Timing Chain and Oil Pump Replacement - BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Project Part 5
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- čas přidán 19. 03. 2021
- Timing Locking Tool Kit: amzn.to/3vKtmX5
Timing Chain: amzn.to/39gwGzZ
Side Guide Rail: amzn.to/311XejU
Upper Guide: amzn.to/3cLFOxg
Tensioner: amzn.to/38YDkus
Timing chain replacement is one of the bigger jobs on a BMW N54 and BMW N55 engines. I tackle this job with the N55 engine out, but you can just as easily do the same work with the engine still in the car. I'm also replacing the oil pump and the oil pump chain just to be safe and of course installing all new bolts. I replaced the timing chain twice on this car as after installing it the first time, I realized that installing old timing chain guides and chain was a bad idea. I ordered new parts and installed those right after. The second time around, it went much faster. You will also need a timing chain tool kit to time the engine before and after removing any big bolts. I also show how to remove the main crankshaft bolt and central bolts. The process is very similar on many other BMW engines such as the BMW N51, BMW N52 and BMW N54.
BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Tools: amzn.to/3uHUwh5
N55 Parts: amzn.to/37W6GsS
BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Project:
Part 1: • I Bought A Broken BMW ...
Part 2: • Piston, Crankshaft and...
Part 3: • BMW Rod Bearing Replac...
Part 4: • Cylinder Head Gasket R...
Part 5: • Timing Chain and Oil P...
Part 6: • Valve Cover Gasket & O...
Part 7: • BMW N55 Injector Insta...
Part 8: • Front Crankshaft Seal ...
Part 9: • Engine Install and Ass...
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Thanks for watching!
Hope you guys enjoy the video or at least find it interesting or useful!
It took hours to put together, so hit that LIKE button to make it all worth it.
BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Project Playlist: czcams.com/play/PLfGJyGAcNr7-J2rSmmcNcQIT0QIvi2jCL.html
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You deserve way more recognition. You put so much effort into these videos.
Thanks, I try! Hopefully it’ll help someone rebuild an engine in the future!
I've learned so much with this rebuild project and I don't even drive an n55 engine. Very cool to see the steps it would take to do it right! Love the channel.
A totally underrated channel! Keep up th great work and videos!
Appreciate it! Many more videos in the works. Stay tuned!
I just timed my n55 using this same kit. When I took it all off to rotate and I check it, I thought it was making a weird clicking/clunking noise and thought something was wrong too!! Also managed to strip the thread on old chain tensioner. Glad I got a new one
I have the clicking/clunking noise also after timing. Was your engine all good after this?
Excellent video! Not very much info out there on replacing the timing chain on an n55. Mostly only in n20 videos. Keep it up!
Excelente serie de videos. Gracias por las aportaciones. Un consejo, utiliza tu cuerpo para apretar tornillos, empuja el maneral hacía abajo. Regards
Great work
Excellent video!! Appreciate it.
that was great man
great video as always. would be fun if the engine goes back in but mates to a manual transmission this time around.
That would be really fun, but unfortunately the car it’s going in is an automatic. Luckily, I got a BMW Z4 that’s a manual, so I don’t go out of practice!
I made it halfway watching your video I could say that was really amazing what you have done when you was doing this did you happen to also replace your pistons or anything else like that so then with all that work that you've done to it you can probably put a brand new engine in there I enjoyed your video if I haven't mentioned it
Awesome videos man! I’m going to be trying to rebuild ke N55 engine (first time ever building an engine)
Do you have a master list of the bolts you replaced instead of reused? Also the gaskets and other stuff to get it done?
Thank you
This video is missing so many steps if you do it like this you will have problems. He never installed the crankshaft alignment pin for TDC, he also never installed the flywheel/ flex plate holding tool to brake the crank bolt loose and to tighten it big no no I hope his method on that works it might. The sad thing is the crank alignment pin is in the kit he just doesn’t use it
Who cares about the timing.
@@dansmith728 absolutely right timing is not important at all lol
Nice! Can't wait till you drop it back into the car and start it up
I hope it works at the end!!
@@SimpleCarGuy it will! You've done a lot of work, and did it right. Followed directions and even changed out a couple things that didn't need to be. If it doesn't start, run down your wiring harness and make sure everything is where it needs to be plugged in. I switched my pre and post O2's. Couldn't figure it out to save my life. It took my woman asking why i didn't have them set the same way to realize where my mistake was
@@markmahurin8891 thanks man! Should be a fun day getting her to run and wired up and I'm not even being facetious! I did the O2 sensor switch like that when I swapped the engine on my Z4, but it showed up as a code when I scanned the car.
thank you for this!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Hi, Thank you very much your project had save my life. but question. I am replacing my oil pump timming chain and since I am there my timing chain. But I forgot to mark the oil pump position (not sure if thats needed?)but does the oil pump or sprockets have to be in a certain position when putting everything back together? for instance the camshafts and crankshaft are at TDC with the locking tools an all that but what about the oil pump and vacumm pump ?
thank you once again
👌🏻👌🏻awli bud excellent 👍
These instructions are great but can you help with what happens when you rotate the engine and the timing is not on and what steps to do next. My red bar sits up and 1/2" on the exhaust side after 2 rotations but stays that way no matter how many turns and we've tried adjusting the crank and still does it.
Very appreciated information, i am replacing the timing chain on the X5 N55 engine. Do you know if if the oil pump chain is not going to move after the cup is removed. Please advise
I would’ve probably created three or four videos outlining the entire process in a methodical and organized wayWhile providing a full description of everything you’re doing including tools. Did I say production production production! I’m not seeing your videos are bad, on the contrary I like watching them and appreciate them very much. I just think there is a lot of potential here to up your game and grow the channel. Either way, and whatever you decide to do I’ll still be subscribed. Thanks again
Thinking about this more, I do have about 90 minutes of footage for the timing chain and oil pump... maybe I should do a more detailed version for those that want to see each bolt spec and torque etc!
Thanks for watching!
I can't believe you had to do that twice. You must have so much patience.
Once you have everything apart it's pretty quick. Didn't take me more than an hour to do. Thanks for watching!
Really good channel. Thanks alot. Really helps me out w my n54 rebuild I'm doing r.n.. n55 is basically the same as an n54 in timing (by the looks of it) You got those parts off Amazon? How's it holding up? Seems a bit sketchy buying stuff not from ecs or fcp euro for this kind of stuff 🤔
Hey when you torqued down the center hub crankshaft bolt .. Did you use a 3/8 torque wrench or a 1/2 torque wrench?
Hi, did my oil chain and timming chain and when I spin the engine it does not complete the full revolution . I am using the timming tool and try retimming the engine like 4 times already any tips ? stealership is not an option
Hello, the phase shifter, camshaft pulley do not need to be shimmed? just put with the guide tool and install is that it?
Is there allowed ro be any play from the black part of the chain guide? Mine can move fore and aft quite a bit.
How would I put cylinder 1 to TDC?
Hey man I have a question so I’m timing my motor but the exhaust vanos keeps going out of time I marked crank hub and intake and exhaust vanos and intake and crank stay in time but exhaust doesn’t I also marked the gear in vanos exhaust behind phaser and that stays aligned with the cam shaft exhaust side so my question is what can cause the exhaust vanos to go out of time when crank is in time with intake? Meaning flywheel and crank and intake are all aligned just not the exhaust vanos and shaft? Also I should note that I did replace timing guides and crank hub as well as vanos solenoids I keep getting camshaft exhaust angle deviation outside tolerance and they do lock when car is off btw
N55 is similar to N52? also where can i buy teflon rectangrings?
Is there no o-ring or seal between the block and pump?
what’s the right tool that’s needed to hold the flywheel from spinning while torquing the main bolt?
what about the camshaft adjusters dont they have to go in at specific way or position??
I have a question. What happens if you don't torque the crankshaft bolt all the way to 270 degrees? Timing issue or low oil pressure issue? I rebuilt the same engine now I have a low oil pressure issue. The car runs fine but I get the low oil pressure warning light every trip I make.
I really liked the video as I have a similar vehicle as I’ve mentioned before. That vehicle is a BMW 550I 20113 GT with XDrive. I currently have 64,600 km on the vehicle and I would like to take a look at my timing chain and guides at some point just to make sure that everything is OK. With that being said if I could suggest a little better organization for the video portion and maybe using a couple of different cameras to capture the entire process from beginning to end without leaving out anything. I subscribe to a lot of different curators and what makes the larger CZcamsrs say over 1 million is the production and creation of the video as well as the knowledge, explanation of the work and complete details of tools used and required. You can still work out of your personal garage but if I could suggest possibly looking at what you want to do with your channel and deciding whether or not you want to really up your game and if so follow the above steps. Hope this helps I will continue to watch your videos.
Appreciate the constructive feedback and I definitely see where you are coming from! I will take some notes and work on improving the videos in the future.
One of the problems I have with using 2-3 cameras and explaining everything as I'm doing it is that it takes 2-3 times longer to do the work and then it will take about twice as long to edit etc. I do these projects for myself and film for fun and to capture my adventures with the cars over the years. Some of my other more instructional videos do include overview of the tools and the specifics of doing the job, but then like you mentioned a video like this would be at least 40 minutes or would have to be split up into many other videos. I look at these as more of an overview of what you have to do to achieve the same results. I tend to look for videos like that myself as I can find the specific steps in a workshop manual, but would like to see the full job done in a 15 minute video.
Once again, really appreciate your feedback and thanks for watching! I will continue to improve production value as I learn. I've also gotten a new wireless mic on the way, so quality of the audio should go up as well!
Is there a way to replace the chain without taking out the engine on same engine but on F10?
Completely 👌❤❤💪
How much did it cost in parts. Can you post a list please
Does the oil pump sprocket bolt need threadlocker?
How do you know when to replace timing chain?
I am in the middle of exactly what u are doing in this video.
Because there is no oil pressure, the vanos will jump / hop when u handle crank. I see that u found out it is normal. Thanks for the info.
My other issue is that after turning the crankshaft 2-3 times, the intake camshaft got retarded (or advanced) 5-10 degrees. For some reason, the spring inside the vanos does not push the camshaft back to its resting postion. I removed all valvetronic and checked the camshaft is not binding. Now, with valvetronic out, camshaft follows the vanos but when I hand turn (27mm wrench in the middle) the cam, it does not bounced back. This is frustrating. I will take apart the vanos to see what is inside.
Is the oil pressure working against the spring? Or, when solenoid is off, the oil pressure will HELP the spring too?
As always, u make good videos. Thanks for doing this video. Without it, I would not have started taking apart my N55.
Hi. Total tightening torque 270 Nm? Thanks.
Same exact method for the n54 correct?
the vanos cam gear when installed have a specific position that must be put?
Vanos cam gear should not be affected during this job at all.
Hello, quick question. Im just looking to replace the large cam shaft adjuster bolts. Do i still a timing tool to timing the engine after replacing??
To do it correctly, yes. When you take the bolt off, timing will shift and you’ll need to adjust it before torquing it down
Hello :) great video!! My only question is how did you keep the crankshaft from turning when you were removing the crankshaft bolt?
Hi! I had it locked on the other side with tool (basically small screwdriver or allen wrench should work) that goes through the block and into the pressure plate. It should come with your timing chain kit.
how you tightening 0.6 nm with bigest dynamo wrench ?
He said 0.06 nm. I think he meant 0.6nm. Just finger tight.
By mistake I loose the center screw i pulled the damper puller complete I hear something fall do you think something fall down o the timing get lost? Tank you for your help
Replied on another video to this same question.
I’m working on my 2013 535i right now with the timing chain, was there a place where you got the torque specs from? I can’t find any online and I’m not that accustomed to following along with the video.
There used to be a website newtis that had all the values, but otherwise its from ISTA/INPA
Did I miss something, or is there a timing mark on the crank to ensure you’re at TDC? You cant just go by the visual on the crank position from the bottom.. right?
There is a locking pin that goes into the flywheel
What is the tool to stop the crank shaft from spinning when you have to put the main bolt in?
They sell a couple of tools, but if I remember correctly, I used a locking pin on the flywheel. Something like this: amzn.to/3DoAxto
Central bolt on pretensioner 20nm???
How's it going my name is Pete and I'm doing a timing chain replacement on a BMW 328i E90. I would like to know is it best to take the whole engine out or can I leave the engine it still inside and and what are all the parts I'm going to be needing to do this job please respond to this fast I would greatly appreciate it thank you
Hi Pete, you can leave the engine in and replace the timing chain. I did it on my Z4 (there is a video, so that should give you an idea of what to expect). You’ll have to research the parts yourself as your car has a different engine to the one I have in the video.
How do you know All bolt torques ? Does BMW sell a book showing all torques!
They sell manuals or you can use BMW dealer software that you can find on the internet.
I have a big turbo e70 n55 with 600hp died on me on the highway after destroying a scatpack on a 60 roll. The exhaust cam seems fine but the intake cam has the barcode facing almost down when at TDC. I don't understand how this happened. The timing chain is tight. The tensioner is new. The cam ajuster locking tool still fits?
Ouch! Sounds like the bolt on the intake camshaft adjust came loose. Assuming you have changed the timing chain the past, did you change the bolt at the same time? Those are stretch to yield and cannot be reused. That's the only thing I can think of as the locking tool would not fit otherwise at TDC.
@SimpleCarGuy bolts were not touched before. The bolt was extremely tight when I took it off yesterday. The culprit was the cam ajuster. This is gonna be hard to explain without seeing the pictures but the ring part of the cam ajuster that slips into the camshaft broke and the inner ring crushed. So It looks like when I hit WOT the cam ajuster slipped and moved on its own without the camshaft moving. I changed the cam ajuster and retimed the engine and she started up again. And I did use new bolts .🔩
Hi there, great video. I don't have the engine out of the car. When do I take the plastic pin and replace it with the one that came with the tuning tool? Is it necessary to take the manifold off to place this pin?
I'm not sure which I understand which plastic pin you are talking about. Removing the manifold should be necessary to do this job with the engine in the car.
How does one hold the Crank# to torque it whilst engine is in the car, using the flywheel timing pin tool????
@@Mambwem Probably already answered this yourself, considering the timing, but for others: there is a special tool to secure the flywheel through the transmission inspection cover. Auto: 11 8 660. Manual: 11 8 180
The qr cod3s on the venos sprockes should have been facing 90° up, not 45° to the left the way you did it right?
I'm not sure. Trying to find an answer
Yes, QR codes should be facing up. If they were facing 45 degrees at some point in the video, I adjusted them after before tightening everything down. I believe I mention that in the video.
@SimpleCarGuy no your misunderstanding me, the qr codes on the venos sprockets should have been facing up is what I said, I was NOT referring to the qr codes on the camshafts.
Turns out, it doesn't matter what orientation you put on the venos sprockets, in accordance to the camshaft or the metal trigger plates on the front of camshafts.
what matters is the qr codes on camshaft is facing up, and the holes on the metal trigger plates on front of venos sprockets are lined up in the timing tool plate
So, venos sprocket position is of zero concern, only camshaft position, crankshaft position and trigger plate on fromt of camshaft sprocket, those are the only things that need to be lined up when timing these engines.
I was able to find this answer a while after commenting and thought I'd fill you in, I was helped alot by your videos.
Does it matter what position the camshaft lobes are in for cylinder one?
Yes, when cylinder 1 is TDC the QR code should be at the top.
Thx much your videos has taught me alot
Would this procedure work for N52?
It would be very similar, yes
You just made it seem simple to fix.🤔
Everything is simple once you know what you are doing!
I hope I’m wrong but you did torque the main bolt without the pulley on it??
No no, I torqued it with the pully on it
@@SimpleCarGuy
Got it, good work man!
I’m working on the same engine, your video has helped me out. 👍
it would be must better if you are supporting the bottom as well when you doing the 270 degree torque.
It would be, but it's also very difficult to do alone. If you got ideas how, do let me know!
At 5:28, did he say 4nm or 40nm? Thanks.
Hi, it's 4 Nm of jointing torque and then 45° angle of rotation
@@SimpleCarGuy thank you
When can you do mine 😂
I was wondering if you should have used the old timing chain guide and chain. Good call not to do that.
Yeah, too bad I had to do it twice, but I was much faster the second time!
So I gotta take the whole engine out for this? I mean, I can, but damn lol. I might as well put a whole new engine in there though. They are only $1,200 for N52.
No, you can do it with the engine in the car, but if you are doing the oil pump sprocket at the same time, then you have to drop the subframe and remove the oil pan and if it’s xDrive, you’ll have to remove the driveshafts as well. I rebuild this engine so I did it on the stand and it’s easier to see and understand for the video as well.
@@SimpleCarGuy Thanks for the info! You're content is most beneficial. ✨️
Where are the timing marks on the chain and gears?
There aren’t any on chain or gears.
@@SimpleCarGuy ya i always wondered how that works, magic it seems lol
The timing is set by putting the engine (pistons, camshafts) in Top Dead Center (TDC), installing the chain and then setting the actual timing via the camshaft adjusters. There is a plate on top that has a whole which is lined up with the timing tool and then the bolt is tightened.
@@SimpleCarGuy just not used to doing timing like that, my previous american/japanese engines all had timing marks
Hello I also sent to you a mp in Instagram ? Need help with my n55
I have a 2011 BMW 535i , 97,000 miles that I bought from salvage. The engine sounds worse than yours. Not sure if I can handle the same job you've went thru.
It was a lot of work and fairly expensive, I would recommend just buying a used engine instead. I did this more as an experiment to see if I could do it.
No good
So basically you buy a bmw if you are rich or if you are a bmw mechanic with all the tools and time in the world to deal with the over-engineered clusterfuck of an engine.
How would I go about breaking loose a crank hub bolt when the engine is out of the car
BMW have a special tool to lock crankshaft (I think it's 119280 also for N55) it's possible also DIY, like I do for N52. I also make a another similar style DIY locking tool to engine back-side (then is no need to be flywheel installed) because hub bolt moment is crazy!
Can you email me? I have ? About a N55 ....
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Is it possible to list the special tools used please... ?
Please check links in the description. I have the list in there.
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