Winter storm Elliott blasted through our area and brought -25 °f windchills and -7 °f temps. This shows our mini split running in these conditions and heating like a beast!!
I totally agree. You can read the specs that say they heat well into the negatives but until you actually see it doing that it's hard to believe. Unbelievable engineering!
This is air conditioning... Air conditioning is heat pumps moving heat around. In the winter they move heat from the outside to the inside. In the summer they move heat from the inside to the outside.
I have this same pairing in my sunroom. Like that it has a vacation mode with a special 50°F set point. Keeps the pipes from freezing. (In Southern New Hampshire). Oh, I have the 12 kBTU pairing.
120F is awesome. I have one that has a stated lower limit of 5F or -5F (depending on what literature one looks at), it was still working at (also) -7F, but had output of only 89F (and needed to be supplemented with the furnace). I wanted to know how much better those 'hyper heat' models were, and now I know. Thanks.
I had my doubts about how much performance we would see when temps went that low too. I was fully planning on a similar output to what you mentioned (80-90°F) which is still very respectable. I was pleasantly surprised. Made me feel good about spending the extra $ on the Hyper Heat for sure.
Great video! I wish you would have recorded the sound inside the house when it was defrosting. People in my area of Wisconsin complain that they can hear a whooshing noise inside when it is in defrost mode. Also I noticed that your outside unit isn’t that high off the ground. Do you ever have trouble with snow getting too high around the unit?
Great idea! I'll wait for it to get cold enough to get into a routine defrost cycle and will record what it sounds like inside. There is a swooshing sound but its really not too loud. From what I understand the sound comes from the switching valve reversing the flow of refrigerant to heat the outdoor unit so it can defrost. As far as the height of our condenser...we don't usually get a lot of snow all at once here in southern Ohio...we mostly deal with freezing rain and light snow.
I have the 4 room version 36KBTU yes it does make a whooshing going into defrost mode. Basically for a short period of time it switches from Heat mode to AC Mode pulls a bit of heat out the house to defrost/ice the outside condenser coils. Sometimes its a bit loud and sounds like its going to blow up off the wall as the gas/liquid refrigerant reverses direction...usually happens when its under high heat demand and needs to defrost and that reversing valve switches... other times I can barely hear it when it switches when the heat demand of the house is low
I have a Fujitsu XLTH that looks very similar in looking and performantce to your Mitsubishi HHi unit. However, the look when I open my door does not look as nice as yours.
I have heard great things about Fujitsu as well. I would say your XLTH is a mirror image to the Mitsubishi too. Its amazing how well these units perform in the extreme temperatures.
I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees instead of just one bedroom.
Cheaper than firewood regardless of outside temp - I think. Search for True Cost of Energy Comparisons - Apples to Apples Published Mar. 2017|Id: BAE-1408 By R. Scott Frazier OKSTATE
I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period is about $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees with four wall units... instead of just one bedroom with a single Window AC unit.
I hear you! We do burn wood as well. We use a WoodMaster outdoor furnace for our cast iron radiators as well as domestic hot water. The only utility we have is electricity so its either heating oil, propane, wood, or electric. The Mitsubishi heats our living area and the kitchen most of the time. The WoodMaster does the rest of the house. Its nice to have the versatility. Long term goal is to install more heat pumps in other areas.
If you have an average home (1500 sft to 4500 sft), and live in the frigid north of the US or Canada, then Mitsubishi HyperHeat Multi-Zone is the most inefficient system for you. You are better off installing a Mr Cool Single Zone of Multi-Zone, because Mitsubishi multizone will short cycle frequently (going to ZERO to peak - shutting down and starting up), resulting in energy consumption of over 3000Kwh. Other companies have designed the systems to modulate but not Mitsubishi.
3kw is a hell of alot better than 20kw electric resistance heat, besides what’s the difference in 1.5kw running for an hour “modulating down” vs 3kw running for 30 minutes
You know absolutely nothing, do you? Mitsubishi will always be a better option than any Chinese heat pump. Scandinavians heat their homes almost exclusively with Mitsubishi Hyperheats (a few opt for Panasonic Heatcharge units instead), and they're getting the same amount of cold as Canada does. Chinese units (i.e. Gree and the various Midea OEM users like Mr Cool and Pioneer) are the ones with bad compressor modulation. The one thing you're correct about is that single units are more reliable than multisplit units. After a certain temperature (below about -30C/-20F) there's only one way to heat properly, so this whole discussion about heating methods becomes completely irrelevant. And that is, believe it or not, WOOD. Not gas, not heat pumps, not even coal boilers on radiators, but a plain and simple wood stove. It's completely independent from electricity in the worst case scenario of the energy grid failing (boilers have an electric pump to circulate the radiator fluid, heat pumps are obviously all electric, resistance heating is too), and it's what'll save you from certain death.
I have them at my house in NH. They work awesome in cold weather. I can't believe it!
I totally agree. You can read the specs that say they heat well into the negatives but until you actually see it doing that it's hard to believe. Unbelievable engineering!
This has to be the best invention since air conditioning.
This is air conditioning... Air conditioning is heat pumps moving heat around. In the winter they move heat from the outside to the inside. In the summer they move heat from the inside to the outside.
And the beauty is uses the same concepts as air conditioning just in reverse
Wow you should make more videos about this machine
I have this same pairing in my sunroom. Like that it has a vacation mode with a special 50°F set point. Keeps the pipes from freezing. (In Southern New Hampshire).
Oh, I have the 12 kBTU pairing.
I bet it works perfect in your sunroom! I'll have to look at mine to see if I have the vacation mode too.
These are game changers
I couldn't agree more!
I have 2 of them in my garage and love them.
Oh NICE! You must have a sizable garage for sure if you are running two of them. I love the versatility of these units and how efficient they perform.
@@w105bks 30x40 with 14’ ceiling.
120F is awesome. I have one that has a stated lower limit of 5F or -5F (depending on what literature one looks at), it was still working at (also) -7F, but had output of only 89F (and needed to be supplemented with the furnace). I wanted to know how much better those 'hyper heat' models were, and now I know. Thanks.
I had my doubts about how much performance we would see when temps went that low too. I was fully planning on a similar output to what you mentioned (80-90°F) which is still very respectable. I was pleasantly surprised. Made me feel good about spending the extra $ on the Hyper Heat for sure.
@@w105bks I am looking at the Cooper hunter hyper heat model 36kbtu but maybe I should spend the extra money and get the Mitsubishi .
Hi there - amazing what these things can do - what sort of power is it drawing to keep the temperature?
Great video! I wish you would have recorded the sound inside the house when it was defrosting. People in my area of Wisconsin complain that they can hear a whooshing noise inside when it is in defrost mode.
Also I noticed that your outside unit isn’t that high off the ground. Do you ever have trouble with snow getting too high around the unit?
Great idea! I'll wait for it to get cold enough to get into a routine defrost cycle and will record what it sounds like inside. There is a swooshing sound but its really not too loud. From what I understand the sound comes from the switching valve reversing the flow of refrigerant to heat the outdoor unit so it can defrost. As far as the height of our condenser...we don't usually get a lot of snow all at once here in southern Ohio...we mostly deal with freezing rain and light snow.
I have the 4 room version 36KBTU yes it does make a whooshing going into defrost mode. Basically for a short period of time it switches from Heat mode to AC Mode pulls a bit of heat out the house to defrost/ice the outside condenser coils. Sometimes its a bit loud and sounds like its going to blow up off the wall as the gas/liquid refrigerant reverses direction...usually happens when its under high heat demand and needs to defrost and that reversing valve switches... other times I can barely hear it when it switches when the heat demand of the house is low
What's the outdoor unit model #
I have a Fujitsu XLTH that looks very similar in looking and performantce to your Mitsubishi HHi unit. However, the look when I open my door does not look as nice as yours.
I have heard great things about Fujitsu as well. I would say your XLTH is a mirror image to the Mitsubishi too. Its amazing how well these units perform in the extreme temperatures.
How often does your unit defrost
How's your electric bill in the winter heating with just that system?
I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees instead of just one bedroom.
Not mounted high enough off the ground.
Heating the house at approx what cost?
Cheaper than firewood regardless of outside temp - I think.
Search for True Cost of Energy Comparisons - Apples to Apples
Published Mar. 2017|Id: BAE-1408
By R. Scott Frazier OKSTATE
I have the same system only slightly larger with a 4 room wall unit system and one 36KBTU compressor. I bought My house 3 years ago and it was built in late 60's has radiant electric ceiling heat only. My first winter on radiant electric heat Dec-Jan- Feb averaged about $480 a month and that was regulating the house between 64-68 depending on when i was home or not. I put this Mitsubishi system in the following summer and my electric bill for the last 2 years averages for the same 3 month period is about $140-$150 a month. Saving close to $130-$140 a month through the winter months. Since installed I haven't had the need to turn on the radiant electric... this system more than handles my northern Ohio weather... -12 is the coldest day so far since install and it didn't even blink. Summer AC Mode went from about $60 a month running a single window AC in my bedroom... to $75-$80 a month with this system but am cooling the entire house 68-70 Degrees with four wall units... instead of just one bedroom with a single Window AC unit.
Rather have a Ashly wood burner
I hear you! We do burn wood as well. We use a WoodMaster outdoor furnace for our cast iron radiators as well as domestic hot water. The only utility we have is electricity so its either heating oil, propane, wood, or electric. The Mitsubishi heats our living area and the kitchen most of the time. The WoodMaster does the rest of the house. Its nice to have the versatility. Long term goal is to install more heat pumps in other areas.
Is it expensive to operate?
probably eats at least 2kw per hr
If you have an average home (1500 sft to 4500 sft), and live in the frigid north of the US or Canada, then Mitsubishi HyperHeat Multi-Zone is the most inefficient system for you. You are better off installing a Mr Cool Single Zone of Multi-Zone, because Mitsubishi multizone will short cycle frequently (going to ZERO to peak - shutting down and starting up), resulting in energy consumption of over 3000Kwh. Other companies have designed the systems to modulate but not Mitsubishi.
3kw is a hell of alot better than 20kw electric resistance heat, besides what’s the difference in 1.5kw running for an hour “modulating down” vs 3kw running for 30 minutes
You know absolutely nothing, do you? Mitsubishi will always be a better option than any Chinese heat pump. Scandinavians heat their homes almost exclusively with Mitsubishi Hyperheats (a few opt for Panasonic Heatcharge units instead), and they're getting the same amount of cold as Canada does. Chinese units (i.e. Gree and the various Midea OEM users like Mr Cool and Pioneer) are the ones with bad compressor modulation. The one thing you're correct about is that single units are more reliable than multisplit units.
After a certain temperature (below about -30C/-20F) there's only one way to heat properly, so this whole discussion about heating methods becomes completely irrelevant. And that is, believe it or not, WOOD. Not gas, not heat pumps, not even coal boilers on radiators, but a plain and simple wood stove. It's completely independent from electricity in the worst case scenario of the energy grid failing (boilers have an electric pump to circulate the radiator fluid, heat pumps are obviously all electric, resistance heating is too), and it's what'll save you from certain death.