3 Things NOT TO DO this Spring with your LAWN!
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- There are three things you should definitely NOT do with your lawn this spring. The first is you should not use a fast release nitrogen when fertilizing your grass this spring. I would recommend using a slow release fertilizer like Milorganite, Lesco, or The Andersons. Slow release fertilizer will help your lawn establish it's root system while also feeding on low amounts of fertilizer at a time.
The second mistake people makes with their lawns in the spring is not putting down their pre-emergent for crabgrass. I prefer using Prodiamine 65WDG because it is cost effective and you can getting better coverage when applying the pre-emergent with a backpack sprayer.
The last mistake is that many people hire an irrigation company to start up their irrigation system in the spring. I go over a step by step tutorial on how to start up your irrigation system in the spring.
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Disclaimer: Results may vary with location, weather, application rates, and applicator. Follow your local laws and application guidelines. Wear proper PPE.
LAWN LIFE assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
Due to factors beyond the control of LAWN LIFE, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, products or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not LAWN LIFE.
#lawncare #lawncaretips #lawntips #diylawn #reelmow #fertilizer #lawnlife #preemergent #springlawncare
I owned a small house with a small lawn. I had a hot spot that had much of the crab grass that would emerge in the spring. I would walk by the area and see the crab grass popping up. After plucking probably over 100 emerging crab grass blades, I was able to eliminate, with pre-emergent on the rest of the lawn, all of the crab grass. Get them in the one blade stage and it makes a world of difference!
If you blow out your own irrigation system in the late fall make sure you do a video on that. This was really helpful.
You should preface that these are cool season tips. We feed roots in Feb March and push hard from April thru October.
I haven't paid to start up my irrigation in 5 years since I found out the company I was using was charging me for new parts that weren't broken...easy to do yourself once you know how...great tutorial....you get yourself wet a couple of times before you figure out the orientation of everything lol
Definitely got sprayed hardcore the first time I did it 😂
Don’t you hate when they do that!
I have to skip the preemergent this yr. I had to do some overseeding. My lawn looked terrible because of snow mold. Too many large spaces. My extension officer suggested overseeding. I added mesotrione though at the time of seeding. Will deal with crab grass If I see them later during the year
I do starter fertilizer with Tenacity in it first thing in the Spring then again late May, early June. Works great. I want my root system to grow, don't need so much Nitrogen. Tenacity is really a great way to keep the crabgrass out or kill it and it won't prevent you from overseeding or fixing bald spots.
What starter fertilizer do you use?
@@sandramorgan3927 Scotts, it comes in a white and light blue bag.
I leave the valves on my PVB closed while I turn the water on. Sometimes the bonnet won't seat and the water runs out the top. Then I pop the inlet valve, then open the outlet valve slowly to prevent a water hammer.
when you open your water supply slowly, the back flow preventer might let slow moving water pass through - so you might end up with water outside where you closed the valves. It is wise practice to open slowly, but down be surprised if the backflow doesn't immediately close and discharges a some water before it closes under pressure.
I like your channel but you're a little off on the sprinkler start up. You should close the two valves on the vacuum breaker first. They weren't closed on yours, they were at a 45 degree angle. The reason for that is the ball inside the valve can actually trap water around it in the off position, freeze and burst.
Then turn on the water in the house, making sure it stops running. Then open the lower valve quickly to seat the plunger in the vacuum breaker (some water may come out) and finally slowly open the last valve and let the main line of the system fill up. This way you can check for leaks at each step. Then I'd run through each zone to make sure all the heads are working. I worked in irrigation for years.
But I agree, I wouldn't pay to have it done.
I'm only at 1 out of 3, not bad! Good suggestion on the sprinkler system.
1/3 is decent! Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!
Haha
Okay....so I have a question: I've watched several videos dealing with turning on an irrigation system (yours is by far the best, by the way). *First off, I'm on a well, so is the process different?* I can't find a vacuum breaker/backflow device setup like you (and many others) describe at :04. My system is 10 years old and all I ever do to turn the system on in the Spring is to slowly turn on the water in the basement....that's it. The company that installed my system winterizes it every Fall, and to the best of my knowledge, they only instructed me to turn the water on in the basement to start things in the Spring. From there, I test each of my 7 zones, like you describe. Could this vacuum breaker/backflow device be located somewhere else? In the ground, maybe? My way has worked just fine (except for when I first run each zone, there is sand in the lines that cause my well breaker to trip). I then reset it and resume testing my zones. The zones run great once the sand clears. Any tips/suggestions are appreciated!!
Hey Jessie how’s it going. I just met Andy today and his beautiful KBG. I told him I knew who you were on CZcams but I didn’t remember you being from MN. After going to your channel again I’m like aww yea I remember lol. Andy was not around when I stopped and I did a CZcams short, he had mentioned you were there yesterday. Sorry I missed ya. We are close we will have to hook later. As always just so you know I am a subscriber here. Talk to you soon Jessie
I just sent you a message on your channel before I saw this lol. Send me an email and we can exchange numbers!
SATURDAY APRIL 8th, 2023
When I was a freshman(2014-2015) in high school, my friend told me that throwing grass clippings in the trash can is considered a crime in some states.
Where you been my dude! Glad you’re back!!! 😊🙏🏾🤙🏾🙌🏾
Thanks bro! The lawn is finally waking up way up here in the north lol
If you put pre-emergent down in the spring then you can’t over-seed in the spring nor that fall a lot of times. Many pre emergents take awhile to exit the soil.
You can put down tenacity along with seed.
Preach! Great video and tips here, especially on #3!!
Thanks for watching man!
Good to see you back at it! Great tips👍
Another great video brother, I just uploaded my first quick cut and spray video on CZcams so excited 😊
Great Tips!!! Going to be ready to hit it hard this year.
I'm a groundskeeper at a hospital my coworker and I are going to start making tiktok lawn videos anyway we could get a free T shirt to shout you out? I'm a big fan of your videos your awesome.
Shoot me an email. lawnlifewithjesse@gmail.com
You put this out too late! I think I'm getting some melting out in the lawn which I read can be caused by using nitrogen fertilizer in the spring which I did. But the weather has also been nuts here in Ohio. Super wet, temps going from the 40-50s to the 80s now. I need to get on top of it. Any suggestions? I don't own a sprayer yet so I'm kind of limited to granular products or hose end type products. Thanks man!
Any rec for pre emergent for st Augustine in California ?
I never had an irrigation system.
What about starting up a rpz backflow? Is it similar?
We just bought a house. Grass has hella weeds everywhere. Been slowly hand weeding it out. It’s now 80 in Texas with 90s temp in the 10 day forecast. What do you recommend to apply to my lawn to start tackling the weeds and grow some healthy green grass? .25 acre home
I’d love your opinion…I have a very rough lawn with lots of weeds. I put down a pre-emergent a few weeks ago and am planning on treating my lawn with Tenacity. Do you recommend overseeding after treating at this point or should I just fertilize and try to promote growth from existing grass and wait until fall to overseed?
Meso is best used when you reseed. Don't let the seed germinate. Meso will hurt it. Please wait a month after putting pre emergent down before seeding
Great tips👍🏽
Thanks Jason!
Great tips on the pre-emergent. Got a follow and a like from me! Thank you!
Thanks Doug! Let me know if there's any subjects you're interested in!
Great video! How is the poa triv doing? I'm dealing with a ton this year unfortunately. Please do a video about Poa Triv!
I think I picked out 90% of the triv before it had the chance to spread. I found around 5 or 6 small plants this spring, but nothing big that I can see with my eyes. Email me and we can discuss what you can possibly do. lawnlifewithjesse@gmail.com
I have some ideas for you.
I couldn't imagine for the life of my wanting anything to do with lawns of that size, I mean that's just crazy, you can build another house on that swath of land.
Hello what kind of push mower is that
How many lbs of slow release nitrogen do you recommend??
Hey question! I saw your video on my recommendation! If I see weeds in my lawn already (February/early march) can I still put down Prodiamine? Also can I tackle the weeds separately to save my lawn? Thanks and I’m a new subscriber!
Yes. Prodiamine will mainly help stop crabgrass before it germinates. If you have weeds and they're growing you can definitely get rid of those at the same time
@@LAWNLIFE thanks man! Keep making that 🔥 content! Awesome work!
Hey I just discovered your vids.
Question: I’m thinking about soil tilling my front lawn. It’s about half an acre. There is a massive beautiful sugar maple tree right in the middle that prevents grass growth due to immense shade, so that area looks rather patchy.
Should I go for it or just try and lay top soil down and try to level it first.?
My lawn is super bumpy in areas due to voles, so that’s why I’m thinking I should rent a tiller and kind of start from scratch, but I know that’s a lot of work.
I’m doing it (mostly) by myself. I’m in central IL and have no idea what the pre-existing grass is.
What do you think I should do?
If I was you and you are seriously considering tillering it all up, I would wait until mid summer and take a Harley rake to it. Tillering will leave it just as bumpy if not worse after it settles. Then I would follow all of the steps I take in my renovation video. I hope this helps.
That is a lot of work and I will say that tilling often brings up tons of weed seeds that are buried beneath the surface. Yes weeds can be treated, but I would say top dressing/leveling with soil to fill low spots and seeding (along with using tenacity as a pre-emergent that's safe with seeding) is your best option. And in terms of the tree, it's likely a combination of the shade and the fact that maple trees are greedy SOB's. They steal so much moisture from the surrounding areas of grass. The area around my maple tree struggles by late summer every single year.
Dude, if you can afford an irrigation system, you should be able to damn well afford to pay somebody to turn it on properly. IMHO
I had a soil test and i am low on phosphorus. How should I fix this? I am in SC and have Bermuda grass.
Lookup some 0-46-0 fertilizer and see if you can find it locally to avoid shipping. Otherwise any fertilizer with a higher second number will add phosphorus along with nitrogen will do the trick.
@@LAWNLIFE thanks. Just a little afraid of adding nitrogen right now
I live in Ham Lake Minnesota what date should I apply spring fertilizer (I use menards premium 1st app)
50 degree 2inch depth soil temp
In your first video you are using straight urea(fast release nitrogen) and in this video you say not to use a fast release nitrogen. Can you explain the difference?
This difference is that I'm spoon feeding the urea onto my lawn. I should've explained this but it would've gone very deep into the weeds. Spoon feeding is giving the grass very small amounts of fast release nitrogen (almost like slow release does. It gives it a little a time).
So by spoon feeding I'm basically doing the same thing as feeding it slow release, but I know exactly how much I'm feeding it, when I'm feeding it, and how long it will last. It's a more advanced strategy but the same basic concept. A little bit of nitrogen at a time instead of one big push. I'm trying to steer people away from that huge push of nitrogen in the spring.
This video is more dedicated towards beginners. I should've been more clear. Sorry about that. Let me know if you want me to explain this more.
Great video! Glad you’re showing how cost effective Urea is instead of pushing liquid fertilizer.
Respectfully, this is categorically incorrect. You lawn will only grow with what nutrients are available, the moisture content in the soil and temperatures of the soil. Fertilizing in the spring is important. “Slow release” fertilizer is nothing more than a fertilizer that is coated with a poly type material that resists releasing the available nutrients until enough moisture has dissolved the coating. If the only thing you did was spread it on the lawn and let Mother Nature take care of this process, it will naturally take longer to release the nutrients. The issue with this is that your lawn could be calling for more nutrients but doesn’t have enough at the time because it’s so dry out. If you have irrigation, you have only delayed the process by a couple of weeks at best (pending on your watering schedule).
Furthermore, cool season grasses growing seasons are in the spring and fall. You need to take advantage of this and the cooler temperatures in the soil to prepare for summer when it’s potentially hot and dry. Especially if you don’t have access to water. It is also during this time that your roots develop. This natural stress on your lawn forces the roots deeper in the soil chasing available moisture. It is also why you water heavily in the spring and recharge your moisture content lower in your soils. If you don’t have available P and K because you applied a slow release, what good did you do?
The cation exchange is a very real process and you need to adjust to your soil type, organic matter and available moisture.
Please, do not recommend this as things that you should not do
You don't want to push top growth in early spring because of summer heat stress? no, you don't want to push top growth going into summer, early spring by all means push with heavy fertilizer (which will push top growth and root growth and overall health of the grass plant)
I don't understand why people thing nitrogen only pushes top growth, it pushes all growth, (root growth as well) and if your got some KBG that you want to spread, then you for sure want to push nitrogen in early spring.
So, milorganite is slow release, i went heavy in the fall with 46-0-0 urea, do u suggest milorganite for a spring app?
Yeah, milorganite or anything else that is slow release. I'd stay away from the 46-0-0 unless you're planning on spoon feeding it.
@@LAWNLIFE thanks so much
First Aussie 😁
Bout time! 😂
What if you cut 4 times a week.. not much top growth then 😂
I'm. First
Pretty sure established grass already has an established root system…
50 -60. My sob charges 125
why the hell would I put anything on my lawn that requires me to wear a filter on a mask? too many chemicals is not good for soil health
Who said anything about mask?
The stuff the lawn needs to grow isnt good for humans to breath. No need to overload your brain
You don’t need a mask. He does it as an extra safety precaution but it’s completely not needed. You could also apply it as a granular too which requires less PPE
If you’ve ever applied fertilizer to your lawn you should have work a mask
Something people need to start doing more is making native meadows in their lawns instead of just having clean cut grass. You’re completely eliminating a natural eco system of beneficial insects and animals with having all lawn. Plus lawns isn’t good for the climate. Start with 25 percent of your lawn.
Than there would be too many bugs 🤦🏽♂️ quit bitchin about how we should put weeds in our yard and YOU do it.