One helpful tip: Loosen the fork cap before you remove the tubes from the bike! It’s really hard to get a good vice grip on the round tube. It’s much easier to get the cap started while it’s still clamped onto the bike.
I'm a mountain bike mechanic by trade and this stuff is in my blood. Had to double check that my bike knowledge is holistically compatible with motorbike tech. Thanks for a straight forward video!!
Excellent video, was very helpful got them both done in less than an hour. Had a little trouble with the tape as it would drag the new seal back off, ended up cutting the old seal in half and tie wrapping it to the fork leg between the new seal and the tape so the old seal knocked the new seal in; I then prised the old seal out and the new seal was seated perfect. Many thanks for posting this.
The electrical tape trick at 7:00 is really smart. The manual says to use a fork seal driver, but it’s pretty annoying to spend $40+ on a specialized tool for such an infrequent maintenance task. Tape is way cheaper!
I was following the service manual and the steps specify removing the right fork spring. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the circlip out with no luck. Better to just measure out the right fork oil than using the level method; as in the video, you do not need to remove the right fork spring to replace the seals and refill oil. That clip needs ears to grab with retaining clip pliers.
I watched this vid and read your comment here before attempting this but, as this was my first-ever fork teardown, it took my getting to the exact point you mention to know what you meant. And oh my god, are you right. How, on God's green earth, is that clip supposed to come out, WHILE you push down on the fork tube to compress the shock? Do they think we're an octopus? So yeah, better to go to the other end - where the dust seal is - pop off the seal and remove THAT retaining clip, which is much easier to remove (because it has a bend in it that makes getting the blade of a regular screwdriver under it), and then go from there. To summarize, just....watch and follow this vid. For those of you like me who both watched this and then used the shop manual method, when it comes time for the right fork leg, the one with the spring, pay particular attention at 2:54, where he starts working on the right leg.
Undo the top clamps first then crack the caps...easier than trying to do this off the bike. Always clean the inside of the tubes as bushes and rubbing springs leave debris behind.
Hey thank you for this video, it helps a lot! I know this was a long time ago but I'm having difficulties bolting the bottom bolt in like in the video at 5:52. When the bolt grabs the damper assembly, after a few turn the damper tube just spins and I can't tighten it more. Is there any trick to this? on yours you were able to torque it but mine just keeps spinning. Nothing ti broken as I've triple checked everything.
it's probably too late for you, but for anybody else: I solved this issue on my f650 GS fork by applying pressure to the other end, tightening it towards the vice with a ratchet strap wrapped around the vice.
@@gregormelhorn Thank you for your reply! In my case I just had to clean the bolt very well because it was still having old loctite on it and it was grabbing on the threads. After I cleaned that up, it started to thread smoothly with no effort to the point where the damper locks by it self with the amount of pressure the bolt provides and doesn't spin.
How much oil did you put in? what kind of oil? and what seals did you purchase? This is the third time I've had to replace the fork seals on my crf250l. Ill be doing it myself since the warranty is up on it. Kind of strapped for cash so i want to make sure i do it right the first time.
I purchased the kit online, then I wth to my local Honda shop and they recommended the right oil. I can't remember how many ML It was. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help.
Use Slick Honey. How do you know axle grease ruins the seals? There are more than one type of seals. He's not working with o-rings which are susceptible to bloating from improper oil use
One helpful tip: Loosen the fork cap before you remove the tubes from the bike! It’s really hard to get a good vice grip on the round tube. It’s much easier to get the cap started while it’s still clamped onto the bike.
Good stuff! Thanks for the video I will be tackling this project soon.
two strokeee
I'm a mountain bike mechanic by trade and this stuff is in my blood. Had to double check that my bike knowledge is holistically compatible with motorbike tech. Thanks for a straight forward video!!
Excellent video, was very helpful got them both done in less than an hour. Had a little trouble with the tape as it would drag the new seal back off, ended up cutting the old seal in half and tie wrapping it to the fork leg between the new seal and the tape so the old seal knocked the new seal in; I then prised the old seal out and the new seal was seated perfect. Many thanks for posting this.
Thanks a lot man! Really appreciate it way more informative than other ones on here
Great video. Very thorough explanation of the process. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Thanks for the awesome video! It helped me out a lot and save me a lot of grief.
The electrical tape trick at 7:00 is really smart. The manual says to use a fork seal driver, but it’s pretty annoying to spend $40+ on a specialized tool for such an infrequent maintenance task. Tape is way cheaper!
Such a good video, bro!
2:20 is your Scorsese moment! The hard focus on the vise; the dreamy bokah while you pump that tube. Just wow, dude. Wow.
Scorsese moment....funny!
Very Helpfull Video thank you Man
I was following the service manual and the steps specify removing the right fork spring. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the circlip out with no luck. Better to just measure out the right fork oil than using the level method; as in the video, you do not need to remove the right fork spring to replace the seals and refill oil. That clip needs ears to grab with retaining clip pliers.
I watched this vid and read your comment here before attempting this but, as this was my first-ever fork teardown, it took my getting to the exact point you mention to know what you meant. And oh my god, are you right. How, on God's green earth, is that clip supposed to come out, WHILE you push down on the fork tube to compress the shock? Do they think we're an octopus? So yeah, better to go to the other end - where the dust seal is - pop off the seal and remove THAT retaining clip, which is much easier to remove (because it has a bend in it that makes getting the blade of a regular screwdriver under it), and then go from there. To summarize, just....watch and follow this vid. For those of you like me who both watched this and then used the shop manual method, when it comes time for the right fork leg, the one with the spring, pay particular attention at 2:54, where he starts working on the right leg.
Best part of the video.. old school NE Patriots Shirt!!
thanks from philppines
Brilliant. Thank you
same problem with my bike great show
Hunter Cleveland I hope it helps.
Undo the top clamps first then crack the caps...easier than trying to do this off the bike.
Always clean the inside of the tubes as bushes and rubbing springs leave debris behind.
Loosen fork caps BEFORE removing from triple tree...makes the job a lot easier.
Not if you have the proper vice.
Very helpful bro but you could have finished the assembly with everything that was removed like the dust cover and retaining ring just to be thorough
It would be nice if he would tell us what size fasteners there are specially the fork cap.
Awesome! How much fork oil is recommended?
Best tip was using the electrical tape to start the oil seal... thanks 😁
Hey thank you for this video, it helps a lot!
I know this was a long time ago but I'm having difficulties bolting the bottom bolt in like in the video at 5:52. When the bolt grabs the damper assembly, after a few turn the damper tube just spins and I can't tighten it more. Is there any trick to this? on yours you were able to torque it but mine just keeps spinning. Nothing ti broken as I've triple checked everything.
it's probably too late for you, but for anybody else: I solved this issue on my f650 GS fork by applying pressure to the other end, tightening it towards the vice with a ratchet strap wrapped around the vice.
@@gregormelhorn Thank you for your reply!
In my case I just had to clean the bolt very well because it was still having old loctite on it and it was grabbing on the threads. After I cleaned that up, it started to thread smoothly with no effort to the point where the damper locks by it self with the amount of pressure the bolt provides and doesn't spin.
How much ml (milliliter) or oz fluid do we need to put in Right and left Fork? CRF250L, 2013 Model.
Please reply to make it easy.
right side 658, left side 683
How to setting up rebound and comp Showa CRF 250..
Thanks Bro
I'm sorry it wasn't more thorough. Hope it helped a little!
How much oil did you put in? what kind of oil? and what seals did you purchase? This is the third time I've had to replace the fork seals on my crf250l. Ill be doing it myself since the warranty is up on it. Kind of strapped for cash so i want to make sure i do it right the first time.
All forks are a little different it's best to Google the fork tube fluid amount for your make and model... Damper tube take a lot more
I purchased the kit online, then I wth to my local Honda shop and they recommended the right oil.
I can't remember how many ML It was. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help.
If you over fill the tubes it will be super stiff....plus run chance of blowing seals again. Hope it goes well
Alright thanks man! Yeah hopefully they last this time.
A simple cleaning with a seal Mate will fix your forks no need to rebuild them that many times
Hi sir just want to ask how many oil did you put? TIA..
Jr Tugade I can't actually remember the exact ml amount ah Google the fluid chart. Ill see if I can find it and message you
Jr Tugade thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1090196-honda-crf-250r-2012-front-fork-oil-capacity/
This is for the 250r
hayden kawas no the crf250l
right side 658, left side 683
How much back pressure is on the cap for the spring side? Is it going to fly off?? Tia
No. It will not fly off.
Axle grease ruins rubber seals way to go your supposed to use silicone lube
Use Slick Honey. How do you know axle grease ruins the seals? There are more than one type of seals. He's not working with o-rings which are susceptible to bloating from improper oil use
bebifingir