ONSIGHT: Greatest Climbing Fun | Adam Ondra
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- čas přidán 30. 05. 2024
- The new video is pure climbing content, along with some of my insights and comments. If you are a climbing fanatic, go and have a look! Since I was a little kid, I have always loved going into the crag I had never been and just trying to onsight everything the crag has to offer. Fortunately, around Arco, there are still a few crags that I have never been to.
Castello di Drena was one of them.
NOTE: The trick around time 01:00 can be potentially dangerous!
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:12 - Climbing Crags around Arco
00:20 - Ascent of Braboletta 8b (Castello di Drena)
01:00 - Onsight Developing Trick (The trick can be potentially dangerous)
01:30 - The Second Try
03:52 - Entering the Best Part of the Route
04:10 - The Crux
04:49 - L'occhio Della Tigre 8a+
05:53 - Onsight - The Greatest Climbing Fun
07:00 - Top of the Route L'occhio Della Tigre 8a+
07:15 - Outro
Climbing shoes I use in this video: La Sportiva Solution Comp:
www.lasportiva.com/alpencore/...
www.lasportiva.com/alpencore/...
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#climbing #onthego #rockclimbing - Sport
He is onsighting an 8b and still looks way more comfortable than me trying a 7a for the 23rd time... beautiful.
Don't worry, your 1st time on a 7a may look more comfortable than my 10th time on a 6a :)
There really is a profound beauty in that.. Well stated!
@@aracanthe7251 same bro
It’s the internal journey that counts. When you will make that 7a, you will be a better climber.
Nice music on your Channel!
Absolutely! Onsight climbing is the most pure and joyful experience in rock climbing. In the moment, 100% focus, effort and problem solving. The best!
Great vid as always, thanks!!
2:07 that quickdraw 😱
What's wrong? The perma draw?
@@drqazlop The (not closing) gate!
Wow, the production quality and Adam's commentary on the routes, climbing in general, and a bit of his thought process... this channel and these videos deserve at least 10x more subs and views, respectively, no hyperbole.
Even if a main attraction of these videos were not the anatomy of Adams insane feats of skill, power and endurance and his analysis of climbing problems - the upbeat, joyfully serious dedication to challenge and the sheer, unadulterated joy he exudes when things go right could carry a channel in it’s own right. ☺
(Edit: I don’t know the first thing about climbing, and I get a rush just getting out of my chair)
Just beautiful video! Very soothing, the off the cam voice from Adam is always educational and relaxing.
You're an inspiration. Absolut legend for me.
Onsighting is the only true climbing. Not because it is a feat, but because it releases so much senses. Mind, Body and Discovery become one magic journey, whether the route is hard, or not.
Another awesome vid :) I love the voiceover explaining every move.
Looks great! and cold (belayer). Always good to see a new Ondra video
just came from rewatching silence for the 4th time. Cant wait to watch this!
You have such a nice energi. Thanks for another great video. Inspiring.
A pleasure, as always!
6:05 - 6:30 this style of camera is amazing, like... next gen. Please try including more in the future, thanks/diky.
It so cool to see someone onsighting the grades, which are my absolute limit
Greetings from Argentina bro! You're the best...
Genial Master un abrazo gigante.
Always amazing climb
That trick with moving quickdraw looked insanely risky😅
'Insanely' is maybe a bit big... Maybe not a tactic for much less experienced climbers but I'm sure Adam was completely unconcerned.
I wonder why you want to move it at all.
@@AW-po7jr It makes him save a few seconds since the quickdraw is already clipped
@@alexandrelapalme1943 A few seconds where he's not secured at all, while having one of his hands occupied by his quickdraw. Would not recommend
@@matt989253 it also saves him a bunch of Quickdraws. Good trick for professionals, not recommended for us mortals.
that rock on your first route looks like rock where i'm from in virginia thats gnarly!!!so sick
like seeing all the places you go. From a climbers eyes
Great video, nice
I'm just getting into lead climbing outdoors, can I ask a noob question? That first route in particular did not seem to have an obvious place to attack an anchor/retie your knot through the bolts. So does he just leave his last quickdraw up there? Thanks in advance.
No. There would be an anchor there.
there is an anchor at the top. He will just go down retaking all of his quickdraws.
what the others said. Plus, there are strategies to get all your gear out even if there is only like one bolt and still get down safely and with the rope unharmed. BUT, you should NOT learn them from videos, but from an actual climbing trainer. Have fun leading friend!
Looked as though several were permanently equipped which makes coming down and removing draws which were placed easy. Often the first few bolts will be left open because they receive a lot of wear and tear and allow an easier time stick clipping the first bolt or two
Nice! 👏👏👏
Fantastic mind-blowing unbelievable sir lu sir from India
The routes you're onsighting would take me weeks to do... It's amazing
Only 2 weeks...not bad :)
lifes for me...
@@juliopastor516 I'm jealous
Bravo
Adam is climbing 8b, with like ease on, this is nothing, and when he climbs, it looks so smooth :)
Nice climb! But what are those shoes👀
He's like the Timothy chalamet of rock climbing, love what you do man!
The style you're looking for is: GROUND-UP! the best fun. The first route here (8b) was ground-up.
You mean the bolting style?
fajny fillm, pozdrawiam 😀
Are you using those super light mammout draws? What do you think?
sei il migliore
What are the reasons for a decission to go for the women's version of a (single) shoe for adam ? He does it from time to time, but I wonder why?
Ouuuuuuuyeaaaaaa!!
very nice voiceover!
looks like routes above mid exit of Via Ferrata Rio Sallagoni
Onsighting is also for me the amalgama of "free climbing", no matter the difficulty.
Hey Adam! Why did you wear one solution womens and one solutions comp for this climb?
good question. probably something fashionable 😂
People's right and left foot are sometimes different, so that might be it. Or maybe he needs to do a specific move with either his right/left foot that requires one shoe or the other
czcams.com/video/a5CT8B6eI0A/video.html&start_radio=1&t=90s
He has mentioned wearing two different shoes in past videos. Usually just depending on what he feels he needs.
@@ahoward3819 Just asking why. I know he mentioned for Silence rocking the Miura's and the Solutions, but that's on a redpointed route. When trying to onsight, I don't see how he could just be on the ground and say "I want the softer Solution's Womens paired with the extra toe rubber of the solution's comp" ya feel?
If Adam's view is that onsighting is the best part of climbing, I wonder what other top tier climbers think.
I think everyone has their own preference. But some notable onsight-cllimbers are: Said Belhaj, for whom it has been a big part of his climbing, and philosophy, to say the least. Jakob Schubert is very accomplished in it but I don't know how much he likes it. Alex has said his proudest climb was an onsight, a 9a. And from what I've heard, Chris Sharma always goes for the onsight no matter how low the chances of success are.
Onsighting is very good training for competitions so I think they all practice it, but that doesn't mean that good onsight climbers love onsighting.
One thing Adam didn't mention is that there are so many good climbs out there and by projecting routes you will miss out on so many other fantastic climbs. That's one way to look at it :)
@@adamborg1 it’s not like Adam doesn’t project lol
@@BobMarley-vl5gl One doesn't exclude the other. But not everyone intentionally goes for onsighting as much as him, and in his own words: "It was pretty often that if I fell on my onsight try, I wasn't even interested in giving it [a] second go". So where others would have been stuck projecting, he went on to other things.
what's the difference between onsight and flash ? thank's for the answer and great video
Onsight you never see and you don't know any move or trick of the route. Flash you already see someone or you know some movement
Not as hard and fast as “have seen someone on the route”. Most people will make their own distinction between had beta which helped them send the route first try, a flash, and did not have beta but still sent the route first try, an onsight. You know if someone’s beta got you the send, and you know if it didn’t.
@@zacharylaschober Thats not how it works, if you had beta its a flash, doesnt matter if it helped you or not, you had prior knowledge of it.
@@saprapzuuu5216 except this isn’t hard and fast because, again, most people will make this distinction as to what constitutes beta for themselves. If I intensely study you on a climb, I would lie if I said I onsighted, but if someone else did this and wanted to say… what do I care unless this is groundbreaking? I am not some climbing shoe brand sponsoring them, and there will always be someone for whom you fail the purity test. Want to say useless beta blows the onsight? Great, every climb you will ever get on has a jug at fourth bolt that you should heel toe cam for a rest. Blew every onsight for you, except you can make the distinction for useless beta.
Backstage of Adam's honeymoon phase :)
the quickdraw trick is impressively gutsy on an onsight. whats the reasoning behind this? speed?
yea pretty much
Bolts very close together and a secure enough position that he’s confident to do it.
Why are the shoes different colours? Different models?
A dream ! …pure dream …
I onsighted a 4c the other day
Extensions ?
What does on sighting mean?
5:30 where is the braking hand on that grigri bro
We gonna ignore the 2 diff shoes 0_0
Soo, Mammut exchanged Black Diamond? 🤔
Was about to say this, BD and Adam ended sponsorship but idk why, now it seems Mammut is in on it, maybe they pay more lol.
Hi Adam, take down the quickdraw from the bottom to put it higher! No no :)
Difference between onsight and FA?
When he did the first first ascent of a 9a+. Wasn’t it also an onsight?
@@kabesa5265 No, onsight is the most valuable form of ascent. No discussion about the route, no quickdraws, no route study upfront. Even when you fall, then you finish it, its not an onsight.
Ditched montura?
Hand shredder
ok. can we talk a bit about Adam using different shoes there? Like on Silence?
Also, can we talk about him doing that 8a+ like nothing while I can at best do this for 6b?
Without #mammut, he'd still be shirtless :)
Noooooo! Hai cestinato lo sponsorship Montura per Mammut!?
Have a question for those who can answer. Adams wearing two different shoes when climbing? Whats the reason behind this? :)
Every shoe is different and does different things, sometimes we wear different shoes because of a specific heel hook or toe hook move, maybe a foot jam like Adam did in Silence, or other times it could be for injury reasons, if your foot is hurt, wear a softer/larger shoe, he is wearing the male solution on his left and the female solution on his right, the female version is slightly slimmer but softer soled, so maybe his right for hurts from stiff shoes, or the opposite, his left foot hurts and he’s using a more spacious mens shoe, who knows. But the relationship between climber and shoe is a deep and mysterious one, for the most part it’s trial and error and listening to your body to see what best works for you and then you work on fine tuning it.
😊💯🌟🥰😍😇❣️💖😘
Hit like if you missed Adam screaming!
nice
Hmmm... No more Black Diamond and Montura sponsor? Mammut paid a lot I guess..
I can't see why is good trick to move quick draws between blots
p̴r̴o̴m̴o̴s̴m̴ ✨
Moving a single quick draw up? I don't think that's a good suggestion for "most" people
I bet that also the climbs he does are not "good suggestions" for most people, lol
Wait a minute: he fell, and one still calls that an onsight ?
No, he's acknowledged that it's no longer an onsight, but simply continuing the conversation about onsighting.