Pelican Bass Raider 10E Modification
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- čas přidán 28. 02. 2020
- Took a lot of head scratching and standing back and staring to figure out just what I wanted to incorporate in this Mod., but in the end, it turned out customized to my style of fishing. I probably could have included other things like rod holders etc... But it's not how I fish. Comments and critics welcome alike. Thanks for viewing!
This is one of the best modded bass raiders I’ve seen
Thanks Fern, it's been a fun Mod. process. About to put it up for sale!
@@jimgreene8458 did you ever sell this boat?
@@felipecruz4509 Hi Felipe, Yep, it sold very quickly!
I guess I am kinda randomly asking but does anybody know of a good place to stream new series online?
@Rylan Emery I dunno I would suggest Flixportal. just google after it :) -armani
Looks awesome, Jim! Job well done!
Excellent job with a lot of innovative ideas and good craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing, Jim!
I hope to pick up my Bass Raider 10E this week. This video really helps and is well done!
Lots of thought went into your build! Kudos Sir !
I like it. Just bought one yesterday. Springs coming. Should be epic. 🎣
Very nice installation! Reading the comments below I wish the same thing...a play-by-play build as well. Thank you for sharing and the inspiration to modify my new 10e.
Very impressed with your work. Just bought a Bass Raider 10E yesterday, and put it on the water today. I love the boat. Looking forward to a few modifications to make it even better. Thanks for posting.
Nice clean installation, without having to put holes in the boat. I like it👍
Beautiful! was trying to find a video with dual casting decks as that’s what I was thinking of building.
Great job looks clean.
Great modifications!!!!!! Great video!!!
Awesome setup!👍
Have a Blessed Day!🙏🕊🐟
Nice job on the upgrades. 👍
Beautiful work!!
That is a great looking boat!
I would say is the best pelican bass raider I seen by far, great job..
Thanks!
Excellent mod all the way around!
i took my bass raider on the lake today after purchasing it today @ bass pro . I freakin love this boat! I am no longer a bank fisherman!! I have a minn kota trolling motor for now but will be adding front and back decks as well and eventually get an outboard motor as well cant wait!
Jim,
Fabulous build. I have a lot of questions but I’ll probably answer most of them by just getting into the shop and trying to fabricate this myself. But super clean, functional, and very good inspiration going forward. I appreciate the post and walk-thru. Feel free to share all the PBR content you want, there’s obviously a very hungry community of enthusiasts out there, myself included. Excellent craftsmanship.
Hi,
Thanks for the comments, it's always good to hear from everyone who loves modifying their Bass Raiders to their specific style of fishing. Take your time & try to think of everything you want before making any mods. Weight, weight weight!
Excellent job. Congrats. I may have to do a full front deck (I have a partial now) so you've given me something to consider.
Beautiful job!
Very nice setup
Looks pretty amazing.
Hi,
Thank you for the support! I had a fun time building the little boat up!
So cool , thanks for sharing.
I’ve watched 10-12 of these mods tonight and by far yours was the best. Most went too far in my opinion and others not far enough. You are spot on. They only change I’d make would be to use a more comfortable seat. That hard plastic will takes its toll on my old bones. Love the vid!
Hi Chuck,
Thanks for your comment. I think everyone who fishes has an idea of their "perfect" boat set-up. That's what's so neat about the Pelican Bass Raider. It can fit many types/styles of fishing & imaginations!
I agree with you on the "Old Bones" thing though!
Nice setup brother
I like this setup
I just bought my Pelican 10E last week. Been getting ideas and love yours so far. I believe I will have something similar. I have some ideas of my own also. Enjoyed the video.
Hope it helped, maybe some ideas?
would I need to build a support for the transom in order to use my suzuki 6hp outboard?
Awesome!
great looking setup.......go out and bring them in.
Nice job
I've posted a new update titled "Pelican Bass Raider 10E, Transducer", for anyone who might be interested in an option for installing your Fishfinder transducer. Thanks for watching!
Love it
Nice , gettin ideas
Thanks for the Ideas. I got a Vintage Sonton 5097616 Scent Dunker form EBay for USD 29.40 (including Tax & shipping).
Nice set up 👌
Thanks, it was a fun Mod.!
One constant complaint I keep hearing about the Pelican Bass Raider, is that it leaks water around the drain plugs in the front pontoons. If your plugs aren't or won't properly seat, that might be a contributing issue. However, that's not the primary source of water in your pontoons.... It's the rub-rails that allows most of the water to come in. The very first thing you must do when you get a Pelican Bass Raider, is to silicone seal both the top and bottom sides under the rub rails. There are a thousand staples holding the upper and lower halves of the boat together. When the boat is loaded it's going to sit low in the water, whether running or fishing. Water will come in through the rub-rails, there's no question. Sealant, sealant, sealant!!!!! In my opinion, this is the biggest design flaw of the boat. But, easily remedied!
@@jimgreene8458 thanks for the heads up. I've been weighing on either the Pelican bass raider or a 12ft Jon boat and I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the Pelican. So far all the reviews I've read are good. I will mainly use the boat for smaller lakes mainly for crappie fishing. Do you think this boat will be able to handle the Kansas/Missouri River or is that unsafe? Any insight will be greatly appreciated.
@@DUDEfreestyle The Pelican Bass Raider, when loaded down with gear & possibly 2 people will sit pretty low in the water. I think I'd be more comfortable in a boat with higher sides in the Missouri River. My issue is "current"! With a low sided boat, it can bite you quick in a current situation..
Looks great. I just got a Bass Raider but don't possess the necessary skills to do that to mine. Lol.
It just takes imagination & a love to create and enjoy fishing! You'd be surprised what you can do. You Tube is a great tutorial platform for learning to do projects you never dreamed you could do!
Man I need a list!!!!
Very very nice Bass Raider. Where can I get that trolling motor mount?
Hi Jim like your set up . I've been arguing with my brother about the rear courtesy light. In my state of Oklahoma the boating rules state that the rear light has to be 3 ft above the running lights. I know this is from 3 years ago I was just wondering what the rules were in your state
I like the dual casting decks with no holes in the boat. I wanna do something like this to my bass raider 10e
Hi Sean,
Thanks for the comments. FYI, be sure to do any mods based on how you fish! And take your time! I'm sure you'll be happy with the outcome. Good luck!
@@jimgreene8458
just curious about the motor.
I have a suzuki 6hp motor that weighs 52 pounds.
will I have to build a transom support ?
Where in Florida? My brother and I live just north of Panama City. We also own one and we slay fish in out boat. I dig the casting decks. Great idea with the rod holders.
Odessa
Great job! Do u have build video?
Man that looks awesome. I've only got a floor done so far on my 12' sun dolphin. I just started a deck on the front similar to yours. I really like how your deck sits on top of the edges. Gives you a little bit more room. I think I'm gonna copy your lead on that if you don't mind instead of having it sit down inside of the edges.
Mine came with wiring already installed for a battery and trolling motor. I think I'm going to end up running my own wiring. Not too fond of how they did it. What do you think of putting a compartment right in the center for one, possibly two batteries? My main concern in that idea was the weight distribution. I'm not planning on getting an outboard.
Instead I'm wanting to mount a solar panel where the outboard would go and just run off the trolling motor.
If you have any thoughts on it or suggestions I'd love to hear them.
Hi John
Thanks for your comments. The first thing I'd consider, is how you like to fish and what you want the boat to do for you. Especially with weight distribution. Mine came pre-wired for TM, but I ran a wiring harness from the batteries to all components under the flooring, so no exposed wiring. If you'd like, get up with me at: jgreene69@tampabay.rr.com & we can go further in depth.
Nice!!
Does the rear deck prevent, or at least help, with the outboard flexing the back of the boat?
Unfortunately, without making a terrible eye soar, these's nothing you can do about the flexing, but stay at 3.5 hp & less.
I hope you are light, seems like alot of wieght, what is in the floor? How is stability? Thanks
Looks good! all that wood makes alot of dead weight? I'm trying to find a way to hold my chairs down while going down the road 1 flew out a week ago and all I was going was 50 MPH and I was folded down and snapped even after I picked it up once it flew out. Any ideas on how to keep that from happening again?
Hi,
Well, securing the seats while trailering was something I incorporated in my mod. The seat rails slide under the casting decks front & rear, so I don't have that issue. And yes, any mods you make to a 10' boat, you must consider the weight trade-off.
wondering about your outboard motor.
I have the suzuki 6 hp. I can run it at half throttle. it weighs just 52 pounds.
would I need to build some kind of transom support, in your opinion?
Your casting decks appear to be about 2"" thick but I'm guessing they really aren't. Could you explain that. Maybe some banding around the edges of 3/4" plywood?
Good work! Extremely well thought out.
I actually used 1/2" plywood on top of 1"x1.75" framing, then attached 1/4" plywood on the underside of the framing. This gives it more structural strength, so vertical support framing was not needed. It took me about a week of staring at the boat, drawing it out, tearing that up and starting over when I'd think of another requirement or option I wanted to incorporate in the Mod. Thank you for your comment!
Great job Jim. Can you tell me if you made the trolling motor bracket? I’m trying to find the angle iron that’s like yours and coming up empty. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Paul,
You can purchase the exact T/M Bracket from Craigcat Boats out of Orlando Fla., but it's a little pricey..
@@jimgreene8458 thanks. I miss the Orlando area. Lived there for close to 14 years. Many hours on Conway, Lake Baldwin and surrounding lakes. Best fishing ever!
Do you mod other boats for people?
Just bought one of these was wondering if you could tell me the dimensions of your floor you installed
Hi Dustin,
Sure, the flooring is 3/8" plywood cut 20.5 " x 8' on my mod. This allow for carpet, so it's a real nice fit. Hope this helps!
Jim Greene thank you sir! 🎣
I love your build. About to start on mine and I am not much of a DYIer, but gonna give it my best shot. Anyway I could pick your brain in an email?
Nice work Jim! I just started on my mods. Can you explain how you caulked the rub rails? Did you just take the visible screws out and gently lift up the black soft plastic seal and squeeze it in? Or completely remove it. Thx
I was afraid removing the rub rails would only lead to more problems, so I used the silicone tube's nozzle and gently with my fingers pulled up on the black rubrail and injected the silicone as much as I could between the rail and where the two halves are stapled together. (Making sure that all staples where thoroughly saturated with silicone). I did this on both the upper & lower sides of the rubrail. Turned boat upside down did bottom, let dry for 24 hrs., then repeated on topside. Be sure to use clear pliable silicone! This is the weak point of this boat as far a water intrusion! Hope this helps with your project!
Jim Greene thank you for the reply, I was not aware and will be caulking my 10e! How has your fabricated bow transom held up? Really like what you’ve done and hope you make more 10e
content. Thx again
@@CA-sl2xw
If you're referring to the trolling motor mount, it's doing great. It allows the trolling motor to be a little further forward than the stock bow mounted position. When the trolling motor is operated to the left or right more than about 30 degrees, the prop wash is directed into one of the pontoons. If the trolling motor prop isn't lower than the pontoons, it is ineffective. Really frustrating!
Awesome work Jim. Can you tell us which silicone you used? I literally just picked one up today brand new and want to start with mods.
@@usarmyrgr5235 Hi Bobby,
I can't remember the brand name off hand, but I purchased it at Lowe's. Important parts are: Clear, Pliable, waterproof when cured.
Just bought one and was wondering your dimensions on your rear casting/battery box? Love your boat thanks for the videos.
Hi Nat,
I wish I could give you the specs on the rear deck/battery cover, but it was very complicated, involving alot of trimming & fitting with a 1.5" sander. It's pretty straight forward until you get to the rear contours of the boat. But up to that point, it's just a matter of deciding how much deck you want. Mine's not really intended to stand on, only to house electricals and rod hold downs, with a little storage. Just be aware that conventional batteries won't fit under the rear deck. I used 2 ea. smaller 80 amp batteries that fit in the space & they work just fine! Good luck & if you need anything, just give me a shout!
Jim
@@jimgreene8458 i appreciate it sir. How long have you been in the water for at once? Just seeing life of batterys. Thanks man for the videos.
@@nathanielabril2381
Hi Nat, I'm usually out for 5 hours or so, but I still have loads of battery life left. I use the on board charger every time I come in!
@@jimgreene8458 thanks man👊🏽
Hey Jim, I too am a fellow Floridian and have my Pelican on a modified Continental Kayak trailer.......but I don't have an outboard on mine...and I'd like to know how your load the boat back onto the trailer.....do you power load it as the bass boat guys do?....mine is a super-bitch to get back on the trailer especially in a crosswind.....I usually end up wading out to my crotch to get it on the trailer.....this is the only thing I don't like about my little Pelican....
Hi Bill, Yep, I power load mine with the outboard or trolling motor. I have my trailer set-up specifically to be able to do this.
Can you tell me what hardware you used for the front hook? Is that just an eye bolt? If so, is it wood behind the metal or is there plastic behind it? Trying to to poke too many holes in my plastic boat.
Yep, just used an eye bolt. The fewer holes, the better!
Looks great Jim! My buddy and I are just about done building our deck, How did you build the back deck would you be able to explain it? Perhaps some measurements if possible. Thanks again great looking boat!
The rear deck, although stout enough to stand on, was only meant to house the batteries, charger, switches etc... And to allow the rods to be secured. If I had it to do over again, I would make it about 4" longer front to rear, to move the weight just a bit forward. I'll try to post some still photos of the rear deck. As far as framework, it's not too different than the dimensions of the front deck framing. If you deck the rear, you're going to need low profile batteries, otherwise, the rear deck will be more elevated than the front deck. One big concern is, what motor you mount on the rear, ie.. electric/gas motor. You must allow for the clamping mechanism to function with the deck secured down. I put my forward hatch 3" too far forward, as it interferes with the forward trolling motor clamps. FYI, I would not recommend 2 people standing on front and rear casting decks on this boat..... Too unstable... Someone will go swimming eventually! Be mindful of the weight you add, because it tends to sit low in the water when loaded. One thing I did before any mods, was to completely clear silicone the entire rubrail top and bottom as this is notoriously where they tend to leak water. The top and bottom of the boat is only stapled together. And water tends to really compromise this area.
Good luck, I can't wait to see your finished version!
Jim Greene Thanks I’ll be posting a video in a couple weeks when I’m done with my boat deck. I probably won’t build the back deck if it compromises stability since I have a front deck built already.
@@dgalvan529
I really only built the rear deck to de-clutter all the batteries, wiring etc.. And to secure the rods. After years of tournament fishing I've learned that your fishing area needs to be as clean as possible, or you end up swimming eventually. But, with these little boats, weight is always a concern. Move it forward and you're standing in your nose when fishing. Move it back and you're going to be plowing when operating the gas motor. Compromise...….
Hey Jim I just posted my Casting Deck Build on my channel if your interested to see how it came out. Thanks
Do you a a video or plans for your deck? Excellent design
I didn't actually record "plans", because everything had to be custom trimmed to the contours of the boat itself. The only measurement that doesn't change is the distance of the seat "rail slots". Depending on your finish concept, it will change from there. I have some photos I'll try to post of stages. Hope this helps. Thanks for the reply!
I would also like to see some pictures of the stages! Been looking at mine for about a week with a sheet of wood on it trying to figure out what I’m going to do on the front deck. This is the most impressive one I’ve seen.
What gauge and thickness is your aluminum trolling motor mount?
you can purchase the trolling motor mount from "CraigCat boats...
Do you have plans for your decks?
Hi, J Bay,
I didn't video tape my actual deck "build" because it was a lot of tedious contouring of the under side of the decking with a 1.5" belt sander, so it would be a stable fit. But I'll give a shout out to "MaxCast Fishing", Pelican Bass Raider 10E: Casting deck Build, for some basic supplies & measurements of his build. As far as the basic framework & measurements are concerned you can get a basic idea of what you need to start with. But, you still may want to deviate as necessary when it comes to your "custom" buildout. His initial measurements are very close to what I started out with on the forward deck build. Where mine differs, is I used 1/2" ply on the top and sandwiched the framing with 3/8" ply on the underside. Makes it much more rigid. Hope this helps.
You got a great name Jim this is Jim and I need to ask you how did you hold the floors down
The front & rear casting decks are secured to the motor mounting pads via the existing bolt holes. The decks are then attached to the floor. This way I avoided any new drilled holes in my boat...
Can you exsplain or have a blueprint for the build. I feel it will work reall well for me
Hi Wesley,
I'm sorry, but I didn't do any day to day videos of my Pelican Mod. At the time I was designing/building my modifications, it never occurred to me that someone might have a need for that. But you can visit "Max Casting" Pelican Mod. instruction video, to get a rough idea of the framing/deck construction concept that any decking mod. must be started from on a Pelican Bass Raider 10E and tweek it from there to meet your specific ideas. But, no matter what you do, be sure to put a lot of time in the thought process of incorporating "everything" you want in your final end result, ie… lights, electronics, wiring, battery, radios, trolling motor, etc.... Because you must keep all this in mind as you build. The last thing you want to do is to get 3/4 of the way through your build and realize that you didn't allow for this or that. An example is my rear deck. I got all the way to the carpet stage, only to realize that my design prevented me from using a rear mounted trolling motor due to clamp clearance issues.
Keep me up to date on your mod., I really enjoy the creative process!
@@jimgreene8458 That sir, is a perfect reply! I just finished a cap off restoration on a boat, i will second the statement, " make sure you think about it!" I wouldn't be surprised, if I have 3 or 4 times as much time spent researching/thinking, as building.
did you have to beef up the transom for your outboard?
Hi James, I did add a 1/2" thick sheet of starboard to the back of my rear motor mount, but it was to get that 1/2" setback so my outboard would clear the rubrail. I suppose it helps beef it up a little. You surely don't want to exceed the hp rating. Once you go over 3.5 hp, you increase the motor weight drastically!
does the chairs come with?
Yes David, when you purchase the boat new, the chairs & frames come with it.
What shaft length is your outboard motor?
Short shaft!
I'd really like to set up my bass raider this way. Could you provide more details,Thanks!
I'm sorry, but I didn't make any videos of the actual build, best I can do is sell you the boat!
@@jimgreene8458 Thanks anyway!!
this is the perfect set up, would like to see an installation vid if you have, also, how fast does that thing go?? lol
Sorry Brad,
I didn't make any videos of the construction. Only goes about 8-9 MPH..
Where did you get the bow mount trolling motor bracket, thanks
You can order one from "Craigcat Boats".
Jim Jim! I was wondering...since you didn't screw to the boat anywhere, how do you keep the decks from flying off when your towing to the lake? I'm guessing the seats stay put because the legs of the seats are under the casting decks. Thanks man!
Hi Pat
I put a 3/8" plywood floor in the bottom, so both decks are attached to it, plus the front deck is screwed into the Trolling motor bracket and the rear deck is attached to the rear trolling motor bracket. This holds everything down without actually drilling into the hull itself. And yes, the seats are held captive by the decks for and aft. Hope this helps!
@@jimgreene8458 - thank you do much for the answer. You did very nice work.
Not understanding how you attached the decks to the floor. I'd rather not drill holes in a plastic boat either, lol.
The floor is attached to the vertical deck framing, which is attached to the forward & aft trolling motor mounts. I used the existing bolt holes in the mounts for the attachments. This way, no new holes were needed. Hope this helps!