The green tape is a good idea. I often put a number on it to tell me which sequence I removed it. Many times, if you forget, you'll end up with one you can't get access to after you installed other stuff that now gets in the way. So, the numbering keeps me straight. If I just installed number 9, I'll be looking for number 8's hose/fitting next. In your case, the number 1 hose would be the fuel shutoff vacuum hose.
Apologies for the errors in it. I missed on the missing drain lines on the carbs (since I didn't have any) and the vacuum line I had previously removed and didn't realize. I wanted to see how long it would take in essentially real time while shooting a video. Not a smart idea for a video, but I didn't see another one on here and figured the visual wouldn't hurt.
Great instructions, I don't have a manual yet, luckily I stumbled on this clip, Just got my SV650-2000 a few days ago. Trying to fix it before spring :)
I probably should have gone slower, but I figured it would be fun to time myself having not done it before, hah. Pandemic-induced stir craziness making me do weird things. Congratulations on the bike. Hopefully you're up and running soon!
@@matttriestodothings I had a DL650-04 for nine years ugly but sweet, sold it and bought a KTM1190-Adventure14, sold that and bought a DL1000, I still have the DL1000, but I sure miss that sweet 650 engine, that's the reason I bought this sv650, I sure long for the spring to arrive, we still have 50 cm of snow here.
@@rogereliasson8133 Right there with you man. There's a pile in my front yard that I know won't be gone until June because of how my front yard has areas that stay in the shade all day. I'm tinkering around on a few bikes and planning to synchronize my SV's carburetors today just to hear a motorcycle engine again. I just. can't. wait. until we can get back on the road! Which year DL1000 do you have? I have a 2018 650 V Strom and the bike is so damn big to me, hah. I love the goofy styling of it--which i know is quite polarizing. It's not the most fun bike, but it's a goddamn mule. I owe it some love since I've been ignoring it in favor of some other projects. I'd be curious to try out a 1000 v strom just to know how different the power is compared to a 650.
@@stylepoints973 good luck! A long screwdriver is really useful for the front choke cable. JIS screwdrivers work a hell of a lot better (less stripping) if you've got one available. Just take your time and take pictures if it's you're first time pulling the carburetor out. It's easy to delete pictures later if you don't need em. Can never have too many if you get stumped on reinstallation.
Good video. I prefer to take the bars off, remove the switches and controls to gain slack on the cables so I can just flop the carbs over on the bike and clean them or whatever without actually messing with the cables and needing to readjust.
Fair play. I've done that as well before. I usually struggle more with getting the control to snap back together, but it can definitely make some bikes a whole lot easier. Thanks Benson.
@@matttriestodothings your video was the only one out there. Now my bike is running great & Im back on the road ! Thank you for all your videos. Sincerely Lue
Helpful video, thanks. I don't know what you mean by "JIS" screwdrivers though - is this an American term, or a Japanese bikes term? (I've just got myself a SV650 but every other bike I've worked on has been old British, so very different - please excuse if this is a daft question!)
Not a daft question at all. I didn't know about the differences between Philips and JIS screws before I started wrenching on bikes. Philips screws have a bit of a rounding on them, and they're sort of intended to cam out when you tighten them so you don't overtighten them. Unfortunately, it makes it super easy to strip them if they start corroding or are too tight. JIS "Japanese Industrial Standard", I believe, are straight cut crosses. A JIS screwdriver has substantially more bite on a JIS (or Philips) screw. You will be far more likely to remove screws without rounding them. The #1 tool I think you can add to your toolkit if you're working on a Japanese (or any, really) motorcycle, is a #2 JIS screwdriver. I'd also recommend grabbing a #3. The Vessel JIS screwdriver available on Amazon is great. I give it as a gift quite often. There's several good videos on youtube that explain it. The below link is just one of them. Take a look, pick one up, and you'll never go back. Only problem is you'll want to replace every screwdriver you have. I haven't fully completed my own transformation yet, hah. czcams.com/video/gEwVUZr5xxQ/video.html
I should mention, JIS screwdrivers work perfectly fine on Phillips screws. You'll notice a JIS screw if there is a little dot stamped into the head. rtstools.com/jis-vs-phillips-screwdrivers-and-where-to-buy-a-jis-screwdriver/
JIS stands for Japanese Industry Standard. The cross tip is slightly fatter, and not as deep. Often when using a regular cross-tip screwdriver, it is so deep, the sides don't get enough bite to the sides and it tends to strip the screw head. I learned this a few years back and I never force a "Phillips head" screw until I use one of the JIS to double check a fit first.
@@matttriestodothings Matt, I beg to differ. JIS tips are not as deep as Phillips type heads. So, you don't get proper surface bite with a Phillips when it's a JIS head. People often strip the heads out trying to use the wrong application.
Hi.I have another problem...i didn't start my sv650 one year because battery go down...after one year i bought booster and i try to start it...but than become a problem...bike don't start and the fuel is leaking from a tank vent...quite a lot... I think all the fuel is passing carburetor and leaking out from the vent. has someone had the same problem? Tnx for the answers...cuss!
Like the actual lever on the left hand control is pushing back to neutral position? Or the choke plungers themselves in the carburetor are springing back? I'm not really sure--I'm pretty stumped trying to figure out the scenario. First thought would be that the choke cable might be routed incorrectly so it has unnecessary stress or force being applied on it. I've routed throttle cables and choke cables incorrectly before, and they do weird things and feel really tight if you do it.
@@matttriestodothings the choke lever itself springs back. I have to hold it until the bike warms up. I have to check the routing. I wasn’t sure if there was a spring adjustment on the first gens? Thank s!
@@eddiebee4551 So it turns out there may be a missing plastic piece that provides the friction to keep the choke held out. Check out this thread on svrider that seems to be explaining exactly your position. This has happened to multiple people (apparently). I had no idea. Hopefully this is helpful: www.svrider.com/threads/choke-lever-problem-wont-stay-open-springs-back.132360/
I've got the Clymer manual which I believe has both the first and second gen all crammed into one. At some point I'd like to pick up a paper copy of the actual Suzuki factory service manual though. Which manual are you working out of?
thanks for the vid. I've had my sv650 not running for more than 3 years. I removed the carbs and now Can't figure out how to adjust the throttle, it doesn't snap back. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I had a similar issue--I had to mess with the throttle adjustment on the right control near the throttle. I didn't have it free, so I had no snap-back from the throttle.
I do. I'm far from an expert on these 650 carbs though since I haven't had to do too much tinkering with them, but I can give it a shot or maybe point you in the right direction.
First gen 99-02 were carbureted. The pointy 03 and beyond went to fuel injection. I'm going through a bit of discovery now and am seeing this thing was taken pretty far from stock, so I need to keep all the settings the exact same way, so I'm not chasing problems. 152.5 mains (137 stock), different needle than stock with 2 shims, 17.5 pilots (15 stock), and a de-snorkled air filter. Air/fuel screws were 2.5 turns out (stock 3), and one was missing a washer. The bike ran really well, so someone probably knew what they were doing. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what it was. Couldn't find any info on the actual needle models on popular jet tune kits.
The green tape is a good idea. I often put a number on it to tell me which sequence I removed it. Many times, if you forget, you'll end up with one you can't get access to after you installed other stuff that now gets in the way. So, the numbering keeps me straight. If I just installed number 9, I'll be looking for number 8's hose/fitting next. In your case, the number 1 hose would be the fuel shutoff vacuum hose.
Hey man thanks for making this. Iam taking mine out in the morning
Apologies for the errors in it. I missed on the missing drain lines on the carbs (since I didn't have any) and the vacuum line I had previously removed and didn't realize. I wanted to see how long it would take in essentially real time while shooting a video. Not a smart idea for a video, but I didn't see another one on here and figured the visual wouldn't hurt.
@@matttriestodothings hey man I dont think mine has got got drain hoses. Its been stood for a year with manky petrol in it
Great instructions, I don't have a manual yet, luckily I stumbled on this clip, Just got my SV650-2000 a few days ago. Trying to fix it before spring :)
good luck man, they're great bikes!
I probably should have gone slower, but I figured it would be fun to time myself having not done it before, hah. Pandemic-induced stir craziness making me do weird things.
Congratulations on the bike. Hopefully you're up and running soon!
@@matttriestodothings I had a DL650-04 for nine years ugly but sweet, sold it and bought a KTM1190-Adventure14, sold that and bought a DL1000, I still have the DL1000, but I sure miss that sweet 650 engine, that's the reason I bought this sv650, I sure long for the spring to arrive, we still have 50 cm of snow here.
@@rogereliasson8133 Right there with you man. There's a pile in my front yard that I know won't be gone until June because of how my front yard has areas that stay in the shade all day. I'm tinkering around on a few bikes and planning to synchronize my SV's carburetors today just to hear a motorcycle engine again. I just. can't. wait. until we can get back on the road!
Which year DL1000 do you have? I have a 2018 650 V Strom and the bike is so damn big to me, hah. I love the goofy styling of it--which i know is quite polarizing. It's not the most fun bike, but it's a goddamn mule. I owe it some love since I've been ignoring it in favor of some other projects.
I'd be curious to try out a 1000 v strom just to know how different the power is compared to a 650.
Thanks for doing the video Matt.
No problem Vold. Hopefully it was useful.
Thanks a lot man. Got the carbs out in 20 minutes
Good damn deal. Guessing you filled in the pieces I missed 😅.
@@matttriestodothings to remove, yeah. Got em out easily. Just going to watch this backwards and get them back in. I’m ready to hear this thing run
Great video
Thanks Paul!
Great video! Thanks for the help haha
Thanks Chizo.
Thanks bro you kept it short an sweet
Short, sweet, and partially accurate!
@@matttriestodothings going to lift my tank now bro thanks again,will let you know how it turns out.
@@stylepoints973 good luck! A long screwdriver is really useful for the front choke cable. JIS screwdrivers work a hell of a lot better (less stripping) if you've got one available. Just take your time and take pictures if it's you're first time pulling the carburetor out. It's easy to delete pictures later if you don't need em. Can never have too many if you get stumped on reinstallation.
Good video.
I prefer to take the bars off, remove the switches and controls to gain slack on the cables so I can just flop the carbs over on the bike and clean them or whatever without actually messing with the cables and needing to readjust.
Fair play. I've done that as well before. I usually struggle more with getting the control to snap back together, but it can definitely make some bikes a whole lot easier.
Thanks Benson.
You ROCK! Thanks
hah, thanks Lue.
@@matttriestodothings your video was the only one out there. Now my bike is running great & Im back on the road ! Thank you for all your videos. Sincerely Lue
@@lue3720 hell yes, that's awesome! Happy for you and your two wheeled curvy partner in crime.
Helpful video, thanks. I don't know what you mean by "JIS" screwdrivers though - is this an American term, or a Japanese bikes term? (I've just got myself a SV650 but every other bike I've worked on has been old British, so very different - please excuse if this is a daft question!)
Not a daft question at all. I didn't know about the differences between Philips and JIS screws before I started wrenching on bikes. Philips screws have a bit of a rounding on them, and they're sort of intended to cam out when you tighten them so you don't overtighten them. Unfortunately, it makes it super easy to strip them if they start corroding or are too tight.
JIS "Japanese Industrial Standard", I believe, are straight cut crosses. A JIS screwdriver has substantially more bite on a JIS (or Philips) screw. You will be far more likely to remove screws without rounding them.
The #1 tool I think you can add to your toolkit if you're working on a Japanese (or any, really) motorcycle, is a #2 JIS screwdriver. I'd also recommend grabbing a #3. The Vessel JIS screwdriver available on Amazon is great. I give it as a gift quite often.
There's several good videos on youtube that explain it. The below link is just one of them. Take a look, pick one up, and you'll never go back. Only problem is you'll want to replace every screwdriver you have. I haven't fully completed my own transformation yet, hah.
czcams.com/video/gEwVUZr5xxQ/video.html
I should mention, JIS screwdrivers work perfectly fine on Phillips screws. You'll notice a JIS screw if there is a little dot stamped into the head.
rtstools.com/jis-vs-phillips-screwdrivers-and-where-to-buy-a-jis-screwdriver/
JIS stands for Japanese Industry Standard. The cross tip is slightly fatter, and not as deep. Often when using a regular cross-tip screwdriver, it is so deep, the sides don't get enough bite to the sides and it tends to strip the screw head. I learned this a few years back and I never force a "Phillips head" screw until I use one of the JIS to double check a fit first.
@@matttriestodothings Matt, I beg to differ. JIS tips are not as deep as Phillips type heads. So, you don't get proper surface bite with a Phillips when it's a JIS head. People often strip the heads out trying to use the wrong application.
@@SinnerSince1962 this is fair. I guess I've never tested it out or maybe I'm just mainly touching JIS screws these days. Good info.
Hi.I have another problem...i didn't start my sv650 one year because battery go down...after one year i bought booster and i try to start it...but than become a problem...bike don't start and the fuel is leaking from a tank vent...quite a lot...
I think all the fuel is passing carburetor and leaking out from the vent.
has someone had the same problem?
Tnx for the answers...cuss!
Great job! My choke lever springs back when applied. What could be causing that and how can it be fixed? Thoughts?
Like the actual lever on the left hand control is pushing back to neutral position? Or the choke plungers themselves in the carburetor are springing back?
I'm not really sure--I'm pretty stumped trying to figure out the scenario. First thought would be that the choke cable might be routed incorrectly so it has unnecessary stress or force being applied on it. I've routed throttle cables and choke cables incorrectly before, and they do weird things and feel really tight if you do it.
@@matttriestodothings the choke lever itself springs back. I have to hold it until the bike warms up. I have to check the routing. I wasn’t sure if there was a spring adjustment on the first gens? Thank s!
@@eddiebee4551 So it turns out there may be a missing plastic piece that provides the friction to keep the choke held out. Check out this thread on svrider that seems to be explaining exactly your position. This has happened to multiple people (apparently). I had no idea. Hopefully this is helpful: www.svrider.com/threads/choke-lever-problem-wont-stay-open-springs-back.132360/
@@matttriestodothings thanks so much!!
What is the manual you use. I got one but seem not to be the good one. Pic don’t match my 1st gen carb. 99-02 and I got sv650s 02. Can u help me out
I've got the Clymer manual which I believe has both the first and second gen all crammed into one. At some point I'd like to pick up a paper copy of the actual Suzuki factory service manual though. Which manual are you working out of?
thanks for the vid. I've had my sv650 not running for more than 3 years. I removed the carbs and now Can't figure out how to adjust the throttle, it doesn't snap back. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I had a similar issue--I had to mess with the throttle adjustment on the right control near the throttle. I didn't have it free, so I had no snap-back from the throttle.
Don't know if you sorted this, but search Tamsen Cooper. She has a video on this issue.
Hey do you still have this bike I just bought my first bike it’s a 2001 sv650s. Having issues with the carb wanted to ask a few questions.
I do. I'm far from an expert on these 650 carbs though since I haven't had to do too much tinkering with them, but I can give it a shot or maybe point you in the right direction.
Man I thought they were fuel injected
First gen 99-02 were carbureted. The pointy 03 and beyond went to fuel injection. I'm going through a bit of discovery now and am seeing this thing was taken pretty far from stock, so I need to keep all the settings the exact same way, so I'm not chasing problems. 152.5 mains (137 stock), different needle than stock with 2 shims, 17.5 pilots (15 stock), and a de-snorkled air filter. Air/fuel screws were 2.5 turns out (stock 3), and one was missing a washer.
The bike ran really well, so someone probably knew what they were doing. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what it was. Couldn't find any info on the actual needle models on popular jet tune kits.