I suggest you set your caliper to 120mm then with a rule measure how far the rod sticks out at the back , you say 120mm is to the notch but I have just tried 4 different calipers, from the cheapest up to a mitutoyo and on all of them the 120mm is to the end of the rod not to the notch, the notch is simply so you can get into small diameter holes to measure their depth . Assuming your caliper is like all the ones I tried then your extrusion is about 90mm not 100
Yes, to the end it's 120, but on the digital side you can zero out measurements. So pull out the caliper to the notch. Zero out the measurement. Then pull out another 120mm.. I think I mention it in the video somewhere to zero out the notch.. The idea is to get 120mm using any type of measurement device. I thought the notch helped out holding the measuring stick in place.
The TM3D firmware has a esteps entry screen under settings / offsets. I wish the video had shown that so I could have shared it with someone else. I understand you probably wanted to show something that would work regardless of the printer model.... I'm just trying to find something that shows the simple / easy touch screen method.
@@DiyProJames if I had a tripod camera I'd do it. My hands shake too much for me to film it. There is an entry screen where you can put the steps in. It doesn't get much easier.
@@underourrock I've seen this too, but I haven't messed with it. I wonder if you could calibrate the E steps by just using that screen? Would it allow you to change and save your adjustments?
@@rbarraza123 yes. That's how I calibrate my esteps. Work flow:. Set nozzle temperature, measure and mark 100 and 120mm on the filament, when heated, I go into the refuel screen and extrude 100mm. I measure the delta between 100mm and the actual extrusion. With the actual extrusion I calculate a factor that modifies the esteps. On the esteps screen I enter the new value and save it right there. Some versions of Marlin need a reboot at that stage. So reboot after saving successful message just to be be safe.
What if the extruded settings have been previously altered? For example, mine is at E142.8 from a previous calibration…now i just installed a new all metal hotend and want to make sure esteps are good… should I reset back to E140 before doing the test again?
Hi! Are you aware of the Creality Facebook Page? Nice to know but my e-steps were also spot on. However, I did have problems with the tube pushing out from the gear extruder side.
I think there are several creality facebook groups; which one are you referring to? Are you saying the ptfe tube was loose? Could you elaborate on the details not sure what you mean and were you able to fix it?
@@DiyProJames Creality Official User Group. I was printing happily when I noticed a clunking noise. When I looked closely I saw my filament clogged up on the extruder gear. This happened 3x. Figured the pneumatic fitting wasn't able to hold the capricorn tube. So I installed a thingiverse bowden tube helper.
Yes, it should apply to the original firmware as well.. The original firmware is a version of the marlin firmware so the gcodes or commands should be the same...
@@mclareniak Yes, if you watch my video closely. It does not return a value until I enter the m503 command.. Please check the description to see the commands associated with e step calibration. First m500 to save the steps. Then m503 to see if the changes have been made to the printer..
Nice video, really! But I came up with a problem. Sending the G1 E100 F100 the extruder skips teeth and it looks like it wants to extrude the 100mm instantly. Nozzle temp 205 for PLA using CR10s pro V2. Could you point me in the right direction how to know the right speed? (if I use the Extrude button in Prointerface it goes as planned)
my extruder spring was too strong and the gear was tearing the filament up so that it got stuck in the bowden tube. I had to cut a turn off of the spring to get it to stop this. Is this what you meant by skipping teeth?
@@DiyProJames The ProV2 seems to have a issue where the command sends the extruder flying. It is not trying to do 100mm/minute, it seems to be trying to do 1000 or more a minute. When sending G1 E100 F100 it causes the extruder to try to push it too fast, causing skipping and not feeding close to the 100. I guess that most know what feedrate is, especially after watching this, it just seems that proV2 has a issue with this command.
I suggest you set your caliper to 120mm then with a rule measure how far the rod sticks out at the back , you say 120mm is to the notch but I have just tried 4 different calipers, from the cheapest up to a mitutoyo and on all of them the 120mm is to the end of the rod not to the notch, the notch is simply so you can get into small diameter holes to measure their depth . Assuming your caliper is like all the ones I tried then your extrusion is about 90mm not 100
Yes, to the end it's 120, but on the digital side you can zero out measurements. So pull out the caliper to the notch. Zero out the measurement. Then pull out another 120mm.. I think I mention it in the video somewhere to zero out the notch.. The idea is to get 120mm using any type of measurement device. I thought the notch helped out holding the measuring stick in place.
Thanks! a recently verify my extrusion and this video help me a lot!!!
You're welcome!
Thanks for that video man =) this helps a lot =)
Glad it helped!
Hi, Thanks for your Video! I thanks to you were able to update Cr10pro with BLtouch once more thanks for hard work!
You're welcome and enjoy!!
I guess I'm kind of randomly asking but does anyone know of a good place to watch new movies online ?
@Ronin Graysen I use FlixZone. You can find it by googling =)
Hi, thanks for the video! Is it necessary to use the pronterface software, or can we just use the slicer's custom code to set the new e-steps value?
Great video, thanks.
Once changed, the value you send to the printer is automatically saved, correct?
The m500 command saves it to the printer..
The TM3D firmware has a esteps entry screen under settings / offsets. I wish the video had shown that so I could have shared it with someone else. I understand you probably wanted to show something that would work regardless of the printer model.... I'm just trying to find something that shows the simple / easy touch screen method.
You could make a short clip and upload to share. I don't think there is a easy simple way when trying to get it to work perfectly.
@@DiyProJames if I had a tripod camera I'd do it. My hands shake too much for me to film it. There is an entry screen where you can put the steps in. It doesn't get much easier.
@@underourrock I've seen this too, but I haven't messed with it. I wonder if you could calibrate the E steps by just using that screen? Would it allow you to change and save your adjustments?
@@rbarraza123 yes. That's how I calibrate my esteps.
Work flow:. Set nozzle temperature, measure and mark 100 and 120mm on the filament, when heated, I go into the refuel screen and extrude 100mm. I measure the delta between 100mm and the actual extrusion.
With the actual extrusion I calculate a factor that modifies the esteps. On the esteps screen I enter the new value and save it right there.
Some versions of Marlin need a reboot at that stage. So reboot after saving successful message just to be be safe.
@@TorNichols wow that’s awesome! Thanks I’m going to try it
What if the extruded settings have been previously altered? For example, mine is at E142.8 from a previous calibration…now i just installed a new all metal hotend and want to make sure esteps are good… should I reset back to E140 before doing the test again?
Do you really have to push it through extruder? cannot you unplug bowden tube and just let it run out the other end?
Hi! Are you aware of the Creality Facebook Page? Nice to know but my e-steps were also spot on. However, I did have problems with the tube pushing out from the gear extruder side.
I think there are several creality facebook groups; which one are you referring to? Are you saying the ptfe tube was loose? Could you elaborate on the details not sure what you mean and were you able to fix it?
@@DiyProJames Creality Official User Group. I was printing happily when I noticed a clunking noise. When I looked closely I saw my filament clogged up on the extruder gear. This happened 3x. Figured the pneumatic fitting wasn't able to hold the capricorn tube. So I installed a thingiverse bowden tube helper.
The tube was rocking back and forth loosely during my print.
I can't get my cr10s pro v2 to connect to pronterface. could you explain this? Thanks in advance!
on note if you try to feed with pronterface then it retracts not feed.. not sure why
Please, does your video also apply to the original firmware from the manufacturer?
Yes, it should apply to the original firmware as well.. The original firmware is a version of the marlin firmware so the gcodes or commands should be the same...
@@DiyProJames Unfortunately, the M92 E141.2 command does not work. Write Sending, but OK does not return. czcams.com/video/o9HvIrvOmlI/video.html
@@mclareniak Yes, if you watch my video closely. It does not return a value until I enter the m503 command.. Please check the description to see the commands associated with e step calibration. First m500 to save the steps. Then m503 to see if the changes have been made to the printer..
@@DiyProJames Thank you, it's OK.
Nice video, really! But I came up with a problem. Sending the G1 E100 F100 the extruder skips teeth and it looks like it wants to extrude the 100mm instantly. Nozzle temp 205 for PLA using CR10s pro V2.
Could you point me in the right direction how to know the right speed?
(if I use the Extrude button in Prointerface it goes as planned)
F is the feedrate... F100 is 100mm/minute.. Please look up feedrate..
Did you solve this problem? It's happening to me right now and can't seem to fix it (also creality cr10s Pro v2)
my extruder spring was too strong and the gear was tearing the filament up so that it got stuck in the bowden tube. I had to cut a turn off of the spring to get it to stop this. Is this what you meant by skipping teeth?
@@DiyProJames The ProV2 seems to have a issue where the command sends the extruder flying. It is not trying to do 100mm/minute, it seems to be trying to do 1000 or more a minute. When sending G1 E100 F100 it causes the extruder to try to push it too fast, causing skipping and not feeding close to the 100.
I guess that most know what feedrate is, especially after watching this, it just seems that proV2 has a issue with this command.
Found that a F0.2 worked well for me, was about 40 seconds
Please give me link of the cooling extruder fan duct white color I need to print on my same CR10S Pro
There are two versions:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541802
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4226193
@@DiyProJames thanks 😊
@@jotirlingswami9357 you're welcome
Hi can you use pronterface to get higher extruder temperature
No, you shouldn't be able to exceed the maximum temperature set by the firmware, but you can adjust the temperature within the min max range.
Would these steps be the same for a CR10 S Pro V2?
Yes, works the same with all the printers using marlin firmware.
This video is unnecessarily long.
Apologize.. I'll try to shorten it next time.