Ford Airbag Diagnostic Monitor repair
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- čas přidán 13. 02. 2010
- WARNING: working on airbag systems is inherently dangerous. This video is for entertainment purposes only.
Should you choose to do anything depicted in the video i cannot be held responsible for anything that may happen. I no longer recommend this repair, Replacement of the ADM module is quicker, easier, and safer.
Applies to 1994-1996 broncos and f150s.
The ADM Module used on OBS fords has an internal thermal fuse which is tied to a resistor. When certain faults are detected the module will heat up the resistor causing the fuse to open and set a code. This module is setting a code 51- Internal thermal fuse blown due to intermittent short to ground.This code indicates that a short to ground was detected and the module blew the fuse for safety. In this situation the short must first be repaired or the problem with occur again. In this case no shorts were found. The cause was/is suspected to have been a failed clockspring that had previously been repaired. This is supported by the fact that after the ADM was repaired this code never reappeared.
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This fix absolutely works. I got mine on ebay, use "Thermal Fuse / Cut-Off - 169 C, 336 F, 15A - NTE8167" as your search. (mainly "NTE8167"). My new fuse was bigger in diameter than the original, so I had to dispense with the black and white casing and I made a little "C clamp" from a strip of copper to replace the one that bound the thermal fuse to the black resistor it nests with, apparently for heat-transfer purposes. I had someone use needle nose pliers to pull the old one out as I de-soldered, was a big help with an extra pair of hands. Code 51 gone! So thanks pfun41 for your video, love repairing rather than replacing!
Al Legory did you find the source of your ground? I’ve heard 9 times out of 10 it’s the clock spring.
3:52 That's how the thermal fuse blows when the microcontroller inside detects a fault in the airbag circuit it sends power to that 15 ohm resistor briefly it heats up and blows the thermal fuse it's strapped to. That's why it's clipped onto the thermal fuse for maximum heat transfer.
This disables the SRS system (because there is a fault somewhere) to prevent accidental deployment of the airbag.
Thanks for the video and information. I had a problem closing the small box that contains the thermal fuse and resistor. I could close it but it wouldn't stay closed, finally I used three very small zip ties to keep it closed - it will stay closed now. I have pictures of the box and zip ties that I could post here if that was possible. Thanks again for the video, you saved me some bucks.
This is what I needed to fix my ford aerostar. Thank you
This is the most helpful video I’ve ever seen. Thank you.
Very informative, I am going to attempt this on my 91 Lincoln.
WoW thank you vary munch!! I repair my short to ground. And replace my thermal fuse. Now my airbag light is out.
Stephen
@pfun41 I appreciate your feedback and I agree that fifty-five bucks for a junk-yard part is not a good idea; especially when the cause of the short is not pin-pointed. I had my dash apart to fix the shift linkage and I unhooked the connector for the CLOCK-SPRING. That MIGHT have cause mine to go; I also had a blown alternator regulator which could have contributed to this too... just some stuff for the readers who are having the same problem.
This is useful advice ONLY if the original short to ground has been discovered and resolved...if not,ur wasting ur time and the new fuse will blow Instantly.. seeing all the comments asking what was the Cause of the short and seeing no replies... the root cause needs to be addressed
The root cause was suspected to be the failed clockspring that had been replaced as no other issues were found at the time. This is supported by the fact that its been over a decade since this video was posted, even longer since it was taken. And the issue has not reoccurred.
Great video! Did you ever find the short that caused the fuse to blow?
When those go bad, does it make a repetitive beeping sound after turning off the ignition? Think it would be easier to replace the whole module?
great info for my 95 e150 Thanks
Ah, gotcha. Thanks again for posting.
Do you have a part number for the thermal fuses or a picture of the packaging?
Thanks.
auto dimmer wires by the rearview mirror caused my #18 fuse to keep blowing. Fixed my problem. I got lucky n didnt have to do the thermal fuse
Hey man, great stuff. I got a 1995 F-150 with the same light flashing as in your other video. Where is this module located? Thanks!
Where was the short? I have a similar issue and would like to do this repair. Thanx!!
Did you have to take the bottom of the dash apart to remove the module?
buying a fuse is a bit confusing, 168 F, and/or 77C and then, they usually talk about 15 A at 120v or 10A at 220v. Can you please be painfully exact on what fuse ? thanks
did you find the short in your system? If so? How?.. Thanks.
do you know what air bag code 47
Not sure what the clockspring is. Where is it located and what does it do? Thx.
where was your short to ground?
Would this also fix the code 52?
Mine did the same thing. But I also need to replace the resistor. Where can I obtain one? The resistor looks like it is metal.
If it has color codes then use those to decipher the resistance. As far as the type there's a few kinds, you would need to read up on them, I'm sure there's a style that is metallic. Otherwise a junkyard airbag diagnostic monitor would be a good bet.
@pfun41 Was the 168° fuse in C° or F°?
good question because the one from Goodman's is in Celsius which makes it really high if it's supposed to be Fahrenheit
I got a 33 Pin 7 Not Grounded at Diagnostic Monitor . For my code for a 1997 Ford ranger.
I wish you had showed where the diagnostic is usually in the vehicle. It had a dark shot of the dashboard interior.
There's a different video for airbag diagnostic codes.
nobody ever talkes about the short where was it ?????
I have a 92 f150. 6cyl. Auto. Keeps blowing fuse. Trans shifts immediately to overdrive. Won't shift down. As well. When good fuse installed. Gas gauge quits working. Fuse blows. Gas gauge starts working. Trans don't shift 🤔🤷🤯😥
That's a PCM problem,
can someone help me with 2005 gt mustange thanks
did you ever figure it out?
Would have been nice if you included the Part Number!!
I think its NTE8167
Part # NTE8167
Do you know the part number for the 15 ohm resistor by any chance?