How to Remove Ford F150 5.0 Upper Intake Manifold + Replace EGR Tube
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- čas přidán 14. 03. 2021
- Here's how to remove the upper intake manifold on a 5.0L V8 in a OBS F150. The process is very similar to removing the intake manifold from the 5.8/351 engine. You will need to do this to replace the left bank of fuel injectors, replace the EGR tube, remove the left cylinder head, and to work in the lower intake manifold. Consider painting the intake plenum when you have it out.
#f150 #302 #intakemanifold
Here is the link to the intake manifold gaskets👇
🚧 www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...
🚧 www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Valve-Tu...
To remove the upper intake manifold or intake plenum, you need to unplugged all the vacuum lines going to the vacuum tree and EGR (exhaust gas recirculation valve). Unbolt the throttle body or TB from the intake plenum. It’s held on with 4 bolts. You will also need to disconnect the throttle linkage and a mounting plate for a sensor. There is also a support on the passenger side that needs to be removed as well. Next comes the slightly more difficult part. You will need to remove 8 bolts from the base of the intake plenum. All of the bolts are fairly easy to access accept for one in the middle of the plenum slightly under the runners. You will need a very long torque/torx/star bit to unscrew this bolt. A very star L key can do the trick or a long bit driver for a hex impact gun will help reach that bolt. Once that bolt is removed the plenum should come right out. The install is the reverse of this process. Just make sure you plug or cover the lower intake runners so nothing falls into them. If a bolt or nut fell down one of the runners, than the engine would need to be rebuilt. Or at least broken down a bit to fish it out.
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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You might not get loads of views but thank you for helping me fix my 1992 Ford f150
Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out! Nice! Keep her running!
1yr later..51,000 views👍 helping thousands of people
Watching this video because..... it contains the baby steps on how to get to the cylinder heads to replace the head gaskets. Appreciate ya Stevie!
You are most welcome man!🤙 I’m glad the video helped you out!
This is the first time I've seen the plenum off. You make it look easy. The thin socket is a super help. Thanks for the video.
Honestly, it’s not really that hard if you know the steps. Yes, the thin socket is the key to making this repair successful. You’re welcome man!🤙
I just want to say thank you so much for your videos. I’m working on my ‘91 f150 and I have figured out so much with your help!!
You are most welcome!🤙
Cannot say thank you enough for these videos. Helping me get my 90 f150 back on the road 🙏🙏🙏🙏
You’re welcome man! 🤙 I’m glad they can help you out!
Brother this was a timely video. Thank you for taking the time to make it and put it up. Mice had a field day with the fuel injector wires on the left bank fuel injectors. I'm replacing that tube whil I'm there after seeing this. Two Thumbs up and thanks.
No problem man!🤙 I love doing this for you guys. That sucks, but once the plenum is off you can repair the harness easily! If you can, have your injectors cleaned or replace them. You’re probably work fine but it’s always nice to know they are clean.
Thanks man! I appreciate it. By the way, I make lots of videos for this year of truck. Feel free to check them out.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the info. I love this 93 F-150 that 5.0 is the one all the Mustang boys want. Lol
@@Itsjustbeau No problem man!🤙 Oh you bet they want it! The 5.0 is a classic Ford engine with great sound and good muscle.
Thank you for sharing this. I want to replace injectors, delete egr and replace valve cover gaskets. Very helpful video!
No problem Joel! 🤙 It’s a good time to do all that work.
Did this job today on my bronco, new favorite CZcamsr
Nice!
Thanks man!🤙
Nice job showing everything. I came across the video looking to remove & replace the headers/exhaust manifolds.
Thanks Wil!🤙 I wish I had filmed the remove/replace of my exhaust headers but I had the engine out. Although, I do have a video explain the process to removed a snapped off exhaust manifold stud.
Just completed. Really appreciate the video. I’ll add: if you don’t get the pipe w the flexible mid section make sure you line it up close to where the EGR will mate. I went with the solid tube as I’ve seen all the failures occurring at the flexible midsection.
No problem man!🤙 Yes, good point! You definitely want to line it up just right. Mine broke at the flex joint too. Definitely a design flaw.
My son and I watched this video before we started our job but we can’t get the tube to line up to the valve. Both tubes were the straight tube without the accordion section. Has anyone else had this problem??
excellent video. No deviation between what you filmed, and what i encountered.
Thanks Ron!🤙 I appreciate it! Thank you for watching!
I just needed to spray it with a squirt of pb blaster 48hrs ahead of trying to break it loose on my 95. Looked just as rust welded on as yours but came free real easy first time ever.
Nice! PB always does the trick!🤙
Nice video Steve, thanks for posting good to know
Thanks Nick!🤙 I appreciate it! No problem!
Awesome as always!
Thanks John!🤙 I appreciate it!
Thank you for these videos. They have been a tremendous help.
You’re welcome!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I just replaced the gasket for the plenum. Your video helped me figure it out without hassle. I have also used your other videos for the same purpose-with much success. So, again, thank you.
Stevie, you’re amazing dude! Question how did you figure out the EGR tube was leaking? can you hear it ? I have an exhaust smell in the cab especially when the heat or AC is on.
@@stevencallaway3777 I could definitely smell it and then I think I spotted smoke coming from under the plenum.
Great job on this video.
Thanks again Mark!🤙
Thanks man! glad i found out about that T40.
You’re welcome!🤙
i have a Ford 1987 EFI long Bed 8 Feet.. this video is awesome
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
Gracias, tu video me ayudo para desinstalar los inyectores de una Bronco
¡De nada Samuel!
Thanks for the guide
You’re welcome!🤙
Great video. Thank u. Just did the same job.
Thanks man!🤙
You’re welcome!
Yo next time record tightening the low torque spec bolts, cuz I would just copy you. The manifold bolts were originally not tight! Ya know
Perfect instructions and tips- haynes is jealous👍 of a do it yourselfer like you.
Good idea! Will do!🤙
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
About time someone posted a video on how to do this!! Thank you. One question what is the thing on your firewall that says jegs on it looks like some type of filter?
Thanks Johnny!🤙 Yup, that’s an oil catch can for the crankcase vent on the side of the oil filler cap. The crank case vent into the intake tube via a rubber hose. Sometimes blow by oil makes its way up that hose and into your intake tube. So that filter captures all of that. I’ve since gotten rid of that Jegs version and gone with a Mishimoto model that’s mounted to the side of the intake Plenum.
Thank you for this
No problem Ally!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out!
Nice job man
Thanks man!🤙
Great video
Thanks man!🤙
Thank you!
You’re welcome!🤙
Thanks man that’s awesome. Something else I needed to replace but didn’t feel like doing.
No problem man!🤙 I’m glad you enjoyed it! Yeah it looks like daunting job but it’s not bad at all. You should definitely try it.
@@TheMinuteMasters 93 and when I took my EGR valve off to see if it was clean whatever I noticed that my tube was really loose just like yours was so is that supposed to be a solid I mean just real tight right there you know not moving at all like that because mine moves real easy like yours did so I think you just help me find my problem thank you my friend
4:46 what sensor is that you touched?
Awesome video, thanks for all of your content. One question I have is how did you cut the EGR pipe without throwing sparks everywhere?
Thanks Ruben!🤙 I appreciate you taking the time to watch my videos! I’m glad you like them. The EGR tube on my truck was cracked in two pieces. Otherwise, you have to unbolt at least one end.
Probably using a pipe cutter or very careful use of a reciprocating saw
i didnt see how you put the T40 bolt back ..I'm sure you had to reach under the intake some how to put it back ....Great video just wish some of you who show videos for us would show more on the difficult part on taking things off or back on ...Keep the videos going ....Do you have a video on changing wheel bearings
Yeah I could get my camera in a good spot for the reinstall of the T-40. I believe I reached under the plenum to set the bolt in place and used my T-40 drive with extension to get it lined up and screwed in.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate you watching! I don’t have a video on how to change the wheel bearings. I bought new hubs years ago which had the bearing races in them. So it was pretty simple. When I am do for bearings though, I’ll be sure to film it this time.
Good show
Thanks man!🤙
Where did you get the braided egr tube heat shield sleeve from? Mine is falling apart. Not sure if it would be ok to use exhaust wrap on the egr tube or not.
The new EGR tube came with it. Not sure how important it is. You could in theory use exhaust wrap.
The age of the internet. It's so nice to learn how to do this stuff. I'd rather do it myself than I know it's getting done right. Thanks for the video!
You’re welcome man!🤙
Good job 👏🏼 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼My friend 💯 💯💯💯
Thanks Man!🤙
Hi Steve! First off big thanks and love the videos! I have a ‘95 XLT, so they have been tremendously helpful. Regarding this particular video, my egr tube has two smaller lines coming out of it, does the replacement tube need to also have these? Again thanks!
You are most welcome Ramon!🤙 Thanks for watching them.
My EGR tube is just a straight piece of pipe with no additional tubes coming off of it. Where do those other lines go?
@@TheMinuteMasters Turned out to be EGR pressure sensor. Recently took out engine/transmission to redo seals, gaskets and pretty much all other systems while out and with the space👌🏼 but I wasn’t the one to take off the plenum haha so I was a little lost, but I do appreciate ya, you engine removal was my first watch
@@ramontrevinojr1857 Ah! I see. I don’t have that. I’m glad you got it figured out.
Nice! Redoing the seals is great! It makes it feel like a new engine. Sweet! I appreciate it!🤙
Nice video.
The thing I don't understand is the EGR valves systems I see everyone working on have (like your system) the electronic portion on top of the EGR valve. Mine is a 96 4*4 XLT and doesn't have the electronic solenoid (?) On the EGR valve. Even Haynes manual shows them with the electronic type.
What gives?
Thanks man!🤙
Really? I don’t know why that is. I wonder if they improved the system in 96. That or the previous owner deleted it.
This is my next job I bought all the gaskets probably gonna pull the upper intake off clean it really good paint the intake again and repaint the valve covers old Ford blue I replace the PCV valve not so long ago
Nice! I wish I had the time to paint my intake and valve covers.
It runs much better after I cleaned up the inside of the intake. It was pretty Carmen that I would love to send you the photo of what I painted. It’s not perfect but good enough for me.
i really appreciate the video , it will help me. im just curious why you didnt just do a delete on the smog parts?
I’m keeping all of my smog parts because for the moment, they still work. Once they stop working, I’ll do a smog delete.
So while I was taking off my egr tube the nut that’s 15/16 didnt seperate from the connector and pulled the whole like thread thing out. Is this a problem ? Doesn’t seem like anything is cracked as far as I know. The piece that pulled off the engine block is what you screw the end of the EGR tube into type shit
Gotcha. Yeah, you’re probably going to need those threads to screw a new EGR tube into. I would investigate how that threaded portion attaches to the lower intake manifold.
I'm new to your channel and man so helpful I've recently snapped my thermostat housing bolt in the intake and am now looking to replace the lower intake do you have a video of that
Welcome Eric! I don’t have a video on that but have you tried extracting the bolt? Using a welder is the best method. I know that means you have to own a welder or at least get your truck to someone who has but it could save you time and money.
@@TheMinuteMasters I did welded it 3 times failed 3 times alright all good
@@ericcammel3463 Yeah the weld thing is tricky. It took my probably 5-6 attempts to get a header stud out from the block. It’s definitely harder than it looks. I held a nut over the stud (broken off flush) and built up a pool of weld inside the nut. The initial pull on the trigger is tacking the nut to the stud. Then I fill the nut. Believe it or not the heat for me trying to weld the nut to the stud actually made the stud move freely. It was actually the easiest thing to unbolt because it was hot. So it might be worth trying to drill a small hole in the stud, try welding it to a nut to heat it up, and then use a stud extractor bit.
Do you have a video replacing the lower manifold gasket. Pretty sure mine is leaking coolant.
Unfortunately, I don’t.
I supposedly have a leaking gasket for the intake plenum causing my truck idle to "hunt" and stall. While the plenum is off should I plan to replace the fuel injectors or just clean them?
Yeah that happens. I would definitely plan to either clean the injectors or just replace them. Since I DD my truck, I’d probably buy new injectors so I can get my truck back together in a day.
I have a 1996’ ford F-150 with the 4.9l straight six and I need a EGR tube. I need the whole thing from the EGR all the way down to the exhaust. I can’t find one anywhere any ideas ??
You’ll need to go to a junkyard for the section that goes down to the exhaust. Sometimes, they’ll sell hard to find parts like that on eBay.
I don’t have the smog pump in my 95 f150 how would I get around a check engine light bc of the egr system
Nice! 🤙 There is a reroute plug that you plug into the EGR harness that eliminates the code. I’ve seen it once but I can’t remember where. You’ll have to search around for it.
Can you adjust the EGR tube after its installed? If not, how do I know it's inthe right position? Thanks. Great video!
I think you can adjust it a little since the setup is similar to a brake line with the retaining nut not fixed to the actual tube.
With that said, the EGR tube is made from fairly soft steel. So it can kind of flex a little.
I have a random question about the vacuum tree and the capped/unused nipple on it. Perhaps you can help. I have a very similar setup and also have one capped off. One of my vaccum lines attached to my tree was not getting vacuum, so I switched it to the capped off nipple and now my engine light is off, egr code, and all runs well. My question is what is the capped off one for anyway? And then why would one of the nipples have no vaccum from it? I just want to make sure I didn't screw anything up doing that that will reveal itself down the road. Thanks in advance if you can advise.
That’s a very good question. I believe the capped nipples are there for other accessories for higher trim level trucks, ie Eddie Bauer.
@@TheMinuteMastersthanks for taking time to reply, and your videos. I am still confused how one of the nipples was clogged, but it doesn't matter since I just switched that vacuum line to the capped one and it solved my mysterious egr code
Hey man, do you know what size the torx key was for that intake manifold?
That’s a good question. I think it was either a T-20 or T-25.
Great vid! Do you have one for the intake manifold below?
Thanks Chris! 🤙 Unfortunately I don’t. What do you need to know?
Curious did you post on where you bought it? Both tube and gasket?
Yup, there are links in the description for the gasket set and the EGR tube.🤙
Do you know how to diagnose faults in the egr system? My truck is getting bad fuel mileage and it throwing a egr code.
I have done a little diagnostics work. For the EGR valve you can actually manually operated by pushing on it with your finger. If your truck acts like it has a vacuum leak then you know that it’s working. Is manually opening the EGR valve with your finger causes no issue then you have identified the fact that your EGR is stuck open. Otherwise they close the EGR shouldn’t cause any issues.
@@TheMinuteMasters try pushing on my EGR valve like that and I couldn't get it to budge I couldn't get it to move it all that mean mine stuck I know it's running terrible
What is that vacuum controlled thing in the back behind the valve cover on that side. Mine is shot and I think I'm going to have to pull that stupid plenum to get to it.
Air Injection?
Between the firewall and valve covers + plenum is a vacuum actuated thermactor valve. It’s some kind of emissions equipment.
On the back of the motor near the firewall parallel to the valve cover on the passenger side what are the thick black hoses that run down to the exhaust? I can't find that housing anywhere on line and I am not sure what it is called
I think you are referring to one of the AC condenser lines.
@@TheMinuteMasters I did a little research through my job and took advantage of their repair and diagnostics system they have and found out that it is the combination air bypass / air control valve
My only problem now is I can't find them anywhere online to purchase
What kind of metal and size did you use to patch your sub frame
I used a plate of 1/8” steel to fill the cut out portion and then another plate of 1/8” over that patch. Also it was mild steel.
Great video, what did use to cut the tube?
The tube bolts in. So I didn’t have to cut anything.
T40 THANK YOU🙏🏻✌️👍
You’re welcome man!🤙
Here's a recommendation for a video. You should do a power steering flush and add a power steering pump filter in your return line
So I’ve heard of people do that and I’m definitely interested. Does the filter help with the steering whine these trucks have?
@@TheMinuteMasters definitely. That and using actual power steering fluid instead of just the mercon V trans fluid. Putting a little stop leak definitely aids as well.
Do some research and see what you think!
@@Alphawolf2325 Sounds good man! I’ll definitely research it and see scar I find.🤙
Just do a Saginaw power steering pump conversion instead. Get a bracket from e150 from around the same year with 5.0 or 5.8 and get a pressure hose specifically for the e150 also, I think it uses the same steering gear box so it should bolt right up. Hence more power pressure and no whine on the ps pump
What is the thin socket that you are using for the T40?
I used a T-40 meant for a screw gun with an extension drive.
Hello! I'm replacing my cracked EGR tube. Where did you find yours? I'm looking to find one cheap. Thanks for the step by step video!
I bought mine from eBay. You’ll have to do some searching around. I think I had a link for it in the description of the video but that link could be old now.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks I'll take a look. AutoZone and Advanced Auto's prices are like $200 which seems ri
I would add a catch can for ur vent tube where you put oil in that will delete the oil from going thru the cold air intake and throttle body I have done it to 2 truck one 95 Ford F-150 with 5.0w and a 89 Ford F-250 with a 5.8 w and never had any problem scene I deleted it from going in the cold air intake
the 95 Ford F-150 5.0 was for a family member that has to deal with emission and inspection and it pass Everytime
Actually, I have a catch can installed already. I put one in 5 years ago when I saw the amount of oil that travels up to the intake. I actually bought a bigger catch can which I intend to install pretty soon.
But good advice though, the throttle body’s get super dirty from all the crankcase oil.🤙
Is a catch can used mostly for fuel injection w/emissions? I have 94 bronco 5.0 XL, 95 BRONCO 5.8 XLT, and a 05 Scion XB that have oil in the throttle body. I have a lot less trouble all around with my 78 Ranger Bronco(351M), and 75 Ford Ranger PU(351C) thanks to a lot less BS to deal with. The 94/95 are killing me with the maintenance bills. It's a good thing I do the work myself. This is only the 2nd time I've heard anything about a catch can
@@michaelbidwell4210 That’s a good question. I’ve only ever seen catch cans installed on fuel injected engines. I think it’s mostly because fuel injection has certain emission components that benefit from having a catch can.
Mine broke on my 89 f150 with a 351. But mine connects from the passenger header to the egr valve but the replacement one doesn’t line up and the nut on it isn’t big enough like the factory so it doesn’t tighten up the way i want it. Any help?
Interesting. Does not line up like it’s designed for a newer engine? As far as tightening up all the way, mine doesn’t appear to be screwed in all the way but it actually is. Is that agar hot mean?
It could be the wrong one but when i look them up for my make and model and motor size they show like 4 different egr tubes.
@@E-Ricky98 Gotcha. Unfortunately, you have to try and get the closest match or buy all 4. Then return the three that don’t work.
Hey having some problems with my 95 it’s having problems accelerating when it’s cold almost sounds like it’s running out of gas‘s after it warms up all the way it runs fine any idea on what it is
Hey man!
Well it can be any number of things.
Are any of your ignition parts new?
Are any of your fuel parts new?
Are any of your air intake components new?
@@TheMinuteMasters I just tried to replace the coil to see if that was it but it wasn’t
@@GTxJakobix Not a bad idea but could actually last a good while. I would look at replacing the dizzy cap and rotor, spark plugs, and plug wires, especially if you haven’t don’t a tune-up in a while.
So I’m currently in the process of replacing the motor in my 95 f150 do would you recommend pulling the plenum off so I can get the motor out more easily? I’m replacing it with a 5.0 from a 96 explorer
Removing the plenum does help gain a little overhead clearance. I’ve seen guys bolt the chains to the lower intake bolt holes too. I’ve not tried that, so I won’t recommend it.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you, I’ve started the process of pulling the plenum the motor is toast so I’m not super worried about the rebuild I’m super happy I found your channel keep up the good work!!
@@jordencarter8813 Sounds good! You can do whatever you want.
Thanks man!🤙 Will do!
Help: Torx bolt is seized on upper manifold intake, it will not budge or turn. How do I get it off? Intake is still attached to the truck.
Try penetrating oil over a couple of days. Otherwise, use a propane torch to heat the bolt. Be careful not to burn any fuel injector harness or fuel hoses.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, I'll try that.😁👍
@@WickedJesterL No problem man!🤙
Just a disclaimer: using a torch around fuel lines is risky/dangerous. Take extra caution.
Is a egr delete worth it on these trucks or is it better to leave the egr system in there?
I think it’s worth keeping around. I don’t think there is much to gain.
My name is Francisco I like to know if you can please tell me how to torque valves on 88 f150 5.0L and identify exhaust and exhaust like example (exhaust) valves is on this piston # !!! so on and so on thank you I really appreciate your help
Hi Francisco! I’ve never torqued the valves on my truck yet. However, I recommend buying a “Haynes”manual. If I remember correctly, they have an entire chapter dedicated to the 5.0. There’s probably information about the valves in that chapter.
How the heck did u get the tool to the last back bolt
I think I used an extension or a deep socket. It’s the middle bolt that’s the most difficult for people to remove.
Man. No wonder there were a bunch of crappy jb weld repairs. Not easy but done right.
What if a little bit of the gasket falls inside the holes? 😬😬
A little bit might burn off. It’s important not to get hard objects down the runners I.e bolts, nuts, rocks, etc.
Is this the same for a 1980 AMC pacer?
Good question, I don’t know for sure.
Hey Stevie, I followed exactly what you did. And went further as to replace my Valve Cover Gaskets. But once I put everything back together, im hearing a loud whistle sound coming from the engine bay. I'm not sure what's causing it. Also found out that the EGR pipe was blocked with a $10 coin from Mexico? Ha! Not sure how that happened. Maybe they got I bought it from had someone try to "delete" the EGR. Anywho please let me know what could be wrong
Hi Noel! Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. I would check around the base of the intake plenum. If you can use a piece of plastic pipe as a stethoscope that will help. I would also verify that all your vacuum lines are connected. What year is your truck?
@@TheMinuteMasters My truck was manufactured in Nov 1989 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 5.0 4wd. My pops says more like a 1990 since it's late year? EFI as well no Carb. It was tough putting the plenum back down with the gasket in place but I doubled check and all bolts grabbed it. I will have to try that pipe, sounds like an F18 taking off the runway ha!
@@TheMinuteMasters okay I found out that I didn't tighten the EGR filter all the way. The whistle is gone but now a whining sound like a 747 has started smh 🤦
@@halo_shepard7844 Oh good! Use the tube trick to pin point the whining noise too.
What is the JEGS filter I see at 3:04?
You probably noticed the JEGS air/oil separator that I used as an oil catch can. I’ve since removed it and replaced it with a Mishimoto brand oil catch can.
Hey man. Yellow vacuum lines running to the valve looking by the firewall. What do those do and what would it cause if they were broken? Mine are broken.
Hi Fizzi, they are emissions related. I don’t think they’re related to the EGR system. I think it’s mostly a smog thing. I don’t think it should do anything but they should be plugged if you unplug them so as to avoid any vacuum leaks.
@@TheMinuteMasters Ok. Both the orange one and the yellow one on my truck are broken. Would this cause it to run rough? How would you go about repairing them? Any chance you could make a quick video showing how to repair and how they are supposed to be routed. I’ve been dealing with this rough idle, no power, stalls when warm problem for a long time.
@@fizzi5836 If you’re having those kinds of issues it could be more than a vacuum leak.
Are all of your ignition parts new? Cap, rotor, plug wires, ignition coil, and spark plugs? If any of those parts are old or you don’t know the condition I would replace them.
Are any of your fuel components in good working order? For this I would mostly replace your fuel filter. If your pumps haven’t failed they are probably still working but could be due for a replacement.
@@fizzi5836 But to answer question directly. I repaired the plastic vacuum lines but plugging both broken ends into a larger diameter rubber vacuum hose I bought from auto parts stores.
@@TheMinuteMasters Spark plugs and fuel pump is the only thing that’s new. The check engine light does come on so i’m thinking electrical. Idle in park isn’t super horrible but the idle in gear is really bad.
Saludos cordiales gracias
¡De nada!
If the tube is loose/broken, can it be a cause for a higher than usual idle rpm?
If the tube is broken, you should technically have some idle/rpm issues because it causes a vacuum leak. It can also cause wear starting issues too.
Will that tube messed up like that make your vehicle run good when it's cold and then run terrible when the engine gets warm?
@@matthewkyle3793 mine does the same. Haven't figured out yet.
@@matthewkyle3793 did you ever figure out if this was the issue i as well am firing the parts canon and curious if this could be an issue?
i’m not sure what engine you have but if you have a smog pump you should do a video on smog pump deletion
I have the 5.0/302. I’ve toyed with the idea of deleting the smog pump. Since it works, my plan is to let it be until it the actual pump fails.
@@TheMinuteMasters same engine on mine! if it fails id love to see a video on it from you. i was toying with the idea aswell but mine works too. if it ain’t broke don’t fix it right😂
@@TheMinuteMasters is there any added benefit to deleting the smog pump?
@@randysgut3214 I don’t think there has been an accurate study of benefit. I think it mostly frees up space in the engine bay.
@@TheMinuteMasters gotcha thank you
What is that EGR tube called that goes to the intake? If I google EGR tube or pipe, I only get the pipe that goes from the manifold to the EGR
The tube that connects to the intake pipe from the valve cover is the CCV tube.
Is that what you are talking about?
@@TheMinuteMasters yes
@@samuelyeet6006 you can actually use rubber fuel or coolant hose that fits. That’s essentially what Ford used.
I live in Kansas which is a free state can I just delete the EGR unit if so what do I do with the pipe or the tubes excuse me that's under the plenum or do I just block the whole thing off I guess I need to get on another video for that one huh thanks buddy
I have a 1989 Ford Bronco 5.0, i did my intake about 4 years ago Tube was Broke in same spot, it's a 302 ci about 3 months ago my Truck at a idle would go up & down over & over, i replaced the TPS was not the problem then i replaced the 02 sencer and the MAP it still does the same thing, idles up & down almost to stall, i bought the Truck in 1990 it's a 89' i just turned 100,000 miles, i can't figure out what is causing it to idle like this, Someone said it might be the Evap not sure what that is, but if you can suggest what it might be it would be Great ... HELP
Hi DJ, sounds like a vacuum issue. Somewhere, a vacuum line or vacuum actuated device probably keeps opening and closing. This is probably causing that up and down idle issue. Is your EGR new?
The only other system to check is the fuel system. A fuel pump could be failing and just trying to keep up.
Definitely check all your vacuum lines. I have a video showing how to replace them. That’s a pretty good guide for looking around the engine bay.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks much for the reply, The EGR Valve ? No i didn't replace it but that is Next, i have other Vehicles and haven't been driving the Truck much until i get it figured out, i was also thinking it was a Vacuum that's the second thing i checked after i replaced the TPS couldn't find a leak though, i did replace the Fuel pump in the tank & the one on the rail a few years ago, i can hear the tank pump go when ever i turn the Key, i know one could still be bad, i pulled codes when this first started happening and it just showed the 02 was bad, i will check out your Vacuum Video i am really thinking it might be the EGR, i worked on Cars my whole life i am 64 yrs old now this stump me LOL,
Thanks for the reply ,
@@DJ-365 No problem DJ! Yup, your EGR valve could be losing vacuum and malfunctioning.
If you have two tanks, one pump could be having issues. One the subject of fuel, is your fuel filter new?
Really? Did you end up replacing the O2 sensor?
I take it, you took the vacuum gauge off your system and checked it that way? Otherwise I’ve noticed the vacuum lines on the passenger side of the engine bay seem to be the first to start to crumble. A lot of times it’s the hard plastic lines that have small crumble holes in them.
Wow! Good for you! Hey, I get stumped with problems too. It can happen to anybody. You are most welcome and thank you for watching my videos.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah i did replace the 02 sensor, it only has one tank I have one fuel pump in the gas tank & second pump on the rail under the driver seat, truck came like that, Changed them both a few years ago & filters, i bought this truck in 1990 it's a 89' it's just turned 104,000 miles on it don't drive it much LOL i have other Vehicles, i going to change the EGR it's Original ...
i haven't drove it in over a month just start it every few weeks until i have time to get to it again, Thanks again..
@@DJ-365 Yeah see what a new EGR will do for you and go from there. No problem DJ!🤙
Any sealer for the intake?
I used the Felpro gasket. 🤙
Hold up how come I never see a video about mine it has 2 little tubes running off the side to a sensor on the front of my intake and how important is these parts I see good comments and bad ones about doing deletes
What engine do you have?
Yes, deleting the EGR typically takes a lot of work to avoid CEL and other codes.
@@TheMinuteMasters I have the 96 5.0 and I did little research and it goes to a egr pressure sensor idk how important it is or what pressure it’s sensing
@@jblspeakersandmore277 Interesting. I guess Ford tried something different on your truck.
In Texas after 25 years can remove all that crap. Just what I’m fixing to do on 5.0 1990 Bronco.
Nice! 🤙 You don’t need that stuff in free states!
I just bought an 85 f150 with a 302 I'm about to pull all that crap off
I did this and now the truck is making sputtering noises when I try to accelerate:( I any Idea what I could've done wrong?
You’ve replaced all the gaskets and everything is torqued properly right? Also, are all the vacuum lines free or cracks? Are all sensors plugged in?
@@TheMinuteMasters I did all of that and even torqued all the bolts to 15 ft lbs. I replaced my vacuum lines 2 months ago with the silicone ones you recommended and they work great
@@ericj8314 Gotcha. I would do a recheck of everything and try to listen for hissing noises which would indicate a vacuum leak. Also check all the ignition related parts. Sputtering could be any number of things. Not enough spark, not enough fuel, or not enough air.
@@TheMinuteMasters You were right it wasn't getting enough fuel... because I accidentally unplugged one of the injector connections. Plugged it in and now my truck is running perfect now. Thank you for your help man I'll try to be more careful next time
@@ericj8314 Sweet! Good to hear Eric!🤙 No problem man! Thanks for watching!
This tube isn't bendable, right? I just put new upgraded injectors in my 5.0, and now it's running poorly and very rich.
This tube isn’t bendable. What injector upgrade did you do?
I got a 92 it is different what now
How different? What engine do you have?
What year truck is this?
1995 F150
Had to grind my t40 down to fit
Yeah sometimes that’s what you have to do.
That sneaky torx.... T35 with the hole in the center. What a bunch of bull... Why?
No idea! lol I’m willing to bet it’s there because a traditional sized socket wouldn’t fit.
Do a smog pump and all it’s villains inside there for your next video!
Hahaha! I’d love to but I’m going to wait until mine dies. So far all of my emissions stuff works. Although, the extra room in the engine bar would be sweet!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I agree!! That’s why I wanna do mine… and punt it into the back yard
The torx to get the Pelham off I really need to know what size that is, so I don't have to do all the work
@@richardmartin2646 T-40🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you I just had to read some more comments
Why not delete the EGR? I see many folks do just that. Are there issues with deleting besides government regulations?
You certainly can and lots of people do. The benefit of an EGR is it keeps exhaust temps down which effects engine performance. I’ve heard EGR delete will drop your mpg by one. I’ve also heard you will have a check engine light forever unless you plug the harness.
Ummm once u have removed ur throttle body u can reach right up in there with ur t40 allen wrench u dont have to blindly fish thru the plenum
Good tip! Thanks man!🤙
Hi , one cuestion , whats the name of the part that is behind the engine right in the middle of the engine the one that it has a big nut and is conected to the black house ? mine its broken on top of the nut but i dont know the name to order one on ebay.
Hi Alan, it sounds like you are referring to the Thermactor valve right behind the intake plenum. It’s an emissions component. It is vacuum controlled by the TAB and TAD controls on the driver’s side of the intake plenum.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks very much Stevie.
@@alanvillanueva4541 No problem Alan! Thanks for watching!🤙
Hey i have a 96 f150 5.0 and the egr pipe how much was it
Nice! The egr tube was $18.89.
@@TheMinuteMasters where dud
@@miguelgarcia3178 www.ebay.com/itm/264427107710
@@TheMinuteMasters hey so i was doing it but the torx 4o is rounded what do i do plz help bro and btw my egr was diffrent it has the 2 tubes connected to the sensor
@@miguelgarcia3178 Hi Trevor! So the torx bolt is stripped?
Gotcha. Are you able to find that kind of tube?
Sure you did,, im talking about when you cut the old tube off in video..
So the old tube was broken in half if that’s what you are referring too.
Which Milwaukee driver is that? That is a nice tool.
That’s the M12 1/2” stubby impact gun. It’s super sweet! Better than trying to use the M18 1/2” impact gun for this small work.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank you, keep the videos coming.
@@drcazeddog I sure will man!🤙
Never mind I found it. Vapor canister purge valve solenoid
Yup! If it goes bad sometimes it throws code 565, but code 565 never went away once I replaced mine.
@@TheMinuteMasters it wasn't throwing a code. I accidentally broke the bottom part of it while taking off some of the old vacuum line
@@ryangarner6099 Gotcha. Well that’s good no code was thrown then.
I don’t think my egr has a vacuum line connected to it 😳
Yeah, you definitely need that vacuum line for the EGR to work properly.
@@TheMinuteMasters does the exhaust gas get recycled into the intake?
@@SC-dt4ij To my knowledge, yes. The EGR route a little bit of unburnt exhaust gas back through the intake plenum. Supposedly, this lowers intake temps and if course reduces emissions.
Plug the EGR....it is just recirculating garbage into your engine....
I have a 13 mm right there and there’s no room for wrench
Where are are you referring?
I removed every part related to the egr and smog system. No catalytic converters, no smog pump no crossover pipe on the back of the heads. All of that stuff is unnecessary.
Do you have a check engine light?
@@TheMinuteMasters the check engine light and emissions light is on. But I just took the bulbs out of the dash cluster. It runs just fine.
@@kylestivers4606 Gotcha. Supposedly there is something you can plug into the harness and it will clear the check engine light.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I need to figure that out so I can put the bulb back and it doesn't light up. I need to get a scan tool so I can clear the codes and know exactly why the light is on.
@Kyle I just took the light bulb out of the dash behind the check engine light. I should have kept the egr valve or just the piece that plugs in.
Why is the title of this video for a 5.0? This clearly isn’t that
This is definitely a Ford 5.0 V8. It’s not a newer Coyote 5.0. The old 5.0s were 302 engines that were modified to accept electronic fuel injection.