Staging Yard Tracks and Switch Machines (234)
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- čas přidán 25. 12. 2021
- Today we'll pick up where I left off on Friday with installing the yard tracks and their wiring, then move on to adding the Cobalt iP Digital switch machines and their linkage to the turnouts. So let's get started!
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Another informative video!
I agree with you on that!!!
Looks interesting 🤔
Thanks, Larry, I echo the Thanks and Appreciation of other Subscribers, another excellent Video. Thank you and stay safe. Been a little busy following the Festive Season so catching up with your latest Productions.
Thank you for doing these vids for us Larry, they are very helpful. My I offer a tip? I use some 3"x"5" magnetic backed mirrors and a metal L bracket to see the backside of tracks when soldering. Really helps in n scale to see what I am doing and not melt all my track. Keep up the great work.
Howzit Larry : To Improve One's Soldering and To Reduce The * Dwell-Time * Of The Hot Soldering Iron Against The Track-Plastic .... Prior To The Application Of Flux; Scratch-Up / Rough-Up The Outer-Side Of The Rail With A Sharp File At The Selected Site Of Solder-Application .... It Will CHANGE Your Outlook On Life ! In Thanking You For Your Series During The Course Of This Past Difficult Year; May I Take This Opportunity To Wish You; Your Family and Loyal Viewers Well For The New Year .... Cheers For Now + Stay Safe/ Johnny
Interesting info I have just experienced.... I have Digitrax controllers and Cobalt switch machines.
The Cobalt IP analogue switch machines will NOT work with Digitrax DS74 decoders....you have to get the Omega Classic decoders with the switch on the circuit board set to 12-18v (not 6-12v). this will bring the current drawn down sufficiently to not reset the decoder. Could you let your viewers know so they do not make expensive mistakes!
Paul.
For insulated gaps I use PECO plastic rail joiners - these have a plastic spacer to stop the rails touching - keeps then aligned
Great job looking good 🚂😎👍👍👍👍👍
Interesting and informative video Larry. Thanks very much.
Keith
THANK YOU FOR YOUR DETAILED VIDEO
Thanks Larry.🐾 🚂
Thanks for all your educational videos. I'm reading up on model railroading, planning on being either an HO or N scale modeler.
Super video😉
Do you think you could do a layout tour?
I appreciate all the helpful videos and might I suggest that you tell your viewers what temperature you have your soldering iron set for.
I have discussed this in my videos on soldering. I don’t recommend a set temperature for anyone new to soldering, they should experiment and find what is right and works for them. I use a much hotter tip than I would recommend for most modelers.
My modules have to withstand temperature extremes while in storage which is why I don't solder rail joiners.
HELLO LARRY ITS IS RANDY AND MERRY CHRISMAN AND HAPPY NEW YEAR'S THANKS LARRY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL LARRY AND THE BIG STAGING YARD BUILD--YARD AND SWITCH MACHINES FRIEND LARRY RANDY
Larry, Hope you had a nice Christmas Day I always used that type of point on my soldering iron and it does fit nicely in the rails good tip for others. Are you planning to cover the Cobalt IP digital machines when you do landscaping in the yard?
Tom-it’s a hidden staging yard, no scenery at all.
PS : I See The Same Query Has Been Raised In The Comments Below .... I Am Indeed Surprised To Note That As A Recognised Electronic and DCC Expert Like Yourself; You Recommend A Straight-Off * BARE + NEKKID * Gap In The Track; There Being NO Form Of Plastic / Isolating Joiners To Be Used For An Assured Electrical Break and / or Secure Rail Alignment ! By Using A Bog-Standard Plastic-Joiner; One Can STILL Leave An Adequate Expansion-Gap; With The Longterm Assurance An Electrical Break In The Circuit and Necessary Rail Alignment ( Especially As You Mentioned This Will Be A * Hidden * Staging Yard With Reduced Future Accessability ). Much Ta / Johnny
Hi, Larry, I am very interesting with your staging yard tracks and I like to have some information how I can build it in my layout. Thank you
Does anyone have any experience w the new wireless soldering irons that seem to be popping up in stores?
Another great video - thx. Question: I see others brushing alcohol over the soldering connection. Do you feel it's not necessory?
I will go over the joints with an alcohol soaked rag (as I mentioned in one of the videos) as soon as I finish all the soldering. This is done to remove any rosin flux residue from the joint.
@@TheDCCGuy Sorry guess I missed that one. Happy New Year
HELLO...Really enjoyed this video. What was the clear paste that you applied to the rail before you put solder on it? I am just starting my yard. THANK YOU.
That is rosin flux, which prevents the metal from oxidizing during the soldering process. Most solder now comes with about 2% flux in it but when applying a lot of heat, such as when soldering to rails, the flux can burn off so a little extra paste flux helps. I have discussed this in my soldering videos.
Gezz Larry you've sure made ALOT of progress *Question* it appears..you leave Heat on joins for awhile What's your heat set @ ? ( confession, belive it's in your archives so yes that make me lazy after ALL this hard work you've done for us & the channel) BTW my best to you Larry in "22"
I don’t advertise the temp I use since it is likely hotter than most new to soldering should use. Instead I tell folks to practice their soldering on scrap wire and track and begin with temp setting that just melts the solder. Then increase the temp as required.
@@TheDCCGuy Yes Sir RESULTS MAY VERY according to 1's experience & equipment.
Larry, in the close-up for soldering the switch rails to track rails at 12:00-13:00 it appears the switches are of a larger rail code than the track, I would guess switches are code 83 and the track is code 75. Do you do anything to level up the top of the rails or don't you find it necessary in this application?
I like what you have done with the Cobalt IP Digital machines and LM-iD detectors, especially for automating reverse loops (video 197) and have the exact same application on a hidden reverse loop, but they are proving as hard to find as hen's teeth here in North America. I've checked the links you provided in video 188 and no one seems to have them. Any further suggestions where to look as ordering from U.K. comes with obscene shipping charges?
All track and turnouts in the yard are MicroEngineering code 83. I am surprised the Cobalts are not available at places like Iron Planet Hobbies, maybe shipping delays. If folks ask for them more I am sure they will get them in. As for ordering from England, I do it all the time and shipping is usually cheaper than from my US hobby shop in SC. I also don’t have to pay the UKs VAT or any local sales taxes. My favorites are Hattons.co.uk and RailsofSheffield.com . I just checked eBay and there are a lot available from sellers there as well.
I just heard back from the DCC Concepts sales manager and he says that the US distributor, Heartland Hobbies, has the iP Digitals in stock and any dealer that deals with them can order them quickly, so just ask the folks I mentioned. Also he said that the shipping costs from DCC Concepts should be comparable to what I have experienced from Rails of Sheffield which is about £10-15 or $13-20 for Royal Mail shipping to the US. I checked the Mountain Subdivision Hobbies (in New York) website and they have them in stock too.
I also just heard back from Ryan at Iron Planet Hobbies and he has them too. See this link www.ironplanethobbies.com/product/dccconcepts-cobalt-classic-ω-turnout-motor-digital-decoder-1-pc-cb1omd/
I have a small Atlas ho-7 layout. It won't have an additional sections. Should I then terminate one end of my dcc bus? Is there a preferred method of terminating a bus?
For most buses no termination is required. Most systems can be wired linearly, in a star or palmate pattern, check your manual for their specific recommendations.
Do you ever use insulated rail joiners for the gaps?
I wondered why you'd not used insulated rail joiners too, Larry. I'd have thought they'd help keep the rails aligned, particularly if you accidentally caught the end of the rail with a sleeve or a cleaning rag.
I do but in this case will not. I want the expansion gaps open so the tracks can expand if necessary. In the next video I will show you what I do at the isolation gaps.
You''re installing the IPW Switch Machine on top of the layout?
Yes. Remember this is a hidden staging yard that no one will see. The lower portion of the layout will be covered by a black cloth drape. So it doesn’t matter where they are. Plus it makes it easier to install, wire, and maintain them.
@@TheDCCGuy I see.
I am seeing a lot about model train technology signals can you do a review if possible
Why isn't all of this wiring UNDER the table??
Because this is a HIDDEN staging yard and no one will see it. Putting it on top of the foam is a lot easier than trying to access the underside which is only about 16” above the floor and will make maintenance a lot easier.
It's not clear to me why you are controlling power via the green wires to each ladder track when you are using DCC. Does a DCC locomotive consume much power when it isn't selected?
Locos use little power when stopped, and the lights and sound are turned off. However, I have found from experience that model railroaders cannot be counted on to turn off the lights and sound after running a locomotive so I am engineering it into the yard so power is removed as soon as the turnout is thrown back to the ladder. It also prevents loco creep which happens because folks tend not to to throttle down all the way even if they think they do, and that is doubly likely if they cannot see it in front of them.
Howzit : If One Scratches-Up The Side Of The Rail At The Solder-Site Of With A Sharp File Prior To The Application Of Flux; The Required * Dwell-Time * Of The Soldering-Iron Is GREATLY Reduced; As Is The Chance Of Melting The Plastic Track-Base Of Finely-Detailed Track ( Like Code # 83 and Lower Codes ). Also; The Simple Use Of Crocodile-Clips As Placed On Either Side Of The Solder-Site As Local Heat-Sinks Also Greatly Reduces The Chance Of Plastic Melting / Distortion. Further; It May Be Counter-Intuative; But I Do Believe It Is An Advantage To Use A HIGH Soldering-Temperature To Get The Job Done * Quick and Proper-Like; * As Opposed To Having To Hang About For Ages Where The Rail Itself Is Acting As A Heat-Sink and Is Removing The Heat Away From The Solder-Site To Possibly Cause Damage Elsewhere .... Nuff Said.