Thanks for this video. I am sticking with Tillotson and going full speed having a spare built under my seat. You were spot on with flange warp, thread stripping, and body gap. I inherited all three issues. Currently running a hose clamp on the bowl section in addition to sanding.
Adam, Great video thank you. Do you have other videos on adjusting the carb prior to trying to start the engine? My model x carb goes on my 1929 AA Ford Truck. Thanks in advance. Les
I am an aircraft mechanic by training, and I am new to Model A’s. We use this product (EZ TURN / “FUELLUBE”) from Aircraft Spruce. I would use it on all the threaded components except the screws for the throttle plate, the choke plate, and the three fillister screws that hold the bowl together [where my personal preference is an extremely light coat of blue Loctite]. Additionally, on aircraft we have very good luck using Fuel Lube on the gaskets - it keeps them soft and pliable and creates a good seal with less torque.
You don't want to "glue" carb gaskets. Firstly, because any goop you slather on will inevitably find its way into drilled passages between pieces, possibly compromising flow. Secondly, eventually, you (or the next guy) will want to change that gasket. Any stuff that makes it stick will need scraping off. Scraping pot metal is iffy at best. If you want to make it sticky for assembly, either the aero goo the previous guy suggested, or plain vanilla white lithium grease will goo it on, but not plug stuff up, or force you to drag hard stuff on soft surfaces to clean it off next time.
Adam: A question: how critical is the 0.040" orifice in the jet at the bottom of the float bowl - the one that allows fuel to flow down to the main jets? I am asking because I was unsuccessful in removing the old jet - it broke off - and I also failed with an extractor to get it out. So - I resorted to drilling it out. I tapped the hole to 1/4-20 thread. I want to put a vented set screw in that tapped hole - with a 0.060" diameter hole in it. Seems to me that bigger is OK - the main jets coming afterward will do the actual metering of the fuel into the fuel/air mixture. What do you think?
There is more than just hole size to a jet. entrance into and out of the jet affect flow. I would get some brass allen head screws. Start around .040 and drill larger as necessary. Time yourself over a measured distance and redrill until it slows down. Then drill a new screw one size smaller and you're done. BTW, Holley carb jets are 1/4-32 if you wanted to use a Holley jet.
Thanks for this video. I am sticking with Tillotson and going full speed having a spare built under my seat.
You were spot on with flange warp, thread stripping, and body gap. I inherited all three issues. Currently running a hose clamp on the bowl section in addition to sanding.
Adam, Great video thank you. Do you have other videos on adjusting the carb prior to trying to start the engine? My model x carb goes on my 1929 AA Ford Truck. Thanks in advance. Les
Thank Adam: Great video. Very helpful. Melbourne Australia. (1930 Roadster)
Great Video The best I have seen on here. You can see all the steps.. Thanks
Awesome video. Just got a tillotson for model a & plan to rebuild it.
Thanks Adam!!!! Very helpful!!!
I just got one hoping for smoother running engine Great Video Super thanks for posting!
So much help . Thanks .
Thank you so much!!!
well done.
thankyou so much i'm a new-comer and that was fantastic. can't wait to see a future float adj video. warner voelpert shelton ct06484
Great work there.. What would be a reasonable price for one like yours refreshed in the shop. I've got a few that I could redo and sell.
Great video... can you do a video on how to adjust the float on that carb please?
Guess not.
great video thanks! I have the xf..can I put a small amount of gasket sealer to seal the 2 halves? any lube where all the jets go?
I am an aircraft mechanic by training, and I am new to Model A’s. We use this product (EZ TURN / “FUELLUBE”) from Aircraft Spruce. I would use it on all the threaded components except the screws for the throttle plate, the choke plate, and the three fillister screws that hold the bowl together [where my personal preference is an extremely light coat of blue Loctite]. Additionally, on aircraft we have very good luck using Fuel Lube on the gaskets - it keeps them soft and pliable and creates a good seal with less torque.
You don't want to "glue" carb gaskets. Firstly, because any goop you slather on will inevitably find its way into drilled passages between pieces, possibly compromising flow. Secondly, eventually, you (or the next guy) will want to change that gasket. Any stuff that makes it stick will need scraping off. Scraping pot metal is iffy at best. If you want to make it sticky for assembly, either the aero goo the previous guy suggested, or plain vanilla white lithium grease will goo it on, but not plug stuff up, or force you to drag hard stuff on soft surfaces to clean it off next time.
Adam: A question: how critical is the 0.040" orifice in the jet at the bottom of the float bowl - the one that allows fuel to flow down to the main jets? I am asking because I was unsuccessful in removing the old jet - it broke off - and I also failed with an extractor to get it out. So - I resorted to drilling it out. I tapped the hole to 1/4-20 thread. I want to put a vented set screw in that tapped hole - with a 0.060" diameter hole in it. Seems to me that bigger is OK - the main jets coming afterward will do the actual metering of the fuel into the fuel/air mixture. What do you think?
There is more than just hole size to a jet. entrance into and out of the jet affect flow. I would get some brass allen head screws. Start around .040 and drill larger as necessary. Time yourself over a measured distance and redrill until it slows down. Then drill a new screw one size smaller and you're done. BTW, Holley carb jets are 1/4-32 if you wanted to use a Holley jet.