It’s funny. I worked at aerospace film lab and the trucks have a Stop Bath tank but the automatic processors don’t. The difference is the Fixer is getting cycled thru a silver retrieval filter 24/7. So it seems that the STOP is necessary if you’re reusing chemicals vs an automatic system
Adox CMS 20 II: After the development you MUST use an acidic stop bath before fixing. Do NOT use plain water. Bergger Panchro 400: It is possible to replace this bath with a plain water bath, at the same temperature as the process. Using water allows the film to continue developing in the shadows during the stop stage.
I use TF-4 (for film), the manual says the same you mentioned. It also says under "General Description" Features: Stop bath not necessary, just use water rinse after developing.
Long time I don’t use comercial stop bath for film. I use two different methods, white wine vinegar 10% o “retired” fixer. I use this intermediate bath (between developer and fixer) to ensure fixer quality avoiding developer degrade it.
I know you don't need stop bath but.... 1) It does make your fixer last so much longer. And 2) It's just soooooo cheap and lasts soooooo long. and 3) A bottle of stop bath lasts years (4+ for my current Fotospeed stop) I've never found it a consideration not to use it. Especially for someone like myself who does batches of processing every now and again. My fixer in a concertina type bottle lasts so, so long. Each to their own as always. Rule No1, there are no rules.
The best thing about stop bath for film is to preserve the life of the fixer. And last for ever. For paper not so much. But if I use for paper, I have a bottle for film too. Cheers from Portugal 👍, and keep the great podtubecast
Hello guys. When my stop bath ran out I use a cap full of vinegar in my water prob 1/50 because I'm Not sure how long it takes the water to kill the dev. That should be a rock band name lol
Hey All! Could you speak about Sodium Thiosulphate as a fixer for film? I have been contemplating fixing my Caffenol development with Sodium Thiosulphate but I'm a little unclear as to what ratio I should use and how long I should fix for. Any help would be really great!
I read something somewhere about 30 grams per litre, one and done (i.e. do not reuse). The rule of thumb for fixing time is supposed to be to cut the leader off, drop it in, time how long it takes to fully clear the leader, then double that as your minimum.
Something like a 20% dilution (for non anhydrous) should work fine. It’s slower acting than ammonium thiosulphate based fix but yes the leader test is a good way to estimate times. If in doubt leave it in a little longer. Something like ten minutes is probably fine and a good place to start. Also you can reuse it fine, I don’t know why you would use it one shot.
Interesting, internet crowd wisdom states you don’t need stop bath. I just had an interesting discussion with the owner of a small photo supply store here in Belgium and he claims using demineralised water is not as effective as a proper stop bath and had a fairly coherent argument indicating why. Goes to show that not all things we read about on the internet are absolute.
Hello my man, the reason I don't do that is when I spill Dev on my hand it feels like it takes a long while to rinse it off my fingers. for that reason I think it's important to rinse off the developer from the film so it does not slowly mix with the fixer.
It’s funny. I worked at aerospace film lab and the trucks have a Stop Bath tank but the automatic processors don’t.
The difference is the Fixer is getting cycled thru a silver retrieval filter 24/7. So it seems that the STOP is necessary if you’re reusing chemicals vs an automatic system
I have always used an acidic indicator stop bath for film. (Paper too) It is cheap and cleanly stops the development.
Adox CMS 20 II: After the development you MUST use an acidic stop bath before fixing. Do NOT use plain water. Bergger Panchro 400: It is possible to replace this bath with a plain water bath, at the same temperature as the process. Using water allows the film to continue developing in the shadows during the stop stage.
I use "Photographers' Formulary TF-5 Archival Rapid Fixer" and the instruction states DO NOT use stop bath. Great for TMAX film
I use TF-4 (for film), the manual says the same you mentioned. It also says under "General Description" Features: Stop bath not necessary, just use water rinse after developing.
Long time I don’t use comercial stop bath for film. I use two different methods, white wine vinegar 10% o “retired” fixer.
I use this intermediate bath (between developer and fixer) to ensure fixer quality avoiding developer degrade it.
Stop bath imho just makes your fixer last longer. I do usually put a bit of white vinegar in the 'stop rinse' as mentioned it's just a ph change.
I know you don't need stop bath but.... 1) It does make your fixer last so much longer. And 2) It's just soooooo cheap and lasts soooooo long. and 3) A bottle of stop bath lasts years (4+ for my current Fotospeed stop) I've never found it a consideration not to use it.
Especially for someone like myself who does batches of processing every now and again. My fixer in a concertina type bottle lasts so, so long. Each to their own as always. Rule No1, there are no rules.
The best thing about stop bath for film is to preserve the life of the fixer. And last for ever. For paper not so much. But if I use for paper, I have a bottle for film too. Cheers from Portugal 👍, and keep the great podtubecast
Hello guys. When my stop bath ran out I use a cap full of vinegar in my water prob 1/50 because I'm Not sure how long it takes the water to kill the dev. That should be a rock band name lol
I never use stop for film or paper.. I use my old fixer as a stop for paper - then use a fresh fixer.
Hey All! Could you speak about Sodium Thiosulphate as a fixer for film? I have been contemplating fixing my Caffenol development with Sodium Thiosulphate but I'm a little unclear as to what ratio I should use and how long I should fix for. Any help would be really great!
I read something somewhere about 30 grams per litre, one and done (i.e. do not reuse). The rule of thumb for fixing time is supposed to be to cut the leader off, drop it in, time how long it takes to fully clear the leader, then double that as your minimum.
Something like a 20% dilution (for non anhydrous) should work fine. It’s slower acting than ammonium thiosulphate based fix but yes the leader test is a good way to estimate times. If in doubt leave it in a little longer. Something like ten minutes is probably fine and a good place to start.
Also you can reuse it fine, I don’t know why you would use it one shot.
Holy shit it’s Saul !
It buffers the carry over for FILM and PAPER for the fixer.
I just just use water after dev
Why would you skip the stop bath? Makes no sense to me.
Don't skip it - Water Stop Bath. Very common.
Interesting, internet crowd wisdom states you don’t need stop bath. I just had an interesting discussion with the owner of a small photo supply store here in Belgium and he claims using demineralised water is not as effective as a proper stop bath and had a fairly coherent argument indicating why. Goes to show that not all things we read about on the internet are absolute.
Undoubtedly NO!!!!!!
Yes you need friggin stop bath.
Paper - yes. Film - no. Matter of choice on film.
I dont use it. Straight from dev to fix.
Hello my man, the reason I don't do that is when I spill Dev on my hand it feels like it takes a long while to rinse it off my fingers. for that reason I think it's important to rinse off the developer from the film so it does not slowly mix with the fixer.