot. Professionals will likely opt for the F3 for the upgraded performance.
Thanks for the great review! Like many, space is at an absolute premium. It looks like this unit would be pretty easy to mount on a custom built mobile cart instead of the supplied base to reclaim some storage space below. Did you see anything that may raise concerns in mounting this way?
Hi Dennis, that’s a great idea and I can’t think of any reason why you would not love it. You could store a lot under there.
Great videos! Thank you for the review. As someone who is new to woodworking, i'm looking into get my first table saw. Would you recommend the F1 over the F2 for a beginner? Price isn't really an issue between the two of them. If you have any other recommendations I would appreciate that as well.
Thank you. If the saw will primarily remain stationary, and you can deal with the price uplift, I believe that the F2 is a better value. Cast iron wings and built in wheels are a nice upgrade, plus an upgraded trunion design and motor. And also, the fence on the F1 is good quality, but I LOVE the Euro fence design on the F2.
Thanks for you review. I really appreciate the tip on running it on a 20 amp breaker. I saw your reply below on the overall differences between the F1, F2 and F3. I was comparing the F1 and F2. The F2 seems to be built more robust. A couple of questions. Can you be more specific on the differences in quality or features between the F1 and F2? Does the F2 accept the wheels to make it similarly mobile as the more contractor oriented F1? For my use, I would plan to store the saw against the wall, table wings and fence disassembled to reduce required storage space. When I need it, pull it out into the garage where I normally park my truck and assemble the wings and fence for use. Which one would be more efficient for my use?
Hi Jack, main difference is features includes Euro fence, integrated wheels, cast iron wings, more power. Neither of these saws would be good for what you are describing. You don't want to re-install the wings on either of these saws each time you use it. Way too much hassle. If you are cramped on space, the F1 has a smaller footprint due to the shorter fence rails. But, if you don't have a room for the F1 with the wings installed, I'd look at getting a portable saw that you can hang on the wall for space savings. That wouldn't be in the same class of saw as either of these units, but you would be much better off doing this than having to reinstall wings.
Just ordered this saw. Waiting on it to be shipped.
Awesome Mike. What was the deciding factor for you? Let me know what you think of the saw. Cheer, Paul
@@ToolMetrix your video was helpful for sure. Also the price point for a saw like this with the features is great. I'll definitely let you know what I think.
I want one!
I don’t blame you! 😉
Great in-depth review as always. The question I have has nothing to do with this saw but, I was wondering if you could do a review of the Ridgid 10 in. Cast Iron Table Saw
R4512 ? I am looking at getting my first table saw and I really like the Ridgid cordless tools I have and was thinking about this saw as my first. Thanks and keep up the great content. Merry Chirstmas.
Hi John, I got one of those for my Dad a few years back, unfortunately before I was on CZcams so I didn’t make a video. It’s a nice saw. They are famously a royal pain to setup and my experience was no exception. They have decent power but not as much power as the Laguna F1, as far as my dad’s saw anyway. His might have a problem though. After I set it up it ran poorly. Like almost no power. A 3/4” pine board would stop it in its tracks. After spending four frustrating hours setting it up I wasn’t sure how I would deal with this situation so I took a break for lunch and I left the saw running the whole time. When I returned to the saw 30 minutes later and made some cuts it worked fine and has ever since. But I don’t know if the power that it has today is as much as it should have. It’s certainly adequate though. I’d say that the design is similar to the F1 but the build quality is generally lower. But for it’s price it’s a very nice saw in my opinion. They sold that saw for years at $550 and I always felt that they could have gotten more. I noticed recently that they’ve raised it to $750 around here which seems like the right price point for the saw.
I had problems with the Ridgid table saws I went through. You can’t complain about the price of the r4512, so I completely agree with Tool metrix. Also yes, setting up those cheaper cast iron saws ended up not being worth the hassle, headache and still the lack of performance, at least in my own case that is. A friend of mine got the cheaper delta saw, the one at Lowes, and it was a pain to get running close to true as well. When you at least get up into the low 1000$ range, although you’re not stepping up to a high end professional performance machine, you are definitely stepping well into a higher level than those more affordable ones. So at around 750$, if you can just scrounge another 300-400$, you’d be so glad that you did for what you’ll get. I ended up with Jet’s comparable saw to this laguna and after some fussing, it runs and cuts excellent. In the end, whatever one can afford, that gets you into the world of table saws is all that matters though. Good luck. Becoming a table saw owner was actually a significant point in my life, in fact changing my life and I think most saw users would also agree.
@@82camino96 Thanks for your great commentary on this. In particular I love this part of your comment: "Becoming a table saw owner was actually a significant point in my life, in fact changing my life ". I can't agree with you more. Although it was 23 years and 33 days ago for me (yes, it was that significant!) I remember the day like it was yesterday. I saved up and bought the best saw that I could afford, but even at that, it was not a very good saw. :) It was a direct drive and it was SO LOUD! But it had a cast iron top, and worked fine. I used it for about 6-7 years and built a lot of furniture with it. Your point about it changing your life was also true in my case. It opened up a whole new world to me, which I've been heavily immersed in ever since. Cheers!
Looks like a pretty nice saw, Paul. I wonder about the effectiveness of the overhead dc when it's connected to the 4" dust pipe.
Hi Charlie, I'd say it's decent 'out of the box', and it's really intended as an inexpensive "plug and play" setup for people who don't want to mess with it. The hose going to the shroud underneath the table lets you get better collection with less CFM compared to my older cabinet saw where I have a 6" pipe going to the back of the cabinet but it has to collect from the entire cabinet. There would be ways to improve it for sure. If I was going to set this saw up permanently in my shop I would run a 6" hard pipe and reduce using a 6" x 4" x 4" wye. I'd connect one branch of the wye to the back of the saw, and I'd run 4" flex from the other one ideally all the way to the blade guard, and reduce it right at that point to the 1.5" connection on the blade guard housing. If that proved to be too clunky, I would run 4" flex to point where the flex hose tethers to the fence, and tether the 4" hose at that point. Then I would eliminate half of the 1.5" flex and run that to the guard. I would also install three blast gates in the system. One gate on the 6" line to switch the air flow on and off on a regular basis, and the other two would be 4" gates on each trunk of the wye to optimize the balance of air flow between the two branches. I would find the right balance for those and just leave them open at that setting.
Hi Paul! Appreciate your video on the F1. Curious as to what DC system you running? So much mixed experiences out there with this saw.
Hi there, and thanks for watching. I'm running an Oneida cyclone, 5 HP. I can't remember if that's what I was running when I made the F1 video. I switch it up a lot because I like testing out different dust collection systems. Cheers, Paul
I just got mine the other week and am loving it so far but have one question. Is there a lock for the blade tilt?
I believe that the knob on the front of the hand wheel locks the tilt into position.
Thank you very much for the video... I am considering ordering this myself, but I understand this is backordered for months. Anyway... in your judgment, what is the risk of the table bowing downwards under the weight of the motor? I have seen a number of tablesaws where the table curves downwards after a few years, making it untenable for precise cuts. I understand the mechanical design of the cast iron table can reduce the risk somewhat.
This has been a problem for table saws of this style, but I believe that the heavy ribbing on the underside of the table should prevent it. That said, I won't have a chance to test this over time. The F1 has been around a long time, and nothing about the new design should affect this aspect, so I'd suggest checking around on some forums (Lumberjocks, etc.) to see if anyone has had problems with this. If the problem exists, you can bet that people will be talking about it online. Also worth checking out the Laguna user group page on FB for this type of stuff. Very vocal group there as well.
Thank you for the review. What most narrow rip cut you can do with the blade guard and dust collection hose on? 3/4”?
Thank you. Unfortunately I don't remember that. This jig allows you to rip as thin as you want with the guard in place: czcams.com/video/Sd8KLMYNQ5w/video.html . I use mine all the time.
For equals in comparisons I think the Harvey is going to give this saw a run for it's money. Oh did I say that? Tool test on the horizon? Very nice saw and hope to see in depth on the following 2 (3) .
Hi Gary, I hadn’t heard much about Harvey until recently and now they’re coming up all the time. I really need to get my hands on one some of their gear. Yep I’m starting to tear into the F2 tomorrow. It’s sitting in my shop now and I’m chomping at the bit to rip the crate off of it. 😀
@@ToolMetrix Buy the camera man a beer just don't ask him to hold the camera LOL
Hi, more questions: If I want to use a thin kerf blade on this saw, would the overhead dust collection setup mess it up? The system appears to be installed in the socket for the riving knife... and I suspect it is sized to work with full kerf blades, right? Also, does the system allow you to use a zero clearance throat plate with the overhead dust collection setup?
I don’t believe that a thin kerf blade would cause any problems. I didn’t try it but they sell a thin kerf riving knife so it seems that is part of the design. I don’t know why the overhead dust collection couldn’t be used with a zero clearance throat plate.
Thank you for this video. I'm in the market to upgrade my table saw and trying to stay under $1000, so this is very helpful. My Rigid R4513 is poor quality. Everything is cheap plastic and it's a nightmare trying to keep everything squared up to make consistent accurate cuts. How well did the blade and fence line up out of the box? Was everything squared up or did it require a lot of adjusting to get it accurate?
Thanks, Brian. The blade alignment to miter slots required a tweak. If I recall it was out of alignment by about .007", and I was able to get it down to about .001-.002". I think that I've made at least some adjustment on every table saw that I've ever set up. It's easier on the F2 and F3 but it's not that hard here. The main thing to be aware of is that there are three screws per trunion, rather than 2 which is more common. That's why I pointed it out in the video. Once you know where the screws are, it's pretty straightforward to tweak if you have to.
Thank you for the reply. Did the fence require any adjustment?
I've narrowed my choice down to this one (Laguna) or the Craftex CX212. Any thoughts? I really like the dust collection on this one.
Hi Klemm, unfortunately I’m not familiar with the Craftex so I’m not able to offer any comparisons.
Hello, excellent review. I am wonder if the F1 can be converted from 110v to 220v? I just purchased the F1. I am also putting together a new workshop and deciding whether I should install 220v circuit . I will at minimum put in a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Thank you.
Hi Sunny, yes it can. It requires this conversion kit. www.shop.lagunatools.com/F1_-_F2_conversion-kit-110v-to-220v
Try out a Hammer or Felder panel saw. While they don't have Sawstop's safety mechanism they blow everything else out of the water in terms of precision, options and modularity.
I’ve looked at a felder and they are really impressive. Extremely well made. I think they would be great for cabinet makers but cumbersome for furniture makers, which is more what I do. I also think that they require more space than I could devote to a saw.
…and price
Great point
Thank you for the very detailed review. Before I watched your video, I'm all set to get the Dewalt DWE7491RS for $599. If by any chance you have experience about the Dewalt DWE7491RS, do you think it would be better for me to buy this Fusion 1 over the Dewalt? My most concern is on the accuracy and stability of the fence, which I heard that the Dewalt has. But I like the table size of this saw and sounds very solid and quieter than most contractor saw. BTW I am a regular DIYer but my hobby is woodworking. I have made a some shelves, coffee tables, TV Stand, ... and I'm planning to build cabinets, that's why i want to buy a decent table saw. Please advise. Thank you in advance and more power to your channel!
I don't have any personal experience with the DeWalt saw. That is a job-site saw, so not really a good comparison. If you require extreme portability, and the ability to hang the saw on your wall when not in use, that type of saw is a great option. I've used a Bosch job site saw and was impressed with what it could do. But if you want shop stability, cast iron top, ability to use a full width dado stack, large table size, etc., then F1 is a good option. If you are looking for a job site saw, then I'd suggest comparing the DeWalt to other options in that category. Unfortunately the comparable Bosch looks like it was discontinued. Shame, because that was a sweet saw. I believe that Ridgid has a decent one. If you want a saw that will be primarily located permanently in your shop, then I'd suggest doing comparisons against other saws in the F1 category such as SawStop, Delta, Ridgid, etc. In that category, I believe that the F1 delivers a lot of features at a good value point. The SawStop has the unique flesh sensing technology, so if your budget allows, that is a good option as well.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the quick reply! I think I would go for stability and large table size and the dado capability. So I'll narrow down my choices to the Ridgid, Delta, and the F1. Which one would you choose if you're on my shoes? Again, sorry for my ignorance on this kind of saws. Never used them before.
Can you tell me how far the shroud on the left side sticks out past the edge of the center cast iron top? Was thinking of using this with the Incra positioner system.
Hi Lee, sorry but I no longer have this saw in my shop.
@@ToolMetrix ok, thanks guess I'll try their website
!!!!!!(((((((If any of the manufacturers are watching))))))!!!!!! I as so many have very limited space I need 30” of rip less than once a year. If I could remove the extra portion of fence that would mean the world. I would gladly add it when needed.
Great suggestion. Thank you for sharing it here!
I'm considering this saw for my home workshop, but I have one doubt which you didn't cover in the video. How do you fix the blade tilt after you adjusted it? There's no locking knob on the tilt wheel
Sorry I don’t recall how this is done. It’s been a while since this saw was in my shop.
Just got mine today and had a question...where are you storing your blade guard when not in use? I have a few empty spots on the tool storage side but can't figure out if it's meant for the guard
I don't think that there's on board storage for the blade guard. I wouldn't put it away too far, just so that you're more inclined to reinstall it right away when you're done with your riving knife operation.
ToolMetrix I typically use it without the blade guard as I find it just gets in the way more often than not but maybe I'll try to use it more!
@@cb03cd I think that's true of a lot of people, including me with my Unisaw (but that guard is a PITA). At least use the riving knife, as that should prevent most kickback accidents. But if you can get into the habit of using the blade guard whenever possible, you'll be better off. I think they've done a good job of making it easier to install and remove on this saw, so that makes it more likely that people will use it.
ToolMetrix I always use a riving knife for sure. You are right about installation of the blade guard, its very easy. Really like the dust collection aspect as well! Only dislike I have so far is that the steel wings and other aluminum bits seem to scratch very easily.
I have a new F1 and I discovered that the motor assembly has about an 8 thou side to side motion at the riving knife end. You can test this by pressing sideways on the riving knife release leaver. It’s not just my saw, the demo saw at the dealership has it and Laguna’s customer support told me that saws on their floor have it also. They offered me no explanation for this. I looked at an F3 and it did not have that flex. Do you think this will affect the accuracy of cuts?
I didn’t notice it on the one that I had here. It could cause a cut quality problem. You should know after a few cuts. Put a good quality blade on the saw for a fair test.
Have you used the Dewalt 7491? I have that saw and it has the same motor ratings, overhead dust collection as well as 2 1/2 port in the back. The fence on it is rock sold and extremely accurate. It has a 32” rip capacity.
This saw has a very nice, much larger table top, but I am wondering what the benefit would be to me if I bought this saw. Appreciate any feedback, thanks!
Hi Steve, Yes, I did a Deep Dive on the Dewalt job site saw: czcams.com/video/_JYoxJ82PMA/video.html. That's a sweet saw. In terms of the differences between the two, I think the Dewalt is a rock star for portability. Compact size, lightweight, and man the innovation they have added to that saw for extending functionality in a small footprint is remarkable. The F1 has a more robust architecture, more substantial trunnions, and I love the stability of cast iron. If you didn't already have a Dewalt, I'd make the recommendation like this. If you have to travel around with the saw at all, get a job site saw. The F1 is *sort of* portable, but I wouldn't want to move it very often. When you had to move it, it's a lot easier than moving a true cabinet saw, and you could do it by yourself but it wouldn't be much fun. If you are in tight quarters, and can't afford to dedicate a permanent footprint to a table saw, then a job site saw is the better choice because you can hang it on the wall or tuck it underneath a bench. But if you don't move the saw much, and can afford to dedicate some footprint to a saw, then a contractor's saw like the F1 is a better choice IMO because I believe it will hold its adjustments better, and I like the fence and large table space better. But, since you already have a DeWalt, if you are now in a situation where you can devote a spot in your shop and leave it permanently setup, it might be worth investing in setting up a workstation where you would build rear and side extensions for the Dewalt, and maximize what you can do with it. For you, moving to the F1 would be more of a horizontal move than an upgrade, with some advantages as noted. If you want an upgrade, and have the space for it, you'd probably be better to look at something in the class of the F2, where the cast iron wings, and fence upgrade would be more noteworthy upgrades.
@@ToolMetrix
Thank you for your comprehensive analysis! As a frame of reference I am a hobbyist woodworker. When I bought the saw, I was still working and had 2 cars in the garage. I needed to move a car out so I could set up the table saw, so, to your point, I needed the mobility. I retired almost a year ago and ended up selling the car I commuted to work in so I have a dedicated space for woodworking. For the last several months I have been thinking of upgrading to a contractor saw but saw it as a “lateral move”, as you said. There is vibration on my saw and I totally get the more stable base this and other contractor saws provide. Just have been having difficulty justifying the move. Sounds like I need to look at more of a cabinet saw, as you said. I’ll take a look at the F2 per your suggestion.
Thanks again for the thoughtful comments!
I was under the impression the Dewalt was more like 1600 or 1700W while the F1 is 1100W.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the comparison! Can you comment on the noise difference between the F1 and the Dewalt 7491? Is it considerably different?
Can anyone tell me the accuracy of the fence?
I have been looking for a saw that has rack and pinion.
It was extremely accurate during my testing. It would be worth asking a customer who use the saw every day how well it held Its accuracy. Seemed fine to me, but I only had it in my shop for a short period of time.
I’m new to woodworking and not familiar with Laguna. Is this F1 first gen? I saw another video that says F1 gen 1 has terrible dust collection.
Hi Maung, this F1 is the 2020 model with the improved dust collection.
It looks like the wheels are sold separately. Also, I’m order to move the saw with the wheels, you’ve got to lift it up from the fence rails? Wouldn’t this damage the aluminum fence rail system?
It’s designed for lifting using the rails and they seem to be pretty rigid. I think the risk is more in throwing off the rail alignment if you move the saw a lot rather than damaging the rails themselves.
@@ToolMetrix okay than you for the reply. I am in the process of trying to make my decision on which table saw to buy. I've got the Grizzly and Laguna in mind. Some concerns with Laguna is the customer service. A lot of people online complaint about their customer service.
No problem. Which Grizzly are you looking at?
Help me make up my mind, should i get the F1 or F2? I'm a bit worried about the 1.5 hp motor as not being powerful enough in the F1. I'm a DIY hobbist who is aspiring to be a full time cabinet maker, so using a dado blade would be ideal. There is a difference of $500 between the two models, is the $500 worth it for the F2? Thanks for doing these reviews!
Hi Todd, Thanks for your question. I do think the 1.5 HP motor is powerful enough. I think the motor upgrade on the F2 is more about a better quality motor than a more powerful one. I do think that the F2 is worth the upgrade for other reasons, however, particularly if you want to turn pro. I love the fence, cast iron wings and built-in wheels. For cabinetmaking the longer fence is a nice upgrade as well.
Hi. I recently purchased Laguna 1.
I have two problems, maybe you can help me.
1. My dial is set between 90 and 44.5 degrees.
Where is the regulation for 45 degrees?
2. The dial tilt knob operates very easily. If I turn the knob to 45 degrees, it straightens a little. Is there a blockage somewhere?
I don’t remember on this saw specifically but typically On 1, there should be an adjustment bolt in the saw that allows you to re-zero the 90 and 45 settings. On 2 I’m not sure but you’ll have to try to see what it’s catching on. Maybe an inspection camera would help.
I just put one of these together today, its such a nice saw, but i have to disagree on the fence....With the amount of work they put into this beast How the heck did they not incorporate a locking mechanism at the back end of the fence? ... Its just frustrating that its so nice, but then when i go to lock the fence down, the rear end of the fence will literally lift up from the action of engaging the handle, and there is noticeable play towards the end.. Maybe i have the track tension set too high? i dunno..kinda disappointed in that, but everything else is solid! Also.. the directions completely leave out about 3 key steps, and completely ignore the center panel that you have to install under the motor.
What your describing about the fence sounds like something is wrong with your setup. There shouldn't be any play, and you shouldn't need any locking mechanism on the rear of the fence. I'd suggest calling Laguna support to help you troubleshoot.
can the f1 be used at 220V like the F2? or only 110V
Yes. According to the F1 manual it can be wired to 220V as well. You have to swap out the switch, and the provide a part number for the 220V switch in the manual.
After watching your review, I purchased the F1 saw The blade tilt adjustment needs to be adjusted. There are no directions in the manual, paper or online, and no directions in the Fusion F1 factory videos. How is the blade tilt adjustment done?
Hi Ken, This is very simple. I had to do it when I removed the top from the saw. There's a locking collar and set screw at the end of the threaded rod that is used to set the zero stop. Loosen the set screw, adjust the locking collar until the 90 and 45s are aligned, and tighten it up. Part #s 84-85 on page 37 lagunatools.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/FUSION-1-Manual.pdf
@@ToolMetrix Well, that was easy enough. Adjustment complete. The owners manual which came with the saw is only 27 pages. I used the online manual at the Laguna Tools website. Most of the numbers are not very visible so clean glasses are required. I did find the schematic on page 27 of my booklet but the schematic is different. Parts 84 & 85 are not with the rod. It appears to me that the rod is not pictured. If anyone else has a problem with the manual which comes with the saw, go to lagunatools.com, find your saw and view the manual online. Paul, thank you very much.
@@ToolMetrix I went to your website and found the business email button. However, after completing the captcha, nothing further happened. I tried clicking the Submit button hoping an email form would appear but nothing. How can I contact you?
My web site contact form is broken. I need to re-do the entire site. For now, best way is at ToolMetrix on FaceBook or Instagram.
My pleasure, Ken. Glad it worked. Cheers, Paul
What gauge metal are the table extensions? I saw someone bend them with a finger.
I didn’t measure that but they didn’t seem that thin.
Great video! I am trying to decide between the F1 and F2 models. How noticeable is the extra power that comes with the F2? I occasionally work with thicker Harwood stock and want to know if I can get by with the F1
Thanks. I think the power difference is actually tough to notice. But the other upgrades make the F2 a great consideration IMO.
How square was the blade to the fence out of the box?
Blade to miter slot was off by about.010 if I recall correctly. Adjustment wasn’t difficult and within 15 -20 minutes I was able to get it to within about.001.
Could the owner swap out the motor for another "off the shelf"? For example, a 240V motor of the same power and weight as the original motor. Is the motor mounting generic?
I don’t remember. Sorry.
What model year was this F1?
2020
I watched the F2 and F1 review so far. I'm looking at this F1 or the F2 or the Craftex CX212 which is a 2HP motor. Would you say that an amateur woodworker who needs precision table saw can rely on this one, or would you recommend the F2 ? I'm also eyeing the F2 fence if it can fit onto the F1, do you know if that is possible ?
The F1 does not come with wheels. The F2 includes wheels as standard. Yes, you can get plenty of precision out of the F1. The F2 includes mobility, slight power advantage, nicer fence and cast iron wings. Overall nicer saw, but the F1 can do the job. I don't know if the F2 fence would work on the F1. You'd have to ask Laguna about that. Best of luck!
Does the F1 have the capacity for an 8" stacked dado blade?
3/4” I believe. Worth checking with Laguna.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the reply. I'm asking about blade diameter and whether or not it maxes out at 6" or 8" for the dado set.
Oh, gotcha. I don’t know about that. I’m not aware of a reason why it wouldn’t support an 8” stack but I didn’t test it.
What generation of the F1 is this?
Second I believe. Not first.
I love this saw. I have played with it at Rockler and it seems so smooth and nice. I have a 1.5 HP full cast iron 10 inch Jet table saw (model number - JWTS-10CW2-LFR) right now, but was thinking about switching to this. Would you suggest this saw over what I already have? It's a little older of a version of this bre.is/dae33rC3 The saw I have is a little older, but still rocks. I like the closed base of this one and that nice dust collection.
Hi Jacob, that's a tough call. The saw that you have is a nice saw, and if it still rocks, my recommendation would be to use it for a while longer and save up for an upgrade to a cabinet saw if you have 220V power available. You could probably retrofit some better dust collection onto your saw pretty easily since it is a hybrid design (much harder on a contractor saw with the motor hanging out the rear). But, if you are ready to make a move now, I'd suggest looking that the F2 as I believe that will feel like more of an upgrade for you. With the F1 you would give up cast iron wings on your current saw for stamped steel wings on the F1. Unless you need to keep your saw light for portability I'd rather have the cast iron wings. And the fence on the F2 is a standout in its class.
i am currently setting up my Laguna 1. the blade isnt at 90 degrees at the zero stop. There is nothing I can find in the manual( a big disapointment, that manual) that shows how to adjust the stops.the 45 is off as well.
Hi Rodney, there's a locking collar and set screw at the end of the threaded rod that is used to set the zero stop. Loosen the set screw, adjust the locking collar until the 90 and 45s are aligned, and tighten it up. Part #s 84-85 on page 37 lagunatools.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/FUSION-1-Manual.pdf
@@ToolMetrix Thank you. I found it on the prints but you answered another question. I wasnt sure if there was only one of them or if one adjusted both. Now I know. Again thanks for the quick answers. its a big help.
Awesome. My pleasure Rodney.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks again, the saw is up and running. Its not a heavy duty saw, it is however precise. I think overall its a good saw. In fact I only have one complaint..that owners manual may be the worst tech document and example of technical writing I have ever seen. My childhood erector set was better written.
I definitely see a lot of complaints online so I don’t think you’re alone in your opinion. I set up so many tools that I don’t end up using the manuals very much so I’m not a good judge. In fact a lot of times I get early versions of tools where the manual isn’t even available yet, and then nobody in customer service can help either.
What is the CFM and HP rating of the vacuum which you used in this video? Or, was it a dust collector?
Thanks,
Ken
5 hp probably pulling about 400-500 CFM at that duct. Long run plus 20 feet of 4” flex
@@ToolMetrix Thank you!
I am seriously considering buying this F1 saw especially because it’s on 10% off sale right now and right at the price point I need, but I am curious if you think it’s worth an extra $350 to try to stretch and get the F2. This will be my first table saw and I will probably have to defer some other tools if I stretch for the F2. What does the cost/ benefit analysis look like in your opinion?
I do consider the F2 to be a worthwhile upgrade. I'm a big fan of cast iron wings and I like the trunion design better. If the saw will mainly remain in one spot, I would try to go with the F2. If you will be moving the saw from location to location on a regular basis, then the F1 would be a better move. If you want to save some money, the F1 is a very nice saw and I believe that you'll be happy with it.
ToolMetrix I’m deciding between this and the Grizzly 077. I was thinking about the Fusion 2, but my garage is all 20amp circuits and 25a is recommenced for the F2. As a beginning weekend worker whose garage is also my fishroom, space is at a premium and I will be moving the saw around to use it and the F1 is lighter. How difficult is it to adjust square on this saw? I’ve taken apart cars, so I’m handy around a toolbox. (And I have this video!) I also have Rockler store a few miles away and they sell it.
Hi Catfish, the F2 is very easy to adjust for square. The F1 isn’t quite as easy but it’s certainly doable. I’m not an electrician so I can’t give you a qualified override of the 25 amp recommendation but I ran it on a 20 amp circuit and didn’t have any problems. I pushed it pretty hard too. In my opinion there’s a lot of value for the upgrade cost. Wheel kit, better trunnions, major fence upgrade, cast iron wings. Moving it with the wheel kit is super easy.
i have read multiple reviews that it is impossible to realign the mitre slot to the blade because of poor manufacturing.
Well, actually I did it on this saw. It was definitely trickier on the F1 than on the F2 and F3, but I got there. It’s possible that there was a design change between the one that they sent to me and the larger production run that makes this adjustment more difficult but I’m not aware of that.
I’m having exactly this problem, I loosened all the bolts so that they barely stay in and I still can’t move anything. Cuts at the moment are 1/8th out over a 10 inch crosscut.
Are you loosening six bolts? What is Laguna support saying?
What are the two pieces of metal for on the top of the fence?
Hi Mark, I believe that the black frame is steel and the silver colored plate that the work piece rides against is aluminum.
Looks like a bare step up from a contractor saw
If you meant “big” instead of “bare” then I agree. The fence, dust collection and trunion design stand out in particular.
and only 1000$ im sold
Good call, Moose!
Force against a blade, vibration, all of these can make it move, if you are repeating a cut at a preset angle wouldn't you want to repeat it accurately? I set the blade to 90 with my digital angle gauge, start the saw and stop it and remeasure it and it is 90.2, so imagine cutting a 2" piece of Walnut... will it move in the piece?
I am not going to find out...
Yep that’s more movement than I would want.
Trunion looked like aluminum and mounted to the top. No. I don't like that. Cabinet mounted is the only and best way. Two piece front fence rail? No. No reason to do that. Cheap miter gauge, but no one uses those anyway.
Hi Gary, yes, the trunion is cast aluminum on the F1. The benefit for this saw is that is makes the saw lighter for those who move it to a job site, and also keeps the cost down for those who might be looking for a lower price tag on their saw. Moving up the product line, the F2 adds some cast iron to the trunion mechanism (where it attaches to the cabinet body), and the trunion on that saw is mounted to the cabinet. The F2 also has quite a bit of aluminum alloy in the trunion mechanism, but it is beefier than on the F1. The F3, as I understand it (I haven't removed the top on one yet; hopefully soon) uses a full heavy duty cast iron trunion mechanism. The two piece fence rail would definitely bother me if the split was to the right of the blade, but with it over on the left you would never pass over the split so I don't care. I would think that the reason for this would be shipping costs, as the package would have to be larger to accommodate the longer rail, or it would have to ship in a separate box. Either way that adds cost to the consumer that many people would rather not absorb.
Doesn't mention that the angle handwheel doesn't have a lock on it... I'm returning mine because of this... really bad design flaw.
Does it move When the saw is running? I never lock mine on my ancient unisaw.
Stamped steel extensions bendover
With the f1
They shouldn't if you attach them securely. That would take a lot of force to do that.
$1199 for the machine, $300+ for shipping, $100+ for the wheel kit. The "L" shaped fence. Not buyers remorse, REGRET. It's a TOY. Customer service, Non-Existent, Technical Support, Even Worse. Manual, a Taiwanese picture book. Stamped steel. Most of it does not align. Try to get the extensions and cast top to align, near impossible.
Hi Dean, sorry to hear that you were disappointed with this saw. Thanks for sharing your experience here.
I do not trust people using inches
Paranoia will destroy ya …