How To Upgrade Vintage Bike With Sealed Cartridge Bottom Bracket
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- I show how to replace the bottom bracket in a vintage bike with a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. The bike in the video is a early 90s Trek 1000 road bike.
Pros of sealed cartridge bottom brackets:
They are they are sealed. They are better protected against water, mud, dirt, etc. So they will likely last longer.
They come preadjusted from the factory.
Relatively easy to replace.
Easier to buy than new cup/cone BBs.
Cons:
Not meant to be overhauled, but instead be replaced.
Maybe a little heavier than cup and cone BBs.
Feel free to search google for more pros/cons.
▶ SUBSCRIBE & HIT THE 🔔 bit.ly/SubRJThe...
👍 And please give my video a thumbs up 👍
▶FACEBOOK.com/RJTheBikeGuy
/ rjthebikeguy
▶TOOLS
www.rjthebikegu...
▶SHIRTS
bit.ly/RJBikeGu...
▶WEBPAGE
www.RJTheBikeGu...
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Sir, I have vintage folding bike, I would like to replace to cup type BB with a sealed one, found out the bike's bottom bracket shell is 73mm, in our country the available in the market is 68mm(there's also 80mm). I have a sealed BB 68mmx115mm, obviously it's undersized. What if I get 68mm x 127.5mm and put some spacers?
@@haldyordan2316 Um... if your shell is 73mm, or 5mm wider, adding spacers is the opposite of what you want to do. And spacers have nothing to do with spindle length. Spindle length adjusts how for the cranks stick out. You need to look a the specs of the cranks for what spindle length to use. Different cranks require different spindle lengths.
www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank you very much
I just found out that 73mm bottom bracket shell, the inner treads a bit larger, so cups from the 68mm a bit loose, my idea buying a longer spindle set a lost cause 😅
@@haldyordan2316 The spindle length comes from the crankset specs. The other measurement, (68/73) comes from the bottom bracket shell width. So if your frame shell is 73mm, you need a 73mm BB.
A CZcamsr who owns a tripod, a decent camera, the correct tools, a proper bike maintenance stand, works in metric and doesn't waffle. 10/10, perfect vid :0)
No awful music in the background and his videos are still up to date.
@@jonahnichols2158 ijædkxnfjccnfb vjv ja
a torque wrench would have been nice but decent video
I like waffles. Sourdough Belgian 🧇 🧇
Although worth investing in a BB Cup tool. The Adjustable Crescent Wrench... Rounding nuts since 1905. Hateful implement.
Great video.
One tip for anybody still learning: whenever you have the bottom bracket out of a bike, before you clean out the bb shell, that's the perfect time to pull the seatpost and clean out any rust, corrosion, or gunk in the seat tube and hit it with some Boeshield. Then you can just clean up everything down below before reassembling.
Thanks for the great content, RJ!
These are the best bike videos, with outstanding close-up camera work, and thorough commentary. For people like me who often learn the hard way: be sure to screw the crank remover tool all the way in to the crank, as far as it will go, before tightening down the plunger part--this to avoid ruining the soft aluminum threads in the crank arm. Also, I was at first unable to slide the sealed bearing assembly all the way through the bottom bracket on my older Nishiki mountain bike, because it ran into a screw protruding through the bottom of the bottom bracket, a screw that attaches a plastic cable guide under the bottom bracket. I had to Dremel down the screw to accommodate the sleeve containing the sealed bearing assembly.
Top tip when mounting a BB; screw in the non drive side a lil first, that way its supported on that side preventing the driveside from cross threading! Is usefull with slightly worn off threads on old frames!
*Some missed parts.. red reflector. No kick leg, the one in picture I got it separately. **Latest.Bike** Was easy to assembly. Instructions are clear. Very good idea to take it to a bike shop for tune up. If you have tools, knowledge and time easy to make it ready for a ride.*
I want to make a confession. I use your videos as white noise while i work because i find your voice very calming if that makes sense at all. Of course i do pick up some bike maintenance tips along the way. :)
I find my voice annoying. LOL!
Your videos are indispensable for fledgling bike mechanics like myself. Thank you so much for all that you do.
I have been watching a bunch of your how to fix bike vids lately, just got back into cycling after a thirty plus year hiatus. I picked up a couple old Treks, an 800 mountain track, and a 730 road bike. I am working my way through them and riding them and thanks to you I will be able to get all the wearable parts back to pristine working order for short money once I Aquire a few more tools. I can't thank you enough for all the good work you have put into these excellent how to vids. The savings in labor will cover the cost of my tools, and I can have the satisfaction of doing my own work.
Following a series of seven botched jobs across three new bikes from a bike shop, I decided to do my own work. Among the first things I did was to replace the cup and cone BB with a sealed bearing BB. Fortunately I'm mechanically savvy so the job went perfectly after watching such a video. I buy tools as I see a need for them and have built up a collection. I love working on bikes and it's great to have help from the videos.
I used to love working on bikes, I miss it! spent 5 years working in a shop making no money but I would say that life was simple and I enjoyed it :)
Sealed cartridge bottom bracket is probably the change I've done on my bike that's had the biggest effect. It just makes you pedal so much more efficiently
RJ,
Thanks for all the "how to" videos concerning bicycle maintenance, in my opinion you are the best on youtube!
Thank you very much!
Rick
true that.......the best...clear concise explanations.
His videos are an excellent template for presenting instructional videos. I've seen far too many videos on CZcams where the presenters waffle about everything under the sun and forget the actual purpose of the video. RJ's videos have taught me loads about bike maintenance and saved me quite a lot of money as well.
Make sure to check for a washer behind each crank center bolt before attempting to use the puller! They must be removed or the puller will not work, and the crank arm threads and tool threads can be damaged.
Also, there’s a chance the bike has an Italian threaded bottom bracket. If this is the case, the drive side bottom bracket shell won’t be reverse threaded. Knowing this is important to avoid frustration/damage by trying to remove it as a left hand threaded shell. Also, it will help to ensure buying the correct bottom bracket.
RJ, thank you so much for this video. It was perfect for what I needed to repair a vintage to a sealed BB cartridge. Despite the terminology differences, you work in metric and show critical tips about clockwise and anti-clockwise, what to measure for the size of the replacement etc., that I just could not find on other "so called" tutorials. You have made me look like an expert to my kids. That was even better than fixing the bicycle :-) You will be my first channel to check for any future repairs that I am not familiar with.
Cool!
I recently got started riding bikes. I purchased an older used one and your videos are very helpful.
Clear and concise without distractions.
Thanks for the help!
Better than park tool site
this is the only part of the bike i was afraid to work on. now i feel i am ready to install a new bottom bracket. clear and simple explanation as always, thanks Bike Guy!
Your videos give me the confidence to do my own repairs and upgrades on my ‘79 Nishiki road bike - I’ve changed all my cables and put on new bar tape so far… next up is bottom bracket and crankset. Thank you!
I replaced the old-style bearing races with a sealed cartridge on my 30-year old bike. This video was very informative and helpful. Thanks!
This certainly was helpful for upgrading the bottom bracket on my Mongoose Ledge 3.1. Seems like no matter how much I adjusted the bottom bracket with the old caged bearings, the slop would eventually return. So my chain ring had a wobble to it. Definitely feels better than it was brand new. It even shifts better. The chainring is slightly closer to the frame now, so the chain no longer rubs with the front derailleur in top gear.
That rub can sometimes be adjusted / some shifters have a "trim" to move the derailleur slightly one way or the other; similarly some systems are not supposed to run certain gear combos (a 2x8 system running 1-8 will rub with the chain running so cockeyed). [General info for all]
Looks like your situation is a bonus perc
Since then, I swapped the rear wheel that used a 7 speed freewheel to a wheel that now has an 8 speed cassette. Had to upgrade the rear derailleur and shifter in the process. I mainly did this upgrade so I can have hydraulic disc brakes in the rear. Now when my front derailleur is on the small ring, the chain won't start rubbing until I get to about 3rd or 4th on the rear derailleur. Once I'm on the 2nd chain ring, it's nice and quiet. It shifts insanely smooth now. Oh, and the sealed bottom bracket is holding up quite nicely.
@@BrownJello That's not what the adjuster on the shifter is for...usually the derailleur has two screws for that
@@samteks125 Are you referencing the barrel adjuster on the shifter? I was referring to shifters that have a half step. I have a Shimano shifter that gives a half step to eliminate rub/misalignment.
I just found how to size the length of the shaft or spindle of my bicycle. I always find your video so clear and easy to understand. Thank You, RJ the Bike Guy.
I was so confused about the size of bottom bracket I would need and I always took my bikes in the past to my local bike shop. The bike shop is closed now and I don't know how to message for a new one but now I know. Thank you so much, you are awesome. I know it is a square taper and I know everything else, I just didn't know what to measure and I was confused about the new bottom bracket sizes.
Shimano UN55...the best BB. You can feel the stiffness under your feet. And last years, if install correctly. Great video RJ.
I can’t stress how important it is not to cross thread . I learnt the hard way thankfully my patient bike shop got it sorted. Thanks for your videos. I’ve just finished restoring my 25 year old mountain bike. With your help.
Nice tutorial.
I think this is the "go ahead" award winner! :)
But thanks man.
im just 'go ahead' and like this comment
punkloader colmsutudamovi
Mesocasutl
@@blancobasnett - 'Go ahead' is far more irritating because those two words can be omitted and the sentence still makes perfect sense.
I don't mind the "go-aheads" because the video content is great. But now that I'm here..."go-ahead" is used when something you're about to say is obvious, like a surgeon telling his assistant, "go ahead and stitch him up," after an operation. When you're watching a video for something you don't know how to do, go-ahead is not really appropriate. Another pet peeve of mine out there is "actually", ha ha. RJ, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with everyone, I don't mind.
I dont know much about bikes and going through ur helpful videos makes me confident in repairing my bike ... thanx ..
Once again, you and your videos come to the rescue of this fledgling bike mechanic! Thanks so much!!
When I see your videos, I wonder how other tutorial videos manage to do it so badly, great video :)
Your detail is paramount to successful bicycle repairs. Not all work comes easy, but once learned it becomes more timely & easier.
Gee, Long ago a Shimano Rep confided in me that the sealed unit was adopted because too many shop techs lacked the skills to properly adjust the loose ball type. Glad to see the producer of this vid is using a unit with metal and not the plastic adjustable cup. He does good work.
I have used the ones with the plastic cups, but prefer the ones with the metal cups.
Thanks for this great video. I'm building from the frame up for the first time, very helpful.
If the drive-side "fixed cup" is reallllly stuck (as it was on my old 1960's bike!) there's a video somewhere showing a good method to remove it. Basically involves removing the spindle, buying a big carriage bolt, a couple of washers and nuts to hold your spanner in place. Worked a treat with mine!
any luck finding the video?
any luck finding the video?
any luck finding the video?
Thanks this vid helped me upgrade the bottom bracket on my 35 year old road bike (Koga Miyata )
My wrench kept slipping from the right hand side 'screw'. But I held it in place by clamping it with random pieces of aluminium and a threaded rod through the bottom bracket.
I had similar problems with my own hook wrench! I thought with the new lock ring, it would fit really well, but actually the new ring was a bit wider & my wrench wouldn't fit around it! Had to grind the round bit of the wrench a little to make it fit over the ring..
Excellent information! I couldn't shift the RHS retainer so I used an electric heat gun to warm it up and it came loose easily without the need of a hammer.
thx for the informative video. i have a '99 Stumpjumper FSR XC that had a tiny bit of crank/bb play last time out. had an ill fitting wheelset i was trying at the time which could have contributed. these old suspension bikes with the bushings/bearings are not maintenance free but other than cleaning chain/cassette, i have not had to remove cranks yet. but this vid can be my tutor when the time comes. meanwhile, on my commuter and fitness bikes, just 3 and 6 years old, i routinely remove and clean/regrease cranks and bb at minimum annually. my NOS 2010/'14 Trek has needed 3 chains, 3 cassettes and 3 gear cables. Incessant dropped chain under hard pedaling forced swapping the 3x10 for a 2x (without changing the shifters). And headsets on both the 21st century bikes needed bearings & regreasing. even the fat bike i built last winter snapped the plastic FD tab during cable install. but this 18 year old Stumpy shifts like new, and needed nothing but a cable and chain lube. still running the original cassette/chain. when the bb or crank finally do fail, i will upgrade as you have here, to a Hollotech or Race Face Turbine. thx again for inspiring confidence.
Brilliant bike videos - up there with the Park Tool gurus for demystifying things.
Definitely a good tutorial on how to switch a spindle to a bottom bracket! Tks a lot!
Thanks! It took me 2 days to break that last fixed cup free (had to secure the wrench with bolt/nut/washers and literally stand on it)...I'm going sealed and never looking back :D
Thank you! You saved me some money. I almost bought a 35mm bb and a special crank set because I thought the measurement was about the height of the bracket. Now I understand the amount of mm is the WIDTH of the bracket, which is just 68mm as usual in my case :D. I am upgrading a ATB from 1997. That's how I found your video. Thanks again!
U should upgrade to hollowtech2! Screws right in any old bike with basic bb! Its fantastic..
@@martijnt1353 Hi Martijn, that is what I did. Replaced the entire BB and crankset essembly 2 years ago ;).
i had creaking in my bottom bracket and needed to know what type of grease, how much grease to apply and how tight to to tighten it all up. After watching your vid my bottom bracket is now creak free. Thanks for sharing.
Cool I have a 1981 Schiwin since new I will restore after 40 years hanging in my shed. Thanks.
I only use Shimano UN55 cause they are the bomb! You can feel the difference when you pedal than say a stock SR Suntour Crank that it used on most mid price bikes. Thanks for the video, you always make informative videos.
Thanks a ton here, great video. I didn't have that special spanner to remove the lock ring on the adjustable cup so I cut small 10mmx10mmx250mm red oak sticks as sacrificial blow to knock that ring loose after soaking in pb blaster over-night (didn't "bugger" up the chrome plated lock ring notches that way). So I'm rebuilding my brother-in-laws mid-80's chromoly Montagna Tange Sakae SR group oval-tech 26" MTN bike so it's certainly not the one-offs like Italian or French. My spindle is NOT symmetrical. On the drive side there's about 3 more mm from the bearing race (center of where the wear marks are to the end of the square taper is 36mm). On the non-driveside that same distance is 33mm. My over-all spindle width is 124.85mm and my shell width is 67.8mm. Do you know which sealed cartridge I should look to acquire? So far I have found 68 X 122.5 and 68 x 127mm only. Thank you.
Find the closest you can. Slight longer propbably better than slightly shorter.
I think it is important to show beginners to install the adjuster cup first(with a little grease inside the cup to prevent the cup and BB from fusing together) as you are then able to have the cup acting as a guide, because of the length of the BB housing it is better to take the guess work in getting the BB screwing in straight.
Also using Park Tools HCW-4 will reduce the chances of rounding off the edges through slippage with the adjustable spanner.
Like what you are doing RJ.
Thank you so much for this. I haven't been able to find anywhere how to take a vintage bottom bracket out (didn't realize they don't use the same tool to remove)
Muy bonito color!!! Me gustó mucho!!!
This video helped me convert my walmart bike to sealed cartridge thanks
I like your video man! You are smart, and all were explained perfect! You did this video two year ago, but it still helpful. Thank you!
Another great video - you not only know a lot about bikes, but are a great teacher and video producer. Thank you...
I like how he opens the bolt first with the wrench and then uses fingers to turn the wrench attachment to not put lot of force on the bolt. Nice.
Apparently you have never used a ratchet wrench.
@@RJTheBikeGuy true. I don't have one.
If the second side of the bottom bracket cartridge is made of plastic instead of metal, you can use a packet of dielectric battery terminal grease from an auto parts store, which is made of silicone instead of petroleum and will not react chemically with the plastic part. Cheap too.
Avery good video clear and informative , ive just had this done to my bike its so much smother one day I will try and do it myself , thanks for a very good video.
Super efficient teacher. Excellent editing and great video. Not a second wasted. Fabulous. Thanks.
Nice job. Sealed cartridge is better today. I never knew this possible.
the best hand model ever lol. thanks for the great vids rj.
Clockwise, flipping BRILLIANT, THE WORDS I HAVE SAID TODAY!
Good demonstration and answered some questions I had about which measurements to take.
Shimano makes a beautiful crank removal tool which only requires one crescent wrench.
From personal experience it's not just vintage bikes, I have a few years old Diamondback Wildwood cross country bike that had this done when only a couple years old from bearing issues. Poor craftsmanship I was told if I remember correctly as this bike has never been off road and only on an asphalt exercise path. It's been fine otherwise, but I think I'd go with a better model if I were going to buy it again. Anyway interesting to know how this was done. Thanks for this and your other videos!
Thanks for this, I didn´t know it was possible to do this upgrade but am now waiting on a new Shimano BB for my 30 plus year old Peugeot racing bike. One point though, after i´d made the measurements, and then removed the old bearings and shaft, I found the size was stamped on the shaft of the original (Shimano) crankshaft anyway, 68 -113.
Cool! I rarely see that though.
I finally got my bottom bracket off but the assembly came out from the non drive side the drive side just was the shell on top of the bearing glad it came out tgo now I can start stripping the frame with and suspension fork
Again, impressive.
thank you so much i have a Dimond back apex and this is what i need to do you made it look so easy thank you again
I don't understand using grease on the threads....but that's okay, I don't know as much as you do about this particular job. However, if you just want some lubrication while screwing or sliding something something together, but not leave it lubed (it might vibrate apart) a really good trick to know is Windex or ammonia. These are bases (the opposite of acids). One characteristic of bases is that they are slippery: (soaps are bases), but when they dry they are no longer slippery. So on something you want to be slippery while you install it but not leave any lubrication to vibrate apart, Windex or ammonia works great (but don't use it on you water fittings). I'm trying to fix an old bottom bracket and find this video very helpful. Thanks!
It's about providing a layer between the metals so they don't seize over time. It also helps seal out moisture.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks. When I last went through my bottom bracket it was a bear getting it loose. So, in practice the bottom brackets must have been seizing, using a bit of grease kept this from happening, and the fine threads and 'torque' must be enough to keep it from working loose. The grease works good enough that I don't need to go out and buy copper paste. Makes sense. (A lot of lubricants, and cleaning products, are like this: there's the special one, but then there's stuff you already have that will also work. (I saw a GCN video where they mentioned 'copper paste' which is to keep parts from seizing. Never even heard of it before. There is a thing called Dissimilar Metals: I once had a steel nut running up and down a motorized Acme thread. It would randomly seize, no amount of lube, polishing.... I replaced the nut with a bronze nut which never seized and didn't matter if it was lubed or not. I think that's how 'copper paste' works. But clearly grease is enough. The reason grease didn't work for my acme thread is I was running it back and forth with a motor.) Cool.
@@WillN2Go1 It should be tight. But you don't want it to seize. Copper paste is designed for applications with high heat. Like car brakes. I have a video on galvanic reaction here: czcams.com/video/bGqV5KE7cb8/video.html
I changed on my folding bike the old style - cup and free ball bearings- bottom bracket system for a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. On the frame had not there an inside thread, but I changed. It was difficult.
NICE VID I JUST NEEDED TO REFRESH MY SKILLS I HAVENT DONE A UPGRADE IN SEVERAL YEARS.
It’s nice to have the correct tools 🧰
I notice some nice vintage bikes there. Columbus tubing and some nice lug work on another BB change out video. Vintage steel either Reynolds or Columbus was the best.
Thanks so much!! Very clear and helpful.
If more people rode bikes, we would have many fewer problems. Imagine an entire freeway for bicycles only stretching from sea to shining sea, it's a bicycles manifest destiny.
Excellent video, will be doing same to a Giant Comfort GSR cycle i just bought for wife, thank you so much for posting.
In this video, the original spindle appears to be symmetrical (or very close). Not all the old-style spindles are (see www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html ), so simply measuring their width may not result in getting a cartridge bottom bracket that yields the right chainline.
The cartridge will be similarly asymmetrical. They don't make cartridges with left right measurements. It will be fine.
He thanks a lot! I am going to do this to my two bikes (a racing bike and a mountainbike).
Greetings,
Jeff
I'm gonna go ahead and upgrade mine.
Good video.
Cheers.
Hey, Park Tools, I saw your guy (forget his name) from your videos advertise your chain cleaner.
Then, I saw RJ use it, and recommend it. You should send him free tools. Triple bottom-line, and all that jazz.
Great vid! I'm planning to do this replacement on an old Cannondale of mine. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you should note that different crank arms require different spindle lengths, so if you were switching out the crank arms in this video, you would have needed a bottom bracket with the correct spindle length for that specific crankset.
Changing cranks goes beyond the scope of the video. But unless you are going from a double to a triple or triple to a double, you should be pretty close. Something that wasn't mentioned is there are a few flavors of square taper spindles. JIS is the most common. ISO is the other major one. So if you were switching from Shimano to Campagnolo cranks, there might be a difference.
***** I don't work on Walmart bikes. Not sure I would want to put any money into them.
I went ahead and bought my own tools online. Took my old bottom, bracket off and put my new one on there. The bike shop was tripping didn’t know which way to go how to take it off.
If I order a BB with a diff spindle width, would that mess up my bike’s inherent chainline and affect shifting?
Cannondale upgraded me when I bought my Super V, because i bitched about noise when I bought it, I later figured out it was just a dirty chain!
My ex used to bitch a lot. I doubt changing her bb would have made her any less noisy. Maybe it was her dirty chain.
Finally a video where everthnig is not pre-loosen :-)
Nice vid
Thanks again for a quick but formative video!
Very good. Now I know exactly what I need to order and do. Thanks 😊 .
this dude really loves roadbikes
I love bikes. I have mountain bike videos and even a couple BMX bike videos.
RJ The Bike Guy yeah but the roadbikes are the most featured
RJ The Bike Guy and i love your vids very informative
A lot of the stuff is the same between different types of bikes.
Thanks man, your videos are very informative and well edited.
for a fun power stroke prank, you can also mount your friend or coop customer's crank at a 45 degree angle from the non drive side. Try it!
Perfect video. I think it's time to do this on my old classic bike.
The bike Guy saving my day again!... or my night fix. Great video!
It is always great to find help from the profesionals. Thanks!
Hi RJ,
I understand that you measured and therefore selected the Shimano replacement part.
How do I know the part I buy will fit the current thread on the bottombracket? Or is the thread universal?
Most bikes have British/ISO threading. There is also Italian and French threading for bikes made in those countries. And some others. www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks for the reply. I changed my bottom bracket last week, removing it with the help of a vise.
So happy that finally my repair is done (:
Thanks for your video. I'm ready to open for the commute bike shop. But just experienced mountain bike.
Good video.
Im working on a bike right now. I came across the problem of badly pinning peddles. So I ordered the shimano crank puller for 12 euros from amazon. Never knew of the existence before 3 days ago. It is an over complication when we see that 2 standard nuts can do the job too.
No. The nuts press the arms on to the spindles. After that, that just help to keep the arms from coming loose. There is purpose to the design.
Im sure, I was just mad about the holdup, lol! I cant wait to try it myself. In a week's. delivery time......
I found a frame, refurbished the axel of the front wheel (like you taught me), put on the back wheel, hammered in a saddle. Ooops, peddles dont run smoothly, "CZcams, HELP!"
I thank you very much for this video with the explanation, and I wish it was a translator for the Arabic language written on the screen, although I did not understand English, but thanks for the video and the detailed explanation, and I hope that it is translated into Arabic, and thanks again
I'm working on a bike just like this now! Why would you replace the unit? Since you already have the tools why not remove clean regrease and just reinstall?
is that all i need is the measurements? do i have to worry what kind of threading is there when buying a replacement bb? very helpful video btw!!!
Removing those crank arms looked easy but I find one at least is extremely hard to remove, especially the left side. Any tips? Thanks for the good videos, they help a lot of us a good deal.
Not sure. I have never had much problem removing crank arms using the correct tool. Other than damaged threads that the tool screws into.
I wish we had square taper bb in the 70's, the problems I had with loose cranks and worn threaded cotter pins.
DRINKING GAME: Down a can of beer every time he says, "Go ahead " 🙂
I've watched several of your videos in the last week or 2. Very informative and will help me when I make my bike purchase. Subscribed too. Thanks!!
Thank you RJ. Your videos have helped me immensely. Much appreciated..
You have a unique voice that's very welcoming, Mr. ShyFlirt. Thanks for your videos!