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Greatest hobby to invest into Ho locomotive's with DCC n Sound technology they give the locomotive's more power n they'll run better with sound technology than regular version.

I hope you are well larry it has been a little over a month since the last video. Best wishes!

Many thanks Larry not least for the quick response, the video is just what the doctor ordered to clarify the process with the Kadee parts to complete the job, many thanks - John

Hi Larry! where do I find your recent video on converting UK couplers to Kadee, I've seen it once but can't find it again to make sure I order the correct parts to convert my UK rolling stock with Kadee couplers. Thanks John Boyle

this looks much neater than the "dead bug" version! I'd like to see if I can cram it into a UK N-gauge brake van ;)

Love the concept but I'd want to make up a small circuit board for this! I've an ambition to use a Hall switch in the roof so you can tap the vehicle with a magnet on a stick to turn the lighting on or off - an accessory decoder seems like overkill!

I start with small vacuum to all the rails; using natural dusting brush. Then light application of CRC 6-56 (displaces, penetrates, protects). Zero VOC’s; with micro fiber cloths, or t shirts. Use as little as it takes to do the job (this is always the key with anything used on track).. Sometimes use alcohol and m. spirits; but ONLY on track that has not been installed on the layout. Older, used track generally. So there. I clean and electrically condition track perfectly before using on layout. Then going forward, all that is ever needed is vacuuming and fluid cleaning. I do use No-Ox ID; but as instructed (thin application and wiped well so no grease residue is left). Results? less light flickering and smooth running engines....

Re: JST plugs Polarity Correction. 2 pin connector, use a sharp knife of razor blade to ease up the retaining plastic, gently pull the cables out, gently push them back into the correct location. I feel the correction activity is good investment for 2 minutes, is MUCH better result with far less worry or possibility of future error. Thanks for your video, a great reference. PS I Recently purchase some Chinese made JST9 pin connectors, using the above technique, corrected the cable color sequence, so now using them with JST9 DCC chips in old Athearn Locos. :)

Wouldn’t you want the model tech aligners NOT glued to the board? To me, it makes sense to have the last inch of track, where the aligners are, able to have that very limited flexibility to lock in place every single time. It’s only the last inch & I know not everyone would agree with this, but this would create a point of connection at the track seam not completely dependant on the module connectors. This way if a bolt hole expands or a pin shifts over time on the module, the track interlocking seam will find its way to a perfect connection. Cheers!

Larry I’m a little worried, you made some comments about health and haven’t heard from you, hope all is well and sending prayers just in case 😊

I can't find the digitrax toolbox on my android phone. Did digitrax get rid of it?

I always use Dupont connections for wiring to lights. It's a lot easier to remove the shell when you want to detail.

[thank, you for great helpful video]👍

[thank, you for youre great helpful video]👍

Larry: What is Styrene? What is ABS? What is the difference? Do they both take the same cement? What are most diesel locomotive shells made of - ABS, or styrene? I have a tube of "Testors Cement for Plastic Models" and a jar of clear liquid (brush in the bottle) called "Testors Plastic Cement". Both are old. Which would I use on a locomotive shell? I broke a footboard off the front of a favorite locomotive and I want to re-attach it without botching the job. And I don't mind buying Plastruct Bondene if you feel that is the way to go. Your experience would be appreciated.......... Thanks for this video.

Dear Sir, I had just problems laying the flex track in a curve, for the firtst time, so I have now the solution. Thank you very much ! Greetings from Belgium

Just wanted to update and say that I tried again from scratch and I got it to work, woohoo! This time I didn't use the led, not sure if that had anything to do with it as I tried it with another tortoise switch machine.

Larry, I hope all is well with your family, and that you are in good health. Best Wishes

how difficult would it be for retrofit (after track installation)? any major issues other than ripping out a turnout?

Hod can you do program on nce I try figure it out

Larry, When you make a process change you should only change one thing at a time then step back and watch the results otherwise you have no idea which change improved or made things worse. So, which worked? cleaning with a dry rag? cleaning with a rag soaked in Isop? the Deoxit/Isop mix? or a combination of all three. I'm disapointed as after watching the video I still have no idea if the Deoxit is worth the money.

I tried again, purchasing the exact same parts listed in the video and still no result. Is there some hidden detail that is missing in the video?

Thank you very much for the information.

Larry, I have redrawn the pencil sketch (shown starting at 21:45 in this video and on your blog (both versions) in colour using Illustrator and saved as a pdf. If you want them to freely use and distribute please let me know... -Don

My takeaway from this is avoid using an ESU Loksound decoder. And before Loksound growls at Larry about my comment, he never said anything negative about ESU.

I found alcohol caused my track to be slippery on grades. I’ve used very thin layer of No-Ox-Id and have never experienced any loss of traction. I have 3% ruling grades on my layout. Typically run 12 car trains with both steam & diesel.

You could do the same thing using a Kadee #5 spring.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but couldn’t someone (when working with a device without dedicated programming terminals) use a DPST switch as well? I say this because I think it would work if the programming track was connected before the switch and the main line after. This way you can disconnect your main line, but keep the programming track connected?

I've just started thinking about building a small shelf HO layout in a spare bedroom / office, and doing so with DCC controlled motive power, and your videos are invaluable. * subscribed *

Larry - I’m trying to locate a place where I can purchase the powerpoints you used for building your lift out bridge. Well actually I ordered four from “LocoWorks”. I must have been asleep when I think I ordered from this company - in Great Britain because I can’t find the order. The company is in my credit card statement, but I can’t find the company on the Internet. Anyway, is there a local United States or Canadian place to order the powerpoints?

Golly, you guys must have (or used to) a lot more money than I do. 😊 I respect all you say; it is like a full-size construction project, and an expensive hobby could easily get a lot more expensive without good planning. I echo one person's comment about making it modular for disassembly and transport.

I spent an hour copying everything in this video and it did not work, tried a few more times just to make sure and still nothing. Racking my brain trying to work out where I went wrong, but I think I'll try another way somehow.

Try This! Corning 710 Telephone Gell Filled Button Splices they come in 2 or 3 wire Splices and no need to remove insulation as well! These cut through the insulation in 2 separate areas which is Filled with a silicone waterproof grease which ensures that you have a positive connection which is also importantly sealed by the internal grease to prevent any corrosion from occurring. These are designed for the actual Telephone companies and have been used for decades now In and Outdoors. The suitcase variants are okay I guess for some applications that are indoors only and environmentally controlled to prevent humidity and moisture in say a garage or damp basement? Where corrosion is possible for growing inside of a unsealed open connector. Plus the suitcase connector has only a single point of contact with the actual wires. Where the Corning version has 2 different contact points that cut through the wires insulation, which ensures that you have a strong and positive connection to your wires! Just FYI, I've been working with model railroads my entire life and use these for my HO and O Gauge Layouts! SMFH it beats having to skin each wire, and if stranded wire they'll have to be tinned with soldering in order to use properly in either connector suitcase or Corning. The time savings is amazing over having to skin, solder and then either seal with shrink wrap or tape. These will do everything necessary for just about every size Layout and I've never had one go bad yet In my 45 years now! My father was a lineman and installation specialist for Ma Bell Systems and we always had these special Splices laying around the house. Which he used for his HO layouts and I've used for both HO and O scale and never once had a problem with anything when it came to electrical supply issues. Hope this helps someone out there looking to begin building a layouts or just wanting to upgrade to a easy-to-use, fast, simple and permanent solution to get around having to solder all their connections. (which is of course the proper manner in which wiring should be done) These are the next best thing, in my personal opinion it's actually much better in fact! They come in 2 colors which represents the amount of wires that they can handle. The Clear/Orange buttons are for 2 wires and the Clear/Red buttons are for 3 wire connections. They're rated for 22-26Ga solid core wires, which is much more than adequate for O gauge let alone HO or N or Z, believe me, I wouldn't be recommending these, if I didn't know from first hand experience over a lifetime now. 😊 Happy Railroading Folks!

I like the look of the TCS system but those "special bundles" do not save you any money, they cost the same as if you bought they throttle and system separately. The uwt-100 costs $299, and the cs 105 is 529. The "bundle" they sell with them is $730, so no savings.

Thank you for all your helpful videos. Trying to catch up after putting HO MRR on the back burner more than 15 years ago.

Hi Garry, I am at the stage of purchasing a throttle. I am looking at Digitrax, Powercab, and Guagemaster. Do you have a video with all 3 in, and under the spotlight?

The original Marklin Digital system became the DCC standard (my old marklin decoders ((made by Lenz?))) work on DCC. Then Marklin changed their protocol. I started with marklin, switched to LENZ in 1993.

this is a big thanks from me, i am no expert on electrics but discovered this video via one of you books. i have been very frustrated by small steam locos stalling at some of my points i have now adapted my points using your method and i am sooo grateful, locos now run through all my points without stalling. thank you , thank you keith

also if you are installing a block you need to place the insulators in three locations or you will get reds when the detector is activated. the first one goes behind the switch the frogs are isolated the rail is not the first one goes here, the second one goes on the inside rail in the middle of the block that way it only shows your train when the block is occupied, and the third goes behind the switch on the other end of the block that way you have three sections. If you have double signals entering a siding YOU MUST INSILATE THE INSIDE RAILS LEADING INTO THE SWICHPOINTS! also every intermediate signal needs to be wired to the YIN jack on the signal control board. Intermediate signals only display Yellow and Green once a train is out of a previous block and Red when the block is occupied. If you have an industry in dark territory you must protect the main with a single light signal and have a selector plate to set this signal to Red to replicate electronic locks.

Chemestry lesson on ballast, glue, water. Yet never tells you the mix ratio of scenic cement. Arggg

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us. I greatly appreciate it!

Please describe the capacity or size of the other components used (the resistor and the 2 diodes) and where can all these be purchased? Thanks.

Watched the video on adding a TVS diode. I guess the polarity of the diode does not matter when it is soldered into the circuit because it is not mentioned (and comments were turned off for that video). I've used the Tortoise internal switches to control power to frogs for years (after cutting the frog area and insulating). One thing about older Tortoise (don't know if they changed the design) but back then I had to open the Tortoise and shave off some of the circuit board contact area because the internal switch would switch polarity much faster than the points and cause a short.

Larry. Thank you so much for this tutorial!

Hello I have a doubt how to install tcs KA4 on the ESU LOKSOUND 5 mini 58820 decoder you could teach me would be grateful

Thanks for posting. Very helpful technic. Just wish i knew the glue mix you use.

20 USD for one block sensor?

Time stamp 5.25 is not how computers send data. The wide pulse would be more than one high, and the low would be your zero or low pulse. It's timed, and the timing is synchronized with a start pulse. This is how serial transmission works, like RS 232 and USB, which came out of RS232. The reference line is in the wrong place as well. It should be on one of the rails, because what you are showing is an AC signal. For this to be a DC (DCC) the reference has to be high or low, not in the middle. It's also sent as packets, which means that more than one character / command, can be sent back to back without a timing pulse for each character, or in this case command sent. The computer samples the high or low in the middle of the high or low to see what it is. If the timing is off, then the signal message is corrupted. You need to know the start and how big the data message is to tell the binary message sent. It looks like the one you have as an example is 10101011 00101100 1100... This is assuming these are bytes, and we know the start of the massage is on the left.

Analog Multi train operation with Märklin is in some ways simpler.

Hello, a question I have is: How would I use this on Manual Throws where the polarity is controlled through Tam-Valley Frog Juicer boards. My turnouts are not motorized but wired appropriately Left / Right to Power Bus then Electro Frog goes to the Tam Valley Frog Juicer. How could I wire in these dwarfs into my manual turnouts system? I hope I am making sense? In other words I'm all wired up with polarity control. Just need dwarfs to work when I pull my manual throws.