5 Ways To Improve Your Cheap Harbor Freight Shop Press
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- You asked for it, so here it is! In this video I show you 5 ways to improve your cheap Harbor Freight shop press and take it to the next level. Want to make your press faster? More user friendly? Safer? More convenient? Let's make some modifications and upgrades, I'll give you some ideas to modify your whole outlook on this cheap tool. Oh, and watch for a bonus at the end!
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Boxcar Rag by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
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The first modification I made to my Chinese press was to weld pieces of steel tubing, of the appropriate ID, between the pairs of front and back holes in the side channels. That way I don't have to fumble around looking to line the pin up with the back hole while I'm holding the heavy cross piece. Put the support pin in the front hole and it goes right through the back hole, every time.
Excellent idea
Carry a tape measure (or a scale) and measure the needed cross piece vertical clearance BEFORE picking up the item to be pressed off or on.
😊
What about a foot valve control for the air, it would leave both hands free to keep whatever you are working on steady.
Yes on this one. I did exactly that on mine. I like to have two hands on most of the projects. I also used a HF air over piston on my engine hoist.
I'd like to see a foot valve as well. It would be pretty convenient.
Harbor Freight also sells those.
S Moroz I did not know that. I was looking for one of those. Now I won’t have to look any longer. Now, if I can just remember what I wanted that for.
I like all these changes this guy made as well.
@@jake-hy2zb Do you have more info about what you did to your engine hoist? I'm very interested to learn more about that setup.
Make a catch box to go under the press. Put some cardboard or padding of some sort in the box. This will prevent the item being pressed out from being damaged when it hits the floor. This is really important if you are pushing a hardened broach to cut a keyway. If it falls through and hits the concrete floor your very expensive broach will be in two very expensive pieces.
Wouldn't that be two worthless pieces?
Metal Coffee Can...
Always have a cardboard box half full of rags for that reason. Makes it quiet too :)
Not cheap any more... I paid $149 for a 20 Ton before the plandemic... now more like $300...
I keep a 5gal. bucket half full of floor dry/kittie litter below my press to catch falling parts. Too, if you get a pneumatic foot valve your hands will be free to keep work in place.
On the table pins, I simply added a single spot weld bead to each pin so the pin is "stopped" at the hole in the upright. When moving the pins, just make sure the pin is rotated so that the weld spot is not at 12:00 and interfere with supporting the table. Thanks for the other tips!
What a bargain your vids are! Picked up a few nuggets in the first few minutes alone!!! I may be a dullard (so my wife informs me!), but I never in my 45 years of wrenching ever thought of "repurposing" old bike tires for vise jaw pads! And I LOVE to repurpose stuff!!! Genius! thanks!
Hey BJ. Drop a couple of small sheets of 3/4 inch plywood in the area between the fore-aft support legs and above your casters. They make a nice shelf to store my press blocks, plates, and metal scraps that are always handy when pressing odd shaped things. Also, when I am pressing, I tend to sit on a stool with one foot up off the floor. The plywood makes a handy footrest when I'm at the bar …. oops, I mean press.
The plates that come with the HF press are prone to cracking under pressure (seen it happen to someone, and had one let go on my own press.....it can be very ugly). By drilling those holes, you've now created 4 stress concentrations on each plate, which could lead to cracking under even less pressure than normal.
An alternative would be to take a piece of 1/4" plate, cut it in a square, and use J-B Weld or some other epoxy to attach it to the underside of the main plate. Since it's not load bearing, it doesn't have to be very strong, and doing it this way will keep the plates centered, without creating those stress concentrations.
What I done was weld a strip of flat bar on the edge of the bed where the plates fit down in between. The plates still slide left and right but can not move forward and back.
Mike, I'm guessing that the plates you mentioned are cast, like mine. I am really envying how those presses come equipped with rolled steel ones, now. I expect that they will bend, not shatter. Wish I could swap. Only a hundred or so more bucks from SWAG.
The press table has been mentioned as rocking in the Harbor Freight customer reviews, as my older, orange one does. Some guy, somewhere, needed to put a shim under one leg of his welding table. Sheesh, how many years, how many products? I think that the energy stored to press the tables flat before any work gets done is what contributes to the dramatic events following a cracked arbor plate. Two fails in one, by Harbor Freight. Haven't read of any lawsuits, although that guy on the SWAG website sure had a case.
@ neo 71665 Much better Idea
I set mine on 3/4 sheet of 1/4 plate iron and welded it then welded stabilizer to it
Couldn't you just add a flat metal bar to back of main frame. This would stop plates from sliding off
All good ideas. One thing that might be a tad bit more helpful would be to mount the square tube box (for the jack handles) higher. If its high enough the handles extend above the top of the press frame by a couple of inches you could grab the handles more quickly/positively/efficiently. Just a thought. Thanks for posting.
Nicely done! This was a really helpful mod video. These are excellent ideas and very well presented. Thank you so much for posting this and sharing these ideas. I'd already done the pins in the plates but now I plan to do some of these other mods as well. My choice was to drill and tap the holes for the plate pins - in case I ever needed to remove them.
And I plan to follow your lead with the pneumatic pump too - excellent idea! I agree with the others about the foot pedal being the best method. I'd been planning to do a swivel type of T handle on the valve but I really like your idea of the round wheel soooo much better! I think when I do the valve handle I'll tack on a short extension to the valve screw rather than grind away the jack platform. My bear paws need as good of access to that valve as possible.
Good stuff Tyler. Thanks again for the ideas!
I used to have that same press I like your improvements, but I have one more. My pet peeve was when I was working on something heavy or complicated and I needed to change the height, it was difficult to move the crossbar up or down without removing the work piece. I used mine to press bearings onto fairly long shafts so I had to adjust the height a lot. I wound up making a simple winch with two load lines one to each end of the bar. this allowed me to easily change the height while keeping the crossbar level and leaving the job inplace.
Great info. I'll be watching this video more than once!
A round disc on the bottom of the press plates works much better than the 4 pins. You can spin the plates rather than lifting them out to change apatures plus for those odd ball jobs you can jog the plates to make them fit the job. I hard mounted my air valve in a foot pedal to free up my hands. I did my handles basically like you. I made my pin stops with washers and short pieces of pipe as handles. I also made spacers to go on the pins to give a half step to the 6" Spalding in the frame. My release valve is getting an aluminium handle someday but the wooden handle works fine. It was a slug from hole sawing a hole in a piece of plywood. Hope this helps you and anyone else Good Luck!
Use 1/16" rubber strips to keep the plates from sliding. Much simpler and you can position the plates in any direction you need.
Thanks mate. Enjoyed the video and learnt a tip I didn't expect... Using an old tyre to protect metal parts in the Vice. It will always seem simple now but I learnt it here first. Thanks again!
Got my grandad's press frame. Was already going to replace the springs and jack that were damaged... Some damn good ideas here that will be implemented. Glad I watched the video and didn't buy the original style jack last month when I was there.
I've seen the pins done on the press plates on other videos. I like the idea; however I would not have pressed the pins in. I often stack my plates so I don't have to move the bed up, crank the jack down or dig through my bucket of spacer-widgets.
I would have made at least one of the plates with removable pins so they don't get in the way if you have to stack them.
I'm going to do both my plates with a socket-head bolt or All-thread. They only need to be finger tight. And if you somehow break one off - easy-peazy to replace!
And for my next trick - I'm going to make a set of plates out of Unobtanium so they float in mid-air! No more dropping on my foot! :)
The pins on the plates are a terrible idea, youre weakening the press plates,.
Great video ! I may try and talk my brother-in-law into going in on a press and your ideas will serve us well .
I made my own press with one of those Harbor Freight pneumatic jacks. And I added a foot valve on the floor so I can control it with my foot rather than the squeeze hand valve. Changes everything.
Great video man! You always put out the most informative videos! Keep em coming!! Oh and hello from Alabama!
This was the single best tool purchase that I have ever made -- but didn't know that I REALLY needed. I use this Chinese wonder for all kinds of things! I love it.
Mods coming shortly. As well as the sheet metal break kit from Swag off-road.
I've wanted to replace that valve on my press and cherry picker... You've given me the inspiration
Thread a female quick connect to the frame for your air valve. That way you can store it and quick disconnect it.
Very professional and instructional video.. well done
This is a freaking cool video. I don't even have a press yet, but now I never needed one so much.
Like your video,I made the same mods to my press many years ago,works fine how ever after only a year or so the air pump failed. On inspection I found the plastic piston had cracked in several pieces ,no problem,turned a new one from aluminum, the addition of an oiler in the air supply helps as well.
I like your mods to this. I just bought one and im going to use your valve idea as for the press blocks i picked up 3/8 threaded bar from home depot and I'm going to tap mine in since i have a tap and dye set. Thanks for the ideas!
I'm going to take some of your ideas and apply them to my press. Thanks! If it were me I would mount a magnet to the air valve. That way I can grab it when I need it, and slap it right back to the press frame when I don't!
One thing I did on my HF press was mount a manual winch similar to what would be found on a boat trailer, great for lifting the table with the arbor plates etc...
Would like to see how you set that up. Getting older, I have a hard time lifting the table with one hand while trying to move the pins with my other hand.
The method of using a boat-trailer winch on top to lift arbor plates into position IS ALSO COMMON TO LARGER COMMERCIAL & INDUSTRIALS presses. I'd consider this a win for a couple r easons; First the safety of lifting something below you center line, let's say your waist, can increase chance of.back injury. And second you can only assume how long you have to stand there holding onto a heavy object, get distracted, the phone chimes or rings and you awkwardly set a corner of that heavy plate against an edge of something else on your press😩 And it suddenly releases... Thanks again for good ideas as you have really sparked my interest to work on my press!
I want to thank you for making the video on this Harbor Freight press I just love it because we bought one about 6 months ago and it just seems like everything's laying everywhere love your videos keep up the good work
This was a very helpful video. Definitely will use these tips when I get a press.
Did the 20 ton pneumatic jack trick on my press about 15 years ago, but left the jack as is because use the jack to lift my motor home and truck.... Dozens of times over the years... Good tips! Thanks...
I would really like to see you do a foot pedal mod! Either an off-the-shelf pneumatic pedal or homemade housing for that one. Having both hands-free would be great.
I was thinking the same and knew someone had to have that thought also so I checked and here you are!!
You're really good at over complicating things.
nice job! now I have some work to do, I need to fix my press. thank you very much , Lloyd
We had many ideas in common although your approaches were different and a lot friendlier to the non-machinist. Nicely done.
I see that some others have posted about a foot valve, that sounds good too! I was thinking about a hand operated type valve mounted to the side. the only other improvement I see is, to put some better larger support steel on the base. I like the wheel idea, but I really think the metal that is included is just not heavy enough for moving is around that much. Doesn't look like there is much support in the center of those legs!! Good video!! At least I didn't notice that you were trying to talk over the music!! (and it didn't have that heavy bass booming sound! :) :) )
I bought the smaller one and turned it into a welding coupon testing bender i had to do some modifications to it along with a jig i built and the air powered jack instead of the pump it works so awesome
Good mods. I think I'll do these too. Thanks for the info!
Great tricks, I am definitely going to upgrade my press now. I personally wouldn't drill any holes into the press plates as that could weaken them. I will just tack on a piece of thin bar stock on both sides of the I beam the plates set on to keep the plates centered. Great video!
Genius! I remember my dad telling me the higher the lifting ability of a jack, the slow the lift. He told me this After I had bought a twelve ton jack.😀
You guys rock. Just love the videos.
I know that this video is a couple of years old now, But a quick and easy jack knob replacement that I have done on several of these presses (Mine included) is a knurled knob from McMaster Carr Part # 6333K22 for about $6 now. I open up the hole slightly with a drill slide on (after removing the old roll pin) and tighten the set screw which pretty much lines up with the old divot from the roll pin making it hold nicely.
When you have to remove tension spring try this trick. Extend the spring a suitable amount and grab yourself either some thin packers or even snip off some suitable pieces of steel banding strap from an old packing crate and slip between the coils. Fill up the gaps, you may need a decent handful of "packers" and then release the spring and it can only shorten itself until it has grabbed the packers. Effectively the spring ends up longer. It is especially useful when you have dismantled something and you have to install a strong tension spring on reassembly. Simply put the spring in a vice and slip thin packers between each coil, one at a time again and simply it makes the spring "longer". Then install the spring and simply pull out the packers, one at a time and job done. It works amazingly well. You may not be able to physically pull a spring out say 3/4' but you can pull it say 1/16' fairly easily.
Cool idea
I would have gone with a roll pin or hitch pin on the last suggestion but altogether great suggestions. I also added a shelf with a large bin at the bottom of mine to store all my plates and fittings so the worktop isnt rediculously heavy when I have to raise or lower it.
Did that about 4 years ago, works great. Wish they had a foot control so as to allow hands free to work on the things.
I have used some 1/16" x 1" flat to make D handles welded to the cradle bars. Keeps them from sliding through while also making it much easier to manipulate them. Also, I used a cable winch & pulleys to run the cradle up & down.
@14:55: bottom left....love the quick appearance and "Hello" of BleepinJeep Jr.!! 👍👍👍
Use a magnetic mig weld gun holder for the air compressor connection
The major improvement i made to mine was a boat winch on top with the strap modified ( loop sewn into middle instead of the end) and each end of strap goes down and bolts to the table part to lift/lower the table for different jobs
Great job! You've really increased the value of your press!!!!
Great video! The thing I always want is a way to raise and lower the bolster, (the load-bearing lower horizontal piece,) so the top is always horizontal. Large, (industrial, expensive,) ones I've seen have a simple hand-cranked boat winch that lifts the bolster with a separate cable and sheave arrangement that always keeps it horizontal. Just so we're clear, the cable, sheaves, and winch, do not carry press loads. They are only involved in raising, lowering, and holding the bolster so you can move the pins to their next position. Some cable sheaves, some cable, a cheap winch, a bit of welding or drilling, your choice, and you have a very convenient way to move the bolster. You can even skip the winch if your bolster is light enough. But the winch allows you to move the bolster with your press tooling and parts in place if needed. The hardware can be cheap garage door hardware, for lighter presses or better stuff for heavier presses.
Just watched a guy do this to his press.
Like the pin idea, on tip 6, I used 2 pieces of small angle iron, almost the width of the lower part (one on each side of the weights) bolted them down, so I can remove them if needed.
I bought the same press about 5 years ago, but, mine is orange. At the same time, I also bought the air/hydraulic jack for it, which, incidentally, is gray! I don't have a problem using the jack handle on the release valve, but, I also don't like things hanging loose. What I did for the handle sections was mount 2 of those spring clips that people use to hang brooms inside of closet doors. I drilled 2 holes in the side frame and attached them with sheet metal screws. For the air line, I drilled/tapped another hole and used a common "J" hook. I also didn't like the height adjustment pins sliding all the way through, so, I did basically the same as you except I welded washers about 1" in from the end so that I could still pull them out easily. I've never had a major problem with the press plates, but, that's an interesting mod that I'll think about doing.
Awesome vid, have the same press and will use this as a guide to mod it :)
The pins in the base plates is what I'm on right away. Thanks for sharing!
I've had my air control latch/lock engage when I didn't want it to so I removed it and its much safer #6
I built my own press with a HF air over hydraulic and added a foot pedal and the next biggest advancement was a winch that lifts the press table up and down so I can leave all the plates on the table and lift and lower as needed. Also machined adaptors that I can extend the rod coming down for length and with of the rod.
I know this is years too late but I just got my self that 20 ton press and think it is Poetry, that you are using the press you are improving to improve it by pressing the pins into those plates.!!!
great tips. but i would have used a magnet the hold the jack levers on the press.
make the pneumatic lever into a foot pedal that way your hands are both free to hold on to work pieces and it gets it out of the way
Because my garage shop space is super limited, i added a bunch of scrap wooden slats left to right between the angle irons, to give myself a platform for storing a heavy tool box. Since i also added wheels, this gives me a convenient way to move the tools around, and also lowers the center of gravity to reduce the chances of tipping over the hydraulic press.
Some really nice ideas. Thanks for creating this video!
Love the pneumatic press idea. Been thinking about it for a long time but would rather have electric over hydraulic. For the valve I would have just driven the pin out, cut a slot on the same end 90 degrees from the holes for the pin the stuck 1/2 the handle from the old table saw bolts in the slot and reinserted the pin. For the press plates you could have just laid them on the press and welded a piece of strap steel to the press on the outside of each plate so they're up against a shoulder. But I like it. Nice job.
Cool stuff and better
Keep thinking is worth it and every thing can be improved
I installed air over hyd
Could weld a short return hanging down off the back of the table to stop the pins going to far through. Then, stick a strong magnet on the back side of it and it will retain the pin from falling forward out if its hole.
You could use a magnet for the fine adjustment handle, too.
Take a marker and draw a line at the maximum distance of the rams push bar on the 2 side supports so you always know to set your item to be pressed above those marks. It makes it easier to figure out where to set the table height at.
Very cool mods, thanks for the ideas.
If you want your air nozzel to be mounted for gery cheap and be easy access and put away. Get some 5lb magnets and glue them to the frame to hold onto the air nozzle
I already did the wheels install & welded an arm on the release valve. The other thing i came up with is I bought a HF boat winch with the steel cable. I cut off most the cable, added a 2nd cable to the winch drum. Mounted the winch to the top of the press frame. I bolted pulleys to the top corners. Attached the cables to each end of the movable channels. Now i can raise & lower the channels safely using 1 hand and it stays level during the move. Next thing I'm doing is to drill pin holes between the existing pin holes to get more adjustment on the channels. Making the press more user friendly has vastly improved it's worth in my shop.
Thanks for the ideas!!
Yes sir. Exactly what I did with my press. I'm going to do the relief valve soon. Thanks for the idea.
This might be a simpler idea to do on that than what he went through. Try talking a small pair of voice grips that you don't mind permanently leaving it there. Then apply the vice grips at a 45°angle to provide enough clearance for a full 360° rotation.
@@danielwilkinson1024 ya, that would def work too
Those are some interesting ideas. I’ll have to keep them in mind. Thank you
Good evening family. Thank you very much for the valuable information and for your time 🙏
I'm in industrial maintenance mechanic we use a press just like that but we put a 20ton pneumatic
Jack on it makes it work really good
Nice @jimbos garage shout out with the music at the end. Great tips!!!
HI Mr Beepin Jeep , I have made most of the same mods = castors pin stops to keep my small tools & rods etc I use magnets from old woofer speakers inside the press channels , I like your work nice job thanks.
14:56 Hello!
At the beginning didnt put my money on this video, but I ended up watching carefully. Very good ideas. Comments also worth Gold. Thks.
I had the older orange HF 20 ton press, the beam that goes up and down had about 1/4 inch of slop on each side which causes the ram to not press evenly and the work piece would shift. I had a slab of nylon and on a table saw I cut out two blocks an channeled them so the bushing would lock over the ends of the beam removing the slack.
Clever ideas to improve a nice, inexpensive shop press. Thanks.
2 more MODs to consider. The cross piece that the ram sits on moves side to side at least 1/4", making it sloppy. I took mine off and added Delrin shims on each side to take out the slop and make it slide up and down smoother. I drilled and tapped a hole on each side and attached the shims with a recessed, beveled screw. Before I added the shims, I also welded some metal shims to tighten up the front to back slop. You could just drill and tap a bolt on each side to adjust the (1/4") slop out. The last MOD was to put the 2 press plates in my mill and surface both sides so they are flat. I did this before putting the locator studs in. As far as I can tell these plates are not plasma cut, they appear to be cast, therefore, at least on mine, they are not very flat. In fact, mine were lumpy as hell so milling them flat was a must so they didn't rock and were both flat and the same thickness. If you don't have access to a mill, at least sand them down with a belt sander.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
nice job i'm going too get one and and improve it thanks for the tips
Excellent upgrades!
Once that shop is complete I hope you start pumping out those videos. I've been itching for some overlander and tetanus videos
Same here
I like all the modifications that you did . I've been looking at the 20 ton Harbor Freight press and if I decide to purchase it I will be making those modifications to it . Great job. I'm also with 27dcx on using a foot pedal , this way it will keep your hands free just incase something goes south . Until next time take care .
22:28 If those are the cast plates that come with these presses, there are lots of info that says to throw these out before they break on you and replace them with steel plate. Swag Offroad has some nice ones.
I also think some hairpin cotter pins on the support rods on both sides might be better than a nut on one side.
Thanks for the video.
That pneumatic jack is a HUGE upgrade.
I welded a piece id 1/4" rod to my jack valve. Did the same thing on my engine hoist.
on the release I drifted the pin out and used a bolt and a piece of tubing to make a release handle, but did it with the valve in so I could index the handle to operate on the top, so the base doesn't interfere with the bleed off. I also used a short 1/4" nipple to extend it out, drilled a hole and drifted the pin through it and put the bolt tube on the ther end and indexed the holes in line.
use a 5/16" fender washer folded over the bleed valve screw, works great and easy to do
Hockey friction tape works great for keeping the plates from slipping. Couple strips along the cross bar and you’re good to go.
Also a few wraps on the end of the pins to keep the from sliding all the way through
I had this same thought, although I thought traction tape for a skateboard.
Nice video with good ideas. Thanks. I was wondering if you could have stacked the first plate you drilled on top of the second plate and ran the drill bit back through the holes to mark the second plate. After thinking about those plates a bit. I realized that the pins are a good idea but unless you want to drill more holes in the frame they restrict you as to where you can place the plates for odd shaped work. Maybe you could have drilled the bottom of the plates with a 3/4 or 1/2 inch bit to a depth of approx. 5/8 and recessed in some of those new round magnets that are very strong. That will allow you to place the plates in any position, held in place by the magnets. The magnet position is not as critical as the pins position. Check to see if the magnets are too strong making the plates hard to move. You may have to drill the magnet mounting holes deeper and recess the magnets below flush if they are too strong. You can secure the the magnets with silicone sealer or non hardening gasket maker to seal them in place. When you drill the holes to mount the magnets you may want to first drill a smaller 1/8 or so hole just intruding about a 1/16 into the larger hole. This will allow you to insert a pick or drill bit to pry the magnets out of the hole if you ever have to replace one of them. When I mount magnets this way I try to install them just below flush. That way I can brush the surface of the magnet with a light smear of grease before filling both the holes flush with silicone or non hardening gasket maker. This keeps small metal chips or filings from accumulating in the hole and then rusting on the magnet face. The chips still end up on the surface of the hole but can be wiped or brushed away because of the silicone covering. The grease keeps the silicone from sticking to the magnet when it cures and the small hole lets you still get the magnet out later if you need too.
Great video!👍🏻
Super useful video…you just gained a subscriber👍
The pneumatic conversion is a nice mod. For the pins I would just drill and tap the end and bolt on a fender washer. If you're concerned about it coming loose, a little loctite will prevent that. I just put the jack handles on top of the top cross member. It's made of two pieces of channel iron and the spacing between them is perfect to keep them from rolling off while giving perfect access to the handles.
I like your fender washer idea. Thanks!
Great video! My suggestion: You made the little container for the jack handle. Put longer bolts and add washers to the correct size so the valve sits between the two bolts and the hose hangs downward. Done. I have the smaller version of this press. I will weld my handle together so it's a single piece and put a pin on the side so that the handle can be stored there but is immediately accessible.
9:59 Love how you used da old tire-fabric to cushion da delicate part :D
Beautiful and nicely done. My brother added a foot pedal valve for his shop press. I have to find out where he got his. And I will let you know a.s.a.p.
Those were great! Thank you.
its called a magnet strip =), led light under the press,
The press is from harbor freight. Every other month they have a coupon for their blue magnetic LED light for free. I must have about 50 of them around the house. Leave a couple of them stuck up under your press.
Why put a light on it?
@@jsolo7576 presumably so you could see a foot switch or pump