Proper condensate drain piping on a Navien tankless.

I cannot stress how important it is to properly drain the condensate from a tankless heater. The vent is extremely important in the piping to allow the condensate to drain freely.
Please follow your local codes on how to neutralize the condensate, but if you need to use the Navien condensate drain kit.
Here is a list of the fittings you will need for the near tankless piping,
1/2" CPVC plastic female adaptor (not metal)
1/2" CPVC tee
1/2" CPVC St. ell X 2
1/2" CPVC ell and piping
If you have any questions you can e-mail me at'
[e-mail]
[e-mail]
I hope you enjoy this video,
Mike
PLEASE USE A LICENSED PLUMBING CONTRACTOR TRAINED IN LEVEL 3 NAVIEN TRAINING. PLEASE FOLLOW ALL STATE AND NATIONAL PLUMBING AND GAS CODES AND TO FILE A PERMIT WITH YPOU LOCAL BUILDING DEPARTMENT.

[@russkeller5747]

Great info, helped troubleshoot our 7 year old Navien.

[@forrestmarowitz]

We just had our first big freeze of the winter in the PNW and the discharge protruding outside my house froze up. (now it's insulated) Didn't realize until after I got out of the shower. Thanks to Mike I installed my indoor Rinnai tankless with the air vent in my relief line and it worked perfectly, preventing condensate from backing up into my unit. A little mess on the floor but no real damage done. Thanks Mike!

[@lrc87290]

I installed a Tankless Rennai in my gut renovation. Worked great for about a year then stopped working.. the Internet said something about vent on condensate line. I didn't have one because i believe the manual didn't say to install one. Put one in working for 3 years now. Great video thanks

[@sermore77]

Great informative videos explain NAVIEN always needed some thing like this.

[@codycolumbia5054]

Hey Mike, great video. I appreciate the detailed explanation with why you do it this way.
Is this also necessary on their combi boiler units? I've noticed they never have that bit of detail in their installation manuals.
Also, have you ever run into issues with how brittle CPVC is?
I've seen several plumbers say they won't install CPVC unless the customer signs a waiver. The waiver basically saying anything CPVC is not warrantied and callbacks/repairs on CPVC are full price because it's brittle and tends to fall apart. I've seen most recommend Sch 40 PVC or if the customer is really paranoid, sizing up and using Sch 80 PVC. Any thoughts on that?

[@therealSIRBOOM]

How do you convert the condensate to CPVC when the tankless has a barbed outlet for flex pipe?

[@user-sl2rp1vy3l]

Hi, I am a plumber and I work in California, sometimes when I come to a problem with a water heater, I see that from the bottom of the heat exchanger there are drops similar to condensation and which sometimes drip and destroy other parts, I have a question, what can cause them?

[@dougyoung6591]

Mine doesn't have that. It was installed professionally and now has been error ing out after 8 months. I see rust inside the unit and they have been out many times to fix but it's still has a ignition error. Do you think that is my problem?

[@miltongenovez4315]

Can this drain be ran to a near by sump pump, Since its plastic and draining outside?

[@tonymc3817]

Do ya need to glue the fittings all together or van ya just press them in tightly for future removal and reuse, if possible

[@OkayAhhgain]

Was wondering the same thing lol

[@codycolumbia5054]

Dry-fitting PVC is often so tight that it's difficult to pull apart and you're talking a low-pressure drain line so it's not going to be prone to leaking but it really depends on how much condensate you're producing, how you're draining/routing, and who you're doing it for. That being said, I see no reason not to glue it and you absolutely should especially if you're running anything through/near a wall or anything else that could be damaged by a leak.
If you're asking because you're unsure about your routing, I wouldn't see an issue with dry-fitting it all and seeing how it works out for a day or so before committing to gluing but I'd take precautions to ensure that if it does leak, it's not going to damage anything.
If you're asking because you want to make it serviceable, I'd use unions before/after your neutralizer and glue the rest.
Just my two cents but as a disclaimer I'm only certified for mobile AC and refrigeration. By no means am I a plumbing/HVAC professional.

[@alizidan2099]

I have a problem with my tankless, Renee code 38

[@Phil-D83]

Google it

[@scotthalpern6237]

So slow to make the point that it’s painful

[@brock8145]

Alot of blah blah blah