2 piece rear main seal - Ford 302
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2021
- On my 1975 Bronco, Ford used a two piece rear main seal. This is what I bought:
✅ Main Seal: amzn.to/39snGHX
✅ Oil Pan Gasket: amzn.to/2PJBgzL
I went with the felpro rear main seal gasket, and oil pan gasket. If you have a newer Ford 302 engine or an explorer swap, you’ll have a one piece seal and will likely have to pull the engine to replace this. But, if you have a late model Ford 302 on a Mustang, F100, or Bronco, this is the process you will need to follow for how to remove and replace a rear main seal.
I’ve already pulled my transmission to have it rebuilt. So this gives me better access to the rear main seal. You do not have to remove the transmission to do this, but I needed to rebuild my transmission, so I thought I would get this job done as well.
How to replace the two piece rear main seal on a Ford 302:
1:55 - Drain the Oil out of the engine
2:06 - Remove Trac Bar for more room
2:24 - Remove the Oil Pan
- Remove starter
- Remove transmission (If needed) - • Ford C4 Transmission r...
2:46 - Remove Rear main cap bolts
3:30 - Remove rear main seal
7:15 - Install new seal in engine block
9:06 - Loosen Crankshaft cap bolts if the seal isn't sliding in
9:30 - Install new seal in rear main cap
10:46 - put a light layer of RTV on cap
11:37 - Put rear main cap back in and tighten bolts to 50ftlb
- Move transmission back (if it was removed)
12:01 - Reinstall Oil pan
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Thanks. I need to do mine now. Appreciate you taking the time to video the process
I dont have a Bronco I just like watching his video's.
Ha! Thank you
Thanks. Not a lot on this type of seal.
8:21 'just pulled it out to make sure it i'm not shaving off any rubber" that's what he said!8:32 "it's just a little bit tighter than the last one"I'll let you answer this one lol,i'm here all week!
Hahahaha!!!!
Nice!!
What torque did you torque the main bearing caps to?
Old school 👍😁
👍🏼
Love the videos and detail included! Did you add any rtv on the rubber oil pan gasket or is that not needed with that gasket? It looks like the felpro rubber valve cover gaskets to are basically reusable.
I did add RTV to the corners of the block where the gasket turns. I should have shown that
I never had succes with in situ rear oil seal replacement, what I learned is when an engines initially is equipped with a rope style rear oil seal, the best thing to do is to reinstall a rope style oil, the rope style oil seal is much less difficult to make oil tight that a rubber style oil seal.
Great tip!
Grinder to the channel where the seal is supposed to be? WTH. Why would u do that when it isnt meant to just slide riggt out of the channel?
There is not sliding with the seal. It’s tight in there. Tight. So tight.
Tap the pin out with a punch not a grinder
That would have been the smart thing to do
That pin also keeps the seal in place so it doesn’t spin / move. The same reason the bearings have a “notch”…
@@robaxelsson530 yeah that's right it's to hold the rope seal in place but you have to remove the pin as the neoprene seal is to hard and the pin won't penetrate the seal
@@michaelvrckoff6966 so the newer style seals don’t need the pin. Remove it?
Correct
oh man did i just watch an angle grinder in the main seal groove 😮
Theres better flange sealants for the job, but should clean those surfaces with brake clean and dab some rtv on seal ends as well. That retaining pin is there for a reason, maybe best to tap back then restake when installed?
Probably better than grinding it out.
So it looks like I might have to perform this repair as well. I was told that the engine has to be disconnected from the transmission and removed to do this. After your experience, do you think that pulling the engine is necessary, or was your repair from underneath a success?
Also, how long did the entire job take you?
I don’t remember how long it took, but I think it could be done in less than a day. No need to pull the engine on the Bronco.
It will if 1 piece seal… depends on year
@@torkrench I already know it’s a 2 piece seal like the video. This was also 2 years ago, and I ended up having a late detonation that blew apart #6 piston skirt, and had to replace my engine core with a remanufactured period correct block. It also was a 2 piece seal.
While the 2 piece seal seems like a pain in the ass, still not as nearly labor intensive as the 1 piece seal.
You make it look simple, did it stop the leak? Thanks good video.
Thank you! It did!
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco good deal, i have to do mine.
John lighting was bad under the Bronco and didn’t have a good camera angle to see what you were doing. For us who have no idea what is involved i wished I could have had a better view.
It’s true! It was so hard to see!
“That was way easier than I thought it was going to be” is not something I often hear or experience
Haha! Right!
Punch out the pin in the rear main cap from the outside of the cap.
Nice job !
Thank you!
Maybe next time spend 2 minutes to put a light underneath the vehicle so I can actually see what you are doing :)
Did it work ?
Yep!
Dude, when I saw you take that grinding wheel to that cap, I decided immediately to never watch any of your videos again. Good luck.
I would have replaced that rear bearing......I tend to overdo it sometimes.
bearings don't work like that.
@@justthinkalittle8913 you obviously are not able to read the wear pattern on that bearing......it can be reused, but I would have replaced it because I guarantee you there is at least .003 wear on it. Cheap insurance given the little expense and time involved. My statement is based on 45 years experience in the auto trade.
Punch the pin out! Never use a grinder
Yea he messed up