Thank you very much for this, I didn't know the color developer would last so long, now to get some glass containers. You Sir saved me a nice bit of coin...
This might be the greatest unseen storing film chemicals video online! Thank you. I just picked up the 5 lt of ID-11 think I'm going to try the collapsible 5 LT container and hope for no leaks.
@@SprocketHoles I might just decant stock solution into 5 1 liter sealed bottles as I'm reading shelf life is 6 months. I know from past experience I have wasted stock with larger poor quality containers.
I love videos like this! For C-41, I've been using the Cinestill kit or Unicolor if Cinestill is out of stock. The Fuji kit looks VERY appealing, especially if I can also get the solutions to last that long. I may have to make the switch. I've heard of people topping off not-full bottles of solution with a canned argon gas. Not sure if it works, but I bought a few cans from a brand called Bloxygen to try on freshly mixed chemicals this week. Also, for black and white I use Ilfosol-3 in one-shot batches. I used to pour the waste in spare plastic water bottles but I noticed it also leaks out! So now I store the black and white waste in massive glass jars. Thanks again for sharing your process!
Since you are one of the very few on YT who is 1) processing their own E-6 with (2) a full (Fuji) E-6 chemical system rather than the more common short-cut kits, I will presume to propose a video subject for you. Shoot one roll of E-6, preferably Ektachrome 100 or Provia for lack of color cast, of some color test charts with a grey scale, plus whatever else you like. Process one part of the roll in your Fuji full E-6 system. Process the other in one of the three bath kits, such as Cinestill or what have you. Compare the color accuracy, contrast, and relative lack of color cast in the grey scale. I'd really like to know just how close to accurate rendition, these corner-cutting kits go. I have been of the opinion that the kits do not track color terribly well, partly because the users are not so critical these days, and partly because slightly off-color results will be digitally ironed out in later image processing. However, I'm the first to admit that I may be blowing it out my A... (I don't do this for myself, as I use E-6 formulas which I compound myself, derived about 35 years ago with weeks of trial and error with a color densitometer. No one would get anything out of a comparison based on my personal E-6 variant.)
I know this video is old, but what would be the issue of using ordinary drink bottles, and just replacing the bottle every month or so, depending on how often you use those bottles at home? Soft drink bottles, detergent bottles, etc? Less often if there are no leaks.
I've used ordinary plastic drinks bottles that had fizzy water in them to store XTOL and C41 developers. I squeezed the bottle to remove the air and it worked fine. If you do this CLEARLY LABEL THE BOTTLE AND REMOVE THE OLD FOOD LABEL. You do not want someone to drink from it.
Thanks for this. I am wondering if glass bottles are better than plastic? I’m using the Ilford chemicals for black and white and in the tropics. Wonder can I store chemicals in fridge at low temperature?
Hey, I see this comment is 5 months old, but if you are still wondering, here's my take on this: Glass bottles are better than plastic ones, since glass is less permeable. Less (or no) air will get in to cause chemical degradation. When it comes to storing in the fridge, I'd recon the colder you store your chemicals, the better. Having said that, I wouldn't want to store it in the same fridge where food is stored, you really don't want to risk a chemical spill, or any other risk of food contamination.
I use them for a set number of rolls and the mix a new set of working solutions. I have found the working solutions last pretty well, about 2-3ish months.
Friend, you are a saviour. I was looking into getting into the developing process at home, and the most affordable kit I could find was the same Fuji Hunt c41 kit you are showing here, but I was really anxious as to how I would store the chemicals since I am one person and don't want to waste a fortune every month on film. Thank you so much for the information and the video showcase of everything. Have you yet find the limit to the longevity of said chemicals or do you always end up using it before it goes bad?
So none of the chems have gone bad in the time it took me to us them. The part c of the kit that was stored "long term" was perfect when I opened it. I'm running another test were I mixed all 5L of the developer at once and stored it in sealed plastic bottles.
@@SprocketHoles Thank you for your response. I will try and store them according to this video and let’s hope they live long enough to be fully used. If you find any interesting results with your new test, maybe you can do another video of sorts! Cheers!
Very helpful, thank you for posting.
Dude the wine bag trick is genius!
Thank you very much for this, I didn't know the color developer would last so long, now to get some glass containers. You Sir saved me a nice bit of coin...
The wine bag idea is absolutely brilliant!! I want to try this for my RA-4 chemicals.
Great tips my dude
This might be the greatest unseen storing film chemicals video online! Thank you. I just picked up the 5 lt of ID-11 think I'm going to try the collapsible 5 LT container and hope for no leaks.
I would get a 3L contsiner and store 2L in full sealed bottles. 5L of liquid in a bag is a pain in the ass to handle.
@@SprocketHoles I might just decant stock solution into 5 1 liter sealed bottles as I'm reading shelf life is 6 months. I know from past experience I have wasted stock with larger poor quality containers.
I love videos like this! For C-41, I've been using the Cinestill kit or Unicolor if Cinestill is out of stock. The Fuji kit looks VERY appealing, especially if I can also get the solutions to last that long. I may have to make the switch. I've heard of people topping off not-full bottles of solution with a canned argon gas. Not sure if it works, but I bought a few cans from a brand called Bloxygen to try on freshly mixed chemicals this week. Also, for black and white I use Ilfosol-3 in one-shot batches. I used to pour the waste in spare plastic water bottles but I noticed it also leaks out! So now I store the black and white waste in massive glass jars. Thanks again for sharing your process!
I do use tetnal protectran spray for the half full ones but its effect is ok. I have had soultions go bad in plastic bottles with it.
@@SprocketHoles ah, good to know
Since you are one of the very few on YT who is 1) processing their own E-6 with (2) a full (Fuji) E-6 chemical system rather than the more common short-cut kits, I will presume to propose a video subject for you. Shoot one roll of E-6, preferably Ektachrome 100 or Provia for lack of color cast, of some color test charts with a grey scale, plus whatever else you like. Process one part of the roll in your Fuji full E-6 system. Process the other in one of the three bath kits, such as Cinestill or what have you. Compare the color accuracy, contrast, and relative lack of color cast in the grey scale. I'd really like to know just how close to accurate rendition, these corner-cutting kits go. I have been of the opinion that the kits do not track color terribly well, partly because the users are not so critical these days, and partly because slightly off-color results will be digitally ironed out in later image processing. However, I'm the first to admit that I may be blowing it out my A... (I don't do this for myself, as I use E-6 formulas which I compound myself, derived about 35 years ago with weeks of trial and error with a color densitometer. No one would get anything out of a comparison based on my personal E-6 variant.)
I know this video is old, but what would be the issue of using ordinary drink bottles, and just replacing the bottle every month or so, depending on how often you use those bottles at home? Soft drink bottles, detergent bottles, etc? Less often if there are no leaks.
I've used ordinary plastic drinks bottles that had fizzy water in them to store XTOL and C41 developers. I squeezed the bottle to remove the air and it worked fine. If you do this CLEARLY LABEL THE BOTTLE AND REMOVE THE OLD FOOD LABEL. You do not want someone to drink from it.
Thanks for this. I am wondering if glass bottles are better than plastic? I’m using the Ilford chemicals for black and white and in the tropics. Wonder can I store chemicals in fridge at low temperature?
Hey, I see this comment is 5 months old, but if you are still wondering, here's my take on this:
Glass bottles are better than plastic ones, since glass is less permeable. Less (or no) air will get in to cause chemical degradation.
When it comes to storing in the fridge, I'd recon the colder you store your chemicals, the better. Having said that, I wouldn't want to store it in the same fridge where food is stored, you really don't want to risk a chemical spill, or any other risk of food contamination.
How long do the working solutions last for the C-41 and E6 chemicals? Do you use it for a certain number of rolls then mix a new batch?
I use them for a set number of rolls and the mix a new set of working solutions. I have found the working solutions last pretty well, about 2-3ish months.
Friend, you are a saviour. I was looking into getting into the developing process at home, and the most affordable kit I could find was the same Fuji Hunt c41 kit you are showing here, but I was really anxious as to how I would store the chemicals since I am one person and don't want to waste a fortune every month on film. Thank you so much for the information and the video showcase of everything. Have you yet find the limit to the longevity of said chemicals or do you always end up using it before it goes bad?
So none of the chems have gone bad in the time it took me to us them. The part c of the kit that was stored "long term" was perfect when I opened it. I'm running another test were I mixed all 5L of the developer at once and stored it in sealed plastic bottles.
@@SprocketHoles Thank you for your response. I will try and store them according to this video and let’s hope they live long enough to be fully used. If you find any interesting results with your new test, maybe you can do another video of sorts! Cheers!