Forgot to mention I’ve Also never seen a bad camshaft / crankshaft SENSOR, on This particular engine. most likely not that on this engine, Other Audi/ vw, yes, like the older 2.8 3.0 3.2 4.2 engines I have needed to replace a crankshaft sensor
Thanks for the info, always appreciate the content. I'm about to migrate all the head exterior parts from non-burnt 2011 CAE to engine fire 2013 CAE. Glad you mentioned the solenoid springs/balls. The 2011 used lots of oil, sensor got dirty and I ran it low on oil before I got smart and researched all the stuff to do to maintain them. 4 Audis later, I'm getting there. BTW, Happy Thanksgiving to you.
I just replaced the head (head gasket) and turbo (valve failure) on a 2018 golf r the cam bracket on those engines does not have the screen. this should be the same engine as the a3 s.
Hey a shout out to all your great videos on the 2.0T My B8 A5 Quattro dropped #3 cylinder. Had a new crate Gen 3 from couple of years ago. Thank goodness I bought it then and stored it. Thanks again man your input and videos made the change go really flow pretty good. 👍🏼
i'm trying to do mine . i have a broken valve inside the cylinder .don't know yet how bad is that .i'll figured out when remonving the cylinder head . and yes naptowntuner is the vw/audi man .
I finished swapping in a 2014 CPM A5 engine to my 2011 CAE A4, just had to swap two head studs, and use all the original harness, intake, injectors, and like 3-4 sensors. It really wasn't as dramatic as I thought. Now I'm tearing apart 3 CAEB engines to make 1 or if I'm lucky, 2 useable engines... 2010 (unknown auction shenanigans)/2011 P016 (long start, no valve contact)/2013 (engine fire)... So far the burnt engine has a good head after chipping off a bunch of melted plastic. Timing cover off revealed melted guides.... It should have a good rotating assembly, 2013 should have addressed the TSB for pistons/rings. So it's the short block... I have a very lightly front crunched 2010 A5, and a whole 2010 S-line interior and exterior parts, traded a guy a motorcycle for it all... Should be a nice car, just a lot of work to put it all together... I cut my teeth on fully disassembling the 2014 Quattro A5, interior and exterior, full drivetrain removal (it was copart auction car with 77k sold from Geico).
I really wish they would start making a repair kit for the variable cam gear!! Those prices are ridiculous lol.. All that money and the one thing that goes bad is the variable gear part. Even if its a bit worn the cam is fine. Not just the spring and ball but the whole gear piece.
I installed a new timing set on a 2010 2.0T and when I started the engine it sounded like valve to piston noise. I was thinking, WTF! I set it back on TDC, pulled both timing covers, and everything was spot on. I thought maybe the new tensioner was bad? while pulling things apart and racking my brain I was installing the cam locking tool on the intake cam and heard a snap. after messing around I discovered the locking pin inside the VVT wasn't staying locked in and I could move the gear throughout the full range of degrees. It would lock but with a bit of rocking back and forth I could get it to unlock. turns out the pin hole was worn enough allowing the pin to unlock without any oil pressure causing the cam to advance causing the rattling noise. installed a new cam and so far, so good.
Good morning. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with everyone. I have a question. What is the second piece that you recommend, not removing the small filter it comes with but cleaning it? Is it the turbocharger?
I had installed new cams, on my cat earlier this year drove the car for a month then out of nowhere the engine died. I took it apart and found the vvt cam gear broke from the shaft. I bought a used cylender head that had cam valves and everything for $800. I installed that then started the engine rev the engine and then broke the new/used cam. I broke the exact way as before. I found out I had fuel mixed with my oil. I'm guessing could it be because I didn't replace the fuel injectors seals. I boght a New hpfp for the new cylender head. I'm wondering how can this happen back to back like this.
I know this is a pretty old video, but have you seen the updated version dorman has put out? They redesigned the screen to a full metal housing with a stainless mesh. do you think that would be better than oem?
B9 2.0 TFSI 2017- just got this code and I am praying this is the fix. Audi quoted 5k for the repair- exhaust camshaft and adjustor replacement. Car is ticking and bucking/ stalling at low rpm. Started with start stop malfunction. Does this sound like symptoms of this repair?
help!! help!! have p3041 check engine light and EPC flash , flashes more and when I press the gas sometime car stutters when pressing the gas . . have all rdy done Cam & Crank sensors . please any help would be appreciated
I’ve a similar fault on my 2011 cdnc, epc light and engine check light flashing, plus a serious misfire at idle. It’s just been rebuilt after jumped timing and bent valves due to a tensioner failure, not in my ownership. Does this sound like a faulty intake cam? I really hope I don’t have to pull it apart again 🤦🏼♂️. There are no fault codes for timing, only random misfire codes. Coils plugs all new. Any advice appreciated? I am concerned the cam lobes may have moved when it bent the valves. Thanks
i cant install camshaft exhaust timing . after i put it back everything i cant move my cam shaft its stuck but the second cam moving back and forward . (((( i dont know how properly move exhaust cam . before i installed cam scratched my head valves .
Hey man, great video, I've been going through a ton of learning the hard way with my 2010 A4, chinese parts are hilariously not an option they're so bad! I had a screen break in the cam bridge and wreck havoc on the timing system, did a chain, guides, 3 bridges, 3 oil control valves, and a chinese cam, surprisingly it runs really well, but has a delay on accel, after about 10 miles I get a P000A and then after that a P0011 code, thought the timing was off, checked it, the marks were correct but I noticed on the chinese cam the socket cutaway for the phaser isn't at the same angle as the OE cam, not sure why. Marks line up when checking timing but phaser cut away isn't lined up with the bolt in the head, probably 2 teeth out. Tired of tearing it apart so I've been driving it just fine but wow, no way I'm spending a grand on a repair for such a flimsy timing system! Great insight I love comparing what I've learned with what you have.
Chinese parts do work, mine has Chinese oil pump, bridge, intake cam, balance shafts, timing chain, tensioner, timing cover, pistons, piston rings, Chinese cylinder head, head gasket, lifters. Currently Stage 2 at 15psi, 3" Catted downpipe, exhaust, engine runs well, no issues, no overheating, engine gives me no problems, NO CEL!
Hey what’s man. I been watching all your videos and I have a question for you. I did a bottom end swap on a b8.5 2.0t flex fuel 2015 Q5 with a bottom end from a b8 2.0t 2009-2011 because it had a rod knock. Took the cylinder head to the machine shop to get rebuilt. I put it back together sounds great when it is running but soon cuts off. Is there a difference between the two bottom ends of the engine?
Hey brother I don't know how to get ahold of you I'm working on my 2010 Audi A4 I changed my intake on it because I had the intake runner code. And now I still have that cold and the car is still performing sluggishly just seeing if you might of ran into this before
I will say, I just replaced my timing chain, tension, ect a month and a half ago. 1. Thank you NaptownTuner for helping me get though it! 2. I have the 2016 2.0TFSI. The oil control valve screen busted out and caused my timing issues! I say just like the older models of the cam bridge, pop that dang thing out to save yourself some trouble. They basically took it from the cam bridge and moved it to the solenoid. Ridiculous! Okay i'm done with my rant. Back to finishing up watching this video ha.
Yep I did my timing components and my mag adjuster seemed to have been frozen although I never got a P0016 code my phase adaptation value was -8.3° after new chains, both tensioners and all guides and I know all TDC measurements across the bridge were spot on .. turned out the oil flow control valve was stuck and adjuster pin stuck I replaced both with OEM and adaptation went right to -0.11° that is about as close to 0 as I’ve ever seen.. short story .. I do recommend to replace the phaser and adjuster every timing chain job. They’re very inexpensive in the Audi parts world
If you dint mind me Asking i have done the timing twice as well as the balance shafts and im still seeing a correlation code p0016 and the timing is in time does that oil control valve ever intermittently stop sending oil to the intake cam vvt at the sprocket causing that correlation code? Im stumped here major and tapped out financially as well
@@user-em6uj9vh7c hey man im on the same boat have replaced the timing chains twice and now both balance shafts and I'm still getting a correlation code p0016 and my next guess is to go into the vvt phaser onn the intake side just worried what i will find and if i can put it back together at a wall and worried i dont wanna screw up my audi a 4 , i get a normal start up after i remove codes then a Long crank after i go to restart it again let me know if you found anything out
Nice you getting back to cars. Can you do a video on how to inspect junkyard heads, valves and cams? What do I do with a 2006 2T with bent valves? I just want to drive another 1K on an old car. I dont want to rebuild an engine that will outlast the life of the car.
Currently dealing with a crank no start on an S4 4.2 (2004) with a new fuel pump and crank sensor. Stumped why it couldn't be a straight forward issue...
I recently was trying to get my audi to idle smoother. Broke down and took it to a specialist shop, they said its normal for the 2.0t to vibrate alot. They suggested the camshaft sensor to the newest revision as the tech showed me the old one was slow to report data. After 6k miles, not sure that changed anything, car still has built in seat vibration
Would the camshaft be at fault if I get a rattle from the camshaft area, no codes only when it revvs up. I disassembled and took off the camshaft bridge the screen was gone and there was scoring on the camshaft bridge, should I just replace the camshaft straight away ?
Hello guys, thanks for video.Cylinder head on video easy can be repair. Blades of VVT can be replaced, I refurbished him. No problem, I can help, don’t hesitate, if you have any questions, write me. I can provide photos how it’s made.
@@NaptownTuner Hello NaptownTuner 🤗.I ordered those parts in machining workshop in my country.Special strong iron material.Only need measurements gap between blades and blades holder groove. PS sorry for late reply.
I got one of them that went bad if you hear noise coming from that area nine times out of 10 that's solenoid is bad I heard a lot of noise coming out of mine and I replaced it and now it doesn't make noise
I'm dealing with this right now. Just had a full rebuild, 83mm bore, IE pistons, rods and springs, Ferra valves, mhale bearings, arp studs, etc. Got it back and then this happened. I get it back tomorrow. But these cars they make now seem to be all garbage. I had to rebuild due to a failed injector fuel washing #4. Expect nothing less than multiple and massive mechanical failures on VW and Audis.
@jokitag if you are dealing with this code, it could be the n205 valve inside the cam. Depends on the generation where it is located. That's relatively cheap. If you have to do the entire shaft( like I did mine) it was about 800 bucks at the shop.
Hey Man, need help with diagnosing, really hope you can help, i am completely lost. I have 2.0 audi tfsi 2013, when the engine reaches working temp. It starts to sound like a diesel engine, knocking loudly. Now if i disconnect either the cam positions sensor or one of the magnetic valve conterollers (i have on both cams) while the engine is runing it sounds perfect again and the knocking is gone, if i connect them back agaim the knocking starts within 10sec.....any ide?? Thanks for any help i can get
Naptown, can a faulty oil control valve cause P034100? Mine is intermittent EPC flashes but not the check engine light, but it’s on the log when I scan, happens once in a while.
I never said to replace the cylinder head, You typically don’t need a new cylinder head unless you bend valves from coming out of time. Ive seen broken valve springs and rocker arms (rare) If you’re doing new pistons for oil consumption a cylinder head could be considered but it gets so expensive if you replace everything that you might as well buy a new engine or sell the car to a mechanic. These are great cars for mechanics
@@NaptownTuner got it. Well, I'll report back, going with a new cam from Audi to fix my 2014 Audi A4 with a p0341. Of course new timing chains and guides. Thanks for your insight.
@@NaptownTuner want to buy a slightly used 2011 Tiguan with 16 new valves and freshly done head with code p2015 and code po341 runs great after its warm . Make you a really good deal. Help a brother out. 😅
volkswagen 2014 passat p0011 in the morning when I am starting my car is not doing a cold start on high RPM is start like a normal not making any idle in cold start
@@NaptownTuner I’m getting a certain fuel smell. Changed my maf, is running a bit better but still have some misfires. Could it be the fuel pump as well? Before I would have to hit the gas pedal to start
They're still engineering engines to fail even after knowing about the screens and other things that you change for the better. When they stop manufacturing like that I will finally buy a nice new Audi.
First time I find someone finally diagnosed p0341, with flashing EPC light correctly.
Would you say it has nothing to do with the cam bridge and screen?
Forgot to mention I’ve Also never seen a bad camshaft / crankshaft SENSOR, on This particular engine. most likely not that on this engine, Other Audi/ vw, yes, like the older 2.8 3.0 3.2 4.2 engines I have needed to replace a crankshaft sensor
Thanks for the info, always appreciate the content. I'm about to migrate all the head exterior parts from non-burnt 2011 CAE to engine fire 2013 CAE. Glad you mentioned the solenoid springs/balls. The 2011 used lots of oil, sensor got dirty and I ran it low on oil before I got smart and researched all the stuff to do to maintain them. 4 Audis later, I'm getting there. BTW, Happy Thanksgiving to you.
I just replaced the head (head gasket) and turbo (valve failure) on a 2018 golf r the cam bracket on those engines does not have the screen. this should be the same engine as the a3 s.
So I just gave Audi $100 for a sensor for nothing. When you said epc, I said whelp I need a new cam. Thanks for the info
Hey a shout out to all your great videos on the 2.0T
My B8 A5 Quattro dropped #3 cylinder.
Had a new crate Gen 3 from couple of years ago. Thank goodness I bought it then and stored it.
Thanks again man your input and videos made the change go really flow pretty good. 👍🏼
NaptownTuner you the man! all of your videos gave me courage to do a rebuild on a 09 A4.. Today will be starting her for the 1st time since rebuild!!
i'm trying to do mine . i have a broken valve inside the cylinder .don't know yet how bad is that .i'll figured out when remonving the cylinder head . and yes naptowntuner is the vw/audi man .
Thanks for the info! And I love the brutal honesty at the end, man. I will not patiently await a response
You're the best. From Africa.
Bout time you got back to car fix videos!
I finished swapping in a 2014 CPM A5 engine to my 2011 CAE A4, just had to swap two head studs, and use all the original harness, intake, injectors, and like 3-4 sensors. It really wasn't as dramatic as I thought. Now I'm tearing apart 3 CAEB engines to make 1 or if I'm lucky, 2 useable engines... 2010 (unknown auction shenanigans)/2011 P016 (long start, no valve contact)/2013 (engine fire)... So far the burnt engine has a good head after chipping off a bunch of melted plastic. Timing cover off revealed melted guides.... It should have a good rotating assembly, 2013 should have addressed the TSB for pistons/rings. So it's the short block... I have a very lightly front crunched 2010 A5, and a whole 2010 S-line interior and exterior parts, traded a guy a motorcycle for it all... Should be a nice car, just a lot of work to put it all together... I cut my teeth on fully disassembling the 2014 Quattro A5, interior and exterior, full drivetrain removal (it was copart auction car with 77k sold from Geico).
I really wish they would start making a repair kit for the variable cam gear!! Those prices are ridiculous lol.. All that money and the one thing that goes bad is the variable gear part. Even if its a bit worn the cam is fine. Not just the spring and ball but the whole gear piece.
I installed a new timing set on a 2010 2.0T and when I started the engine it sounded like valve to piston noise. I was thinking, WTF! I set it back on TDC, pulled both timing covers, and everything was spot on. I thought maybe the new tensioner was bad? while pulling things apart and racking my brain I was installing the cam locking tool on the intake cam and heard a snap. after messing around I discovered the locking pin inside the VVT wasn't staying locked in and I could move the gear throughout the full range of degrees. It would lock but with a bit of rocking back and forth I could get it to unlock. turns out the pin hole was worn enough allowing the pin to unlock without any oil pressure causing the cam to advance causing the rattling noise. installed a new cam and so far, so good.
Good morning. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with everyone. I have a question. What is the second piece that you recommend, not removing the small filter it comes with but cleaning it? Is it the turbocharger?
Finished installing balance shafts on my 2.0 and removed those film screens. Definitely not worth the headache leaving em installed even if brand new.
Underrated channel. Where can I send coco-nuts? ;)
I had installed new cams, on my cat earlier this year drove the car for a month then out of nowhere the engine died. I took it apart and found the vvt cam gear broke from the shaft. I bought a used cylender head that had cam valves and everything for $800. I installed that then started the engine rev the engine and then broke the new/used cam. I broke the exact way as before. I found out I had fuel mixed with my oil. I'm guessing could it be because I didn't replace the fuel injectors seals. I boght a New hpfp for the new cylender head. I'm wondering how can this happen back to back like this.
So the newer exhaust cams have VVT and VVL? I thought they only had VVL on the exhaust side. Good to know.
I be screen recording your stuff
Don’t know when u bout to turn on us with that useful info
Respect tho 😂
Nap your videos are awesome thx for the knowledge of this code
👍
I know this is a pretty old video, but have you seen the updated version dorman has put out? They redesigned the screen to a full metal housing with a stainless mesh. do you think that would be better than oem?
B9 2.0 TFSI 2017- just got this code and I am praying this is the fix. Audi quoted 5k for the repair- exhaust camshaft and adjustor replacement. Car is ticking and bucking/ stalling at low rpm. Started with start stop malfunction. Does this sound like symptoms of this repair?
could you share some information on the 3.2 that comes in a4 n there issues
I wish I had your knowledge on these cars
help!! help!! have p3041 check engine light and EPC flash , flashes more and when I press the gas sometime car stutters when pressing the gas . . have all rdy done Cam & Crank sensors . please any help would be appreciated
thanks for this knowledge
I’ve a similar fault on my 2011 cdnc, epc light and engine check light flashing, plus a serious misfire at idle. It’s just been rebuilt after jumped timing and bent valves due to a tensioner failure, not in my ownership. Does this sound like a faulty intake cam? I really hope I don’t have to pull it apart again 🤦🏼♂️. There are no fault codes for timing, only random misfire codes. Coils plugs all new. Any advice appreciated? I am concerned the cam lobes may have moved when it bent the valves. Thanks
i cant install camshaft exhaust timing . after i put it back everything i cant move my cam shaft its stuck but the second cam moving back and forward . (((( i dont know how properly move exhaust cam . before i installed cam scratched my head valves .
Hey man, great video, I've been going through a ton of learning the hard way with my 2010 A4, chinese parts are hilariously not an option they're so bad! I had a screen break in the cam bridge and wreck havoc on the timing system, did a chain, guides, 3 bridges, 3 oil control valves, and a chinese cam, surprisingly it runs really well, but has a delay on accel, after about 10 miles I get a P000A and then after that a P0011 code, thought the timing was off, checked it, the marks were correct but I noticed on the chinese cam the socket cutaway for the phaser isn't at the same angle as the OE cam, not sure why. Marks line up when checking timing but phaser cut away isn't lined up with the bolt in the head, probably 2 teeth out. Tired of tearing it apart so I've been driving it just fine but wow, no way I'm spending a grand on a repair for such a flimsy timing system! Great insight I love comparing what I've learned with what you have.
@longstrikemaster have you checked if your crank pulley is in time with the crank? Have seen that get a couple guys I’m the shop
Chinese parts do work, mine has Chinese oil pump, bridge, intake cam, balance shafts, timing chain, tensioner, timing cover, pistons, piston rings, Chinese cylinder head, head gasket, lifters. Currently Stage 2 at 15psi, 3" Catted downpipe, exhaust, engine runs well, no issues, no overheating, engine gives me no problems, NO CEL!
Hey what’s man. I been watching all your videos and I have a question for you. I did a bottom end swap on a b8.5 2.0t flex fuel 2015 Q5 with a bottom end from a b8 2.0t 2009-2011 because it had a rod knock. Took the cylinder head to the machine shop to get rebuilt. I put it back together sounds great when it is running but soon cuts off. Is there a difference between the two bottom ends of the engine?
did you ever find out if there is a difference?
Hey brother I don't know how to get ahold of you I'm working on my 2010 Audi A4 I changed my intake on it because I had the intake runner code. And now I still have that cold and the car is still performing sluggishly just seeing if you might of ran into this before
I will say, I just replaced my timing chain, tension, ect a month and a half ago. 1. Thank you NaptownTuner for helping me get though it! 2. I have the 2016 2.0TFSI. The oil control valve screen busted out and caused my timing issues! I say just like the older models of the cam bridge, pop that dang thing out to save yourself some trouble. They basically took it from the cam bridge and moved it to the solenoid. Ridiculous! Okay i'm done with my rant. Back to finishing up watching this video ha.
Yep I did my timing components and my mag adjuster seemed to have been frozen although I never got a P0016 code my phase adaptation value was -8.3° after new chains, both tensioners and all guides and I know all TDC measurements across the bridge were spot on .. turned out the oil flow control valve was stuck and adjuster pin stuck I replaced both with OEM and adaptation went right to -0.11° that is about as close to 0 as I’ve ever seen.. short story .. I do recommend to replace the phaser and adjuster every timing chain job. They’re very inexpensive in the Audi parts world
If you dint mind me
Asking i have done the timing twice as well as the balance shafts and im still seeing a correlation code p0016 and the timing is in time does that oil control valve ever intermittently stop sending oil to the intake cam vvt at the sprocket causing that correlation code? Im stumped here major and tapped out financially as well
@@user-em6uj9vh7c hey man im on the same boat have replaced the timing chains twice and now both balance shafts and I'm still getting a correlation code p0016 and my next guess is to go into the vvt phaser onn the intake side just worried what i will find and if i can put it back together at a wall and worried i dont wanna screw up my audi a 4 , i get a normal start up after i remove codes then a Long crank after i go to restart it again let me know if you found anything out
@NapTownTuner can you chime in for us please
Nice you getting back to cars. Can you do a video on how to inspect junkyard heads, valves and cams? What do I do with a 2006 2T with bent valves? I just want to drive another 1K on an old car. I dont want to rebuild an engine that will outlast the life of the car.
What do you think?
Put new valves... If you cannot inspect a junkyard CH, you should not be working on cars!
I had the magnetic actuator leak oil from the electrical connector.
1:04 I have both magnets broken on a5 (CNCD) 2013
Currently dealing with a crank no start on an S4 4.2 (2004) with a new fuel pump and crank sensor. Stumped why it couldn't be a straight forward issue...
do you have compression ?
@je fais moi même I have 110 on all cylinder except #2 is 80 and #3 is 90
@@dandeangelo98 in your place i'll do a timing check then check the spark plugs .have tried to scan it with obd ?
@je fais moi même I have VCDS. Has spark at coils already checked
I recently was trying to get my audi to idle smoother. Broke down and took it to a specialist shop, they said its normal for the 2.0t to vibrate alot. They suggested the camshaft sensor to the newest revision as the tech showed me the old one was slow to report data. After 6k miles, not sure that changed anything, car still has built in seat vibration
Engine mounts (motor mounts) wear out and cause vibration
@@NaptownTuner i thought the same thing, maybe i should have went stock. I got those fancy shock mounts. Actually got worse slightly
Would the camshaft be at fault if I get a rattle from the camshaft area, no codes only when it revvs up. I disassembled and took off the camshaft bridge the screen was gone and there was scoring on the camshaft bridge, should I just replace the camshaft straight away ?
exact same here did you fix it?
Hello guys, thanks for video.Cylinder head on video easy can be repair. Blades of VVT can be replaced, I refurbished him. No problem, I can help, don’t hesitate, if you have any questions, write me. I can provide photos how it’s made.
How did you come up with the parts?
Provide them, upload a YT slideshow!
I put my money you are full of sh1t!
@@NaptownTuner Hello NaptownTuner 🤗.I ordered those parts in machining workshop in my country.Special strong iron material.Only need measurements gap between blades and blades holder groove.
PS sorry for late reply.
@@user-yl1zp5kp5k I'm looking for theses blades top, where do you fond these ? Any link ?
@NaptownTuner - sent email about 12' Q5 - thanks
I got one of them that went bad if you hear noise coming from that area nine times out of 10 that's solenoid is bad I heard a lot of noise coming out of mine and I replaced it and now it doesn't make noise
I'm dealing with this right now. Just had a full rebuild, 83mm bore, IE pistons, rods and springs, Ferra valves, mhale bearings, arp studs, etc. Got it back and then this happened. I get it back tomorrow. But these cars they make now seem to be all garbage. I had to rebuild due to a failed injector fuel washing #4. Expect nothing less than multiple and massive mechanical failures on VW and Audis.
What year was your vehicle? I just got this code quoted 5k for this repair. Thinking I should sell it unfortunately
@jokitag if you are dealing with this code, it could be the n205 valve inside the cam. Depends on the generation where it is located. That's relatively cheap. If you have to do the entire shaft( like I did mine) it was about 800 bucks at the shop.
Hey Man, need help with diagnosing, really hope you can help, i am completely lost.
I have 2.0 audi tfsi 2013, when the engine reaches working temp. It starts to sound like a diesel engine, knocking loudly. Now if i disconnect either the cam positions sensor or one of the magnetic valve conterollers (i have on both cams) while the engine is runing it sounds perfect again and the knocking is gone, if i connect them back agaim the knocking starts within 10sec.....any ide??
Thanks for any help i can get
Did you ever get this fixed same issue on my end.
@@George241312tenho o mesmo problema no meu Jetta 2013, você teve algum diagnóstico satisfatório?
Naptown, can a faulty oil control valve cause P034100? Mine is intermittent EPC flashes but not the check engine light, but it’s on the log when I scan, happens once in a while.
you fixed that?
same problem
@@negelcancino8176 nope unfortunately. How about you?
@@blvdjae7433 what’s happening with yours?
@@eeiko321 I'm having the same problem you described. Even after new chain, tensioner and guides
Hey guys! For the newer design (the one on the right), which side is intake & which is exhaust? Thanks
When looking directly at the front of the engine. Intakes on the right.
Exhaust on the left.
So P0341 code= replace cylinder head and Install Audi new intake cam(no china crap) OR just new Audi intake cam??? What is the solution?
I never said to replace the cylinder head, You typically don’t need a new cylinder head unless you bend valves from coming out of time. Ive seen broken valve springs and rocker arms (rare) If you’re doing new pistons for oil consumption a cylinder head could be considered but it gets so expensive if you replace everything that you might as well buy a new engine or sell the car to a mechanic. These are great cars for mechanics
@@NaptownTuner got it. Well, I'll report back, going with a new cam from Audi to fix my 2014 Audi A4 with a p0341. Of course new timing chains and guides. Thanks for your insight.
@@NaptownTuner want to buy a slightly used 2011 Tiguan with 16 new valves and freshly done head with code p2015 and code po341 runs great after its warm . Make you a really good deal. Help a brother out. 😅
I have p0341 i change the timing and vvt and got no changes..I think is gonna be the camshft thank to your video
@@return-dk9nwDid you manage to solve the code p0341?
these camshafts/timing components are so faulty you can make an entire series out of these 😭
volkswagen 2014 passat p0011 in the morning when I am starting my car is not doing a cold start on high RPM is start like a normal not making any idle in cold start
I live in Naptown, does anybody know if there’s a way to contact him?
I’m trying to get involved in learning more so I’m slowing down on car repair stuff. I see most of the messages if it’s shortly after I upload
Thats understandable. If you ever get back into car repairs I’ll gladly bring mine to you. Tired of my endless misfires and mishaps
@@EdgeEddie plugs coils injectors / valve cleaning
@@NaptownTuner I’m getting a certain fuel smell. Changed my maf, is running a bit better but still have some misfires. Could it be the fuel pump as well? Before I would have to hit the gas pedal to start
@@EdgeEddie when in doubt replace the hpfp it’s a common failed item that I would replace every 80-100k miles
They're still engineering engines to fail even after knowing about the screens and other things that you change for the better. When they stop manufacturing like that I will finally buy a nice new Audi.
My wife got the pleasure of buying one of these cars. They are straight up over engineered garbage. All this engineering. And zero reliability
You think any of the dip sh#t engineers in Germany watch your channel and learn how to make a better car ? 🇺🇸