How to wire up custom LED reverse lighting on your truck or SUV with a 7 pin trailer plug, without drilling the frame or cutting into the wiring harness.
This is about what I was looking to do. I just hope it doesn't trick my truck into thinking it has a trailer connected. Some of the new ones with built in trailer brake controls seem to be finicky. I don't think mine will be since it's not THAT new. Nice video. I was initially going to mount mine on a step that can slide into my hitch. I found one on Amazon that's about about 2.7" square tube and mount them to that. If you search for "Eapele Hitch Step" you should see it, looks like a 'T' that slides into your receiver and has the added benefit of giving you a nice step up if you aren't young and spry, lol. I may still do that, but I think now I'm going to look under my truck and see if my factory hitch is similar to this one with round tubing I can use muffler clamps on. Thanks for the inspiration.
@@modsquad8u only the reverse pin power is hooked up, so chances are the truck won’t know it’s there unless you’re backing up. I’m guessing the truck would only read the brake pin to activate the brake controller, can’t imagine they’d use just a ground connection, let us know if it does, would be interested to know.
So far after a few years they've survived, although I'm not too hard on the truck. Thanks for watching, a new project is coming and it's going to be big, stay tuned.
I just unplug the reverse lights when I have a trailer on, the light would just be blocked by the trailer in most cases anyway. But when I’m backing up to a trailer at night I leave it on to get under the ball easier and then plug the trailer in. I’m sure you could add reverse lighting to a trailer if you wanted to run it.
Would it be to much if I connected the lights to the 7 rv blade the way you did. And also connecting a tail/brake light towing hitch receiver. On the 4 wire flat plug
I was thinking about building a trailer hitch step with two reverse lights and one brake light by welding some square tubing in a “T” and then drilling holes for pop in led lights. The reverse only turns on when in reverse if you use the right hitch pins.
Yes you can. You would want a 3 position rocker switch (on/off/on) that is weatherproof. Wire the first on position to the reverse lead from the trailer pin, and the second on position to the normal running lights on lead from the trailer pin. The reason I would do this is so you still don't cut into your trucks wiring but also the three position switch will keep you from shorting a fuse. The switch off position is in between the two on positions, so you can switch it on for working out in the yard, then off for no lights at all, then on to the other side for reverse only function. That's a good idea. Just stay with the LED pods, since some of the bigger light bars need their own fuse due to the higher draw. You don't want to pop your taillight fuse when you're miles from home.
I just bought a cheap four pack on amazon, they weren’t truly waterproof and I got some condensation in them during the summer at the boat launch, but for the price I can live with that. I’m not sure a high end brand isn’t made in China these days anyway. Building a crazy truck starting this winter, getting back to posting some projects after a long renovation this year. Tune in.
There’s a good chance that the fuse for your rear lights is 15amp, but it’s easy to find in your vehicle to be sure. A couple 2-4amp LED lamps should be no problem for it. You can even change out your stock reverse lamps in the tail lights to LEDs and decrease your total draw even more if you need the piece of mind. Don’t put a larger fuse in the space though, it’s to protect the vehicle’s wire more than the light bulbs. It’s unlikely you will pop a fuse with these LED pods, if it was halogen or an old incandescent style then maybe. Also, some lights are more water proof than others, so if you’re backing into deep water for some reason, don’t forget to unplug, it might not hurt the LED itself, but might short the fuse, just a good habit. It’s also possible to use the running light pin on the trailer plug, and have a switched light for working at night. A switch does need another joint in the wire and so may cause reliability issues over time, but it’s not a big deal.
Yes, if you wire your lights in series you can have four, but you have to make sure you don’t draw too much power and blow your fuse. So make sure you don’t go too crazy with the size of the lights.
You forgot/neglected to install the spade connector to the wire in order to properly connect it to the 7-pin trailer connector. That is the most common failure point of those plugs, especially the cheaper style that you’ve used. Otherwise a pretty good install. (even with the improper soldering)
Wrapping the wire around the screw and clamping it between the brass plates is equivalent if not better than crimping an additional failure prone blade to the end of the wire and then clamping that into the plug screw, clamped is clamped. We definitely could have used a bigger soldering iron to draw the solder in but solder isn’t required, most trailers are put together with cheap blade clips or shrink/crush connections. This was beyond overkill and will outlast the light pods. Thanks for watching, we have some cool stuff coming this winter.
@@BuilditUniversitycom yea that is true so you have that big plug sticking out with the wire lights facing outward? and does your truck think a trailer is hooked up?
Thomas Herman this is a mod for functionality, the idea is not to cut any wires on the factory harness. The same mod can be done by cutting the harness but it will likely corrode the wires over time and you would have to wire in a waterproof switch to turn it off when you are pulling a trailer. When I don’t want to use the lights at all, I can tuck the plug up behind the bumper. Cutting the wire wasn’t a long term solution for this project.
THIS VIDEO IS AWESOME, EXACTLY WHAT I HAVE BEEN WONDERING ABOUT. I was going to ask the same question as down below, But your answer is confusing to me in writing.. im a visual learner, are you able to make a video on it? lol sorry.. i just dont understand.
Keith Valence I didn’t need a switch for this application, but a switch put in line with the power wire would be easy to install, but it might wear out over time if you back your truck into the boat ramp often.
This is about what I was looking to do. I just hope it doesn't trick my truck into thinking it has a trailer connected. Some of the new ones with built in trailer brake controls seem to be finicky. I don't think mine will be since it's not THAT new. Nice video.
I was initially going to mount mine on a step that can slide into my hitch. I found one on Amazon that's about about 2.7" square tube and mount them to that. If you search for "Eapele Hitch Step" you should see it, looks like a 'T' that slides into your receiver and has the added benefit of giving you a nice step up if you aren't young and spry, lol. I may still do that, but I think now I'm going to look under my truck and see if my factory hitch is similar to this one with round tubing I can use muffler clamps on.
Thanks for the inspiration.
@@modsquad8u only the reverse pin power is hooked up, so chances are the truck won’t know it’s there unless you’re backing up. I’m guessing the truck would only read the brake pin to activate the brake controller, can’t imagine they’d use just a ground connection, let us know if it does, would be interested to know.
Props on how to mount the lights.
@@wowcantbelieveit2780 thanks, just didn’t want to create new holes, trucks rust fast enough as it is.
Very nice.
A big plus is when you have a trailer hitched the auxiliary lights don't come on, blinding you when they reflect off the trailer.👍
Very nice . Clean and simple. Nice job
Glad you like it, my upcoming project is going to be crazy, working on the CAD files now, coming soon.
Wow nice ! I like the location too, they don't look eyesore there. Hopefully they wont suffer dragging in snow or mud. I like it.
So far after a few years they've survived, although I'm not too hard on the truck. Thanks for watching, a new project is coming and it's going to be big, stay tuned.
Outstanding work
Thanks, still trying to find my format, but I’ve got a ton of footage to edit once I figure out the direction.
'No drill'. Tools required to do the job. 'You'll need a drill.........'
No new drill holes into the truck.
🤣🤣🤣 Love it.
Great Tips, Good Stuff 👍 Thanks! I bought my truck last year with reverse led cubes but not sure how wire. the 7pin unusable for trailer uses?
I just unplug the reverse lights when I have a trailer on, the light would just be blocked by the trailer in most cases anyway. But when I’m backing up to a trailer at night I leave it on to get under the ball easier and then plug the trailer in. I’m sure you could add reverse lighting to a trailer if you wanted to run it.
Would it be to much if I connected the lights to the 7 rv blade the way you did. And also connecting a tail/brake light towing hitch receiver. On the 4 wire flat plug
When you connect it. Do they stay on all the time or do they turn on only when you back up
I was thinking about building a trailer hitch step with two reverse lights and one brake light by welding some square tubing in a “T” and then drilling holes for pop in led lights. The reverse only turns on when in reverse if you use the right hitch pins.
Could you add an auxiliary switch to leave the lights on independent from reverse?
Yes you can. You would want a 3 position rocker switch (on/off/on) that is weatherproof. Wire the first on position to the reverse lead from the trailer pin, and the second on position to the normal running lights on lead from the trailer pin. The reason I would do this is so you still don't cut into your trucks wiring but also the three position switch will keep you from shorting a fuse. The switch off position is in between the two on positions, so you can switch it on for working out in the yard, then off for no lights at all, then on to the other side for reverse only function. That's a good idea. Just stay with the LED pods, since some of the bigger light bars need their own fuse due to the higher draw. You don't want to pop your taillight fuse when you're miles from home.
You could wire the 3 position switch to the reverse and to the 12 volt auxiliary power wire in the 7 way plug.
adam whi
Great video What brand pod lite did you install?
I just bought a cheap four pack on amazon, they weren’t truly waterproof and I got some condensation in them during the summer at the boat launch, but for the price I can live with that. I’m not sure a high end brand isn’t made in China these days anyway. Building a crazy truck starting this winter, getting back to posting some projects after a long renovation this year. Tune in.
any idea how many watts these 2 lights were rated at? im looking at a single one that is 36W 2.4 amp
There’s a good chance that the fuse for your rear lights is 15amp, but it’s easy to find in your vehicle to be sure. A couple 2-4amp LED lamps should be no problem for it. You can even change out your stock reverse lamps in the tail lights to LEDs and decrease your total draw even more if you need the piece of mind. Don’t put a larger fuse in the space though, it’s to protect the vehicle’s wire more than the light bulbs. It’s unlikely you will pop a fuse with these LED pods, if it was halogen or an old incandescent style then maybe. Also, some lights are more water proof than others, so if you’re backing into deep water for some reason, don’t forget to unplug, it might not hurt the LED itself, but might short the fuse, just a good habit. It’s also possible to use the running light pin on the trailer plug, and have a switched light for working at night. A switch does need another joint in the wire and so may cause reliability issues over time, but it’s not a big deal.
Were going to be putting a ladder rack on my f250 coming up, it’s going to have work lighting and a tool box light installed, keep watching.
What kind or brand of off road lights did you use?
Just some off the shelf pods like blazer, Amazon has a bunch for cheap.
Will I be able to connect 4 the same way ?
Yes, if you wire your lights in series you can have four, but you have to make sure you don’t draw too much power and blow your fuse. So make sure you don’t go too crazy with the size of the lights.
Thank you
You forgot/neglected to install the spade connector to the wire in order to properly connect it to the 7-pin trailer connector. That is the most common failure point of those plugs, especially the cheaper style that you’ve used.
Otherwise a pretty good install. (even with the improper soldering)
Wrapping the wire around the screw and clamping it between the brass plates is equivalent if not better than crimping an additional failure prone blade to the end of the wire and then clamping that into the plug screw, clamped is clamped. We definitely could have used a bigger soldering iron to draw the solder in but solder isn’t required, most trailers are put together with cheap blade clips or shrink/crush connections. This was beyond overkill and will outlast the light pods. Thanks for watching, we have some cool stuff coming this winter.
the picture of where you plug that into would have been nice.
Adam M I was hoping viewers would recognize the plug I was working with as a 7 pin hitch plug. It plugs into the bumper hitch plug.
@@BuilditUniversitycom yea that is true so you have that big plug sticking out with the wire lights facing outward? and does your truck think a trailer is hooked up?
Thomas Herman this is a mod for functionality, the idea is not to cut any wires on the factory harness. The same mod can be done by cutting the harness but it will likely corrode the wires over time and you would have to wire in a waterproof switch to turn it off when you are pulling a trailer. When I don’t want to use the lights at all, I can tuck the plug up behind the bumper. Cutting the wire wasn’t a long term solution for this project.
THIS VIDEO IS AWESOME, EXACTLY WHAT I HAVE BEEN WONDERING ABOUT. I was going to ask the same question as down below, But your answer is confusing to me in writing.. im a visual learner, are you able to make a video on it? lol sorry.. i just dont understand.
Keith Valence I didn’t need a switch for this application, but a switch put in line with the power wire would be easy to install, but it might wear out over time if you back your truck into the boat ramp often.
what size exhaust clamps did you use?
It’s been so long, You would want to measure to be sure.
3" is what was used.
Cleaver / awesome
stay tuned, I have something new coming out, if you like truck projects, this one is going to be a big one.
Going to harbor freight get 7pin tester before i need it.
Hit the notifications if you haven't already, I've been working on something new and it is all about trucks.
for me was not good video
Does your truck have a different plug on the bumper where you live?
Why?
Why cuz youd get caught jumping the border