Rear Main Seal Replacement Ford Bronco F150 | E4OD Transmission Removal | Bronco Restoration
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Hello,
This video shows how to remove the transmission under vehicle to be able to replace the engine rear main seal. The truck shown in this video is a 1990 Ford Bronco with the 5.8L engine and E4OD transmission. A good transmission jack is highly recommended.
Links:
Rear Seal (Rubber): amzn.to/44NCCuk
Rear Seal (Teflon): amzn.to/44MGlbO
Repair Sleeve: amzn.to/43q970M
Torque Converter: ebay.us/hS3VDR
Tool Kit: amzn.to/46Ori32
Transmission Jack: amzn.to/44rmq2g
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Truck Specs:
1990 Ford Bronco
Eddie Bauer Trim package
Black with Tan exterior
Saddle color interior
5.8L 351 Windsor engine
E4OD 4 Speed overdrive Transmission
Manual on the Fly 4x4
3.55 Dana 44 Front Axle w/Manual hubs
3.55 Ford 8.8 Read end
15" Alcoa Aluminum wheels
31" BFG All terrain tires
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Bronco Videos Playlist:
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This was a job, I do recommend incorporating other fixes while the transmission and engine are separated. Let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair.
Would it be possible to also do the oil pan gasket during this job or does the engine have to be removed? 1995 EB 351w
Yes, it would be best to reconnect the transmission to the block and secure with bolts, then lift engine off the motor mounts, stick wooden blocks between the engine and motor mounts. With everything else out of the way the oil pan will slide out. I regretted not doing so, but had to complete the video. For the 351 you will have to remove the upper intake plenum to lift engine high enough.
@@TheFixTechAlso, if I’m not mistaking; You need to remove the transmission shift linkage and even jack the transmission up slightly. The shroud will get removed as well. You have to be very careful when lifting the motor and keep good attention on the transmission cooler lines that you don’t over flex them or interfere. Once the bolts are off the pan you can slide it out only so much. Most people typically have to remove the oil pump that way the pan can slide out.
It really is a disaster of a job and design.
Great videos, keep up the good work.
And yes, as you said with the 351 most people have no hope debolting exhaust. What many people have to unfortunately do is cut out the exhaust that runs under the pan and then either flange/clamp it back together. Or if you’re a good welder by all means lol! Some people take the whole manifold off… good luck with that out east.. I don’t even want to imagine how many bolts would just snap.
I wish my truck was that clean underneath
Thank you for making this video! You showed everything with details that could help anyone looking to do this job. 👍🏻
Excellent video ! Very clear and concise instructions without all of the fluff that a lot of other videos have. I also appreciate the time you took to have well placed lighting with steady video and very clear audio. Nice job 👍
Also, can you please add the information for the torque converter that you used in the video ?
I updated the description with a link to the torque converter. This is for the E4OD transmission, it is a 2000rpm (high stall) which is a factory replacement. Interchange part number F59HS
These videos are great! Love them… but now I need you to get a 95’ f150, 4.9L, short wheel base, 2wd… and I can watch exactly how to do anything I want to tackle on the truck my sons and I are tinkering on, lol… thanks for the videos dude!
Thank you for another great how-to video!
One safety note for those watching, make sure to chalk your wheels and engage parking brake when doing this kind of work. I've made the mistake myself of getting caught up in the process of fixing a driveshaft and forgetting this important step. Having a vehicle roll with you under it is no fun.
Your videos have been very helpful and well done.
Great tip!
😊😊😊....Dude, you are the Best...Like others have said...So concise, even a Caveman can do it...👍👍
Thank you!
@@TheFixTech Much oblige...
You've got theses how to videos down man. The right amount of instruction and wrenching. I appreciate the time you take for editing. Great job and much appreciation.
Thank you.
recently bought a 96 bronco and I have almost all your bronco videos saved lol thank you so much
Glad to help
Excellent Video!
Thank you very much!
Perfect from beginning to end.
Thank you
cant wait for u to do the oil pan gasket
Buen video amigo lo mejor que han sacado en sellos para resolver el problema del cuello del siguenal
I can't wait to see how you remove the valve covers. I'm literally on the same boat and pace in terms of restoration! Great job!
Thanks, I will also be incorporating other fixes in that video. Coming soon.
All your videos are top tier and so informative. I️ have a 91 with the same drivetrain I’ll have to do this to. Thank you for the great for content 👍
Excellent. Going to change the oil pan gasket while I'm down there too. And the 4wd engagement motor. Mines iffy, especially in Winter when I need it most. Fords. Gotta luv 'em! Subscribed.
Ford notoriously for main seal leaks one has to do with excess main bearing clearance and the seals getting hard.
Awesome video and very well detailed. Personally I would stay AWAY from the Teflon Seals and use a Rubber Seal with a Repair Sleeve. Teflon seals are notorious for cracking and degrading fast due to them being a much harder/stiffer material and they also like to gouge the crank shaft over time which is why 90% of the time you need a repair sleeve is due to the teflon seals eating into the crank.
Super clean as always.
Appreciate that
Excellent video. Thanks for your time and instruction on this.
Nice video! Well done, you always do an outstanding job!
Thank you.
Man you make it look easy!!!!! But it’s not!!!!! 😅😅😅😅
Another great video!
Exactly what i need to do but I'm so freaked out about all the things that can go wrong. ( rusted bolts, broken books, stripped threads, ect...)
Your video is giving me the confidence tho.
Could you possibly do a video on troubleshooting intermittent stalling?
I can't figure it out.
Thanks again!
Usually the intermittent stalling will be caused by a bad egr system. I do have a video on that system. Also could be bad fuel pump and ecm relays, replace both.
Great video, thanks.
Thanks so much for the videos man
My pleasure!
Nice Job.
Thanks for the visit
Can you do a video of deleting all of the emissions canisters/ system? I have a 91 and want to remove all of that. But curious to see how you bypass the electronics and hardliners into the back of the engine. Also would help to clear out space in the engine bay of unnecessary parts.
My choice of preference to delete those hard liners is to upgrade the heads to ones that do not have those ports, otherwise you can simply plug the holes with a thermactor plug. If the stock engine is to be used then I do recommend keep the original emissions system for best MPGs and stock performance. Otherwise the best way to delete any emissions is to remove the components and tune the ecm.
@@TheFixTech thanks for the reply. They don’t make any replacement emissions parts!
Is dropping the trans easier than lifting out the engine? The 5.8 in my 96 Bronco has good compression but has some pretty bad oil and coolant leaks. I have worked through several vacuum leaks (P1071/1074) but it still has a misfire in cyl 4, so I pulled both manifolds and having the injectors cleaned as we discussed. When it runs right, I was considering pulling the engine to replace the rear main, oil pan gasket, freeze plugs, exh manifolds, and hoses. Thanks
I would pull the engine out if you need to seal engine/coolant leaks as there are some freeze plugs that can be hard to reach. The trans does come out very smoothly if you are using a decent trans jack (like the one shown in the video). Make sure you have the correct ignition module for your truck.
Damn dude you are an expert mechanic props! Realistically is this a job that an average wrencher could do?
With the proper tools it is easier than it looks. The transmission jack works wonders and these trucks can fit dinosaurs under them
What size of engine does this broco have, my Mecerury and crown vic both have the 302s and ive replaced both rear rear seals on both cars, but i see you didnt put any thread sealer on you flywheel bolts when you reinstalled your flywheel, you should of done this, of as they are kniwn leak from the main crank once theyve been removed, great video, ✌️👍
Thanks for the advise, this engine is the 5.8 351 Windsor.
is this a good time to install headers?
90 Bronco here I bought it and had a mechanic do an engine overhaul, 5 years later I had a mechanic do a transmission overhaul he told me I had a 2 piece rear main seal?😮
Did you bring the trans and transfer case down as one?
Yes, both together as a unit
so the teflon rear main seal installer comes off after it slides onto the rear of the crankshaft. Never used one of these style. New to me.
Yes, it is very important to use the plastic installer sleeve to slide the Teflon seal into place. It is also recommended not to remove the seal from the sleeve prior to installation as the seal will deform.
It's metal on metal, what prevents oil from leaking between the new sleeve and the crankshaft??
It’s a press on fit, must be tapped into place and does form a solid seal. I have used these a few times with no issues. The Teflon seal is a good choice as well.
Sir were do you live in in Dallas, I need your mechanic services if you are in my area… I have literally no time to work on my truck.
I hear a tiny squeal i think is coming from my flexplate. I hear it while idling and going below 20. Can i spray any lubricant on flexplate? 93 bronco new engine and rebuilt transmission 3 years ago
Is it an automatic or manual? If manual it is usually the throw out bearing. If an auto, remove the flexplate/torque converter cover, if the squeak is more prominent then torque converter would be a suspect. Check trans fluid for any burnt smell or shavings.
@@TheFixTech its auto im missing the flexplate lower cover. Do you have email i can send video of it?
I forgot to mention it’s a 5.8 351W
That only took 20 minutes, it would take me 2 weeks