The best way to install a drain trap!
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- čas přidán 29. 11. 2021
- Drain lines are a pretty big deal. If you mess them up you can either flood a house or make it stink to no end. That being said there is no excuse to hook them up improperly. Let me explain how to install the drain line correctly on a negative flow system. This trap is not essential on a gas system.
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Hey everyone! Does this video make sense and help you out? Let me know down below!
Great video! ? I keep hearing mixed things regarding a vent, after the p-trap. Some people say you need it some say you don't. I'm about redo mine because they forgot to install a clean out and wanted to know if i should do a clean out AND vent.
@jodeci8883 yea always add a cleanout. I like putting the drain together and not having to cut it back apart. Add a shut off or union. I posted a video on drain cleaning which talks about cleanouts
@@WorldofHVAC Thank you for the quick response. So only a clean out, not a clean out AND a vent, right?
@jodeci8883 drains need vents. If you want to put a union in then put it after the trap
@@WorldofHVAC OK. Thanks. Going to be adding a union AND vent when I redo the drain. Thanks again.
great tips! Thank you for getting directly to the point and not filling air space with rambling and long intro's!
Thanks! I hate videos with fluff so I made sure not to include any in mine
Very Helpful. Due to negative air pressure, my system was not draining condensate until the blower motor turned off. I now know that it was installed incorrectly and the top of the first tee was not capped. Thanks
Glad I could help!
This really helped me understand p traps. Plus your design is really practical
Thank you! I try to put things together that allows for future service. I hate having to cut into a drain
Great tip: the tee to loose cap for future clogs!!! Thanks brother!!
Nice job explaining how to install a drain trap. Thank you
You're welcome!
love the blue glue no primer, first time we hired a plumber to hour hvac company dude asked why i wasn't priming i told him you don't have to use primer with the blue glue, he loves the blue glue now, good work sir i love it
Thanks! All glue has its place. I havent had blue glue fail, its awesome stuff
@@WorldofHVAC does the blue glue not dry up as fast as the reg pvc cement does in the can when its been opended?
Awesome video. Very detailed and informative. Thank you.
Thank you for the video! I learned a lot!
Great idea to put the ball valve 👍👍👍👍
ugh, thank you my new system started leaking from a little access point because of the buildup of water from negative pressure I realized there's no P-trap on my system you have saved me my whole feeling has collapsed and I've had two people come out to look at it and they have no idea why it's still dripping I think you just saved me I'm a plumber so I understand the concept
ceiling collapsed(
Glad I was able to help!
great video recently my A/C unit in my attic overflowed the pan. The A/C techs didn't install a P trap or wire the water overflow shut off safety switches correctly. spilling water thru the ceiling into my garage what a mess.I checked this video out installed the P trap with 2 unions success thanks for the info
Awesome! Glad to hear I could help!
Just Subscribed for well Explained 👍
Thank you!
Great video
Thanks buddy!
CODE STATES THAT P TRAP ON NEGATIVE PRESSURE SIDE MUST BE 1 INCH HIGHER THAN RETURN STATIC PRESSURE, SO ANYONE WHO USES A PREMADE TRAP IS DOING IT WRONG. PERIOD. Example - if your return static is -.03 inches in WC. You must have a 4 inch drop off tee from main drain port then with a 2 inch rise to the vent tee. Another example if you have -.1 inches of static on return you must have a 2 inch drop from tee that connects to main port with a 1 inch rise to vent tee. Also anything in 3.5 ton or higher should be 1" drain pipe not 3/4
Depends how old the ac is. Mine is 20 plus and it has a 3/4 in thread and is on the roof
@@jorgenorman8715 you might have a 3/4 thread put you put to 1 inch pipe
@@furiousfill4593 plus barely anyone sells 1 in premade p traps and I think you meant for static pressure the p trap has to be longer / deeper.
.03 is smaller than .1 how do you have a bigger drop on something less with static
Cool video
Never swab glue inside a fitting, always swab glue around the pipe. When you glue the inside of a fitting, you're pushing all the glue back inside the drain when pushing the pipe in the fitting.
This is good comment 👍
Thanks brother
Great, right to the point video. I installed an ez trap on my 80% Rheem furnace. Gas Furnace sits upright with A coil on top . Question - does the ez trap ( p trap) need water in it in the winter when a/c not used? If it does, to prevent freezing since my furnace is in the attic , should I use RV antifreeze in the p trap or is just insulation around the p trap enough. Live in cold New Jersey. Much appreciated!
Is that a downflow furnace? In my area that system you described would be a positive flow and doesnt require a trap at the system.
@@WorldofHVAC No, it's an upward flow, so negative pressure. The fan is at bottom and A coil on top. Without P trap, condensing water won't flow out but sucked in. So I'm concerned with p trap freezing if water needed in winter. The condensing tube drains to the outside not into any fixture or sewer. Much appreciated if RV antifreeze needed or if water needed at all in winter when a/c not used and insulation enough.
@@AAtta-3286you're a bit confused on the subject. If your fan is blowing through your coil (how you described your furnace) you have positive pressure drain. Therefore no need for a trap. On the other hand. If your fan is pulling air through your coil that will cause a negative pressure in your drain and you will need a trap. Think about it.
Ever notice those float switches getting gummed up on the primary? I kinda like the idea of a float switch on the secondary only so I get full flow on primary and the float switch never sees water if the system is draining correctly...
Does the pipe dries in winter when the AC isn't working? letting the smell goes into the system?
Nice job. Question In some regions, the ac is not used for several months over the winter, so will the trap go dry and the sewer gas return? Does the trap have to be larger?
Usually thats not the only trap on the system. Plumbers have an 1 1/2 trap going into their stack.
I havent seen the water get sucked into the unit or dry up before. Wouldn't hurt to check it periodically
Why is there a stem after the p-trap?
Thats a vent between the air handler trap and the plumbing trap
@@WorldofHVACshould that vent be left open? It looks like its not capped
Yes it should be left open. If not you will end up with vapor lock
What’s vapor lock?
Can I use the Nu-Calgon 4296-60 Pan-Treat Scum 200 Tablets right in the trap? I just didn’t want to have to take the coil access panel off to add tablets every time.
I wouldnt suggest putting them in the trap. They have a ptrap that is designed for pan tablets im trying to get my hands on. Its called the combat trap.
@@WorldofHVAC Thanks👍👍
Can I cut the tip of the p trap pipe by half an inch to help create a downward drain flow ?
I don't understand the question
Question would you do this on all system like split system, package unit , and heat pumps
Package unit definitely. Split system would be negative flow. And heat pumps follow the same rule as positive and negative airflow applications. Heat pumps change the refrigerant flow not the air flow.
Would this install be the same for a POSITIVE pressure system? TYIA
No you can install just a T with and open vent pipe and that will be fine for a positive pressure system
what happens if you cap the wrong end by accident?
Vapor lock. Air pressure wont let the water drain
no need the cap on the other one
So confused about the P trap. We bought our 2-story condo with an AC in a closet at the top of the stairs. A white PVC pipe comes out of it that angles down and out of sight. That PVC pipe has one of those shut off floats cut into it, but no P trap. Another pipe comes out which is covered in a black pool noodle cover, heads along a parallel path with the PVC pipe but at a height above it. Again, no P traps. Was this old school, or incompetent work? The AC works with no leaks. Do all ACs need this P trap? The shut off float I described is also the only way to pour in vinegar or bleach to clean the drain pipe. Does that matter?
From my experience, second floor vertical systems have a plumbing trap extremely close to the unit. If the plumbing trap is within a certain distance an additional trap is not needed at the unit.
Also depends on the system. A positive pressure system like a gas furnace does not need a trap at the system.
The black pipe is the suction line connecting the evaporator to the condenser. That pipe gets cold and will sweat when its running. Insulating that pipe will help prevent water damage.
Dont pour bleach down the drain. The funes are corrosive. Use vinegar when maintaining your drain.
Can you explain negative and positive airflow and how to tell?
Depends on the position of the blower in relation to the evaporator coil. Furnace forces air across the coil. Thats a positive flow. Air handlers draw air across the coil. Thats negative flow.
@@WorldofHVAC thanks makes perfect since
No problem!
so obviously youre venting the line into an existing sewer drain. My system upstairs is in the attic and the condensate line exit the house thru the eaves & into the gutter. Is a P-Trap still rcommended? I want to redo my connections & at least put in a cleanout. Great video
My condensate drains have to go to the sewer first. Yours might not have to but it might just be an install without permit. Hard to tell from that description
@@WorldofHVAC wow, thanks for the quick response! Im in NJ. Most of the CZcams vids Ive seen are setup just like mine with the 3/4" or 1" pvc running out of the house and dripping on the ground
I've seen/worked on a lot of AC systems both horizontal and vertical, and none had the coil on the negative pressure side. So no ptrap needed. This is in Texas. Maybe it's different in other parts of the country.
Every air handler is negative flow. If the blower is drawing air across the coil its negative flow. If the blower is pushing air across the coil it is positive flow
Right. And in every system I've seen the blower is pushing air across the coil. @@WorldofHVAC
Id like to see a positive flow air handler thats not the American Standard TAM series. Send it to my instagram
Finally figured out that you were talking about heat pump systems, in which the coil should indeed be on the negative side of the blower. In my area, almost everybody heats with natgas because it's cheaper, so the AC/furnace systems put the coil on the positive airflow side after the heat exchanger.
Excellent video by the way. We're planning on building in an area with no natural gas available, so we'll have heat pumps (and p-traps!)@@WorldofHVAC
the insulation really obstructs the view of the pipes and their connection. Why can you not put the pipe insulation on after all the connections done ?
I like to keep the insulation as one solid piece. Attics in my area are 130+. The tape tends to fall apart, which results in sweating and that turns into water on the ceiling.
Good job.
My ptrap keeps holding back water
Holding back water from flowing? Is it vented correctly?
Can’t put condensate into a sewer vent I know it’s done all the time it should go outside.
Thats literally code
Right you don’t say anything about water that sits in ptrap when temperature go below…. You know what happened
Can't speak about what I don't know. It doesn't freeze in my area