How To Replace a Rear Main Seal - Without Removing Trans or Engine!
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- čas přidán 15. 08. 2024
- Replacing the rear main seal in a 351c without removing the engine or transmission. yes, a lift was involved, but there engine and transmission is still in the car. this all could be done for a few hours of work. saving you lots of time!!!
Helpful video for those with a rear main seal problem. Also, your patience with what I assume is your kid is nothing short of saint-like! I kept waiting for you to holler "STOP IT" to your restless child banging on something for what seemed to be no reason other than to bother you while making a video and not paying attention to him. I must say, you are a better man than I.
Thank you for the advice. Unlike some in the comments it's not all about the best tools it's how you use them
A lift is literally the best tools
Good video, but you have a Rack that allows you to do this with ease. For those that use floor jacks, limited room and using a floor jack to jack up the engine from the front crank pully is a little more intimidating. Use caution when using a floor jack on the Crank Pully. Make sure you don't run into hitting the Engine Fan into a radiator shroud or flexing the upper and lower radiator hoses where you damage these parts. If doubtful ask a professional or someone that has worked on cars. A question not asked is where we run into problems. UTUBE or Google is not always your friend. Good stuff.
1st off... this video has got the BEST background music...EBER! No heavy grinding guitars to give me a headache. super content. Thank you! PSR
If I had that garage , I'd pull my engine 2-3 times a week .
You wouldn't have the time haha
@@ncsludgefactory5445 That's true . I'm jealous of that garage though . I have to go outside , just to turn around in my garage . I guess at least , I don't have to do everything outside .
LOL
I would 2
No you wouldn’t. Nobody wants to do that, I don’t care what garage you have or what car you’re building lol
If you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t watch this video.
I was hoping this video would show me that I can do this without going to my brothers garage to pay a lift fee. unfortunately I’ve just learned that I’ll need a garage no matter what.
Lifts and support rods both used in this video, neither of which are items that anyone will have on-hand at home lol. This is good knowledge for someone who already knows what they’re doing, and simply doesn’t feel like pulling the motor/trans.
Man, if I just got a new transmission and the seal was leaking, I’d be pissed. It’s cool you were able to get it without taking them apart though.
Rear main seal is not part of the transmission.
It's on the rear main cap of the crankshaft.
@@duncandonovan5270 I just meant it sucks that it was just put on, then has to come back off to replace it (obviously, not in his case).
Happening to me right now 😂😭😂
Yep. Used the same method to replace the rear main seal on my 82 corvette. Older engines are so much easier to maintain than these newer engines.
I am starting to replace the rear main on my 64 Mopar 426 wedge engine. I've not done this before and this video is inspiring my confidence to get the thing replaced.
Thx 🤓
I had to watch it a few times to understand because I never seen a rear seal in an engine so I didn't know where to look without being pointed at it.
I also noticed you unbolted the motormounts and raised the engine to free the oilpan.
You might wanna mention stuff like that cause I think thats a big step for folks that are attempting this for the first time, I understand it's not necessary on all cars.
Also wondering what greas to use installing the seal 🤔
All&all a usefull video, have more confidence doin this job on my 460 now.
Oh hats of to the drummer 😉
Thank you buddy I just bought my project car. And it's leaking from the Main seal. And I was thinking of removing the motor but now that I saw that video. I'm going to do it just like you did. My project car is 1966 Pontiac GTO Once again thank you very much.
Yep, it can be done. I’ve replaced rod bearings on all 8 rods of a 351C in a 71 Torino without pulling motor. I did the rear main seal on a 69 mustang with a 351W without pulling motor.
Some repair manuals and engine rebuilders suggest placing the seals dead flat without an offset. I've always offset mine, but just put together a Windsor dead flat. You reminded me to not second guess myself and old building techniques. Before I put the pan on this engine, I will slightly cock the seal and put it back together. Thanks for reminding me not to follow newbies.
Here I am, on my back, oil running down my armpits... at least my 65' Ranchero doesn't have a cross-member in the way.
All half moon rear main seals need silicone or permatex for leak prevention between the two good job
did one 20 years ago with a Chinese fingers, Thank you for the tip!
Super helpful thank you for making this video it stopped rear main leaks 😊
If the guy before you went crazy with RTV it can be a different story getting the old one out. Been there.
"If I can do it anybody can do it", he says standing in front of his car up on a lift surrounded by a garage, tools, spare speed parts. And it's pretty obvious he's done this stuff his whole life and so has his whole family. 🙄
Hamma Swingah shouldn’t stop you from trying, stop being a pussy, get some jack stands and a jack and go for it! You miss 100% of the shots you don’t take 💯
I've done more complicated things in my driveway, with basic tools, so... * shrug *
All those tools just make it more convenient. The only time you kinda need special tools is when you work on new cars with the weird engine covers and shit
I’ve been restoring a truck in my driveway using basic tools, some ramps, and Jack stands. He’s equipment just makes it easier. This is a job you can do in the driveway with a ratchet, maybe a pry bar, a Jack, and a screwdriver.
Oof
About clocking seals. If you have ever taken an original 1970 Cleveland apart you will notice the rope seal is flush with the block and cap, no protrusion of any kind. And remember the cap will have a pin in it that needs removed so you have room for the new type seal(the one you used with wire inside). I smashed the first one I ever installed because I left the pin in. I had a steady stream of oil coming out on first start up. I was a clueless newbie at the age of 19. I still have that engine to this day in my mustang, I am 54.
What is the "pin in it..." that you commented about? Thanks.
@@Im1withU The cap has a pointed pin installed into it that keeps the rope seal from rotating in the groove. You can remove it with a very small punch.
@@JimsFastbackGarage Thanks Jim for that info.
This is the best video on how to do this . No shlt . Thanks !
Man love you're vid, what sealed the deal was Sally Goodwin, and Rubins Train.
I loved the music in this video! Finally a video without drum machines, auto tune or hip hop Ghetto thumping. I hit that subscribe button! 👍😃👍
Thank you!
Great video! It helped me with my 79 400
Never knew that could be done great knowledge and can do attitude 👍👍
Nice video man. I had no idea that could be done without removing the engine and/or trans. Thanks.
Excellent, detailed, informative, extremely helpful, educational. I learned a lot in this video. I have shared it with many others. 👍🏻😎🙏🏻✝️🇺🇸
ALL ENGINES with a 2 piece seal can be done like this. THAT'S THE DIFFERENCE. All one piece seals CANNOT BE DONE without removing engine or transmission!!!
This is cool man, thanks for posting. Got one coming up on a boat soon and I’m gonna have to split the trans and engine.
I would subscribe to anything Bacon. It doesn’t hurt that this dude is cool as a fan and smarter than any mechanic in my town. Sub #319
Release the QRAKKEN thank you! You’re awesome! I appreciate it!
Nice video thanks. I have a sbc and my crank shows about the same or a little less wear than the one seen in the video. Was the crank journal wear anything to worry about? Did you have any trouble with the crank bearing not lasting?
Nah man. Just run it. I’ve put 10s of thousands of miles since this video
Nice car, and good video. I remember doing this way back in the day, if I remember correctly, the new seals would come with a small piece of plastic that you would stick between the block and outside of the seal when installing it so the edge of the block wouldn't tear up the outside of the seal. That main bearing in that cap looked cooked though, whole lotta copper showing
I like your video and know that your removal technique would work but I'm in a quandry over a 1956 Ford jubilee tractor engine with a rope seal. Have the bottom main cap out, that half of the rope seal removed, but wondering if you have any tricks to remove the top half of the seal. My two possibilitiees would be 1) running a screw up into the rope and hopefully pulling out (after loosening the other 2 main caps of course) or 2) finding a thick piece of relatively stiff copper wire to punch one side upwards and then grab the other side, if it comes out, with needle nose pliers like you did with the rubber seal. Let me know if you have any suggestions. Worst case scenario, what if I left the top alone and just replaced the bottom half with the rubber seal from the gasket set?
love how the Ford cars let you drop the pan without lifting the motor, however the trucks require the motor to be lifted. Should be the other way around, right ??
Great video . I didn't know the rear main could be in two pieces. Just need to determine if that's true of my Chevy 305. I gotta say though, whoever was making all the racket in the background towards the end made it hard to hear what was being said without rewinding.
If the 305 Is 85 or older it's 2 piece
Did you ever got to do it? Cus I’m goin through the same thing now with an 85 el co
It would help tremendously if you would gave pointed out what was what kn the video. I mean where the seal is and the other componants in the film.
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos. I Just Got A 1999 Astro Van That Leaks Oil From The Rear Main Steal Hope This Video Helps Me
Thanks I hope it's the same way for a 283 v8
ty for the quick video about to tackle mine today and you made me more confident
Wow bud really great video! I am really impressed! 👍👍 Rang your bell. Really cool car. Amber is jelóus! Keep it up you are on your way!
how is holding the seal after all
I’m trying to punch it out on my 302 but it’s seized . Any tips?
It's going to run me 700-1000 to take it to a shop this better teach me something lol
Could this work with a 2009 Dodge Charger 3.5 V6??
Would this work on a F350 7.5 460
What's up with the crank It's all scratched up where the bearing goes.on the crank?????
When your were lifting the engine up we’re you lifting on the vibration damper?
Same question, Did he just lift the block up to make clearance from the transmission? Where did he place the tool on?
@@FreshKicks4545 he lifted it so he can (re)move the oil pan because of crossmember in the way.
I’ve got a 396 big block in a 66 c10. Do you think I’ll be able to do this same procedure?
I have a 1983 Ford f250 Big block 460 it's been sitting for 20 years thanks
rear main is a rope seal
Nice car man
I wonder if it would be a 2 piece rear main seal on my 292 V8 🤔
2 piece
Would this work on a 1993 ford bronco with a 351w?
That works on that type of seal.
What about the ream main seal that is one complete round piece?
Good job on the exhaust wrap
I am struggling getting the new seal in the block so I thought “great, let’s see how it’s done.” I watch you struggle with it a long time and only get it half way in like me. Then you say it’s in the block and go to the cap. Wish I could perform magic like that.
Yea I went though 2 seals. Don’t give up. You can also rotate the crank and it helps it go in
@@baconfabrication7775 that's valuable information
can you do a 1969 460 the same way
Very helpful I’m about to do mine o my 64 Cadillac…
thanks....great video
My 351w has a one peice seal. You have to pull the trans off to get to it.
Unless you've got a 302 in a truck, in which case they left some stupid bulge hanging down at the back of the oil pan, so you need to raise the engine enough for the bulge to clear the cross-member *grumble grumble*
Rear engine seals don't suck. They blow
Same theory on a 98 5.7 Liter 4x4 Tahoe engine? If not whole transfercase tranny must be taken out I pray u say yes if not I will ride this engine until the wheels fall off the then new engine and tranny makes no sense to me to drop the tranny out just to put a lil seal on might as well save cash 💵 and make her brand new if I can do it your way though I will put another 100k miles on her and just put my money on the paint and suspension
Big brain mechanic
Thank you for a realy Good Video 👍😎
I got to see this.
I'm assuming you also loosened all the main caps?
Am I seeing that the rear main bearing is shot, copper showing.................?
Cheers mate great video
Thid way won't work for 1 piece remain seal like my 96 351w. Ugh i has to pull the transmission
Wait why did you leave the seal sticking out
Get that cap up on there nice and level
Merci de France 😉
This is a great idea for certain vehicles but i know on mine which is a Australian made ford Territory with barra engine and zf6hp26 transmission that there is no way it could be done like u did. Well i cant see how but others might know a trick to do it this way. I really cant see how u can do it unless they are 2 piece seals,or am i wrong? Love the channel btw
You're exactly right
Question sir..if your car is automatic transmission...and your rear main seal is worn out.what oil will coming out there?is it ATF?or ENGINE OIL?
It will be oil coming out if it is the rear main seal
@@baconfabrication7775 so why is the ATF coming out from my tranny?which is the mechanic said to me that the rear crankshaft oil seal was worn out..my car is toyota rav4 1az engine 2005 model
I need u to fix my 2003 rear main seat on a Nissan suv I'm in Daytona Beach Florida were you
Can u help me please
Sweet car; great video too;
Will it work on a saab too?
I'm confused. How is the seal able to "seal" being in two parts. Isnt the oil going to seep past the connecting parts?
Thats why he said to add some permatex sealer to the ends of the seal halves and some on the main block to prevent oil leaking past the ends.
I'm an amateur shade tree mechanic..adding sealant to a gasket that's in 2 pieces don't seem right..but again I'm an amateur
You rotate the seal about a1/4",so the ends of the seal don't line up with the block & rear main cap & apply a dab of sealant to the ends of the seal
Great video
Love the music😎
Easy he says.... has a full blown garage with all the cool toys any one could possibly ever need.
Irrelevant. If you've got basic tools, a jack and some stands it doable. Did it myself on my Fury last summer.
Yeah. But what if you don’t have a two piece seal?
Great man, thank you!
Thanks man!
I totally just subscribed
heloo there . will a rear main leak on a clevo always leak from between bell housing and spacer plate as in the case with that beast .
Yes, on any rearwheel drive V8.
Nice
I'm laying in the mud, snow, and chicken poop under my truck that I drove into cinder blocks, cursing at this son of a buck.
Lmao!!! Good one!! It sucks doing this outside in the elements, with make shift ways to get your vehicle elevated enough so you can crawl under it 600 times while your working on it. You must of been in Texas just like me dealing with ice, snow, chicken poop, and frozen fingers!!! Your comment made my day!!!
Good stuff thank you 👍
I subbed
Judging you the paint on the under side of the vehicle that's a bona-fide garage queen ride.
How much would a shop charge for labor????
Depending on car or truck 300 to 1500
Bearing are a little worn out
*northstar engine has entered the chat
Interesting.
Same as with a Dodge Dakota 3.9L Magnum .
Can you do this in a chevy 350?
Any 2-piece rear main seal
Did this work? Seriously? I’d like to know...
Yes it did, this is my daily driver
Bacon Fabrication that’s awesome good vid!
Great video! Really helpful.
how is it with the 460ci engine? can I use the same trick to replace the rear main seal?
Yes
well did you try it? did it work?